PhilA Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 This here was the easy bit. Getting the engine crane bolted in was a pig of a job. Managed it though. It starts up so that's good. Manifold isn't sealing. Still need to connect up and make the cooling system work and connect to the propshaft. Phil scdan4, Mally, BL Bloke and 11 others 14
PhilA Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 Little loud but it runs Phil BlankFrank, mat_the_cat, STUNO and 8 others 11
PhilA Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 The gearbox hasn't leaked yet, by the way. --Phil hairnet, RayMK, LightBulbFun and 1 other 3 1
PhilA Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 1 minute ago, somewhatfoolish said: New fanimold gaskets required? Yes, and the faces aren't totally flat any more. Apparently this is moderately common due to the thing being the length it is. I may put a straight edge to it, and possibly even a file. We'll see. I would prefer to get it machined but that may not be an option locally. Phil LightBulbFun 1
somewhatfoolish Posted October 4, 2019 Posted October 4, 2019 Sheet of glass, spraymount and wet and dry; Armstrong surface grinder. LightBulbFun, tooSavvy and PhilA 3
PhilA Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 Ignition switch and starter button now function. somewhatfoolish, vulgalour, paulplom and 4 others 7
Sir Snipes Posted October 5, 2019 Posted October 5, 2019 Plug the cigarette lighter in and you're done. Next!
LightBulbFun Posted October 5, 2019 Posted October 5, 2019 8 hours ago, PhilA said: Ignition switch and starter button now function. talk about "starts on the button"
PhilA Posted October 5, 2019 Author Posted October 5, 2019 3 hours ago, Snipes said: Plug the cigarette lighter in and you're done. Next! It is, it's to the right of the ignition key. Phil
PhilA Posted October 7, 2019 Author Posted October 7, 2019 *heave on bolt* *bolt finally begins to move* *tighten up again to clear threads* *head shears off* I hate manifolds scdan4, tooSavvy and Skizzer 3
PhilA Posted October 8, 2019 Author Posted October 8, 2019 I applied fire. This was not enough. Both damn bolts broke off so I drilled them out. Cleaned the threads up with a tap. Result, a threaded hole. Repeat. The exhaust manifold is much harder metal and proving difficult, I've had to drill one hole oversize so I'll have to drill the massive big holes through the intake out a size too. Hopefully this works. If not, I have had someone offer me a manifold... Phil Asimo, paulplom, scdan4 and 1 other 4
PhilA Posted October 8, 2019 Author Posted October 8, 2019 Trying to tap a thread in old, hard cast iron isn't fun. Phil
Heidel_Kakao Posted October 8, 2019 Posted October 8, 2019 Would helicoils not have been an option? You know what you are doing so I imagine there is a good reason. Actually you still have to have to tap a hole for helicoils anyway so ignore me lol. PhilA 1
PhilA Posted October 8, 2019 Author Posted October 8, 2019 I may try seeing if a helicoil will work- it would be nice to use the correct size bolt. --Phil
Mally Posted October 8, 2019 Posted October 8, 2019 You could possibly machine a stepped stud. If a stud in one hole would work?
PhilA Posted October 8, 2019 Author Posted October 8, 2019 That is also a valid alternative. It only has to seal the two pieces together, it's not really holding any great load. The main clamping force is where the things are held to the engine block.
PhilA Posted October 9, 2019 Author Posted October 9, 2019 Was working tapping the first hole, drilling the second. Decided on a change of pace after dinner so grabbed the manual for the alternator and took it to bits. The diode trio (the little orange bit) is bad. The rectifier pack is good, the capacitor good. Brushes are fine (held in their case with a piece of wire in that picture). Hopefully replacing that will remedy the problem. If not, the regulator pack may need replacement (white plastic piece). Phil LightBulbFun 1
tooSavvy Posted October 9, 2019 Posted October 9, 2019 18 hours ago, Mally said: You could possibly machine a stepped stud. If a stud in one hole would work?
PhilA Posted October 9, 2019 Author Posted October 9, 2019 The bolt through will work, I think. Also have a lead on a table sander so I may be able to get the manifold back to being flat again- there is a slight warp between the ends and the centre of the exhaust manifold so no matter what, it'll end up leaking if I don't get it at least a little more flat. --Phil
Mally Posted October 9, 2019 Posted October 9, 2019 33 minutes ago, tooSavvy said: Right idea, but they don't understand metric much in America. I loved working on planes, because imperial innit. Well was when I was there.
PhilA Posted October 9, 2019 Author Posted October 9, 2019 Even the new stuff is imperial because America has too much of a stranglehold on aviation- plus, if you fly around and land somewhere with a broken piece the last thing you want to be told is they can't fix it because it's got the wrong type of threads. --Phil
PhilA Posted October 11, 2019 Author Posted October 11, 2019 Needs a little more finessing but manifolds now bolt together. Now requires gaskets. Phil mat_the_cat, somewhatfoolish and LightBulbFun 3
somewhatfoolish Posted October 11, 2019 Posted October 11, 2019 On 10/9/2019 at 3:03 PM, PhilA said: Even the new stuff is imperial because America has too much of a stranglehold on aviation- plus, if you fly around and land somewhere with a broken piece the last thing you want to be told is they can't fix it because it's got the wrong type of threads. --Phil Boeing naturally, but do Airbus really use unified threads?
PhilA Posted October 12, 2019 Author Posted October 12, 2019 Depends on which part of it is made where.
PhilA Posted October 12, 2019 Author Posted October 12, 2019 billy_bunter, HairySteve, MorrisItalSLX and 7 others 10
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