1966 Plymouth Fury 3

[PhilA]

 

[mark165]

Not much to add as a lurker other than thanks for keeping the updates coming.

[2flags]

It's alive!!! That is such a satisfying thing. No clouds of smoke and horrible banging noises! 

[PhilA]

Splines are clean now.

[PhilA]

I'll just leave this here.

 

 

[hairnet]

John force 0 Andrews bloke 1

[PhilA]

So, I know the gearbox isn't complete trash. It's very sloppy; I've taken a guess at the amount of oil it's got in (book says it takes 9qts so it got 9qts put in). Need to get a dipstick.
Engagement is not positive, but it's not really been run much.

Unfortunately the rear driveshaft yoke is junk, only one half of it is attached right now, one bolt hole is completely hogged out and I sheared a bolt off in the other. That's $150 I didn't want to spend, and getting that one off is going to be FUN.

Obviously just a preliminary to see if the transmission even wanted to engage and provide gears.

Bit of a mental boost, too.

Phil

[PhilA]

The engine is dry.

Transmission leaks like a sieve.

[PhilA]

Apparently a common issue, the selector shaft o-ring fails and the torque converter drains back down (it shouldn't but TADTS) overfilling the pan and it proceeds to barf out of every available orifice.

[Back_For_More]

15 minutes ago, PhilA said:

Apparently a common issue, the selector shaft o-ring fails and the torque converter drains back down (it shouldn't but TADTS) overfilling the pan and it proceeds to barf out of every available orifice.

Is that an easy fix then? Drain some out or a flush and replace etc...? 

[PhilA]

24 minutes ago, Back_For_More said:

Is that an easy fix then? Drain some out or a flush and replace etc...? 

Engine out.

 

Admittedly the gearbox was an unknown quantity when I got the car; for it to do this is well within the realm of what was potential to occur. 

I was just hoping it was leaking from the unions I did up yesterday, but those sealed up nicely.

[hairnet]

as long as its seals and rings not expensive metallic bits like last time

 

[PhilA]

1 hour ago, hairnet said:

as long as its seals and rings not expensive metallic bits like last time

 

Little early to tell yet

[hairnet]

find a dead beemer and getrag it

[PhilA]

No.

I asked around and apparently you can remove the seals with a modified screwdriver. I went bought the new seal at AutoZone this morning, just under $4

I am still amazed at the parts availability for these cars.

Imagine going to Halfords, and the selector shaft seal being in stock for a '66 Hillman. Furthermore, the vehicle is in their database and lists the correct part.

[PhilA]

I created the modified tool.

It's over that way.

[somewhatfoolish]

Mechanic's tools by Terry Gilliam.

[PhilA]

Huh. Yup. I still own this, it seems.

Decided to try continue on the task I started in November. Life got in the way.

Mayonnaise and flies. Just what every transmission needs.

Cleaned and the dents beaten out.

Then spent two hours looking for the seal I bought. Discovered I also need the smaller seal that fits in the top. I'll have to measure and try find an equivalent.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Got the valve block cleaned out today. 

What a lot of labyrinth. With balls.

[PhilA]

Got that nonsense all reassembled and waiting on the new seal. That'll hopefully be in this afternoon.

[Stanky]

14 hours ago, PhilA said:

Got the valve block cleaned out today. 

What a lot of labyrinth. With balls.

Is that like the 'elite' version of those things you get in christmas crackers where you have to steer the ballbearing through the maze by carefully tilting it?

[PhilA]

5 minutes ago, Stanky said:

Is that like the 'elite' version of those things you get in christmas crackers where you have to steer the ballbearing through the maze by carefully tilting it?

Yeah, that came to mind. I'm glad I was aware there's ball bearings in it because otherwise opening it up would have resulted in the clatter of the things falling out onto the tray.

Then it definitely wouldn't work...

[PhilA]

Wrong bloody seal.

 

Back to the drawing board

[PhilA]

Ordered the correct part*, and also a seal for the speedometer drive.

Phil

*hopefully 

[PhilA]

Seal arrived and is the correct part.

I'll get a C clip because the original shattered when I took it off. Then it can all go back together.

[PhilA]

Reassembly begun. 30¢ C clip later:

That's the kickdown lever held in place.

Picked up a new seal. This one's round. 

Set it in place and used a bigger washer to clamp it all down. Several tries later and it decided to go in square.

All clamped down tight. 

Yup, that's good.

So, put the rest of the valve block together and into the case. Filled it up. It didn't leak initially.

So what the hey. Might as well see if it will actually make the car go. It goes forward and backwards. Not bad.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Still leaks. Just not feom the seals I fixed.

Couple more on order.

[bunglebus]

Man this thing's fighting you. Well done for persevering

[PhilA]

6 hours ago, bunglebus said:

Man this thing's fighting you. Well done for persevering

Nah, the pan seal didn't take well to being removed. The front is thin and only has one sealing lip, and that's where it's leaking. I've ordered a nice cork gasket for it.

The other leak point is fairly easy, the dipstick tube is leaking at a modest rate. That's just an O-ring so I'll go get a replacement and fit it.

 

After that any leaks will be the tailshaft and input seals. I have a kit to stop the speedometer drive leaking, but need to get the correct clamp.

I also noticed that I need a new distributor, which is great. When they dumped the engine in, recall the original cap was broken? Yup, that impact bent the distributor, which wiggles about when the engine is running. Hard to see with the engine out, but right up next to the firewall it's visible.

 

I'll get there in the end. Really what I need to do is fix the rust first...

[PhilA]

Bought some pieces. Dipstick is too long, can see if the new tube (for Chevrolet) fits. Because hey, chrome.