1963 Mercedes Benz 190DC Fintail. Bad fuel tank and leaks.

[Dyslexic Viking]

I have not thought of mounting plates for seat belts, this is also a challenge. This whole thing seems like it could get very complicated. So have to give it a thought if it's worth all the trouble.

[Mally]

Lap belts would be easy, and better than nothing. Loose plate under the  floor/tunnel. would suffice.

If you can get a shoulder height fastening  in the B pillar it's worth it for peace of mind.

[mat_the_cat]

On 9/22/2022 at 12:30 PM, hairnet said:

kim your english is better than ours

You spelled 'mine' wrong 😛

I can only echo the comments of thanks for taking the time to share your progress with us - it's genuinely interesting to read.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Got the seats back in it today and parked it in the garage again. It started today also instantly so that's great.

But it still leaks oil from where that hole was in the timing cover so a bolt with a copper washer didn't fix it. I also noticed that under this and closer to the water pump there is also such a hole but it is not leaking oil, it is marked in the picture. This is just weird.

[Mally]

Wrap the thread on the bolt with PTFE tape, keeping the tape away from the very end of the thread,

Also try a fibre washer instead of copper.

[Popsicle]

That looks lovely with the seats back in, clutching at straws a bit but could the two holes be part of a breather system thats long been removed?

Just to echo what others have said regarding this thread and the work you are putting in, its a great read and with English not being your first language you are still able to convey feelings and thought processes better than I can.

[Dyslexic Viking]

1 hour ago, Mally said:

Wrap the thread on the bolt with PTFE tape, keeping the tape away from the very end of the thread,

Also try a fibre washer instead of copper.

Will try it but may be difficult since the bolt only has about 5 mm of thread but will try.

[Dyslexic Viking]

1 hour ago, Popsicle said:

That looks lovely with the seats back in, clutching at straws a bit but could the two holes be part of a breather system thats long been removed?

Just to echo what others have said regarding this thread and the work you are putting in, its a great read and with English not being your first language you are still able to convey feelings and thought processes better than I can.

Thank you. And it is possible, but I don't understand why there would be a breathing system there? And if it had been, surely the other one would also have leaked oil? But anything is possible I guess. 

But by the way, how is the arm? Have you gotten better?

[Popsicle]

9 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Thank you. And it is possible, but I don't understand why there would be a breathing system there? And if it had been, surely the other one would also have leaked oil? But anything is possible I guess. 

But by the way, how is the arm? Have you gotten better?

Yea I thought that about the breather after I'd posted, just a wild guess really.

My arm is slowly getting better thanks, back at the hospital mid October for the next appointment. I reckon you might have the Merc finished before I'm allowed back on the road with the progress you're making 😄.

[Dyslexic Viking]

5 minutes ago, Popsicle said:

My arm is slowly getting better thanks, back at the hospital mid October for the next appointment. I reckon you might have the Merc finished before I'm allowed back on the road with the progress you're making 😄.

That's great news.

And don't know about that as things will start to slow down with the Mercedes now.

[Mally]

30 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Thank you. And it is possible, but I don't understand why there would be a breathing system there? And if it had been, surely the other one would also have leaked oil? But anything is possible I guess. 

But by the way, how is the arm? Have you gotten better?

I though maybe a bracket or something had been attached by both holes.

One hole blank, the other breaking into an oil way.

[Popsicle]

4 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

That's great news.

And don't know about that as things will start to slow down with the Mercedes now.

What have you got left that you'd like to do before using it regularly? I know you mentioned some bits of welding and are looking into seat belt types. I appreciate there are always things that would be nice to do, from a selfish point of view, as I enjoy the thread, the more the merrier and its good to see the progress being made, but you must be really keen to have a nice long drive round in it.

 

[Dyslexic Viking]

3 minutes ago, Mally said:

I though maybe a bracket or something had been attached by both holes.

One hole blank, the other breaking into an oil way.

This is also possible, but so far I have not come across any pictures of these engines with something like that. So I don't know maybe it's possible?

[Dyslexic Viking]

4 minutes ago, Popsicle said:

What have you got left that you'd like to do before using it regularly? I know you mentioned some bits of welding and are looking into seat belt types. I appreciate there are always things that would be nice to do, from a selfish point of view, as I enjoy the thread, the more the merrier and its good to see the progress being made, but you must be really keen to have a nice long drive round in it.

 

What I have left that needs to be done before I can drive it is to get the turn signals working and a relay is on its way from the US that should fix this, the next thing is to stop the diesel leakage on injector 2 and preferably stop the oil leakage and put on a pre-filter before the lift pump. After this I can drive it again.

But what needs to be done in order for me to use it a lot is to get those holes in the floor welded and then get it soundproofed again, followed by new carpets and possibly seat belts. And mechanically, it needs more maintenance and various repairs.

The first is realistic to get done now if I don't run into any problems. The rest will be done over the winter and spring so I can use it a lot for next year. But something like the welding of the floor I would like to have done now, but I don't know if I can afford it. I want to see how much it might cost and if we can do it before the car have to be parked for the winter.

[Popsicle]

19 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

What I have left that needs to be done before I can drive it is to get the turn signals working and a relay is on its way from the US that should fix this, the next thing is to stop the diesel leakage on injector 2 and preferably stop the oil leakage and put on a pre-filter before the lift pump. After this I can drive it again.

But what needs to be done in order for me to use it a lot is to get those holes in the floor welded and then get it soundproofed again, followed by new carpets and possibly seat belts. And mechanically, it needs more maintenance and various repairs.

The first is realistic to get done now if I don't run into any problems. The rest will be done over the winter and spring so I can use it a lot for next year. But something like the welding of the floor I would like to have done now, but I don't know if I can afford it. I want to see how much it might cost and if we can do it before the car have to be parked for the winter.

I know thats quite a few things but its less than I thought would need doing, fingers crossed it goes well for you and I look forward to the updates!

 

[Dyslexic Viking]

Tried to do a bit with this today starting with the only thing that went well. These cars were supposed to have a pre filter before the lift pump but it has been removed on this one but I want to have one to protect the new lift pump so after some searching I came across a universal coarse filter which will work perfectly for what I want. This must not be confused with the fine filter for carburettors, this is more intended for larger things such as rust flakes etc. And the main diesel filter takes care of the finer particles.

So after this I tried to get the leaking injector to stop leaking. There is no gasket where this leaks is, it's just the 2 surfaces pressed together that should keep it tight, not sure what it's called in English. And this is the top coupling that holds the pipe on so took it off and found nothing wrong then screwed it back on and was careful that everything came together straight and not crooked, it went fine to screw it together too and I tightened it as much as I dared. But after I started the engine it started leaking again. I don't understand why or how this can leak and I can't drive the car until this is fixed. I have marked where it is leaking with an arrow in the picture below.

So I possibly need advice on this now if anyone has it. And the mysterious hole on the engine that oil was leaking out of and I put a bolt in, this bolt is now impossible to get out, I can screw it both ways but nothing happens and there is still some oil leaking here so I may have made this even worse now that the bolt cannot be removed. So this along with the injector is very frustrating and bothers me a lot now.

[Mr Pastry]

24 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

So after this I tried to get the leaking injector to stop leaking. There is no gasket where this leaks is, it's just the 2 surfaces pressed together that should keep it tight, not sure what it's called in English. And this is the top coupling that holds the pipe on so took it off and found nothing wrong then screwed it back on and was careful that everything came together straight and not crooked, it went fine to screw it together too and I tightened it as much as I dared. But after I started the engine it started leaking again. I don't understand why or how this can leak and I can't drive the car until this is fixed. I have marked where it is leaking with an arrow in the picture below.

Try a copper washer in the joint?  If it has been overtightened in the past, the male threaded part of the coupling may have been stretched and is bottoming in the injector.  Just a thought.

[Dyslexic Viking]

3 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Try a copper washer in the joint?  If it has been overtightened in the past, the male threaded part of the coupling may have been stretched and is bottoming in the injector.  Just a thought.

Thanks, but I'm not sure if it's possible with how the connections are. But I'll think about it if it's possible.

[DSdriver]

My long experience with small marine diesel engines has taught me that diesel fuel is excellent for using as penetrating fluid for rusting nuts, copper washers should be annealed (heated to cherry red glow then plunged into water) each time they are re-used because this softens the copper.

[Saabnut]

On the leaking oil bolt, as the thread is obviously damaged (hence it will not tighten) the problem is it is just spinning. You will need to apply some pressure outwards whilst rotating the bolt anti clockwise. If there is a gap at all between block and bolt head, a very thin screwdriver can be used whilst turning the bolt with a socket. If there is no gap, a small pair of vice grips on the bolt head at 90 degrees to the block, then turn and pull at the same time. This may take several attempts as the vice grips will keep slipping off.

For the diesel leak, as said, a copper washer should work.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Thanks both. I'll try this on that bolt and on the diesel leak I'll see if I can get a copper washer in.

[Nullzwei]

With the price of diesel probably best to just replace the leaking injector pipe. Failing a local diesel specialist being able to help you they seem to be available online for a fair price.

https://www.drinkwaard.com/en/marinediesel-parts/injectionpipe-om621/

[Dyslexic Viking]

39 minutes ago, Nullzwei said:

With the price of diesel probably best to just replace the leaking injector pipe. Failing a local diesel specialist being able to help you they seem to be available online for a fair price.

https://www.drinkwaard.com/en/marinediesel-parts/injectionpipe-om621/

Thanks, if it becomes necessary I will check if the ones from marine engines are the same.

And what I like least about that leak is that diesel leaking on a hot engine is not so ideal.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Then it looks like I can get most of the day tomorrow to work on this, but I have a question. You have recommended using a copper washer on the coupling that leaks diesel, but where? It leaks in the joints and threds where the arrow is in the picture below and there is several millimeters of clearance to the bottom there, so you can't have a washer there, so did you think it should be inside? So together with and around the injector pipe?

[Mr Pastry]

18 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Then it looks like I can get most of the day tomorrow to work on this, but I have a question. You have recommended using a copper washer on the coupling that leaks diesel, but where? It leaks in the joints and threds where the arrow is in the picture below and there is several millimeters of clearance to the bottom there, so you can't have a washer there, so did you think it should be inside? So together with and around the injector pipe?

I thought it was leaking from the bottom section against the brass fitting - hence copper washer suggestion but if it is leaking from the top union then that isn't appropriate - sorry if that was confusing.  I think next I would undo the top union nut, and have a look at the fitting inside.  Make sure it is all clean and not damaged, try and refit it and tighten it carefully.  Not sure what type of fitting that is. 

[Dyslexic Viking]

13 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

I thought it was leaking from the bottom section against the brass fitting - hence copper washer suggestion but if it is leaking from the top union then that isn't appropriate - sorry if that was confusing.  I think next I would undo the top union nut, and have a look at the fitting inside.  Make sure it is all clean and not damaged, try and refit it and tighten it carefully.  Not sure what type of fitting that is. 

Thanks. I will try this but I don't want to loosen the pipe on the diesel pump because then I will probably have a leak there too. So will try my best.

And one more question, is thread seal tape a no? Because I have one that can withstand chemicals and 120 degrees. It feels like a bodge but what else can one do if this won't stop leaking.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Some here have found new diesel pipes for this engine in marine use, not sure if they are exactly the same. But I have found a kit with all the diesel pipes complete, if I can't get the leakage to stop then I'll have to try this if it is the same.

But I have found a picture online of this coupling that is leaking without the pipes In case anyone is interested.

[mat_the_cat]

Thread tape is only of any point if it relies on the threads to seal, which I doubt. I would expect the pipes to be flared and seal on a conical mating surface. If this is damaged, or dirty this will prevent full contact and may cause the leak.

[Dyslexic Viking]

12 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

Thread tape is only of any point if it relies on the threads to seal, which I doubt. I would expect the pipes to be flared and seal on a conical mating surface. If this is damaged, or dirty this will prevent full contact and may cause the leak.

Was what I suspected with tape. And thank you, here you used the words I have struggled to translate. And am pretty sure that it works as you have written here.

So this is what I have to do, clean and check for damage.

[Nullzwei]

15 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Thanks. I will try this but I don't want to loosen the pipe on the diesel pump because then I will probably have a leak there too. So will try my best.

And one more question, is thread seal tape a no? Because I have one that can withstand chemicals and 120 degrees. It feels like a bodge but what else can one do if this won't stop leaking.

Maybe the injector fitting uses an olive under the top nut to create the seal. Like this... (hopefully olive translates appropriately from English to Norwegian)

 

 

https://www.darwendiesels.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=olives