Water and bulbs dont mix. CRV still hates me - Cookie's adventures in shiteing

[Cookiesouwest]

11 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I had it connected to and communicating with a snap on solus scanner when I had it without any trouble, it might well be a bit fussy with a generic reader

I wish I was more local otherwise I would have gladly offered to assist in getting to the bottom of whatever it is that's been plauging that car 😅

Its ok. Could well be the code reader or the lead.

I did try my VCDS knock off, but that didnt work - although slight* chance that it may be water damaged.

Im using torque pro app with elm obd dongle. Could well be that the polo wont talk to it.

For now, all EML / EPC lights are off.

So I will treat it to a new drivers mirror and headlight level motor.

At which point it will probably kick me in the balls lol

[Cookiesouwest]

I had to pop to Frome tonight after work. Approx 15 mile round trip.

Half way there, the EML appeared.

On restart in Frome, the EPC light also made an appearance. Clearly its unhappy at missing out on dashboard bingo.

As I was driving home, I remembered I had a very old basic code reader, somewhere in the depths of the shed. 

Once home, a good rummage produced this - an early autel. I bought it over a decade ago to read a mk1 focus and then never used it. Think it was about a tenner.

It was meant to be ford specific but 1) It reads OBD standard codes, so it should work and 2) remembering what @SiC said about my torque pro maybe too new to talk to an old VW - it had to be worth a shot.

 

What did I have to lose?

Plugged it in and it only bloody connected !

The screen text is reversed though - someone in China screwed this code reader together wrong.

Two codes present

P0402 which is

And P0106

The EGR has been blanked off, but I dont think that would cause the code.

Multiple issues could cause the problem.

Also maybe old codes.

Ive erased the codes - yep that worked too !

Im going to order a new, but just as basic reader from ebay.

When the codes make an appearance again, will read the codes, then go from there.

For now, it's 1 - 1

[Sigmund Fraud]

Splendid progress !

If the EGR code comes back, it may be worth checking the relevant pipework - IIRC those have a very long metal pipe that tends to stress fracture ?

MAP sensor issues are not uncommon, and pattern sensors are fairly cheap, so if the code comes back it may be worth another round of parts darts.

[SiC]

17 hours ago, Sigmund Fraud said:

MAP sensor issues are not uncommon, and pattern sensors are fairly cheap, so if the code comes back it may be worth another round of parts darts.

I'd go BOSCH or OE only on sensors. A lot of the pattern sensors ime are shite and make the problem worse.

The MAP sensor code could also be triggered by the EGR providing airflow/leak that's triggering it. 

I've had a lot of success with spraying brake cleaner/electrical contact cleaner down the MAP sensor inlet hole and then using a cotton bud to clean out all the crud. 

[Sigmund Fraud]

32 minutes ago, SiC said:

I'd go BOSCH or OE only on sensors. A lot of the pattern sensors ime are shite and make the problem worse.

I've used a fair number of shitty SMP-supplied sensors over the years. It would not surprise me the least to hear that the values they were sending to the ECU deviated from those of the genuine sensor. But they clearly didn't deviate enough to affect driveability, or prevent the cars they were installed in from passing an emissions test.

[Cookiesouwest]

Quick update.

Drove it today. EML and EPC appeared after around 5 mins.

Read the code

Only the one.

Also the code reader display is now the correct way round. Great. Amazon just informed me my new code reader (that I dont really need now), is awaiting collection lol

I have ordered a MAP sensor. 

Im not ruling out any other problems and I may have intermittant issues with other sensors that didnt show up this time.

Its 20 + yrs old, so only to be expected that sensors wear out.

Shame they all seem to be doing it at the same time.

As the German couple on my favourite YT channel, LR Time, always say - Fix what you can see - one problem at a time.

 

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

The MAP sensor code could also be triggered by the EGR providing airflow/leak that's triggering it. 

 

EGR has been blanked off.

Assuming it was blanked correctly, would that cause issues with sensors?

[Cookiesouwest]

59 minutes ago, Sigmund Fraud said:

I've used a fair number of shitty SMP-supplied sensors over the years. It would not surprise me the least to hear that the values they were sending to the ECU deviated from those of the genuine sensor. But they clearly didn't deviate enough to affect driveability, or prevent the cars they were installed in from passing an emissions test.

When I had the coolant sensor changed it was OE from VW. 70 quid. Compared to a tenner from ebay.

The MAP sensor ive ordered is the cheapest from a UK supplier on ebay - took your advice.

If it fixes the problem, but fails quickly, I will follow @SiC advice and then get an OE sensor.

It was sub 20 quid, so nothing to lose.

[Sigmund Fraud]

1 hour ago, Cookiesouwest said:

EGR has been blanked off.

Assuming it was blanked correctly, would that cause issues with sensors?

It would, if the ECU expects a change in manifold pressure when the EGR is open.

I suppose the new MAP sensor will help narrow the issue down - if both codes return, it will be time to focus on the EGR system.

[SiC]

4 hours ago, Sigmund Fraud said:

I've used a fair number of shitty SMP-supplied sensors over the years. It would not surprise me the least to hear that the values they were sending to the ECU deviated from those of the genuine sensor. But they clearly didn't deviate enough to affect driveability, or prevent the cars they were installed in from passing an emissions test.

The worst I had was an aftermarket MAF that was on my TT MK1. According to the paperwork, the last garage who worked on fitted it and seemed to be a Euro Car Parts own brand. 

Anyway it caused the engine to loose a lot of power. Even worse, after I changed it for a genuine BOSCH, MPG went from a low 20s to a low 30s in the same driving routes.

Presumably that cheap MAF was the cause of the last owner to get rid after loosing power & economy going shite.

Personally if I'm on a budget, I'd rather have a second hand big named brand unit than a generic Chinese special.

3 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

When I had the coolant sensor changed it was OE from VW. 70 quid. Compared to a tenner from ebay.

The MAP sensor ive ordered is the cheapest from a UK supplier on ebay - took your advice.

If it fixes the problem, but fails quickly, I will follow @SiC advice and then get an OE sensor.

It was sub 20 quid, so nothing to lose.

Presumably the garage fitted the OE sensor as they've had issues with the cheap ones in the past?

The biggest thing is that it probably won't show it's not performing correctly. It'll run but a loss of performance and/or fuel economy. The MAP is used on these to determine fueling requirements.

3 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Its 20 + yrs old, so only to be expected that sensors wear out.

Ime MAP sensors rarely properly fail. At least any post 2000. There will be some of course but it's rare.

Definitely try giving it a clean as I suggested above. Cheap/free fix if it works. Doing exactly that cleared the MAP code on my Z4 back in October and it hasn't come back since. There was a whole lot of oily/carbony crud in my sensor port that came out, so no wonder it was throwing a code.

[Cookiesouwest]

You couldnt make this up.

Little Cookie leaves for work.

She is in the silver Polo. She sends this.

To be fair, she has had the low coolant warning before (when the weather was freezing), but now has a full house. Clearly the Silver Polo does not like being left out of EML bingo.

It really doesnt like the Cold. Weird because it spent a lot of years in North Wales, where it does get a bit chilly.

Not helped by her only driving it 2 miles, 4 days a week. It just doesn't ever get hot.

Im tired of telling her that it needs to be driven.

Will get it booked in for a new coolant temp and a coolant change.

I will also read the codes when she gets home tonight.

Maybe I should add another car to the fleet and see how long it takes for a warning light to appear

[SiC]

Clearly you know the answer here

 

Buy a her a small Honda (Jazz)!

 

[SiC]

2 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Will get it booked in for a new coolant temp and a coolant change

Is it red or yellow light for low coolant? I can't remember on this age VAG.

If it thinks it's low coolant but the coolant level is okay, I have another cheap fix for you 😅

The sensor is basically two prongs in the tank that basically electrically detect if coolant is between them. As the tank ages, these prongs build up residue from the coolant and such. The cheap fix is, with the cap off, to get a flat headed screwdriver and give those prongs a scrape. You'll hear if there is crud on them as it scrapes off. Don't need to go crazy or do them all the way around - just enough to remove the surface on a side of them. 

I've done that a few times on various aged VAG vehicles and kept the erroneous warning light off. 

[Cookiesouwest]

4 hours ago, SiC said:

Is it red or yellow light for low coolant? I can't remember on this age VAG.

If it thinks it's low coolant but the coolant level is okay, I have another cheap fix for you 😅

The sensor is basically two prongs in the tank that basically electrically detect if coolant is between them. As the tank ages, these prongs build up residue from the coolant and such. The cheap fix is, with the cap off, to get a flat headed screwdriver and give those prongs a scrape. You'll hear if there is crud on them as it scrapes off. Don't need to go crazy or do them all the way around - just enough to remove the surface on a side of them. 

I've done that a few times on various aged VAG vehicles and kept the erroneous warning light off. 

Its red and yes it thinks there is no coolant. I will give that fix a try.

Ta

[Cookiesouwest]

New cheapo code reader received and works - after a little persuasion.

 

Code reading issue clearly lies with the port. Needs a bit of waggling sometimes to get a good connection.

Will try the map sensor clean suggested by @SiC, when its not 2c below freezing.

[Snake Charmer]

4 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Code reading issue clearly lies with the port. Needs a bit of waggling sometimes to get a good connection

I'm now plugging into different OBDII ports on a daily basis up to 10 times a day, had a few where the  car plug is a bit loose or not clipped in properly and needs a bit of attention to connect. 

Perhaps the outer socket on one or two of your your code readers is a bit long and not connecting correctly?

My  iCarsoft unit clipped itself onto the OBDII  plug of the @bobdisk BMW and wouldn't come off!

[Cookiesouwest]

13 minutes ago, Snake Charmer said:

I'm now plugging into different OBDII ports on a daily basis up to 10 times a day, had a few where the  car plug is a bit loose or not clipped in properly and needs a bit of attention to connect. 

Perhaps the outer socket on one or two of your your code readers is a bit long and not connecting correctly?

My  iCarsoft unit clipped itself onto the OBDII  plug of the @bobdisk BMW and wouldn't come off!

Good point I hadnt considered.

It could be the plugs.

I will do a comparison. I do know the ELM one has a long neck.

Ta

[Cookiesouwest]

The Polo of Doom had some money spent on it today.

The rear wiper clears at the edge of the blade, but not in the middle, so chucked a bosch on it. 

The drivers seat has wear on the bolster.

I bought a fabric self adhesive patch from Amazon.

Cut to rough size

And stuck on. Not the greatest job ever, but if it sticks in the cold weather, it will at least stop it fraying anymore.

Ive no idea why I can happily motivate myself to 'improve' a 200 quid shitter, but struggle to work on the 2k Merc that desperately needs the parasitic drain identified.

Mrs Cookie reckons I have ADHD.

Who knows. But tomorrow is the last day I can investigate the Merc, as its due MOT next week.

Ive also been struggling to get motivated to buy SiCs Civic tourer. It would be the most expensive car ive ever bought in my life. I think my brain is running back to its safe place, hence the scrapper is getting love

 

[Snake Charmer]

Nice new bidet onthe Polo. 👍

[Cookiesouwest]

On the Merc today. Time is ticking. 

MOT due Friday. 

Got it open, bonnet up and hooked up the CRV.

Left it for 20mins to get some juice in it. Took out two of the fuses that control heated and power seats. As may be likley contenders for power drain. The pink one and top orange on the left.

 

Then attempted a start. No dice. One clunk. Nothing.

Car is getting juice. Radio has power, boot opens and boot cover retracts, so juice is getting to parts of the car.

Left for another 20 mins. Same result.

Gave it 10 more mins. Same result.

The as I was now very cold, ive retreated inside.

Im no auto electrician, but I suspect the main battery is very very dead?

Although electricity must be flowing through it, when on charge, or various systems would not work.

As I cant guarantee to get it running for its MOT, I will have to cancel the test.

Need a plan B.

[andyberg]

1 hour ago, Cookiesouwest said:

 

Need a plan B.

Honda Civic estate

[SiC]

23 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Mrs Cookie reckons I have ADHD.

I'm more surprised that you didn't already realise...!

(Given the amount of people chopping and changing cars on here, I'd almost certainly it's common place on here)

2 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Im no auto electrician, but I suspect the main battery is very very dead?

Yes, leave a lead acid battery to go flat and leave it flat is a very good way to kill it.

2 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Although electricity must be flowing through it, when on charge, or various systems would not work.

Being able to supply low current devices versus the high current needed to start a car is a big difference. The E320 is a big fat engine and will need a big fat amount of instant energy to get that thing turning over - especially with cold thick oil both in the engine and gearbox.

Did you buy a CTEK in the end? You're best hope for that battery is to put it in doors and stick it on charge for a good day. 

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

I'm more surprised that you didn't already realise...!

(Given the amount of people chopping and changing cars on here, I'd almost certainly it's common place on here)

Yes, leave a lead acid battery to go flat and leave it flat is a very good way to kill it.

Being able to supply low current devices versus the high current needed to start a car is a big difference. The E320 is a big fat engine and will need a big fat amount of instant energy to get that thing turning over - especially with cold thick oil both in the engine and gearbox.

Did you buy a CTEK in the end? You're best hope for that battery is to put it in doors and stick it on charge for a good day. 

Yes ive got the CTEK.

Its a gel stop / start battery, although I doubt if that makes a difference.

Will get battery out tomorrow and give it a charge.

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, andyberg said:

Honda Civic estate

Lol 3 in the queue for that, so not even joined the queue

 

[Surface Rust]

1 minute ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Lol 3 in the queue for that, so not even joined the queue

 

There's an even more bargainous hatch in the For Sale now.....

[SiC]

21 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Yes ive got the CTEK.

Its a gel stop / start battery, although I doubt if that makes a difference.

Will get battery out tomorrow and give it a charge.

How did it go?

If you have completely killed a battery, you're welcome to swap it for one I have here. They're ones I've changed out of my BMWs out of precaution. So not in the best of health but still healthy enough to start these 6cyl engines!

(Also not actually sure how far you are actually from me? I always think you're close but actually it's probably longer than I imagine?)

 

If a battery is good enough to get it started, at least it'll allow you to drive it to an MOT. Then if they have to jump it for the MOT and keep it running. 

[Cookiesouwest]

3 hours ago, SiC said:

How did it go?

If you have completely killed a battery, you're welcome to swap it for one I have here. They're ones I've changed out of my BMWs out of precaution. So not in the best of health but still healthy enough to start these 6cyl engines!

(Also not actually sure how far you are actually from me? I always think you're close but actually it's probably longer than I imagine?)

 

If a battery is good enough to get it started, at least it'll allow you to drive it to an MOT. Then if they have to jump it for the MOT and keep it running. 

Just finished work, so wont be getting the battery out tonight.

Hoping tomorrow.

Worse case is do it at weekend and delay the MOT. I think I will get away with it, if plod ever check cars in our road. Taxed and Insured, just parked up with no MOT.

Thanks for offer of battery. May have to rake you up on that, if the BFG main battery is knackered.

Im just shy of an hour away.

[andyberg]

I have a brand new battery I took of my Safrane. It’s sat in my shed, it may be a little down on power and may not be enough to crank that big engine. It’s a 027 if that’s any help. 🤷‍♂️

[Cookiesouwest]

44 minutes ago, andyberg said:

I have a brand new battery I took of my Safrane. It’s sat in my shed, it may be a little down on power and may not be enough to crank that big engine. It’s a 027 if that’s any help. 🤷‍♂️

It might be enough.

If I need to borrow it, I will shout.

[Cookiesouwest]

Poppys polo went for MOT today.

Slight whoops. But all easily sorted - although I dont know where its leaking oil at the mo.

Only 3k since its last clean mot.

Cars hey.