Wobstang II

[Guest Hooli]

Must admit Im a little worried about the shite one as he appears to be getting a little too hot

 

Not sure if its the weather/humidity or I have an issue?

 

Gauge pack has been replaced with a used one,radiator and cooling system was only flushed a week ago.

 

Do I have a faulty guage,has debris ended up where it shouldnt be or is it just old car no air flow stuck in traffic or idle parked in humid weather?

 

Cant help but wonder if I need an extra fan as it only has the flywheel standard one......................

 

 

 

 

 

Engine driven fan with a viscous coupling? if so when the car is nice & hot try turning the fan by hand, it shouldn't turn but it will turn cold.

 

If it turns then it's not working, the normal fix* is drill a hole through the whole thing & bolt it together so it always turns.

 

Nice repair on the stalk btw, using a coke can makes it proper redneck rather than a euro bodge.

[Dave_Q]

If you're concerned about the temperature you could always get one on these things.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Benetech-GM300-Non-Contact-Infrared-Digital-Thermometer/dp/B007NVYWUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529095461&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=infrared+thermometer

 

It a thermometer you can point at the thermostat housing etc, to see what the actual temperature is.

 

Also handy for checking if a rad is hot all the way through without burning your hand, determining which cylinder has a cold exhaust pipe and therefore isn't running, etc.

 

If you're not confident in the accuracy of the gauges a direct measurement will help.

[Guest Hooli]

If you're concerned about the temperature you could always get one on these things.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Benetech-GM300-Non-Contact-Infrared-Digital-Thermometer/dp/B007NVYWUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529095461&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=infrared+thermometer

 

It a thermometer you can point at the thermostat housing etc, to see what the actual temperature is.

 

Also handy for checking if a rad is hot all the way through without burning your hand, determining which cylinder has a cold exhaust pipe and therefore isn't running, etc.

 

If you're not confident in the accuracy of the gauges a direct measurement will help.

 

 

That's a good thought. It could be a dodgy/wrong temp sensor in the lump.

[danthecapriman]

If it’s metal it can be soldered. You’d likely need a plumbers blow torch and solder though as an iron won’t get hot enough!

[danthecapriman]

Hoping somebody might say that

Think I know somebody who can sort it

Definately a metal tank

Clean off the paint and corrosion and give it a dab of that etch stuff they use to prep the surfaces then gently heat it up and apply the solder. Should be doable or even blag a plumber to do it for you!

[Guest Hooli]

I'd say that totally depends on access.

[vulgalour]

Ghosty and I recommend you view this

 

http://autoshite.com/topic/32129-for-sale-4-ford-slot-alloys-with-tyres-%C2%A3150-wigan/

[danthecapriman]

Do you reckon its a rad out job or could it be done in situ if enough cooland was drained?

What Hooli said.

 

Personally I’d remove the rad. Your guaranteed the best access then and you can be as sure as you can be it’ll be a good fix.

If you leave it in the car and do it you might run the risk of damaging other things. Like melting wiring for instance!!

[Guest Hooli]

I'd take it out too if I was at all unsure on doing it insitu. Last thing you want is to miss a pinhole as you struggled to reach & have to take it out & do it again anyway.

[Mally]

You need a fine blow torch, flux, emery and solder, If you haven't already got these it may be as cheap to take it to a rad repairer who will pressure test it as well.

I do my own now, but used to get charged £15 to £20.

[eddyramrod]

WHAT???????  Jo, don't go!  You and Shitestang are the very spirit of Autoshite!

[Andyrew]

Jo, there's bigger things to worry about.

You'll be fine they will be fine.

 

No one cares or picks a side, this isn't school. This places is for shite cars.

 

Now get back here and get some pics of that shitty mustang up. So most of us can feel better about not fixing our own shite.

 

I've written a to do list for you.

 

* Don't worry

* fix the bare minimum on mustang

* mot

* underwhelming one wheel burn out

* win at life

* wait ten mins

* fix mustang again

* repeat last three over and over

[danthecapriman]

Please don’t go Jo.

 

There’s a few people on here I don’t particularly get on with for whatever reasons but you don’t have to ‘chat’ with them. I just ignore the idiots but you could just use the ignore member function if you feel it’s that bad. There’s lots of people on here (me included) who love reading your threads and do like talking to you!

[spartacus]

Yeah, life's too short. You'll wonder what it was all about next week. Get back here!

[Mally]

It's nothing that, providing the rad comes off easy.

Even I could do it. I'd probably drain and try to do it on the car first if it was me.

When you switch off engine, water stops circulating, water in cyl head becomes very hot and rushes to top of rad, more pressure equals more leak.

[danthecapriman]

That should be fixable pretty easily. It must only be a tiny pin hole in it. A bit of solder and that’ll be fine. Chemical metal might even fix that.

[Mally]

I almost wrote that  dan, but I have been accused of bodging in the past

[PhilA]

Like Mally said, that's normal behavior. Also why in the movies you see the car at the end go FOOMP into a cloud of steam-that's what happens in a bad overheat situation.

 

In theory with a header tank off a pressure cap on the radiator the water burps out and is deposited, then once it cold it draws it back in again.

 

Brass solders well, still would recommend it being pulled out and pressure tested. It came from a hot climate and brass does work harden with age. Would be a shame to fix that and find another weak spot for it to leak by a week later.

 

Phil

[danthecapriman]

My radiator in the Mercury needed stripping and cleaning. It wasn’t blocked solid but the flow was significantly reduced! Then again there was over 40 years or gunk and silt in the system so not entirely unexpected. I had mine recored with the original brass tanks cleaned and reused in the end.

 

If your taking the heater box out then I’d say at least get the matrix pressure tested and cleaned out. Maybe replace it regardless if you have the dosh.

I’m doing this now on the Capri. Old one seemed ok on removal and inspection but since everything is in bits I’ve replaced it regardless. £60 for a new all metal replacement so why not.

[DodgeRover]

Are you sure it's getting hot and it's not just a miss match between the sensor on the engine and the gauge? US states get hotter than here (well some do) so I can't imagine our current temperatures should provide any challenge to the cooling system?

[danthecapriman]

Bloody nice job with that switch! It’s a right bargain, just by thinking outside the box.

[PhilA]

That's not random, that's Ford's standard fitment Squeaks and Rattles kit.

 

Phil

[Guest Hooli]

This is normally the best place to look for things like that http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/

[Guest Hooli]

They look a bit like piggy back spade connectors folded flat to me, not sure on sizes though.

[Guest Hooli]

Would these not do it?

 

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/430/male-blade-with-latch

[Guest Hooli]

Ahh well, it's hard to judge from pics on a screen.

[Guest Hooli]

Solder some longer wires on one if you go that way. Bit of heat shrink and it'll be all good.

[OwdChina]

^^^^^wot he said

[JeeExEll]

Some pics of a silver one here Jo, same wheels as yours too, but has half vinyl roof.

A 1975 302 in Ghia flavour.

 

↓ ↓ clicklink

https://www.cruisinclassicsinc.com/1975-ford-mustang-ii-ii-ghia-c-121.htm#photos

 

 

Wonder why it was advertised at such a ridiculously low price???

Now "sold sold sold". (Maybe used as bait to get buyers to look at other stock for sale??).

Nice pics for reference tho, and loads of them.

Original 'Rally' wheels look great detailed, really period. Magnum rostyle type wheels on 1969 Dodge Chargers have the same effect.

 

Edit - you may like to save some of the pics while they are available, the ad could get pulled at any time. Really useful for zooming in on details.

[danthecapriman]

You have to with the less popular more obscure cars but iyts a great feeling when you realise you know a way around the parts supply issue

Its like the little door lock snips on top of the door panels and the window winder knobs and exterior door handles non of the mustang places sell them they are unique to the Mustang II or are they?

Well Unique to the II on the Mustang line up but all three Items actually appeared on the F100 and Bronco in 79

And theres great spares back up for those

Theres four things different about that stalk to the original.

Mounting is different but better than the original and far stronger

Collar between switch end and metal tube was Chrome on the original its black on this one bit i think it looks better

Wrong plug yet same colour wires wired the same

And the wire guide has an extra step in it because it was for a tilting column car,it wont fit inside the column with it on bit its only plastic so can be cut off

But hey it was a third of the cost of one in a mustang box! All Hail the Granada USA

Good old Ford parts interchangeability! Saved my ass a few times!

For the record, I’d definitely have a US Ford Granada, or the two upmarket versions, the Mercury Monarch and Lincoln Versailles!

 

Oh, and I think you should get it painted Miami blue!!