CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I've had this issue since we bought the car over 3 years ago. But in the early days it was 2 or 3 times a year in the warmer months. Now it's nearly everyday. It only happens around 50 degrees c,when it's stone cold or fully up to temp it starts on the button. It's 130 tdi PD automatic.its been a great family car for us but my wife is very quickly loosing confidence in it. I've looked on the specific forums and people have had similar faults but no one can put their finger on it. I changed the temp sensor for the coolant a few months ago as that was a common fault but only on the black sensors mine was green but changed it anyway as the green is the updated sensor. I still have this trouble. Some suggest the diesel temp sensor,why it needs one I don't know. And others have suggested the battery needs replacing. Also others recommend the 109 relay should be at fault. I'm at my wits end with it and it's spoiling an otherwise perfect car. Has anyone had the same issue? Or have any ideas. A scan finds nothing and the EML has not come on to indicate any faults.
Richard Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 What vintage is the fuel filter? Our 5 pot VW engined Volvo was doing something similar and changing the fuel filter made a big difference.
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 What vintage is the fuel filter? Our 5 pot VW engined Volvo was doing something similar and changing the fuel filter made a big difference.The filter is change annually,a lot sooner than is recommended. I did this the first time around but made no difference.
Bobthebeard Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 The injector wiring loom gets a few mentions on forums as a possible cause. Not expensive new apparently.Quote: "The popular theory goes that these start to degrade over time (they are literally soaked in oil all day long). When the metal between the pins & contacts gets looser (random depending on temp), you get duff signals to the ECU, causing over/underuelling. Can't say I believe the above, but changing the loom solved the problem for me (though i changed the coolant temp sensor & fuel filter at the same time)" Sorry if you already know about that! CHRIS1980 1
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 The injector wiring loom gets a few mentions on forums as a possible cause. Not expensive new apparently.Sorry if you already know about that!Your right I forgot that one. But I was under the impression that would fail totally.
Bren Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Wiring will be the culprit. It lives in a harsh environment.
Cavcraft Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Wiring will be the culprit. It lives in a harsh environment.Aye, probably under 8 inches of water in the rear foot wells. Spongebob Squarepants has more chance of survival in those cars. CHRIS1980 1
dome Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I had non starting on my 110bhp Skoda, intermittient at first and getting more frequent-it was the 109 relay. Couple of quid from a scrappy and 2minutes to swap so it's worth a punt.
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 I had non starting on my 110bhp Skoda, intermittient at first and getting more frequent-it was the 109 relay. Couple of quid from a scrappy and 2minutes to swap so it's worth a punt. I might give that a try,for a couple of quid it's worth a go. Apart from the starting issue did it show any other symptoms?
Pillock Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 The 109 relay is apparently a bag of turds and is the sole cause of everything from non-starting, poor running and bad economy all the way through to plague, poverty and Pop Idol. Also worth checking the anti-judder (or whatever they call it) - the flap up at the back of the engine, drivers side, that shuts when you turn the ignition off to "starve" the engine of air to kill it quickly. That can get sticky and lead to poor starting. Just to add it to the list! CHRIS1980 and Cavcraft 2
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 The 109 relay is apparently a bag of turds and is the sole cause of everything from non-starting, poor running and bad economy all the way through to plague, poverty and Pop Idol. Also worth checking the anti-judder (or whatever they call it) - the flap up at the back of the engine, drivers side, that shuts when you turn the ignition off to "starve" the engine of air to kill it quickly. That can get sticky and lead to poor starting. Just to add it to the list!That's an annual thing for me too,I clean it out with the EGR. MR muscle works a treat on them. I think this year though I will clean out the inlet manifold as well.
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 I've just ordered a diesel temp sensor from Darkside Motorsport. Genuine VW part for a lot less than my local stealer wanted. If that does not work I will try the injector loom,they only want £55 for one. My local dealer wanted me to 'assume the position'.
twosmoke300 Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Pd motors need to see 200rpm when warm starting to fire the injectors . When they are cold the ecu bypasses this bit . When the engine is proper hot it probably cranks fast enough . I've done a few where a new starter fixes them but you also need to check it's a good correct cvs battery and all leads and terminals are tip top . A code reader with live data for crank speed may help diagnose this CHRIS1980 1
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 Pd motors need to see 200rpm when warm starting to fire the injectors . When they are cold the ecu bypasses this bit . When the engine is proper hot it probably cranks fast enough . I've done a few where a new starter fixes them but you also need to check it's a good correct cvs battery and all leads and terminals are tip top .A code reader with live data for crank speed may help diagnose thisThe battery is the original one but it's 10 years old now. I hope it's not the starter as that could be pricey.
twosmoke300 Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I'd go battery first but choose one with a big cca rating , they vary massively between brands and qualities . Exide and yuasa seem to have fairly high ratings .
dome Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I might give that a try,for a couple of quid it's worth a go. Apart from the starting issue did it show any other symptoms?For me it was just intermittent non starting whether cold or hot. Eventually wouldn't fire at all.
skattrd Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 I've not read the thread as I'm half pissed and can't be arsed, but get an EGR delete. This banks off the EGR, removes the ASV and various other crap, including n75 or n19 associated bollocks. If you're anywhere near Wakefield pop down to darkside and ask them for a diagnosis. They're top lads and know VAG tdi better than anyone. When my boring was being annoying they diagnosed it in 10 minutes and it was cured by fitting an EGR delete and removing loads of no longer needed crap. Oh, it was the ASV at fault for me.
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 I tried to delete the Egr but as mines a very late model I knew something was up and spat it's emissions dummy out.
HH-R Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 Rip the donkey out and replace with a Perkins Phaser. Lacquer Peel and CHRIS1980 2
CHRIS1980 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Posted June 8, 2015 Rip the donkey out and replace with a Perkins Phaser.How about a cummins 6bt
MarvinsMom Posted June 8, 2015 Posted June 8, 2015 i recommend fire, real fire with flames started with matches. CHRIS1980 1
CHRIS1980 Posted June 9, 2015 Author Posted June 9, 2015 i recommend fire, real fire with flames started with matches.It might come to that. I've already suggested the Viking funeral. Twiggy 1
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