DodgyBastard Posted June 10, 2017 Author Posted June 10, 2017 Nope, Still failing to proceed! DSC_0969 by srblythe, on Flickr Luckily I have a backup ZX DSC_0967 by srblythe, on Flickr Dave_Q, oldcars, CGSB and 3 others 6
twosmoke300 Posted June 10, 2017 Posted June 10, 2017 Arses - air leaks can be such a twat to find DodgyBastard 1
bramz7 Posted June 10, 2017 Posted June 10, 2017 My newly acquired cheap ZX is giving me issues too, so you're not alone. They run so well when they want to though.... KruJoe 1
Ben_O Posted June 10, 2017 Posted June 10, 2017 How the hell did you get that silver one for just £60?
fiatdaft Posted June 10, 2017 Posted June 10, 2017 Because Scotland . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Ben_O and egg 2
DodgyBastard Posted June 10, 2017 Author Posted June 10, 2017 How the hell did you get that silver one for just £60? I don't know, the last 3 xud turbo powered cars I've had have been incredibly cheap, my green one was £120 and required a few patches welding for the mot, the 306 sedan was £80 plus £40 to transport it, it was barried/scene monged so I took the engine and scrapped the rest.
DodgyBastard Posted June 10, 2017 Author Posted June 10, 2017 Arses - air leaks can be such a twat to find It's definitely getting air into the system, after tow starting it, got it running and dying at the unit, occasionally when starting air bubbles were coming through the hose from the filter housing.Would enough air in the pump cause it to die then not restart for a while?
DodgyBastard Posted June 16, 2017 Author Posted June 16, 2017 DSC_0545 by srblythe, on Flickr I had a bit of free time yesterday afternoon to have a play with this. I was concerned that the cheap £8 ebay stop solenoid I fitted might be faulty so I removed it and tested it on the battery, I could see the plunger opening and closing each time I connected and disconnected it with some jump leads.I decided to wire it all back up but fit a bypassed solenoid to the car and leave it running for a while to see what happened to the solenoid connected to the system. After a couple of minutes the plunger popped out into the closed position and that's when I knew it was an immobiliser fault. DSC_0544 by srblythe, on Flickr with the ignition on, I plugged in the keypad which instantly popped the plunger on the solenoid into the open position, plugging and unplugging achieved the same result so I stalled the car and and fitted my ebay solenoid. when fitting it, I decided to give it one last turn to tighten it when it sheared off leaving the threads of the solenoid stuck inside the pump. I used a hammer and flat blade screwdriver to remove the sheared thread then took the solenoid from one of the 305's and fitted that.I'm slightly concerned about the keypad. With the ignition turned on both red and green lights are illuminated but the code is no longer required.I found this bit of advice on another forum which I'll stick here for future reference. if you have the red and green lights on at the same time that is a diagnostic signal that the key pad is not comunicating with the immobiliser unit. this can be caused by various things.FIRSTcheck the crash switch has not popped up, look in your owners pack for the location of this.if your car has a flip down key pad then the wiring breaks where it hinges, remove the pannel untape the loom and repair with solder not crimp connectors.the corroded multi plug issue is a correct identification of a faultxantia it is on the osf inner wing behind the head lightzx its inside the black plastic box on the inner wing, you need to remove the relay plate and ite screwed into the inner wing, from memory its a bit ov a bugger to get atalso on zx there is a bulkhead connector on the drivers side under the wiper scuttle, these are a real problem with water and green crud.remove the wiper arm and scuttle trim and you will see it sat there. down the hole in the mibble of the plug is a torx screw you need to undo. once that is undone the plug should pull appart, if its green ang horid clean it with a nail file or somthin similar and pack with vasalien then rebuild and tryif you are not surewhere the engine multi plug is then follow the engine loom from the fuel pump back, eventualy you will find the multi connectorif you have a diesel pre hdi then you also have a black relay with a red slide lock fastened with a r clip this is the controle relay, unplug this for 30 mins n then plug it back in, try againif you have a petrol version then there is no way of bypassing the imobiliser because the imobilisation is built into the ecu and all the signals are digital code so you cant just twist wires together. the only optin here is to find the fault.if you have a saxo diesel the above mensioned relay is on the front pannel and as the engine moves it breaks the wires in the loom to the relay, find the broken wire and solderif you have a diesel pre hdi then you can bypass the imobilise but its not easy, the block on the fuel pump with 4 or 5 wires going to it has to be removed to reveal the stop solenoid, trouble is it is fastened on with shear bolts which need to be drilled out or the rufffffff aproach is a hammer and chisel but take care not to damage the pump or stop solenoid. once this is gone then you will have a single wire going to the stop solenoid fastened with an 8mm nut.remove the old wire and connect in a new one from an ignition live sorse and hey presto u have no imobiliser.so far as i know there is no way of twisting or connecting a live to any of the 4 or 5 wires on the orrigional unit to bypass it as again the signals are all digitaldisconecting the key pad once the imobiliser is disarmed is useless as the thing will still arm again without the key padone last thingif you have just changed your keypad number this may have caused your problem, when you press buttons on a daily basis then the contacts stay clean, those not pressed get shitty then you change the code, see where im going. if this is the case you may need to get another key pad ie borrow one if you can, return your car to the orrigional code using the replacxment pad then on the old number your old pad should work
DodgyBastard Posted June 17, 2017 Author Posted June 17, 2017 Ranger replacement! Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk DeeJay, CGSB, Ben_O and 8 others 11
twosmoke300 Posted June 17, 2017 Posted June 17, 2017 Weird as immobiliser faults won't normally stop a car once it's running . Mind you it's a pretty crude system on the diesels
DodgyBastard Posted June 17, 2017 Author Posted June 17, 2017 Note to self, never engage 4x4 system on tarmac roads. Front axle is a live axle so the clunking it makes when cornering is unbearable... Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk Coprolalia and oldcars 2
DodgyBastard Posted June 17, 2017 Author Posted June 17, 2017 DSC_0198 by srblythe, on Flickr DSC_0201 by srblythe, on Flickr It drives much better than the last Tata! Kiltox, oldcars, worldofceri and 3 others 6
oldcars Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Ranger replacement! Sent from my F5321 using TapatalkGet the big bus like trims back on please, there class. Are the plates Norman Fairweather garage by any chance?
DodgyBastard Posted June 19, 2017 Author Posted June 19, 2017 I hate the wheel trims. It's Birnam autopoint it came from. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk oldcars and Belfast Gipsy 2
alcyonecorporation Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Remember Carlton wheeltrimgate? Do we all want to go back there? I wager we don't. I like your Merc-not-Merc pick up thing, Scott. Dave_Q and DodgyBastard 2
DodgyBastard Posted June 19, 2017 Author Posted June 19, 2017 Turbot dizzle, is it a vegetarian?It has a Bosch pump. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
nisfan Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 The wheel trims are the worst ones I've ever seen and the sooner they are killed with fire the better
DodgyBastard Posted June 25, 2017 Author Posted June 25, 2017 Mot time for the Alto... DSC_0447 by srblythe, on Flickr DSC_0448 by srblythe, on Flickr CGSB, oldcars and Dirk Diggler 3
cort16 Posted June 25, 2017 Posted June 25, 2017 WTF is that parked to the right of the TATA? Crusty Sills 1
Guest Hooli Posted June 25, 2017 Posted June 25, 2017 Note to self, never engage 4x4 system on tarmac roads. Front axle is a live axle so the clunking it makes when cornering is unbearable... Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk No centre diff on selectable 4wds so no surprise it axle tramps.
MorrisItalSLX Posted June 25, 2017 Posted June 25, 2017 There is a few killer calendar shots here... Mot time for the Alto... DSC_0447 by srblythe, on Flickr DSC_0448 by srblythe, on Flickr Moxy. Might not be FOAD's, but you never know. DSC_0582 by srblythe, on Flickr
DodgyBastard Posted June 25, 2017 Author Posted June 25, 2017 Made myself a log burner out of an old gas cylinder. It was really just an excuse to crack the welder out and burn stuff. DSC_0512 by srblythe, on Flickr DSC_0474 by srblythe, on Flickr DSC_0480 by srblythe, on Flickr No idea why they are sideways in the photos. The Moog, DeeJay, jonathan_dyane and 5 others 8
eddyramrod Posted June 25, 2017 Posted June 25, 2017 Watch out for chaps digging a tunnel under that! DeeJay, jonathan_dyane, HillmanImp and 4 others 7
Guest Hooli Posted June 26, 2017 Posted June 26, 2017 How do you make sure they have no gas in before starting?
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