Project 1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - After nearly 7yrs, The End (for me)

[SiC]

Looks like the 'box and diff oils weren't actually changed, just topped up. It's did 7 miles from the MOT and this work done, so little damage should hopefully have been done if it was low. Of course no idea how many miles it had done before it was parked up.

 

I also think I know why the wipers don't work on speed 2. The brush set for the motor was replaced by the seller. Part code for it is for a older motor, which would be only a single speed motor. So I suspect that it's missing the additional brushes and wires for the low speed.

[tooSavvy]

http://www.bmcno.org/tech%20tips/techtip.htm

 

..... have browse m8

 

 

TS

[SiC]

For a good sized wiring diagram I'd get a secondhand Haynes manual off Amazon/EBay.

 

However BMC/BL did very good factory workshop manuals. There are loads of original or reprint ones about, they will cost quite a bit more than an old Haynes manual (at a guess £10-20 for a decent secondhand copy) and can be found on EBay or at autojumbles. It's worth the investment if the car's a keeper and you plan on doing work yourself.

I found this online after a bit of Googling:

http://www.geomatique-liege.be/MGJP/DocumentsPDF/MGB_Workshop_Manual.pdf

[cort16]

I found normal garages don't want to touch old stuff they haven't got a clue. I was having problems with my SD1's SU's and I took it to a local place that was meant to be a carb specialist and they said, don't do SU's mate we only do webers, which I read as we're not touching this with a barge poll.

It turned out the dash pots didn't have any oil in them. Rookie SU error.

 

Does uneven idle possibly not point to an air leak somewhere?

 

I already know you want one of these.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dellorto-Weber-genuine-synchrometer-carb-balancer-made-in-Germany-not-China-/290682796527?epid=1031953622&hash=item43ae0b79ef:g:7XAAAOSwwbdWLkXY

[Mally]

My BGT was on sale at £1500. He dropped it to £900 because it suddenly started smoking, so I trailered it away.

Drove fine, but when you went down a long hill you got clouds of smoke at the bottom.

Took off head and sump.Rings were broke on 3 cylinders. Found the end play in the crank at this stage.

Fitted rings and shells, drove it 3 months without problem. Sold it for £1000 and paid £3,500 for a Roadster.

Massive mistake.

60 psi oil is normal, never had a problem with a gauge but broke many capillary pipes on them.

They don't like being unscrewed from the engine.

Clutch slave cyl can be a right b'stard to remove, forget exactly why but there's a big nut involved.

Edit, remember now big nut is on flexy pipe where its attached to chassis.

It has been known for people to saw the brk off to remove the flexy.

[SiC]

I found normal garages don't want to touch old stuff they haven't got a clue. I was having problems with my SD1's SU's and I took it to a local place that was meant to be a carb specialist and they said, don't do SU's mate we only do webers, which I read as we're not touching this with a barge poll.

It turned out the dash pots didn't have any oil in them. Rookie SU error.

 

Does uneven idle possibly not point to an air leak somewhere?

 

I already know you want one of these.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dellorto-Weber-genuine-synchrometer-carb-balancer-made-in-Germany-not-China-/290682796527?epid=1031953622&hash=item43ae0b79ef:g:7XAAAOSwwbdWLkXY

Funny enough I was pondering about them earlier and was going to ask how good are they.

 

The garage the seller used is the same one he took his TR3 too and said they were pretty good with classics. No idea if they did really have a good idea though.

 

My garage that I use has 3 guys, 2 are owners. Both of the owners own classics - one a BMW 2002 and the other (who's a fair bit older) has got a Lancia Zagato (iirc, but it's a definitely a Lancia convertible...). They've already said they're happy to work on my MG, so I know I have a fall back if I get stuck or in a mess.

[stripped fred]

That's the thing, you can actually see the problem when something fails!

 

My top tip for 'classic' car motoring- make sure it stays a pleasure, not a chore. By this, I mean enjoy it in the summer, but leave it at home when you're having to scrape ice off the windscreen. Walk away from it when you poke a screwdriver through the bulkhead, it'll all still be there when you come back to it next week, etc etc.

My pal runs cars from the era all year round. I do have respect for him for doing this, but for me, it sort of takes the fun out of it. These cars are not fun in the winter. It will constantly mist up, the heater will be crap and it will ice up on the inside when it's very cold. It will also deteriorate at a rapid rate on salty roads. My 60s/ 70s cars are used in all weathers apart from when the salt is out there. The moderns can deal with all that stuff, leaving the old car as something to enjoy. They'll thank you for it and you'll end up with a very nice car.

 

That book is a genuine owners manual- looks like it's in very nice condition too!

Agree with this 100%.

[SiC]

Found this video today. He does an excellent job of showing how to tune these things.

 

Of course the excellent John Twist collection has a good one too:

 

Makes me really want to get out and have a fiddle! Just need to shift the Smart so I can free up cash for more parts, tools and toys.

[SiC]

 

 

Makes me really want to get out and have a fiddle!

Which I couldn't resist doing!

 

Also realised that I haven't taken under body shots either.

 

 

I don't think it came out of the factory with this.

 

Fuel pipes look a bit too original and suspect. Something I'm going to need to sort asap.

 

Earth strap similar too.

 

Sound insulation looks original too.

[SiC]

Now the carbs. The choke/fast idle arrangement really doesn't look right. Apart from the screw being the wrong way, the cam is also partially engaged. I wonder if it's just running incredibly rich. Also explains why when I started it yesterday it required me to keep my foot on the accelerator initially to stop it stalling - rather than relying on fast idle. Which wasn't very fast idle.

 

 

I also filled the dash pots up. As I was leaning over, with my oil can, I felt I was missing a flat cap. I can see why old men like these cars. It's almost like they were designed purely as things to fiddle with.

[Guest Hooli]

Looks good under there, I'm not sure the oil cooler is original either. But I can't remember to be sure.

 

I can't explain how to adjust the carbs, I could do it but it's been too long to remember enough to explain it before hand.

[vulgalour]

Oil cooler is probably original.  Pretty sure all MG Bs have them.

[SiC]

Looks good under there, I'm not sure the oil cooler is original either. But I can't remember to be sure.

 

I can't explain how to adjust the carbs, I could do it but it's been too long to remember enough to explain it before hand.

I think the oil coolers are a bit prone at the front with dirt, water and crud hitting it. So wouldn't be surprised if it's not original part and has been changed at some point.

 

The choke cable has definitely been changed at some point as it's a rubber bumper style. I wonder if it's not been set up correctly ever. Or it's catching and not resetting itself properly to disengage it.

[SiC]

Oil cooler is probably original. Pretty sure all MG Bs have them.

Yeah they all do. It's a sports car and so a necessity for that additional performance, right?

[Guest Hooli]

I wasn't aware they all had them. Learn something everyday etc.

 

It was probably needed with the early 3 bearing engines.

[tooSavvy]

Don't you just luvemm, over on RR 

 

http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/146820/pro-jag-mega-gt-v12

 

... + a box of S.U.s 

 

 

TS

[SiC]

Inspired by the restoring that Vulgalour has been doing on his Austin, I thought I'd do some of my own today on the MGB.

 

Firstly I popped down to Moss and picked up some bits. 28 friggin quid for a bit of pipe, clamps and some foam gaskets. No wonder they manage to keep going all these years.

 

 

First job was to replace the gasket on the driver side reverse light. This has been letting water in somewhere and getting pretty damp.

 

Going by the overspray on the connector, it's almost certain had paint on this car at some point in its life. Incidentally this picture has taken the colour of the paint more closely to what it looks like 95% of the time in sunlight.

 

The old inner gasket unfortunately had taken off the chrome paint inside the light plastic.

 

Finished job. Hopefully this will stay dry.

 

Next up replacing those fuel pipes.

 

I tried reusing the metal sheath and putting it over the new pipes. However it made it an absolute pain in the arse to get the clamps back over. Also I couldn't fit the pipe end over the new fuel filter outlet.

 

The pipe between the main tank feed to fuel filter looked suspiciously like a bit of old garden hose!

 

All done.

 

Also noticed the carb choke linkage not quite right. This is how it was. It's the cable at the bottom near the right carb.

 

This is how it should be.

 

The cam for the carb now seems to be in the same place as videos I've seen. Hopefully this might help my idling issue. I think it happens when I first drove it back as I pulled the choke out quite far, then forgot/didn't know about twisting to lock. Hence it shot back in and I reckon it got that outer shell come out.

 

All that took me a best part of 3 hours to do. Vulgarlour probably get half a car welded back together in the same amount of time...

 

Oh and the tyres arrived. Got them put on the recently acquired rims today. I find it something satisfying seeing brand new wheels ready to go on a car.

 

Quite excited to get them on and see how it handles and rides now! Should be a fair bit more compliant and not so hard than those 25 year or so tyres. Hopefully the rain will stay away long enough tomorrow so I can get it done and go for a spin.

 

Really need to get the Smart sold as it's a right pain trying to get 2 cars moved out of the way when wanting to take it for a spin around the block. In the rare decent evenings we've been having, I've been really wanting to take it out for a blast.

[tooSavvy]

Trolley jack/woodblock on chassis? Don't use jacking points

 

TS

[stripped fred]

I'm enjoying reading about your progress on this, good work!

[SiC]

This won't be helping the running!

 

Should be attached to this:

 

Like this.

 

I stuck this reflective sticker on the water pump pulley, so I can measure the rpm a bit more accurately.

 

Fiddling with the carb idle a tad by moving both together the same amount, bought the rpm to this:

 

Oil pressure when cold at idle now:

[Rusty_Rocket]

Lots of decent jobs done today then! Didn't I tell you all these little things are really satisfying to sort out?!   

[SiC]

That wasn't all! Put the 4 new tyres on too.

 

It also gave me a good chance to have a proper look underneath too. Found a few bits that need a TLC.

 

Found a previous repair patch. This is the front of the drivers side front wheel arch. Looks like a reasonable job has been done here? I don't think this bit is structual anyway (apart from crash crumple zone).

 

This is the passenger side of the same area for comparison.

 

Also found the first major rust issue. Putting my arm right back behind the wing on the drivers side on top of this bit (above the gold bit) I discovered a hole. Roughly about the size of my fist.

 

Something I could have possibly picked up during purchase, but not easily. This is the front rail on the passenger side.

 

This bit of rust I knew about. Tempted to just waxoyl it up to protect and stop any further damage.

 

The Flexi hose for the rear brakes looks a bit sorry for itself. Just starting to crack. The pipes themselves look pretty decent, apart from the fuel pipes at the rear and the hard brake hose for the rear. Something I need to sort asap.

 

Got a chance to use my grease gun for the first time. Fresh grease came out of the cable so someone must have done this recently.

 

ARB and other suspension bushes look knackered too.

 

Clutch slave rubber cover looks past it. No doubt let crud in and worn it's insides. Flexi hose cracking too. Possibly the cause of it being a hard to change gear. Parts are cheap though and accessibility looks good. I reckon I could do this with it just on a ramp and not have to take the wheels off.

 

While I was there I took the chance to clean up the fuel sender contacts. Hopefully this will make the fuel level gauge a tad more accurate. I have noticed at times it drops to quarter for no real reason. Tank had corrosion on.

 

I really need to get under with waxoyl or similar and protect the underside. Also paint some exposed areas like this.

 

That's about it really. Apart from the welding behind the wing (which I'm too scared to take the wing off!), everything is doable with some wrenches.

 

Took it for a spin around locally. Did about 10miles. Felt so much better over bumps with the new tyres. Revs still drop ~200rpm when pushing the clutch in. Doesn't happen instantly. Have to hold it in for 20seconds or so and it'll slowly drop. Reading online it seems common. A quirk of a carbon release bearing or something like that. The solution usually recommend is to not sit with the foot on the clutch. Habits die hard though.

 

This is the oil pressure when warm at ~800rpm idle.

[Guest Hooli]

Simple fixes are great aren't they?

 

Topped your dashpots up yet? I had to do mine all the time, as when I booted it they squirted oil onto the bonnet!

[Rusty_Rocket]

From your underside photos, it's clear it's a good 'un.  There's nothing there at all that's ringing any alarm bells, it's an honest car for it's age.  The rot you've found would be familiar to the owner of a 10 year old Ford, not a 43yo BL car!  Waxoil and enjoy

[SiC]

 

 

From your underside photos, it's clear it's a good 'un. There's nothing there at all that's ringing any alarm bells, it's an honest car for it's age. The rot you've found would be familiar to the owner of a 10 year old Ford, not a 43yo BL car! Waxoil and enjoy

Yeah it seems generally ok underneath. A bit miffed about the hole in the wheel arch at the back, but I guess it's probably not too complex to fix. Possibly not structural bit either.

 

The bit that has a hole is the same bit as this welded bit. Just at the front section.

 

Here is the passenger side sill section. I forgot to take a picture of the drivers side, but it's similar. Apart from black paint/underseal on it.

[SiC]

Simple fixes are great aren't they?

 

Topped your dashpots up yet? I had to do mine all the time, as when I booted it they squirted oil onto the bonnet!

Yeah I topped them up the other day. I don't think they really need it though. If they're squirting out I think it means you've put too much in! When I pushed the carb pistons up, it squirted the excess oil out the top. Eventually it found its own right level.

[Guest Hooli]

Mine used to squirt out till totally empty, must have been an undocumented feature to prevent the bonnet rotting.

[Mally]

Good luck with the flexy clutch hose.

Douse the big nut at the chassis brk for a week or two before you attempt to undo it.

[SiC]

Good luck with the flexy clutch hose.

Douse the big nut at the chassis brk for a week or two before you attempt to undo it.

I'm thinking of just ripping the whole clutch hydraulic system off and replace the lot in one go. The master cylinder looks alright though and doesn't look like it's possibly original.

 

I've heard mixed ideas on replace or keep. Some say just replace for less hassle. Others say original parts are usually better quality than replacements.

 

Replacement kits aren't too frightening though.

 

Full kit: http://www.msc.parts/contents/en-uk/p17044_BEK355_-_MGB___MGBGT_CLUTCH_HYDRAULIC_KIT.html

 

Just the gearbox business end:

http://www.msc.parts/contents/en-uk/p17042_Copy_of_29a._BEK146_-_MGB_Clutch_Slave_Cylinder_Kit.html

[SiC]

I've just realised. The pipe is connected to a different port than what you can buy now.

 

I wonder if it's been swapped over by whoever fitted it or if aftermarkets are different? No idea if it affects it's performance either?