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JJ0063’s current steed - Life of an impulsive car owner [N47 CHAIN GANG]


JJ0063

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12 minutes ago, JJ0063 said:

I have Carly which is a really good OBD app, it’s showing no codes - I’ll have to see if I can do some live read outs 

Of course if a plug is weak but still functional, it won't necessarily throw a code. Make sure Carly isn't reading generic OBD2 and is reading VAG specific codes. 

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Read this on another forum 

 

“The cold 140 takes a huge battery load to throw it over fast enough for the ECU to start fueling it correctly. The ECU looks at the starting rpm, and it needs to see something like 250 rpm before it sends plenty of fuel to the injectors.”

 

Decided to stick the Noco jump pack on this morning and filmed the cold start.. started fine albeit a bit of smoke but it’s a 130k diesel and the smoke clears so I’m not worried about that. I’ll have to try it a few days in a row with the pack on to make sure it wasn’t a coincidence but maybe just needs a new battery then.

 

 

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16 minutes ago, SiC said:

Ah is this PD not CR?

No it’s CR, I assumed that post I pasted was referring to a CR as a PD would be a 130 or 150?


Just went out to go to the shop and without the jump pack it started like a bag of shit again - cranked for 3-4 secs then started with a cloud of smoke 

Still wondering if I need to chuck a new battery on it tbh 

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1 hour ago, JJ0063 said:

No it’s CR, I assumed that post I pasted was referring to a CR as a PD would be a 130 or 150?

The 2.0TDi used in A4 B7 was a 140bhp PD. Think that power output was the same on many other 2.0TDi PDs of that era.

Could still be an issue with the CR I guess but I know those engine speed thresholds were definitely a problem with the PDs. But if you're getting white smoke, that suggests unburnt fuel. If the injectors are being inhibited from lack of rpm, I wouldn't expect unburnt fuel smoke. 

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I went down this path my Caddy, 1.9 tdi so different engine, but long crank to start when hot. First things changed were battery then start motor, various other things tried then this thread kicked in, its a long old read but too sum it up, ended up with a top end rebuild, new fuel tandem pump and in tank pump.

Good luck with it all.

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7 minutes ago, Popsicle said:

top end rebuild

Doesn't have the PD cam lobes for pressurising the unit injectors though as it's a CR. Much less stress on the cam and more like a traditional combustion OHC engine setup. 

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14 minutes ago, Popsicle said:

I went down this path my Caddy, 1.9 tdi so different engine, but long crank to start when hot. First things changed were battery then start motor, various other things tried then this thread kicked in, its a long old read but too sum it up, ended up with a top end rebuild, new fuel tandem pump and in tank pump.

Good luck with it all.

Thanks 

To be honest I don’t think it’s that serious - this is a typical first/cold start issue that completely goes away once it’s warmed up. The fact sticking a jump pack on it made it start normally from cold in my mind pretty much confirms the battery is on its way out. Before I bought it, the car had been sat for 7 months as well so I dare say that hasn’t helped things.

 

Going to see if I can find a cheap 096 start stop battery and go from there I think 

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1 minute ago, SiC said:

Doesn't have the PD cam lobes for pressurising the unit injectors though as it's a CR. Much less stress on the cam and more like a traditional combustion OHC engine setup. 

Fair point, that would have saved me a grand or more! Just the knackered battery, starter, fuel pump, in tank pump & injectors to worry about then..........

Or are there any ecu flashes available? There was one for mine that lowered the required starting rpm from 280? to 220 I think. Obviously made no difference to mine as the camshaft was the underlying problem.

To be fair on the face of it all I'd be looking if any glow plugs are showing as an open circuit first, then take it from there.

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2 minutes ago, JJ0063 said:

Thanks 

To be honest I don’t think it’s that serious - this is a typical first/cold start issue that completely goes away once it’s warmed up. The fact sticking a jump pack on it made it start normally from cold in my mind pretty much confirms the battery is on its way out. Before I bought it, the car had been sat for 7 months as well so I dare say that hasn’t helped things.

 

Going to see if I can find a cheap 096 start stop battery and go from there I think 

Definitely the sensible course of action to take in my mind. Mine was just a bodged bag of shit that should have been but out of its misery years ago 😂.

 

  • Haha 2
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I’ve just put an Exide AGM in my wife’s Pug and in my Saab 9-3. Subaru has a Bosch in it.

I just get the best value branded batteries from Tayna, anything with a three year warranty is fine for me

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On 07/09/2022 at 12:10, SiC said:

The 2.0TDi used in A4 B7 was a 140bhp PD. Think that power output was the same on many other 2.0TDi PDs of that era.

Could still be an issue with the CR I guess but I know those engine speed thresholds were definitely a problem with the PDs. But if you're getting white smoke, that suggests unburnt fuel. If the injectors are being inhibited from lack of rpm, I wouldn't expect unburnt fuel smoke. 

White smoke on a diesel is indicative of too much air surely?

Black is too much fuel…

 

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1 hour ago, alf892 said:

White smoke on a diesel is indicative of too much air surely?

Black is too much fuel…

 

White smoke is unburnt diesel on a cold combustion chamber.

This train startup shows it very elegantly! Smoke turning to grey as each cylinder comes online. Once fully up to temperature and moving around (end of video), the smoke is nearly completely clear.

 

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Been trying with and without the jump pack and annoyingly I don’t think it is the battery - there’s no pattern to it. 
 

Yesterday I didn’t film but with the jump pack on it still didn’t start well, then this morning I didn’t bother with the jump pack and it started fine.

Warm starts are always fine. It’s only ever on a stone cold start it’s doing it 

From what I can see in the mirror, it’s white/light blue smoke when it starts. Clears very quickly.

I’ll keep filming the cold starts, will catch it on film soon! 

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12 hours ago, JJ0063 said:

Warm starts are always fine. It’s only ever on a stone cold start it’s doing it 

Whilst I am not a big fan of parts roulette.... How much for a set of glow plugs? Our Volvo D5 started and runs much better having had a set even though it didn't complain about the old ones. Set of 5 was about £40 iirc.

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9 minutes ago, Wgl2019 said:

Whilst I am not a big fan of parts roulette.... How much for a set of glow plugs? Our Volvo D5 started and runs much better having had a set even though it didn't complain about the old ones. Set of 5 was about £40 iirc.

Yeah looks to be £40 odd for a set of Bosch, I’ll probably try that!

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2 hours ago, Jazoli said:

You test them with a multimeter, not a scan tool.

I know, I was saying I don’t have any way to test them as in I don’t have a multimeter - so wondered if there was anything within the tool I have as it has lots of live readings. 

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3 minutes ago, JJ0063 said:

I need to get a multimeter so not yet but I wouldn’t have thought it’s cold enough for them to cause an issue?

Some diesel cars use heater plugs all year round it's just the time they are switched on is less in warmer weather.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-ac-dc-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

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1 hour ago, JJ0063 said:

Finally got it on video 

 

 

Exactly how mine was when warm.

Mine improved for a while if I cycled the ignition on and off a few times before starting, no cost so might be worth trying.

 

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