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AS Communal MK4&5 Mondeo Thread


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Posted

I am shocked how cheap these are now. My dads 07 ghia with 125 k on the clock, timing belt/water pump and dampers sold for£920 on ebay. We got more for an 04 passat with higher miles.

Posted
17 hours ago, Bren said:

I am shocked how cheap these are now. My dads 07 ghia with 125 k on the clock, timing belt/water pump and dampers sold for£920 on ebay. We got more for an 04 passat with higher miles.

People assume they are shit and low specced. Not realising they drive better, have higher spec and don’t rot front wings and tailgates etc  out, eat ball joints etc like the Passat and co.

It means there’s some good cars out there for not a lot of money.

My dad’s 170K 2008 Titanium X hatch isn’t worth a grand, now. But I maintain it could not be replaced, for the money it would command.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 3/6/2020 at 9:49 PM, junkyarddog said:

Edge,Zetec,Ghia,Titanium,X,Sport.

I think that's all the versions.

Ah yes, the Edge. Haven’t seen one of those in a long time.

My TXS is due the timing belt, shortly. I can’t complain, the car never asks for anything.

Posted

Seeing quite a few of these now around the thousand quid mark but they’ve mostly done a trillion miles, which they’ll do no problem. Maybe in a year they’ll be a glut of them round the thousand quid mark, quite fancy one. I’ve looked for the 2.0 petrol but to no avail so it’ll be the 1.8TD or the 2.0. Hopefully the Mk2 I’ve got will last out for a bit longer! 

Posted
2 hours ago, sierraman said:

Seeing quite a few of these now around the thousand quid mark but they’ve mostly done a trillion miles, which they’ll do no problem. Maybe in a year they’ll be a glut of them round the thousand quid mark, quite fancy one. I’ve looked for the 2.0 petrol but to no avail so it’ll be the 1.8TD or the 2.0. Hopefully the Mk2 I’ve got will last out for a bit longer! 

An 1800 TDCi? Behave! 2.0 140 pre-facelift car all day.

Posted

From reading up the 1.8TD is a bit of a sluggard but it’s fairly bulletproof so long as the clutch and DMF are ok. Obviously a 2.0 140 is much better but it’d be whichever I could find in better nick. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Looking for one of these beasts again, seen a BASE Edge one local but it’s the 1.8TDCI, I’m aware it’s slower and a bit rougher than the 2.0 TDCI, but is it any more troublesome? The one I’m looking at had had a recent timing belt. 

Posted

Not as sharp or as exciting as my last 2.0 tdi Octavia... but the 2.0 tdci Mondeo is a handsome big brute and has proven to be a very sensible purchase some 16 months ago. 

20200425_013446.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted
On 4/24/2020 at 5:47 PM, sierraman said:

Bought one, a 2.0 140bhp. 

What age and spec? 

Posted
On 4/26/2020 at 7:29 AM, sierraman said:

09 plate Zetec in black

That'll be a Mk4a then. Does it have Bluetooth and if so is it A2DP? Remember that if it's an ex taxi then the torn rear carpet will be a giveaway. A Zetec should have enough toys to keep you happy but make sure the windows and seat height adjust work properly and if you get a chance then tighten up the bolts holding the seat runners up as they can work lose jamming the seats and it's a swine of a job to fix when they've jammed.  A Zetec should have climate control and Mondeo Air Con will chill the cabin nicely even with ridiculously low levels of refrigerant, any crappy AC performance can be fixed for free by removing the pollen filter from behind the glovebox which only requires some Torx sockets and 20 minutes of your time. Your car will have the early engine meaning a snapped cam belt will not be fatal only needing a new belt and a set of rockers. The DMF usually lasts the life of 1.5 clutches and replacing with a solid flywheel will adversely affect how it drives a lot more than on the 1.8 5 speed versions. Uneven front tyre wear is usually caused by bottom arm bushes, not the end of the world but groaning noises when you turn the wheel at a standstill will be the strut top mount bushes that cost more to replace than you'd think. DPF issues can be cured by either removing/cheating the ECU or by cooking the DPF by dropping the exhaust, disconnecting the turbo and making it glow cherry red. Non functioning cruise control is often caused by a duff clutch switch, I had to buy a few over the years! The good news is that it's an easy replacement. Throw away the Ford wheelbrace ASAP as it splits after a few uses and carry a crack bar instead. On the subject of lug nuts, as your Zetec will have alloys there's a fair chance a couple of chrome wheel nut caps will have fallen off so carry the right sockets to remove them with your crack bar. The electrics are generally OK with the exception of the headlights, they cook the wiring and connectors to the bulbs and the only fix is to replace the whole lamp assembly, not difficult but they do eat bulbs, I used to buy at least one a week until I bought new headlamps. A weak battery can throw the body control module into shit fit mode so make sure it's nicely charged although if you need to replace the battery you don't have to tell the ECU. Frequent opening and closing of the drivers door can wear out the wiring in the door, the first you'll know about it is when the window will only open and close when the door is closed. Not a tricky fix but Ford used a few different in door wiring looms throughout the life of the Mk4 and not all are interchangeable. Watch when you're bumping the front wheel onto high kerbs, the arch liner has a flap on the leading edge which can get pushed against the wheel dragging it off!  The central locking on one rear door on one of mine failed although that's probably down to taxi abuse. 

 

All in all, well bought and may I see some pics?

  • Like 6
Posted

I know the above post makes it look like I'm slagging them off and they're bad news but nothing could be further from the truth! My experiences of them are based on five years of hard abuse that yours will never have to endure. 

In my experience the Mk4a 2.0 diesel is the pick of the bunch, much better to drive than the 1.8 common railed Orion engined version and although a fair bit coarser than the 2.0 diesel fitted to the Mk4b they're a hell of a lot less prone to sensor, DPF and turbo pipe problems.

Mind you, I've only had about eight of them!

  • Like 2
Posted

It’s only done 94k so hopefully the DmF should be ok for a while yet. The steering wheel controls don’t work but I don’t use the cruise much anyway so it’s no hardship. A thorough service is the first job. 

I’ve heard the fuel filter is an absolute bastard to bleed anyone tackled one? 

Posted
3 minutes ago, sierraman said:

It’s only done 94k so hopefully the DmF should be ok for a while yet. The steering wheel controls don’t work but I don’t use the cruise much anyway so it’s no hardship. A thorough service is the first job. 

I’ve heard the fuel filter is an absolute bastard to bleed anyone tackled one? 

Mine wasn't a problem after a filter change. 

Do any of your steering wheel buttons work???

 

Posted

Well bought sir :-)

Enjoying mine still.

 

Just the bloody headlights on mine. The self levelers keep crapping out and putting them on the lowest setting. Been trying to fox it over the last couple of weeks.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, warren t claim said:

Mine wasn't a problem after a filter change. 

Do any of your steering wheel buttons work???

 

Yes the ‘OK’ button works but that’s it

Posted
10 hours ago, warren t claim said:

That'll be a Mk4a then. Does it have Bluetooth and if so is it A2DP? Remember that if it's an ex taxi then the torn rear carpet will be a giveaway. A Zetec should have enough toys to keep you happy but make sure the windows and seat height adjust work properly and if you get a chance then tighten up the bolts holding the seat runners up as they can work lose jamming the seats and it's a swine of a job to fix when they've jammed.  A Zetec should have climate control and Mondeo Air Con will chill the cabin nicely even with ridiculously low levels of refrigerant, any crappy AC performance can be fixed for free by removing the pollen filter from behind the glovebox which only requires some Torx sockets and 20 minutes of your time. Your car will have the early engine meaning a snapped cam belt will not be fatal only needing a new belt and a set of rockers. The DMF usually lasts the life of 1.5 clutches and replacing with a solid flywheel will adversely affect how it drives a lot more than on the 1.8 5 speed versions. Uneven front tyre wear is usually caused by bottom arm bushes, not the end of the world but groaning noises when you turn the wheel at a standstill will be the strut top mount bushes that cost more to replace than you'd think. DPF issues can be cured by either removing/cheating the ECU or by cooking the DPF by dropping the exhaust, disconnecting the turbo and making it glow cherry red. Non functioning cruise control is often caused by a duff clutch switch, I had to buy a few over the years! The good news is that it's an easy replacement. Throw away the Ford wheelbrace ASAP as it splits after a few uses and carry a crack bar instead. On the subject of lug nuts, as your Zetec will have alloys there's a fair chance a couple of chrome wheel nut caps will have fallen off so carry the right sockets to remove them with your crack bar. The electrics are generally OK with the exception of the headlights, they cook the wiring and connectors to the bulbs and the only fix is to replace the whole lamp assembly, not difficult but they do eat bulbs, I used to buy at least one a week until I bought new headlamps. A weak battery can throw the body control module into shit fit mode so make sure it's nicely charged although if you need to replace the battery you don't have to tell the ECU. Frequent opening and closing of the drivers door can wear out the wiring in the door, the first you'll know about it is when the window will only open and close when the door is closed. Not a tricky fix but Ford used a few different in door wiring looms throughout the life of the Mk4 and not all are interchangeable. Watch when you're bumping the front wheel onto high kerbs, the arch liner has a flap on the leading edge which can get pushed against the wheel dragging it off!  The central locking on one rear door on one of mine failed although that's probably down to taxi abuse. 

 

All in all, well bought and may I see some pics?

I use to have an 18mm handy for those Ford wheel studs missing their caps. FFS, why fit an 18mm with a 1mm cap? Did they forget how to make 19mms? 

  • Like 2
Posted

My PAS fluid looks mucky so going to swap the fluid, can’t be arsed with draining all the fluid out from the pipe work so I’m going to syphon what’s in the reservoir out, replace and do this a few times and eventually I should get clean fluid. 

Posted
On 4/27/2020 at 8:57 PM, warren t claim said:

Mine wasn't a problem after a filter change. 

Do any of your steering wheel buttons work???

 

So... the cruise and the radio volume works but the other side the trip computer gubbins doesn’t work which I’m not unduly bothered about. Ordered some Oil and a Bosch filter to swap the oil, gave it a good blast up the motorway at the weekend, in a low gear hopefully that’ll keep the DPF clear. How often will it regen the DPF and will it give me some heads up it wants doing? 

Posted
1 minute ago, sierraman said:

So... the cruise and the radio volume works but the other side the trip computer gubbins doesn’t work which I’m not unduly bothered about. Ordered some Oil and a Bosch filter to swap the oil, gave it a good blast up the motorway at the weekend, in a low gear hopefully that’ll keep the DPF clear. How often will it regen the DPF and will it give me some heads up it wants doing? 

I "cooked" my DPF on the 2.0 57 plate I owned to clean it as following factory DPF cleaning instructions didn't help. Mine absolutely hated Sainsbury's diesel and showed its disgust by throwing up a DPF fault as well as being down on power and economy. In taxi useage (which is no help to you but I thought I'd mention it anyway) the 07-10 2.0 diesel was more prone to DPF naughtyness during the hot summer months which according to my mechanic was caused by lots of idling outside pubs. Mine suffered less than most because once a week during a quiet night shift I'd run it up to the limiter in the first 5 gears and treat it to a couple of miles flat out at 128 mph. Obviously at Bruntingthorpe and not between junction 4 and 5 on the M53.

Posted
23 hours ago, sierraman said:

So... the cruise and the radio volume works but the other side the trip computer gubbins doesn’t work which I’m not unduly bothered about. Ordered some Oil and a Bosch filter to swap the oil, gave it a good blast up the motorway at the weekend, in a low gear hopefully that’ll keep the DPF clear. How often will it regen the DPF and will it give me some heads up it wants doing? 

Shite behind the steering wheel buttons is probably why it won’t work. Has yours got Convers? 
None of them tell you from the factory when they are regenning the DPF. My 4.5 has Convers mods and one of those is to tell you about the DPF. You can also wire an LED into the ECU, at least on mk4.5 cars.

You can only visually see the twin exhaust cars regenning IME.

I blasted the DPF on my mk4 out with the pressure washer. So if you need to, you can with no ill effects.

Posted

Well I did 80 in 4th for about 20 miles on Sunday and it seems a lot better, doing more to the gallon and is a bit quicker. If that’s what it takes then that’s fine. Not unduly bothered about the trip computer working but I’ve got some oil and a filter on its way, a genuine Fuel filter and air filter coming as well. Fuel filter looks like a bit of a twat to do. Thinking I’d best get a primer bulb and some 12mm fuel pipe and draw it through from the return fuel line in the engine bay? 

Posted

I've messaged about a hilti red mk4.5 n schpock for a cheap shopping trolley... I fucked up really selling the wife's civic, as we used to chuck everything in there- Her having a tt cab and me having a BMW coupe its painful.

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, sierraman said:

Well I did 80 in 4th for about 20 miles on Sunday and it seems a lot better, doing more to the gallon and is a bit quicker. If that’s what it takes then that’s fine. Not unduly bothered about the trip computer working but I’ve got some oil and a filter on its way, a genuine Fuel filter and air filter coming as well. Fuel filter looks like a bit of a twat to do. Thinking I’d best get a primer bulb and some 12mm fuel pipe and draw it through from the return fuel line in the engine bay? 

Aye, you will need to draw it through.

Posted
19 hours ago, jamiechod said:

I've messaged about a hilti red mk4.5 n schpock for a cheap shopping trolley... I fucked up really selling the wife's civic, as we used to chuck everything in there- Her having a tt cab and me having a BMW coupe its painful.

Hilti red or a genuine Hilti?

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