Project P38 EAS With Shenanigans

[Timewaster]

I've just read the whole thread. 

Wow. Impressed with the work you have done!

I've always been a bit love/hate with P38s. 

Very often they look shabby, down at heel and frankly, crap. 

In the wrong colour and wrong spec with a good coat of neglect they look awful. 

 

Then there is yours! 

 

Claybaring the wheels is a level of cleaning I have not reached since I was a 21yr old besotted with my 205Gti.

And I never had / needed your mechanical skills. 

Bravo. 

[Vince70]

You need special filler if your doing repairs on a P38 as normal filler doesn’t stick.

 

[Cooper1]

12 hours ago, burraston2006 said:

Got this last weekend to have a go at sorting the suspension compressor out:

The compressor worked but was so slow. It would take approx 10 miles to get to the ride height . I had the codes read the previous week which revealed no faults ( not bad for a 20yr old Rangie). The video looked straight forward ( it does not let you know that 20 years of the compressor heating and cooling causes all the bolts to become one with the housing -bustards!). 2 hours a lot of swearing, 3 emergency cigarette breaks and  1 snapped bolt and it was done. She now goes up and down faster than a whores knickers on a Friday night! Sorry no photos but I had my 75 yr old father 'assisting' . Defo recommend this kit.

Here's the instruction video:

 

I'm looking to do mine soon!!  

 

worth checking the airbags too  

 

C1

[Cooper1]

"crusty bits". 

The brake dust shields on this P38 has always been terminal, the rears were

removed when i bought her as they were rubbing on the disk and making one hell of a racket!! ? 

I knew the front ones weren't too far behind, so today when they started to do the same to the front disks i decided to remove them, this time in a less brutish manner!!

I just ripped the rears off!! 

First job is to remove the wheel, it is imperative that you open a door or the tailgate to disable the auto levelling feature of the EAS to prevent it leveling when you jack it up..  

The wheels nuts are 27mm!

Next issue was to remove the caliper and pads, these were in good nick in this case, 2x 12mm bolts secure the caliper to

the carrier. 

These  bolts are bi-hex!

next were the 19mm caliper carrier bolts, these were a ballache, and i couldn't get the leverage to loosen them off sooooooooo.. 

Had to get creative with the bottle jack!! a good few pumps saw them loosen off, i was surprised but it worked!  

The disk itself is secured to the hub with a pozi screw i used a manual impact to remove it.. 

These are notorious for stripping out or snapping off!! so be careful

And this is the reason they're coming off full of holes and doing f all to help the disks!

not a bad life, 19 years!

Fairly crusty! full of holes and do jack shit to help the car, even when they;'re in good nick. 

The shields are secured by 4 8mm bolts, they can be a pain in the nuts to remove, however in this case they cam stright out!!

weirdly!! 

once removed this is what I was left with a pile of scrap!!!

nowt much left of it now!!

I wound the old bolts back into the hub to protect the threads for future use, a good dollop of copper ease was used to ease removal in the future. 

Next up i used Jelonite gel to convert some surface rust on the hub, it was wire brushed prior to application. 

I wouldn't recommend it the stuff is utter crap, not a touch on Kurust or hydrate 80.

 

The carrier bolts were wire wheeled off and a coat of CG was applied to prevent siezing, torque figure is what you deem

tight enough LOL

 

next up put it all back together!!

 

throw the wheel on and torque the nuts to 80ft/lb or do them TIGHT!!

tidy all yer tools up etc etc  

 

 

 

And done!!   

 

C1

[Broadsword]

At this rate you are actually going to run out of things to do on this, not that I thought that was possible on a P38!

[Cooper1]

"crusty bits PT2" 

Power steering lines on the P38 route down from the pump to just below the radiator and then that is both the high and low pressure lines!

back upto the steering box, in my case they were a tad down at heel, as yer can see!

 

A quick wire brush showed they were in rather good nick under the surface rust, so a coat of Hydrate 80 was applied to halt the corrosion!

Ideally i'd give them a coat of paint, however like the rear crossmember I want to see if any rot comes back, and it can always grow under paint!!

 

And done!!

 

I did park on the grass and enjoy what was left of the view, from my split level tailgate  

 

More to come later!!  

[Cooper1]

3 minutes ago, Broadsword said:

At this rate you are actually going to run out of things to do on this, not that I thought that was possible on a P38!

It's never over with a Rover LOL  

 

C1

[Cooper1]

11 hours ago, Timewaster said:

I've just had the whole thread. 

Wow. Impressed with the work you have done!

I've always been a bit love/hate with P38s. 

Very often they look shabby, down at heel and frankly, crap. 

In the wrong colour and wrong spec with a good coat of neglect they look awful. 

 

Then there is yours! 

 

Claybaring the wheels is a level of cleaning I have not reached since I was a 21yr old besotted with my 205Gti.

And I never had / needed your mechanical skills. 

Bravo. 

Thank you very much!

It is a labour of love for sure, but i love it!!

C1

[Cooper1]

5 hours ago, Vince70 said:

You need special filler if your doing repairs on a P38 as normal filler doesn’t stick.

 

Funnily enough it came with a can of that in the boot LOL  

 

 

[Cooper1]

Tempted!

 ?

Spoiler

Spoiler

Red calipers on a P38!! what' y'all think? 

 

 

[Carlosfandango]

22 minutes ago, Cooper1 said:

Tempted!

 ?

  Hide contents

  Hide contents

Red calipers on a P38!! what' y'all think? 

 

 

Nope. 

 

CFD 

[Cooper1]

Chassis paintage hopefully next week for the P38..  

 

'tis time for some discovery workage though..  

The chassis on the Disco is a known to like to crust from the inside out, or outside in. ? 

knowing this i went looking! 

 

i found some! 

surface rot, but it's starting to eat into the metal..  

 

so i threw some rust converter on it ? ## 

Galv chassis is looking to be upon the horizon!!

Next us was a well known TD5 issue which is oil in the injector wiring harness, oil gets through the plug and seeps down to the ECU and ruins it!! 

so i pulled the plug and had a look 

Oh dear. 

common as dog shit however so i gave it a blow out with some contact cleaner.. 

That mess came out of the plug!! 

Removal of the loom entails taking the lid off, i was a tad apprehensive to do so, as most TD5's have ruined cam rollers and cams, and being diesel there is usually a load of black death in there too.. 

However 

 

both cam and rollers were in incredible nick, especially considering she has 190k!

The loom is a piece of pish to replace, just make sure you kink the wires near the injectors to stop the spring action on the loom itself.. 

Loom gone!

 

And back together. 

 

 

it is worth noting the cam cover gasket is a pain in the dick to put on, some use grease to hold it in place, withing not to fook around i rtv'd it to the cam cover. 

quite wiggly!

 

The Front cam seal was also on the list as it was hanging out the head!

A new shitpart one was sourced.

the removal is simple, just flick it out with a screwdriver, installation entails just pressing it in with yer fingers! 

lube "fnarr" the gasket before fitting for obvious reasons!

and you should be done!

 

stick the lid on and you should be ok.. 

 

Note the "should" 

 

in my case it still misfires and bellows blue smoke and tries to stall so its either ruined injector seals, or something else, it is ok if it idles for a while, however if you rev the shit out of it she drops a pot and smokes!! bastard. 

 

Fine here when first started. 

 

 

Not very happy after running for a while!!

 

 

bastard.. 

 

LOL 

 

C1

 

 

 

[Cooper1]

Tackled the t'other disk shield today. 

Twas an easy job, the caliper mounting bolts were alot less stubborn this time, only the aid of a hammer was needed!!  

Before treating it was quite crusty/dirty. 

The securing bolts came out no problem, so the shield was discarded and wire brushing and rust converting could take place! 

after this had dried i blew th area over with compressed air and topped off with some chassis black paint.. 

 

The caliper carrier was wire wheeled off and painted  

The paint used is a standard VHT silver.. 

The caliper was then painted and re attached  

The cat came and stopped play!! 

protesting i think!!  

wheels were washed off and put back on.. 

 

Job;s a good'un  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Carlosfandango]

Flippin’ fab! 

 

CFD 

[Cooper1]

"in tune" 

When you own  car you like the tendency to become in tune with it is very common. 

In my case i tend to notice little changes in engine behavour in this case there is a very slight chatter from one ofthe tappets on cold start. 

It only lasts for around 3 seconds, but it is there ? 

additives and snake oil are few and far between, so i tried some of this stuff. 

 

Anyones guess if it will work, i don't expect instant gratification! 

but i do halve my hopes up  

"'T'other disk PT2.. 

 

\the finished product! 

is surprisingly hard to see LOL 

 

Being Mid february the sun is staying up a tad longer than usual.. 

so i took some piccies.  

  

The shine on the bonnet is pretty good   

 

the upside of EAS is you can stance is YO!!

 

C1

 

 

[Cooper1]

I have another potential project in the making.. 

My grandfathers silver shadow 1  

 

 

 

 

it is full of filler and a right eyeful.. 

let me know what you all think.. 

I managed to get it going after 10 years of sitting, gotta love the l410 v8.. 

It kicked over instantly..  

..

tempted

 

this was her in 1997 a short while after she was bought. 

excuse the quality.. 

[Broadsword]

That Roller would be one hell of an undertaking, but very exciting to work on!

[Zelandeth]

Always a yes to seeing a Roller restored.

The question is obviously simply whether your pockets are deep enough...

[Cooper1]

46 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Always a yes to seeing a Roller restored.

The question is obviously simply whether your pockets are deep enough...

Umm money might be an issue, regarding bodywork, however mechanically i should be able to manage i hope! ? 

I have a workshop manual for it that is a good few hundred pages thick!!  

[Cooper1]

1 hour ago, Broadsword said:

That Roller would be one hell of an undertaking, but very exciting to work on!

An undertaking indeed!!  

 

Hate seeing old cars rot. mechanically she's pretty fit, weirdly!

 

her bug bare is bodywork..  

[Zelandeth]

Bodywork is just bodywork...there's just a lot of it!  They can and do rust in quite some exciting ways! 

The astronomical cost of the mechanical service items is what would scare me... especially on a car which has been sitting...so brakes and the self levelling suspension are likely to need attention.

[Cooper1]

1 minute ago, Zelandeth said:

Bodywork is just bodywork...there's just a lot of it!  They can and do rust in quite some exciting ways! 

The astronomical cost of the mechanical service items is what would scare me... especially on a car which has been sitting...so brakes and the self levelling suspension are likely to need attention.

I agree 100% 

mechanically all is there, just needs replacing  

The suspension will need re-doing luckily being a monocock you can drop the engine and associated bits out of the bottom of the car on the subframe, which is handy if you're doing extensive work!! 

 

Brakes and like you say suspension is probably the most complex parts of the car, however it should be good after a complete strip down, the good thing about these old SY shadows is almost everything has a rebuild kit! 

 

[Zelandeth]

16 minutes ago, Cooper1 said:

 

 The good thing about these old SY shadows is almost everything has a rebuild kit! 

 

So you'll only need one extra mortgage then rather than two!

[Cooper1]

Just now, Zelandeth said:

So you'll only need one extra mortgage then rather than two!

Yep!!  

 

Sell a kidney or two an I'll be golden LOL

[Cooper1]

"Discovery Shenanigans"  

 

As per update above the old TD5 was running like a bag of shit.. 

A new injector harness + cam seal and a few other bits didn't seem to do much, she did sound a bit better though!! ? 

 

After some scratching of head i noted the Check engine light can only bee illuminated by A- the TPS or B-the CPS.. 

I had my money on the crank sensor, so i went to the Euro of car parts and bought a new item and set about fitting it..  #  

The location on the automatic TD5 is around the top of the Bell housing, it is secured with a 8mm bolt, it should pop out! 

Mine was mank.. 

A new sensor - part number etc 

 

I gingerly started the mota after fitting the new sensor and she ran like shit, being a tad angry i prodded the loud pedal and kept it at full chat for around 15 seconds,, all the smoke and shit disappeard and she ran beautifully!! 

Result!!  

I lobbed £10 of derv in it when the fuel light came on, 40mi were put on her with relative ease, she feels a lot healthier now. 

much smoother at idle.. 

Mileage stands at over 184k 

One issue with the TD5 is a rising oil level from failed injector seals, i initially thought this was the issue, however it wasn't but still i wanted to be sure, 

Still looks alright!!

Threw the engine back together! 

Much better!

 

Next project is extended seat rails as i find the seats don't go back far enough! 

A new set of rubber matts, too as i have the passenger side mat in my side!  

 

 

C1

 

 

 

 

[Cooper1]

"Discovery shenanigans" 

 

Missing interior trim!! 

After carrying a rather unwieldy tool box that decided to shoot back and ruin my rear door pocket I finally came around to replacing it!   

the injury!! 

 

A new one was bought for a tenner off of the bay of E  

Removal is pretty simple

2 8mm bolts.  under the handle

pozi behind the handle

 

and you just pull the panel off, i'd recommend a trim removal tool!  

refit is the reverse of removal, i did squirt some grease on the lock and handle mechanism while there!! 

The after result i'm well happy with!!

 

 

"key issues" 

 

Next up was the issue with the key dragging in the ignition barrel which is annoying.. 

bought some of this graphite powder off of ebay. 

And gave the key a good coating, 

 

much betterer  

 

more to come]

 

C1

 

 

[stuboy]

still loving the P38 

[Carlosfandango]

The auld roller would scare the pants off me to be honest. Like you say, I reckon you have the skillz but holy Moly it’s a big undertaking. 

CFD 

[Cooper1]

Torrential downpour from the series of showers we seem to be having!!

And there is evidence of water ingress into the boot! 

Rather common on the D2.. 

A recognised fix is to feed some plump rubber pipe behind the seal to help puff it up!  

I've got to get me some rubber pipe, as i don't have any, weirdly!!

Put some Derv in her

just under 3.4  on £80 pffft!!   

a good few miles bought it down to 1/2!!  

She does around 22mpg.. 

?

 

 

[Cooper1]

"disco body shenanigans"  

 

More disco werk! 

The d2 is well known for chassis rot however it was believed the bodies were fairly strong, however the test of time has proved that quite a few are getting a fair chuk of rot in the body. 

so with that in mind i gave the rear body a splodge of waxoyl   

I also filled the sills with a mixture of oil and waxoyl   

 

 

Chassis repair and replacement i can tackle, however bodyshell work is a pain in the bollox and i want to prevent any issues! 

Also due to a lager induced moment of idiocy i painted my sump!!  

 

More to come Laterz!!