Wobstang II

[Jim Bell]

I cant help at all but Im enjoying the thread. That carb looks like it wants to do a burnout.

[JeeExEll]

Morning Jo.

 

Sounds like you're quite confident it goes to the suppressor.

 

So, - (with the battery disconnected!),

 

cut the wire nearer the suppressor (not too close, you may need to connect a new wire on here, make things easy for yourself, so long as you know the wire is not burnt),

and put the multimeter (on Ohms resistance setting) between the bared cut end and any point you can get to where it's spliced into yellow.

A low or zero Ohms reading will confirm it's the burnt wire (hopefully).

 

Do this and see what you get . . . .

 

Scenario 1 - It is the same wire.

Cut the fucker back at the other end, Make the end still connected into the loom safe - fold and tape well, or deadend connector it or whatever.

 

Scenario 2 - hopefully not necessary . . . .

[JeeExEll]

Even better.

Unplug at suppressor and multimeter it as I've described. Cut it also back near where it's spliced into the loom, measure resistance end-to-end. Leave enough wire at the loom to join a replacement wire onto.

 

Presumably zero /-ish Ohms end-to-end. Try it to find out.

Note, "1" on the multimeter, which it shows most of the time on resistance setting, doesn't mean "one Ohm".

 

Get yo lazy ass out there. It's not going to fix itself.

Yesterday you were rewarded by unexpectedly finding you had a newish 600cfm 4-barrel carb fitted. See what today brings.

 

[JeeExEll]

Or,

on voltage setting, measure volts to a good earth at the open suppressor-connector, (measure with ignition on). Looking to confirm 12 or 13V, exact figure not important.

 

Cut the burnt wire back near the loom, somewhere easy to work but eliminating all of the grotty wire, then measure for volts at suppressor end of wire again (ignition on).

Should hopefully now be zero volts.

 

Connector at the suppressor does make things easier for you.

[JeeExEll]

Go Jo

 

[vulgalour]

That looks promising for an easy-ish fix.

[vulgalour]

That fat yellow wire looks more like rodent damage than melted in the photo.  Perhaps it looks different in person?  If it's just a nibbled casing you should be able to wrap it individually to protect it.

[richardthestag]

whs ^^ get a toothbrush on that yellow wire, does it look nibbled. easy fix. check for no more nibbles in the vicinity

[3VOM]

  On 13/04/2018 at 16:01, Joloke said:

And the Wiper Motor too

 

Which aint working either

 

Seems to have a Contact Breaker for the Wipers Contained in a Glass Fuse hope you can still get them?

 

 

Are you sure that's not just a blown fuse of largish amperage?

[JeeExEll]

Nothing to add right at the minute Jo but that Novita 552 thing googles out as a flasher unit.

A CB for the wipers is a new one to me but we can find out more. Can't think what CB means. Maybe it means a feed to a relay which switches the wipers. Will check it out.

(Check that wiper fuse tomorrow or whenever you're at the car next. It's just a standard glass fuse).

 

What's state of play with that burny wire?

[JeeExEll]

To be continued.

 

[PhilA]

It may be in the loom somewhere- bimetallic overheat shut off- kills current to the wipers if they get jammed (eg ice or heavy snow).

 

My headlights have a similar device and it was crap and broken. New one was $3, mine is in a hanging plug randomly in the loom near the fuse box.

 

Phil

[bezzabsa]

Looking good..Just remember when this was built, the yanks quality control was about the same as Longbridge on any given day!!

 

still its lasted this long, so was probably cherished somewhere in its life!!

 

 

ps vid of it running plzzz

[JeeExEll]

^ Check 1st April posts for idling v8-vids.

[vulgalour]

That's looking more and more good on the wiring front.  Is it a plastic nose cone on these?

[PhilA]

My car has moderately flexible plastic outer numbers with a big yellow foam inside piece, which is bonded onto the bumper irons.

 

Probably similar construction on yours, the whole federal crash regulation nonsense kicking in.

 

Don't see many GE car headlights, Sylvania a lot of so that makes sense.

 

Continuity on wiring is good figures. Would suggest what has previously been suggested and get fitted a maxi-fuse holder. Modern parts and the bits that are designed to get hot and burn up aren't in the vicinity of any other wiring, are contained so there's no fire from burning plastic etc.

 

Phil

[Guest Hooli]

Even without the suppressor the radio will work, all they do is get rid of alternator whine through the speakers. They used to be pennies to buy in car spares places (they are all the same) dunno if they are quite as easy to find these days.

[PhilA]

  On 15/04/2018 at 13:19, Hooli said:

Even without the suppressor the radio will work, all they do is get rid of alternator whine through the speakers. They used to be pennies to buy in car spares places (they are all the same) dunno if they are quite as easy to find these days.

This

[DodgeRover]

Extra fuses are rarely a cause for concern, better to have one and it blow than melt the wiring without one.

[PhilA]

  On 15/04/2018 at 15:17, Joloke said:

Just trying to work out if it needs a fusible link at all? there are two Diagrams,the one here and the one in my Haynes Digest this one says it has a Fusible link the one in Haynes says no.................................

The Diagram here says my burnt wire goes from the Batt Terminal on Alternator to the Wire Splice,whereas the diagram (below) from HBOL shows Black wire from Batt Terminal to Wire Splice and and the burnt wire from Splice to Regulator then out to suppressor

Sorry if im being thick here but is the Yellow/White Dot wire an input or output to or from the Regulator?

Beginning to think the Fusible Link/Suppressor being were that terminates to ground is not the reason it lit up?

Its been overloaded but can anybody looking at the daigrams guess why it may of?

Belt and braces. It's your pride* and joy*, don't let it become a bonfire for the sake of a couple of quid of fuses.

 

Phil

[Dave_Q]

I really wouldn't panic about the new MOT regs, I don't think it makes much difference to you?

 

If it was me I would do the minimum to get it running, chuck it in for test and get a list to work through.

 

You will at least get a mojo boost from driving it down to the garage, to/from an MOT is fine while insured on the VIN even of you have to do it 2 or 3 times.

[JeeExEll]

Aah, sounds like Monday blues Jo.

 

Seatbelts - bolt them in and try them. If they lock up too much / or don't lock try tilting the reel slightly then retightening. Bit of trial & error. Have had Fords before which would lock up the belts early if you were on a steep slope downwards and had to lean forward with the belt on. I think the angle the reel sits at is quite important for it to work properly.

 

Burnt thin yellow wire - cut it off and throw it away, make the good end safe for now. Can see to suppressor later (I think it's just the radio suppressor wire isn't it ??). Possible very low resistance to earth through a faulty suppressor?

The slightly damaged insulation on the thicker yellow wire can be taped. No point in cutting an otherwise good cable then having to tape 2 joints. Separate any other damaged bits you find til autospark can check it out.

 

Plenty to do in the meantime.

[danthecapriman]

What they said really.

I wouldn’t worry too much about the new MOT regs, most of it applies to cars way newer than this so don’t worry and don’t put extra pressure on yourself over it. Just do what you know needs doing then get it tested. If it fails then drive home (the long way...!) and fix the fail points then take it back again.

 

Your tyre, or should I say tire, situation sounds like a bit of a dodged bullet to me. They sounded like a bit of a potential hazard if the rubber beads were that bad. Good new rubber is always a good thing!

 

I bet a Pinto engined Mustang was a massive anti climax too!! God only knows how slow they must have been! Not exactly what you’d expect from a Mustang.

[JeeExEll]

^ Absolutely. Replacing the tyres was to be expected anyway for safety and at least they'll be new from 'day 1'.

Progress.

 

Good excuse to maybe rub down and repaint those rostyles too.

(In-expensive quick Mojo boost, therapeutic too).

[They_all_do_that_sir]

As has been said fresh rubber is a good thing, its one less thing to worry about.

 

Seatbelts, if the mechanic doesn't reckon it needs any I'd probably leave them off to worry over at my leisure.

 

If you can't get an auto spark out for a few days forget about the electrics and worry about other things.

 

There's a few basic MOT checks you can do In the meantime, check condition of brake lines, brake flexis etc. Minor stuff but worth ticking off the list.

 

Almost everything you've struggled with so far has been due to consumables / service items even the fuses.

 

New tyres will visually lift it, they always do and if you are struggling just look at that carb

 

Sent from my F3211 using Tapatalk

[danthecapriman]

Ignore that arrogant know-it-all bell end of the other place. We could all easily sit in our armchair criticising others like that. Piss on him!

Carry on regardless, learn by doing and all that, then get the car you’ve always wanted out of it.

[Guest Hooli]

Bellend has a point in comments about not taking on more than you can chew, but it doesn't look like you have. I've not seen anything in this thread to suggest the shitestang needs more than general maintenance, it just needs a lot of it at once due to lower standards in yankyshire.

 

Like you say you've gotta learn somehow & a solid car that just needs sorting is ideal for that so you carry on Jo.

[Guest Hooli]

Seems like your doing a decent job on it from here, you've already got the most important skill - to know when to stop & research things before making it worse.

 

You'll get there. Any chance of SS making shitefest?

[Guest Hooli]

1986, all shitefests after that were shit!

[junkyarddog]

Re the seatbelts aren't American cars different in how they operate?

 

All cars nowadays just lock when you pull them quickly,whereas septic stuff didn't as the mechanism works on a pendulum,So will only lock up under deceleration?

 

Maybe I'm talking bollocks but do remember this Detail from somewhere.