A40 - Scottish Road trip. Utter hero of a car

[MiniMinorMk3]

Have a read of the info on Keith Calvers site.

TECHNICAL INFO (calverst.com)

MiniSpares do a new Cooper S non vacuum type for not many £££s. Very similar to 1275cc Midget ones.

12G2140 - Mini distributor 23d non vac s type dissy (minispares.com)

[Matty]

2 hours ago, MiniMinorMk3 said:

Have a read of the info on Keith Calvers site.

TECHNICAL INFO (calverst.com)

MiniSpares do a new Cooper S non vacuum type for not many £££s. Very similar to 1275cc Midget ones.

12G2140 - Mini distributor 23d non vac s type dissy (minispares.com)

That distributor is very reasonable. I'm still trying to digest Keith's info. All I understand so far is my dizzy will work in a 1275 but not perfectly, whereas a dizzy for a 1275 used in a small bore engine like my current one could spell disaster through detonation. More reading and brain power required.

[Matty]

At least the block is prepped and painted now so once the rest of my bits turn up, reassembly can take place.

New core plugs fitted

masked (god that took a while)

painted

[Shandylegs]

Don’t know how I’ve missed this before, what a lovely thing!

I’m normally very much in the yank it out and fit something more modern camp. However, in this case a hot A series just seems so right.

[Matty]

Been doing a bit of reading today. So I'm seeking more opinions on the way forward.

It would appear I can put the distributor assy from my 1098 in the new engine and it will work to a fashion. This is the no cost option obvs.

Option 2 is to buy the minispares 23d non vac dizzy as linked above by @MiniMinorMk3 and put my distributor doctor points, condensor and rotor arm in it. The reasonable cost option.

Option 3 is to go for an Aldon yellow distributor. These supposedly have an optimised curve for most fast road cams. Reasonable cost involved in this.

What do you think everyone?

[Mr Pastry]

No harm in trying the 1098 distributor.  It may be quite satisfactory.  Did the new engine not have a suitable dizzy? 

 

[MiniMinorMk3]

Start with the 1098 one to get the car running and then after a rolling road session see what is recommended by the tuner.

The Aldon yellow has a maximum advance of 24 degrees, 

The minispares distributor has more advance throughout the rev range

 

 

[Matty]

14 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

No harm in trying the 1098 distributor.  It may be quite satisfactory.  Did the new engine not have a suitable dizzy? 

 

It has a 25d same as mine. The distributor itself is in fairly ropey condition though compared with mine and it has an accuspark electronic ignition kit in it of uncertain vintage. Everything just looked and felt a bit tired. While I'm asking, does the skew drive just run in the block? I didn't find any bearing shells when removing it.

[Matty]

13 minutes ago, MiniMinorMk3 said:

Start with the 1098 one to get the car running and then after a rolling road session see what is recommended by the tuner.

The Aldon yellow has a maximum advance of 24 degrees, 

The minispares distributor has more advance throughout the rev range

 

 

A good plan of course, and indicative of why I ask these questions. I've always had this habit of going off half cocked 😄 

[Mr Pastry]

22 minutes ago, Matty said:

While I'm asking, does the skew drive just run in the block? I didn't find any bearing shells when removing it.

Just runs in the block I think, I can't find any reference to a separate bearing. 

[Tommyboy12]

I was out on the piss for the weekend so I'm late chipping in on the dizzy question. Aldon Yellow would be suitable. Alternatively if you're happy to change from a 25D to a 45D then this is a pretty good dizzy. It's electronic which is a good start. I've used it with an SW5 and a 276 camshaft and it's a very reasonable price.

https://www.minispares.com/product/classic/C-27H7698.aspx

Also the dizzy drive runs in the block without bearings to answer your other question. Lube it up heavily before you insert it. Mostly that's to stop the seal from tearing and you dumping oil out the dizzy shaft.

 

[Matty]

Big morning.

[Matty]

[Matty]

Timed dot to dot with new chain and gears 

[Matty]

[Matty]

Finally.

[Matty]

Bit of a cheat. I was 3 conrod nuts short so sumps only on with 4 bolts so I can go back in when the nuts turn up next week and finish the job. 

Also no starter, alternator, dizzy as they are being taken from my current 1098. As is my complete rocker assy as it has forged rockers. So heads not pulled down yet either. My car needs to be mobile still to go to the unit to do the swap.

[Tommyboy12]

Nice effort. It always feels good to get an engine back together

[Matty]

So the final spec is.

1310cc

Marina block

Midget crank (balanced)

Balanced flywheel

Cooper s conrods

731 profile cam

Weber 40DCOE carb.

Just hope it works when it goes in the car now 😬

 

[Matty]

7 minutes ago, Tommyboy12 said:

Nice effort. It always feels good to get an engine back together

Really enjoyed it in fairness. This is my first full engine.

[JMotor]

Top work Matty.

Should look the job when it's installed into the A40. 

[Matty]

I'm having a break now till the end of Jan then it's going in the car.

I want to do something with @SiCs seats in the meantime. Make a good pair and clean them up. And take drivers seat out while the car isn't being used and get my mate to make me some subframes to an idea I've had.

And I've got a smiths tachometer to go in as well. So a mounting arrangement to make for that.

Having a break 🤣. Never mind, tonight im going out and drinking heavily. I can worry about all this tomorow!

[Matty]

As an aside. For the Eagle eyed. Yes I know that the crank pulley is buggered. I will be buying and fitting a new one before use. Not much of a harmonic balancer when bits of it are missing 😕 

[Matty]

Having a break from the engine for a week or so as I've decided I'm not happy with the conrod bolts. And of course being AEG521 conrods, they aren't standard bolts. Which means they are an order of magnitude more expensive. Standard ones are £2.80 each. I'm probably going to have to go with ARP due to an almost complete lack of availability. At £170. 🙄

The bolts rotated on their seats when torqued. They should be captive. Not going to use them now, god knows how old they are anyway!

 

[Matty]

In the meantime I've pulled the passenger seat out. Whilst the cars off road for winter I'm going to make up some subframes so as I can get @SiCs seats fitted. When I'm back in work next week I'll start pulling the seats in bits and make a good pair.

I've also started putting the tachometer in. Was going to make my own mount but a pod was only £16 from minispares so it seemed a lot of work for nowt. I've managed to get it in the car without drilling the dash shelf so happy with that. I never want to do owt to the car that can't be put back. I think it looks bloody ace. Just like I pictured it.

Not wired in yet. I've started pulling a loom through but I'm short of a few bits and I want to borrow bosses gas soldering torch.

 

[Matty]

I could do with a bit of advice from our resident old car mechanics as well. In the photos below, which is the switch live feed and which is the signal? I'm assuming switch live is the male spade and signal is the post but it'd be nice to have it confirmed.

And whilst we are about it, what fitting should go on the post? Its between sizes for a common modern bullet connector (female). Bit stumped if im honest!

[Matty]

Ignore that last post.

The post connection on the tachometer is indeed signal from the dizzy (negative) side of the coil. 

And I reckon these are the fittings I need.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203128304661?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1pkFul98Sae&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=svwv9r4orxa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hope so anyhow. I've bought em 😆

[Matty]

Pleasant bit of time in the garage today. Bought this for myself for Xmas

Finally got round to putting it in the car.

Bit of a loom pulled through

Loom taped

Safety first! Fused link made up with a 10amp blade in it

Engine end. Fully insulated connectors and plenty of heat shrink. Still cant solder worth a wank 😄

[Matty]

And guess what? It only bloody works!

 

[Matty]

I was going to make my own mount but the pod was only 16 quid from Minispares. Didn't seem worth the faf.

I'll probably move it further into the dash centre. I've picked up a hole in the shelf support underneath so as not to drill holes in the car but it's a bit obscured when driving by the indicator stalk. So I'll make a bracket using the shelf support to move it more into the centre.