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Wobstang II


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Posted

yes read the handbook mine is the same supposed to be handbrake plus if you have a loss of hydraulic pressure. Not sure why it doesnt come on with the Handbrake though?must be a switch on or near the handbrake I guess thats gone faulty?

Normally there'll be a switch under the lever that puts the BRAKE warning bulb wire that goes to it to ground; these buttons get full of sticky soda, dust, lint and (given the location) quarters*.

 

Phil

 

*Can't be 20p pieces, can it?

Posted

Can the plastic wall be removed? I would think that's quite a useful feature to have.

 

Phil

Posted

Interesting. I was looking at the lights there, I presume there's a vacuum operated switch somewhere that brings on the "LOW FUEL ECONOMY" light?

Guest Hooli
Posted

Interesting. I was looking at the lights there, I presume there's a vacuum operated switch somewhere that brings on the "LOW FUEL ECONOMY" light?

 

Comes on when the engine starts surely?

  • Like 3
Guest Hooli
Posted

I'd just take the old ones out, pop to your local bearing shop & say 'more of these please' they'll measure them up & produce replacements that are normally better quality & cheaper than ones you could buy online.

  • Like 2
Posted

zovCipF.jpg

 

qAbLQlL.jpg

Hatchback, but the pattern could be adapted :-)

(Probably best concentrate on the real one for now).

  • Like 2
Posted

Would recommend mini-cardboard-shitestang construction.

 

df7e37c0d65f892af1989eea9d63345d.jpg

 

Pink fluffy dice are optional.

 

576b518ba81d1f59b88ca3e334918364.jpg

 

Stickerage is a must though.

Guest Hooli
Posted

White spirit or thinners will probably dissolve underseal.

Guest Hooli
Posted

I'd be surprised if much damaged the chrome tbh.

Posted

Gently prise the two parts of trim apart while undoing the screws. Or failing that try to gently prise the screw head away from the trim/retainer clips while undoing the screws.

I’ve had loads like that and it usually works one of these two ways.

 

Emphasis on gently though! Don’t want to mark or damage any trim!

  • Like 2
Guest Hooli
Posted

That whut Dan said. You can check if the clips are spinning as you turn the screws too, they often get put back wrong so they do. If so just hold them with pliers or similar.

  • Like 2
Posted

Pair of small wire cutters under the head of the screw, gently "bite" in as you turn the screw. Likely the thread had been chewed up and it's spinning in a groove. The screw head should begin to ride up the cutters and then should undo.

 

Phil

  • Like 2
Posted

Yeah, giving the screw a bit of assistance with some "lift" with the cutters as you turn can get it to jump back onto a thread and back out.

 

Also if the screw is the wrong pitch for the clip it'll shred the threads on the screw and then the screw will sit on the skew.

 

Phil

Guest Hooli
Posted

Mole grips on the screws & pull down as you twist?

 

I'd be getting the dremel out & lopping their heads off neatly by now, but I don't think you've got one of them?

  • Like 2
Guest Hooli
Posted

Depends if they turn when you try to drill them or not.

Posted

Get a knife under that central tongue of the clip and turn the screw?

 

Phil

Posted

I would try pushing down on the pointy end of the screw (with a block of wood or similar) whilst undoing it. The downwards pressure should* help the screw thread bite and come out.

  • Like 3
Posted

gearwrench-combination-wrenches-9708-64_

 

These are good for bolts like that. Start it off with your fingers, then wind it in on the ratchet.

 

Phil

  • Like 4
Posted

you can work with metric 13mm = 1/2 more or less. you wont be doing these upto 60ft lb so I would go for a set of metrics and use the nearest size. 

 

happy dayz

Posted

Yup. Down tools, walk away from it and forget the frustration for a day.

 

That's progress though!

 

It might just be getting hung up on with some clips- think of how it's made to be put together. Might need a lift upward to get it to pull out?

 

Phil

Posted

liked for camels back etc.

 

for wiper spindle. gah dunno. maybe lots of heat or a big hammer.

 

have you got the wiper arm off?

Posted

Why is it not legit?

 

It's a CB that conforms to most of the UK spec.

 

It's just An Old Car Radio. You worry too much. I forget if the channels differ wildly in their spacing for the UK, but it's in the same band so retuning the transmitter wouldn't be too hard if it is.

 

Next up, borrow or buy an SWR meter else you'll burn up the front end amplifier broadcasting from a badly tuned antenna.

 

Breaker breaker one niner, radio check!

 

Phil

 

 

Edit: The CB tuning looks to be infinitely variable (which isn't allowed even here) with indication of which channel you're closest to.. you'll be fine with that, in that case.

Guest Hooli
Posted

you can work with metric 13mm = 1/2 more or less. you wont be doing these upto 60ft lb so I would go for a set of metrics and use the nearest size.

 

happy dayz

7/16th -11mm

9/16th - 14mm

 

Comes in handy at times to know how to mix them as a size slightly too small can free a rounded fastener.

Posted

7/16th -11mm

9/16th - 14mm

 

Comes in handy at times to know how to mix them as a size slightly too small can free a rounded fastener.

 

11/16 - 17mm

3/4    - 19mm

7/8   - 22mm

   ish

  • Like 2
Posted

you can work with metric 13mm = 1/2 more or less. you wont be doing these upto 60ft lb so I would go for a set of metrics and use the nearest size. 

 

happy dayz

  • Like 2
Posted

I'd buy a set of Gearwrench from the states, will likely still be cheaper than a set here even with the postage. I was lookin at some Ridgid kit on ebay.com, half the price it is here.

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