Minimad5's Thread - 309 content

[RedSparrow]

Great little motor!Love how you've blanked the number plates off in case anyone tries to clone it or use a similar one in a bank job.

[Minimad5]

  RedSparrow said:

Great little motor!Love how you've blanked the number plates off in case anyone tries to clone it or use a similar one in a bank job.

Thanks !If i ever did a bank job, i would have to use the Rebel !!RWD, means you can drift into the bank, and destroy every trace of armoured glass.Then because you can put the rear seats down and use it as a van, you can happily throw bags of cash and coins into the back.The one downfall is it's 45Bhp 700cc engine, but who needs a fast get away ? I actually don't know why i blanked out the registration

[Minimad5]

Small update guy and gals (Sorry no pictures)Well i'm still waiting !!! for the correct rear brake cylinders to come in for the fiesta. So i cracked on with the Rebel.Engine was lifted out a day ago (i think), and been "GUNK'd" , the bleeming head still wont come off thought.And today i used the trusty Bridgeport Series 1, 2HP Milling Lathe, at college. And slightly increased the inlet manifold diameteres (As mentioned on the Reliants owners club .. so i know it is a safe little mod.)So left to do on the Rebel :Engine RebuildNew ExhaustFit electronic Ignition + FanChassis Wire Brush + Anti Rust.Free the sticking brake, and change the master cylinder and brake lines.Run new fuel lines.Fit front seats.Sand, prep and paint (GOING BLUE)Then hopfully MOT ... (If i have not forgotten something)As for the Fiesta :Wait for carpet to dry (It's been 4 days now)Install interior + Heater matrix / boxHave a little look at that dodgy reverse lightWhen they arrive > Fit the new rear brake cylindersFit new wheel bearings to rear O/SRefit fuel tank and exhaustAdjust handbrake cableEngine flushPass Test & DRIVE :)Thanks for viewing my ramblings If you spot something i have missed, please alert me For now ... Bye Byes

[GJR 11L]

  Minimad5 said:

....I then drained the Oil, and smelt petrol had mixed in with it.

So Engine out Job......

Fuel pump diaphragm, they don't like modern fuel, even though the Reliant engine is suited to unleaded by virtue of its hard seats and stainless exhaust valves from the very beginning.

 

Those diaphragms act like the self-repairing fuel tanks of WW2 aircraft; petrol metls the rubber. In the 'plane, that would seal your tank, in a Reliant engine, it allows that fuel to go straight through the rubber and into the sump. Drain it, replace the pump, fill sump with fresh 20w50 and start it up, if it doesn't knock, you'll have got away with it.

 

Front suspension isn't all triumph btw. Damper/spring units are unique to the Rebel, trunnions, top swivels, wishbones are all GT6/Vitesse.

Steering box is a LHD Standard 10 one, idler the same source, all available through the kitten register (01418866117).

 

Worth joining R3W forum for Rebel info, and check front engine bearer plate as some folk assume that 850s go straight in but they need that plate and the flywheel changing to mate up to a Rebel chassis and its long gearbox.

 

GJR had around 60bhp from its original 750 with only a camshaft upgrade and a Weber 32ICH carb over the stock bits.

 

Avoid washing the inner wings, the engine and chassis numbers were written there in magic marker originally but some folk assume it's a bodge and wash it all off.

 

Watch out for smaller, Robin/kitten/mini radiators fitted in there, for 7lb caps where they should be 4lb ones and for 82 degree 'stats where they should be 92.

 

I still miss my last one:

 

 

Galvanised chassis turn up from time to time when the factory finds one that survived the move from the old site, kitten reg sometimes able to offer exchange chassis to members.

 

Oh, and padlock those opening rear windows to a gatepost or something, they're hens' teeth to find and most Rebels that had windows fitted there have fixed ones.

[Mash]

  RedSparrow said:

Great little motor!Love how you've blanked the number plates off in case anyone tries to clone it or use a similar one in a bank job.

Daft as it sounds someone not far from where I live does have an identical one languishing on their drive! I'm tempted to get a pic but where it is I would look very suss

[Minimad5]

Wow GJR 11L thanks for the info !I already have the engine out now anyway, i just can't get the head off it (yet) , then once that is off i will check the pistons for any movement within the bore, i have never replaced piston rings -yet- so want to avoid it if possible (I know it is failry easy, but i don't want to mess anything up)You say if it does not knock i would have got away with it , by that do you mean excessive wear on the shells and so on ?As for joining R3W - I have :)The engine is only a little 700cc with a weber already fitted (Think it is a 32), and i have seen the modification of the inlet manifold, were you take out about an inch from the centre / between the ports. I am abit weary of doing this ... but what advantages does it give ?Sorry for all the questions, but you seem like a guy in the know.As for the radiator , i have no idea what one is on it as of yet, but i do want to fit an electronic fan and electronic ignition.Mash - You should get a picture please sir, and if you are brave enough to ask i could do with it's locks + keys, as i have no keys for mine

[Minimad5]

Yet another update.Fiesta: The carpet finally dried out the other day, and i put all the interior back in.All i need to do now is replace two small bulbs (For the clock) , and fit the centre console.I had a little look at the reverse light, and i think the switch has gone.So i will have to locate it , and try buy a replacement.As for the rear brake cylinders, Lloyd keeps ordering the wrong ones and then forgets to re-order the correct ones. So i hope to get my moniez back today, and order them from else were.As soon as the ground is a little less soggy, i will re-fit the petrol tank and exhaust.Then back on with the rear bumper.Then re-fit the rear drums (once the cylinders are done), bosh it on the ground and start her up, for the first time in afew weeks.As for the rebel, i am going to order a complete Gasket Set.Then either buy another fuel pump (That can cope with unleaded and fuel volume), or come up with some sort of electronic fuel pump.Once the engine is in and running, i will then tackle the body.Maybe even remove the body from chassis, and after that wire brush the chassis + paint with some sort of Zinc based paint.Then onto the interior, and fix the seats.Booking my Theory today, so fingers crossed i pass that !That is all for now... but i will try and edit with a picture of both "shite"Sorry for the rambling.

[GJR 11L]

  Minimad5 said:

Wow GJR 11L thanks for the info !

 

I already have the engine out now anyway, i just can't get the head off it (yet) , then once that is off i will check the pistons for any movement within the bore, i have never replaced piston rings -yet- so want to avoid it if possible (I know it is failry easy, but i don't want to mess anything up)

 

You say if it does not knock i would have got away with it , by that do you mean excessive wear on the shells and so on ?

 

As for joining R3W - I have

 

The engine is only a little 700cc with a weber already fitted (Think it is a 32), and i have seen the modification of the inlet manifold, were you take out about an inch from the centre / between the ports. I am abit weary of doing this ... but what advantages does it give ?

 

Sorry for all the questions.......

Sorry, I've only now realised that you'd asked this stuff....

OK, yes, if the bottom end of the thing doesn't rattle from the mains and ends (and you'll know if it does, they don't hide it well), then there's every chance that no damage has been done. As long as the last person to use the car didn't drive it like that. They'd be unlikely to have done so, when the pump lets go, the first symptom is the bang of the oil filler cap hitting the underside of the bonnet, then come the plumes of petrol/oil mix into the car through the footwell vents.

Fortunately, when I had that happen on one of my (7, or is it 8 by now... ) Rebels, it was standing idling as I was setting up the mixture on the then-new 32ICH that I'd fitted.

The inlet mod is supposed to give a more even mixture across the pairs of inlets where the slots are cut, I have found that it's far more noticeable with the 850s and their SU carbs which are mounted rather awkwardly on an adaptor. Cars with downdraught carbs such as the original Zenith 30IZ are less affected but it does no harm to try it for yourself.

The kitten register (don't worry about the name, they cater for all of the 4-wheelers; Rebel, kitten and Fox) is well worth the joining fee as membership gives you access to many rare parts and a wealth of experience among other members.

Getting the heads off is often a struggle, but many specialists have a special tool that can do that relatively easily.

700s tend not to be particularly hard on their rings, that would be the 850's party trick! On 700s, watch for excessive endfloat on the crankshaft, it should only be around 0.004", though I've owned rather more worn ones that would still run fine if not thrashed.

Other weakness on later 700s, 750s and 850s is the seat of the oil pressure relief valve coming loose where the factory glued it into the block (600s and early, open breather 700s have the seat cut into the aluminium of the block), but unless they work loose, then they are generally ok, if they are loose, it's simple to pull one out with a bit of bent wire. A newer style of one-piece, cassette-type relief valve costs about £15 from Reliant and will provide a lasting solution to that one.

Does your oil light flicker at idle? If so, then a relief valve fault is the most likely cause.

 

There's a lot of bollocks talked on R3W by a very small number of folk who weren't even born when the Rebel was current, but equally there are younger members such as Dan Rodd, Reliantreviver, James at CHG Performance, Patrick McRebel, Philhal [who isn't young, but he's an engineering God....] and others, who really know their stuff and have been building engines and restoring cars since they were just out of nappies.

I tend not to go there any longer as I become a stroppy, arrogant bastard when some f*ckwit asks for advice then ignores it and blames me when their project goes tits-up!

[Minimad5]

haha, Thanks again GJR 11L !!!I owe you an ice cold beverage.I don't want to do anything silly when it comes to performance modifications, i just want it to keep up with the flow of modern traffic, so little things like removing the belt driven fan, and replacing it with an electric one, should free up a TINY tiny amount of power, but every little helps.What fuel pump would you reccomend when it comes to re-fitting the engine ?Thank you kind sir !As for the Fizzler ...It now has the CORRECT brake cylinders fitted .. WOOH :)Drums are back on too, i just need to tighten up the brake line, fill it with fluid. Then tank and exhaust back on(Should be done soon !)

[warren t claim]

Any chance of some Fester Fotos?

[Minimad5]

Lol there is not much to see, just an installed interior (minus centre console) , drums are back on ... and the back is still on axle stands.But i will venture outside and see what i can do.Warren, you should reply to the Pm dude "What car", or were you joking ?If so tell me to fook off.Back in a minute !(Going to take pictures, and put the rebel steering wheel back on)

[GJR 11L]

I'd look at electric fuel pumps. You won't need much flow to run an engine that should be capable of an easy 60mpg and R3W has lots of advice about fitting electric pumps to Reliants. Blank the hole in the block with the same plate as used to blank fuel pump drive holes on 'A'-series blocks.I may be able to find a new/old stock pump somewhere that you'd be welcome to for cost of posting it as I'd recommend a new diaphragm be fitted before using anything old and made of rubber in contact with today's unleaded fuel. kit reg can often find pump repair kits for around £8, you could even rebuild the original pump, after all, it was leaking at some time but might actually work when mended. One of the best... no, scrub that.... THE BEST modification you can make to a Reliant engine is to have the bottom end properly balanced.The low gearing of the Rebel (14mph per 1000rpm in 4th) means that an unbalanced one will start to vibrate alarmingly by about 70mph. That 750 of mine in the earlier piccie was balanced and would happily pull 98mph, or 7000rpm in 4th. It got quieter after about 70, the noise couldn't keep up....

[Minimad5]

  GJR 11L said:

I'd look at electric fuel pumps.I may be able to find a new/old stock pump somewhere that you'd be welcome to for cost of posting it. THE BEST modification you can make to a Reliant engine is to have the bottom end properly balanced

Thanks again GJR !I have been looking at an electrical fuel pump, but wouldn't know how to wire it in, because it would over fuel if left on. . . so i will ask on R3W about wiring an electrical pump.If you could find a pump that would be fantastic - Thank you ( x100 )As for the bottom end .... i will certainly fit that within my budgetOnce again sir, you have helped me ALOT (Stay "tuned" for some pictures to come)

[Pete-M]

I take it you do know about the Reliant Specialists on Edge Lane behind the petrol station?They've been there since shortly before the beginning of time and they're still faffing about with the things.

[Minimad5]

  Pete-M said:

I take it you do know about the Reliant Specialists on Edge Lane behind the petrol station?They've been there since shortly before the beginning of time and they're still faffing about with the things.

No Edge Lane Liverpool ?Edge Lane Ellsemere Port ?Thank you Pete !

[Pete-M]

Edge Lane, LiverpoolUnfortunately, I can't remember what the place is called, and they're unlikely to have heard of the interweb. Next time I'm passing I'll pop in and try and swipe a phone number. They may have moved with the Edge Lane redevelopment madness.Won't be tomorrow, but sometime this week, all going well.

[Minimad5]

Thanks pete !It will help massivly

[Minimad5]

Moved the pictures from page 9 (To make it easier)

 

As requested ..PICTURES for Warren:

 

 

Still needs a slight sanding:

Sneek peak at the new rear cylinders

Underneath minus tank and rear box

Tank in boot

Arches need "Finishing"

Just a little sand & spray needed

Shabby interior

 

Now some Rebel Pics

 

Awaiting head removal (There is the 850 engine behind it ... which i may sell ? )

Blue ? or White ?

Crap, the rad fell

More:

This is why i need the "sponge stuff" from Lankytim:

yet more ..

Had a little go on the Milling Lathe and it turned out "okay"

Spares

Autoshite non aerial fix

Barry was ere

Most importantly

[GJR 11L]

Well the radiator in this image:

is the right one for the car, so that's a good thing.

 

Brake master cylinders are available at a shade over a tenner from MM 4x4, ask for a Series 3 Land Rover (Girling CV type) clutch master, it's the same thing.

That being a 700, it won't have an hydraulic clutch, so that's only one of those needed, speaking of clutches, that Laycock cover on the 700 engine is a rare and sought-after part, the 3-piece kit is prized by Imp folk as an upgrade, standard issue on a 700 would have been a coil spring clutch by Borg & Beck which is weak and has a heavy pedal action, so you've scored there.

 

I'm surprised to see a 700 on an 'L' plate. Most late cars were 750s and most of those were built before the end of 1972, so yours must have been built around September 1972 at the latest. Either way, tax-free shite is definitely a win.

 

Those seats are fortunate in having decent coverings, they're like hens' teeth to find, the collapsed look comes courtesy of failed diaphragms, Many similarly-sized ones from other cars can be cut down to fit then, with some stuffing, they'll come up like new.

 

Or you can always annoy a mini purist by fitting a set of mini 25 limited edition chairs with handy little pockets on their front edge.

I almost got lynched a few times, by angry mini 25 restorers, for using these:

 

I only just sold that car's original, A35-style steering wheel. Shame, or you could have had that if you'd wanted a great big one that made getting in and out of the car quite difficult.

[Minimad5]

I don't want to sound 100% stupid... but what is the "Laycock cover" ?EDIT : - how stupid am i -I never knew it was called that, but i know what you mean now !!I actually need to take a photo of a part (which the name slips my mind - hate having a bad memory).... but anyway i need to know if it will fit my gearbox.(Sorry and thank you )

[GJR 11L]

Laycock made that particular style of diaphragm clutch, back in the 70s to the early 90s, they're the strongest clutch kits they used and yet had the lightest pedal action, newer, LUK kits are rubbish by comparison and the plates aren't interchangeable between covers so cherish that, for it is pure gold!I still have a plate for one of those in the garage somewhere, but I'm sure it isn't mine or I'd donate that.Feel free to ask by forum pm here or at R3W if you need to cross-reference any parts, I have vast lists of alternatives in my capacity as Rebel parts bloke for the kitten reg. It's a warm job, inside this mouldy, '70s anorak, but some fecker had to do it and I didn't run away fast enough when asked.

[mouseflakes]

I really like the Rebel. In answer to the question - 'blue or white' - I'd say it looks best white.

[Minimad5]

Thanks Mouseflakes.Damn one white !Me, Joe and my dad prefer it Blue.Actually let me get a poll going.What ever the majority decides, it will go that colour Thanks for the interest, love knowing others find my "shite" interesting

[mouseflakes]

Don't listen to me though, that's just my preference - I thought you might be undecided - paint it the colour you prefer, it's your car.

[Tayne]

.

[Minimad5]

I was thinking that kind of dark blue, because of the Chrome bumpers, light rings, and not yet fitted chrome indicators.Blue + Chrome = StylishOr is that just poo ? I want to ask everyone what colour they prefer, as it is nice to get a second , third or fifthy ninth opinion.But i am swaying dark-ish blueInfact i have a tin of Ford Blue, that i got for FREE ! .. and definitely want it this colour.

[garethj]

I have a lot of love for the Rebel, but I'd prefer the saloon rather than the van.

 

I've got a roadtest of a Suzuki Whizzkid somewhere and they were talking about how good its fuel economy was - miles better than a Mini, but I think the Kitten was even better. Reliant knew a thing or two about making those little aluminium engines.

 

Strangest use for a Reliant engine is in this Feet Forwards bike built by Royce Creasy

 

 

The body's not much to look at but it's a clever thing

[VWPowered]

i think i nice bold flat colour like this would look awesome..

 

[Minimad5]

EEE , John that would look horrible It would be like a huge hearing aid on wheels. (Nothing against anyone who wears a hearing aid)

[trigger]

After seeing that bike i'm quite fancying yellow for it, that was quite a 70's colour.Or just go for blue, that's also nice. good work btw.