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Weird Car’s weird cars! ‘ROCK DOWN TO ELECTRA AVENUE’ ‘carb advice needed'


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Posted
21 minutes ago, Weird Car said:

a guy in locksheath with 9 145 wagons

That's where my stepson lives!  (No, it isn't him...)

Posted

That Volvo is looking fantastic.  I know the BW35 is a horrible gearbox but with that, the e-PAS and the mahoosive steering wheel I imagine it's completely effortless to drive.

Posted
15 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

That Volvo is looking fantastic.  I know the BW35 is a horrible gearbox but with that, the e-PAS and the mahoosive steering wheel I imagine it's completely effortless to drive.

The abundance of any road feel is definitely a feature 😆

Posted
9 hours ago, Weird Car said:

Mines had a quite a life in the last few years, was in London for a bit then way up north then Southampton and now Portsmouth so quite unlikely but I do know a guy in locksheath with 9 145 wagons including 2 express high tops, so chances are he might know  

 

Also just round the corner from me is this amazon that's been there years and has attracted enough attention that it now has a not for sale sign in the window 

Screenshot_20251119_100819_Maps.jpg

I had to do that when I had the old Merc camper - I STILL kept getting people knocking on the door trying to buy it!

Posted
18 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

I had to do that when I had the old Merc camper - I STILL kept getting people knocking on the door trying to buy it!

That's crazy, the irony being whenever I've actually seen your merc crop up for sale it's struggled to sell 

Posted
14 hours ago, Weird Car said:

That's crazy, the irony being whenever I've actually seen your merc crop up for sale it's struggled to sell 

reverse psycology... tell them they cant buy it and they want it.... 

oh my audi isnt for sale btw.... 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Top gear theme song plays*

 

*In Jeremy Clarkson's voice*

 

"TONIGHT,

Svenja the Volvo breaks down

Josie the Buick gets her first tank of fuel

And Felix the Minibus is filled with shit"

 

20251130_103622.jpg.c4554f9a553b88b9d16fdd9e7c2d9740.jpg

 

20251130_122746.jpg.de142eacff95c6fb58c390b25efe821d.jpg

 

20251130_124615.jpg.65b4b340a16f95cd05df13f16bd0d3b5.jpg

 

i think the carbs are out of balance on the Volvo as its idling really lumpy, timing is good, sparky bits are good

 

Buick has decided that it wants to piss fuel out of the carb and go full throttle whenever you select reverse

 

So yeah all in all things are not going great 😕

  • Weird Car changed the title to Weird Car’s weird cars! ‘ROCK DOWN TO ELECTRA AVENUE’ ‘cars behaving badly''
Posted

So question for all you vintage yank owners, I'm seriously considering splashing out the grand or so and buying the Holley sniper fuel injection kit for the Buick, I've heard mixed things about it after asking on the buick page on FB yesterday, I'd be tempted to have my original carb rebuilt but again a lot of people are saying they're a pain to get set up properly and to just ditch it, anyone had experience with the Holley injection kit? Or if not know of a decent modern replacement carb thats a bolt on replacement? Honestly I just want a turn key car 

 

 

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  • Weird Car changed the title to Weird Car’s weird cars! ‘ROCK DOWN TO ELECTRA AVENUE’ ‘carb advice needed'
Posted
53 minutes ago, Weird Car said:

So question for all you vintage yank owners, I'm seriously considering splashing out the grand or so and buying the Holley sniper fuel injection kit for the Buick, I've heard mixed things about it after asking on the buick page on FB yesterday, I'd be tempted to have my original carb rebuilt but again a lot of people are saying they're a pain to get set up properly and to just ditch it, anyone had experience with the Holley injection kit? Or if not know of a decent modern replacement carb thats a bolt on replacement? Honestly I just want a turn key car 

 

 

Screenshot_20251201_083640_Gallery.jpg

Personally,

I wouldn’t bother going that far. That’s a lot of money to spend! 
On my Mercury I’ve got an Edelbrock replacement carb. The original Ford carb was, apparently, a ball of dirt and crud and left the chat before the car even came to the UK! As long as you get a replacement carb suited to your engine you should be good. Obviously don’t try to go all ‘extra horses son!’ And get a gigantic carb as it won’t work right with your engine. 
Mine has just the carb, no manifold etc etc as it all works perfectly using the original bits down stream of the carb.

The only problems I’ve had aren’t related to the carb but the carb suffered as a result - my fuel tank was absolutely rotten and full of sludge and sediment which, even with filters, was just blocking the carb solid within a few miles after cleaning. If you have problems like this no amount of new carbs or injection kits will help. Everything else needs to be sound first really. The annoying thing is, my tank looked fine outside. All the mess was inside.

A full carb rebuild should undoubtedly see improvements though if you really want to try the cheapest option first? It’s been on the engine 50+ years and working fine so for the cost of a carb rebuild kit maybe that’s worth a try? They always let crap in the float bowls even with filters fitted and the jets/passages get crud in them. A rebuild kit and can of carb cleaner might be all you really need?

Other things to consider - is your ignition system as good as it can be? Not just the plugs and leads, but the distributor, points, condenser etc etc.         

Also have you got any spacer/heat sink between your carb and manifold as not having one can cause heat build up in the carb leading to fuel evaporation. Especially with modern fuel.

Id be looking at other things first before resorting to expensive solutions that might not even cure the problem!

Posted
29 minutes ago, danthecapriman said:

my fuel tank was absolutely rotten and full of sludge and sediment which, even with filters, was just blocking the carb solid within a few miles after cleaning. If you have problems like this no amount of new carbs or injection kits will help. Everything else needs to be sound first really. The annoying thing is, my tank looked fine outside. All the mess was inside.

Luckily its recently had a brand new stainless tank, new hoses and filters 

 

31 minutes ago, danthecapriman said:

A full carb rebuild should undoubtedly see improvements though if you really want to try the cheapest option first?

To be honest that will most likely be my first port of call, though the amount of people who've said even after a rebuild the originals are a pain to get tuned makes me just want to fuck it off for something modern, I may buy a modern replacement anyway and run it whist I'm rebuilding the original then have the original as a spare, still not entirely sure 

  • Like 2
Posted

Given the ubiquity of Holly/Edelbrock carbs in the US I'd personally just be looking for the appropriate one of those and the necessary adaptor plate for your manifold if the factory carb has a reputation for being poor.

So long as you do a bit of research to make sure it's jetted right that should sort you out and be trouble free as long as the car's in regular use.  Especially if you've got a nice new fuel tank rather than one shedding rust continuously.

  • Agree 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Weird Car said:

Luckily its recently had a brand new stainless tank, new hoses and filters 

 

To be honest that will most likely be my first port of call, though the amount of people who've said even after a rebuild the originals are a pain to get tuned makes me just want to fuck it off for something modern, I may buy a modern replacement anyway and run it whist I'm rebuilding the original then have the original as a spare, still not entirely sure 

If the original carb is a known turd, then I’d recommend an Edelbrock or Holley etc etc replacement. They’re generally very good carbs, and have been developed and refined over the decades since the OE carbs were made. They also tend to come jetted ready for your application and in the kits you get all the brackets and gaskets you’ll likely need. Occasionally you might have to adapt something but for the most part they are very good.

I can’t remember which model mine is, I think it’s a 1406 carb but they aren’t horribly expensive from memory. Mines got the electric choke on it too which seems to have worked fine.

One thing you could do if you wanted is to upgrade from a 2 barrel carb (if that’s what you have now??) and use a replacement 4 barrel carb. Most engines, particularly V8’s, had a 2 barrel as standard with a factory upgrade being a 4 barrel at extra cost. So if you are replacing the carb, it’s a good opportunity to fit a 4 and have done with it. 

If I was in your shoes I’d be looking at an Edelbrock/Holley kit. If everything else on the car is good then you should just have to fit the kit and after a bit of adjusting the idle/mix you’ll be good to go.

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Zelandeth said:

Given the ubiquity of Holly/Edelbrock carbs in the US I'd personally just be looking for the appropriate one of those and the necessary adaptor plate for your manifold if the factory carb has a reputation for being poor.

So long as you do a bit of research to make sure it's jetted right that should sort you out and be trouble free as long as the car's in regular use.  Especially if you've got a nice new fuel tank rather than one shedding rust continuously.

 

19 minutes ago, danthecapriman said:

If the original carb is a known turd, then I’d recommend an Edelbrock or Holley etc etc replacement. They’re generally very good carbs, and have been developed and refined over the decades since the OE carbs were made. They also tend to come jetted ready for your application and in the kits you get all the brackets and gaskets you’ll likely need. Occasionally you might have to adapt something but for the most part they are very good.

I can’t remember which model mine is, I think it’s a 1406 carb but they aren’t horribly expensive from memory. Mines got the electric choke on it too which seems to have worked fine.

One thing you could do if you wanted is to upgrade from a 2 barrel carb (if that’s what you have now??) and use a replacement 4 barrel carb. Most engines, particularly V8’s, had a 2 barrel as standard with a factory upgrade being a 4 barrel at extra cost. So if you are replacing the carb, it’s a good opportunity to fit a 4 and have done with it. 

If I was in your shoes I’d be looking at an Edelbrock/Holley kit. If everything else on the car is good then you should just have to fit the kit and after a bit of adjusting the idle/mix you’ll be good to go.

It's looking like an Edelbrock/ Holley is the way forward, thanks guys 

 

Now to do some digging and see which one will work 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Weird Car said:

 

It's looking like an Edelbrock/ Holley is the way forward, thanks guys 

 

Now to do some digging and see which one will work 

Sometimes you can find a suitable kit listed by manufacturer and engine. There is a UK supplier of Edelbrock too, I think they have something to do with Weber carbs.

Do be wary of the Chinese knock off versions too! There’s a few about but I don’t think I’d trust them as far as I could throw them!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

thunderhead289 has a couple carb rebuild videos on that sheep sounding video site is it ewe pipe or something... theres also that vice grip guy hes always messing with them... and sam from lookmumnoengine....   isacc it'llbefine 

sometimes a clean out is all they needs!

ive never really messed with them myself apart from the lawn mower, but after watching these lot id have a go! good luck! 

Posted

My 59 Chrysler has a 4-barrel Carter carb. 
Soon after I got it (2002, sunny California) it started playing up - pissing fuel out and also flooding the engine. 
I had imported it into Ca and the rubber tips of the float chamber needle valves had reacted to the California fuel (ethanol…) and had gone hard. Result - fuel pissing into the inlet manifold and also everywhere else.

This happened at work - couldn’t get the car out of the car park without it flooding. Short term solution was to crank up the idle speed so that the engine would always run fast enough to consume the fuel faster than it was pouring in. I picked a relatively quiet time (midday) to drive the 30 miles home. I chose the freeway route - 101 and then link across to 680. There’s a gas station on the link road between the 2 freeways. I stopped there to fill up, given the unknown rate at which this 6.8 litre was guzzling fuel. Timing my exit from the gas station to match a gap in the traffic without stalling meant I left two black lines on their forecourt. That was a fun drive. 

When I got home I got a rebuild kit and it’s been fine ever since. Not sure if that helps- but a rebuild kit is far cheaper and less hassle than swapping to a new different carb let alone going fuel injection. Unless you’re going to run it at Santa Pod.

  • Like 2
Posted
35 minutes ago, Three Speed said:

fuel pissing into the inlet manifold and also everywhere else.

This happened at work - couldn’t get the car out of the car park without it flooding. Short term solution was to crank up the idle speed so that the engine would always run fast enough to consume the fuel faster than it was pouring in.

This is exactly what happened to me and exactly my temporary solution to fixing it 

 

37 minutes ago, Three Speed said:

When I got home I got a rebuild kit and it’s been fine ever since. Not sure if that helps- but a rebuild kit is far cheaper and less hassle than swapping to a new different carb let alone going fuel injection. Unless you’re going to run it at Santa Pod.

Yeah the only worry I have as previously mentioned the original carbs were never known to be very good, even after a rebuild they're apparently a pain to get set up properly, I don't know if just chucking a brand new Edelbrock or Holley at it will be better in the long run  

Posted

Two points which cancel each other out: Holley carbs are famous for being total shit. I don't think Americans really know any better because everything over there was built to such low tolerances anyway, but even Yank guys will occasionally grumble about them and they sound like a complete bastard to keep on top of. Think of them like a Transatlantic Pierburg.

On the other hand, I'm pretty sure our Corvair has a pair of Holleys on (one feeding each bank of cylinders). They were new parts when it was recomissioned after 50 years off the road and have only done a few thousand miles, but I have never had a moment's trouble with them and they appear to be entirely fit for purpose. So, take from that what you will.

Purely theortically, are is there not quite a wide variety of American carbs suitable for cars of similar displacement/horsepower which could be made to fit without too much hassle?

Posted

Holleys are okay but can be awkward and play up in weird ways. They're also messy to set up because you gotta take the float bowls off to swap jets. They are simple enough but one bad backfire and the power valve diaphragm will rupture and you can say byebye to your mixture.

Edelbrock and the clones are a good turn key source of decent enough carbs that'll tolerate E10, have superb support, are the cheapest option for bolt on and go (though to recommend buying a set of the smaller half of the sizes of jets is recommended because the jets they come with will run but are usually too rich to avoid "I bolted this carb on and my pistons melted" kind of litigation). 

They're easy to service, fairly easy to set up and generally for a car that'll get the occasional bumble about probably your best option if you want turn key (or as close as an old Buick will be).

Ok the ignition front, if the distributor is ok fit a Pertronix kit. If it's trash get a GM HEI style aftermarket distributor. 

Check everywhere for vacuum leaks (smoke machine is useful), fix those and it'll run like you hope it would. They aren't complex, are built to drive around somewhere near idle all day long and generally be reliable if given grease and oil changes.

Re: Full throttle in reverse- with the engine off have an assistant shift gears. Check the linkages aren't fouling. They shouldn't; my guess though is it's idling up because the mixture is fat from the carb being out of whack, and any air introduced will cause it to idle up noticably. Check the vacuum pipe to the gearbox, particularly if it shifts gear at high speed only. The modulator diaphragms can rupture and make everything all kinds of wrong, particularly noticable at idle.

Phil

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