Jumbuck two - Shite at offroading

[DodgyBastard]

DSC_4935 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

 

Jumbuck is apparently Australian for sheep.

 

 

DSC_4959 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

DSC_4962 by srblythe, on Flickr

[tooSavvy]

Ha! Thort FOAD would've said "I wouldnt join any club that would have me Savvy as a member!"


TS

[DodgyBastard]

Ha! Thort FOAD would've said "I wouldnt join any club that woild have [strikeout]me[/strikeout] Savvy as a member!"

 

 

TS

 

I'm on it already! You commented on my Proton mpi thread!

[DodgyBastard]

More pics!

 

Proton Jumbuck by srblythe, on Flickr

 

DSC_4944 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

DSC_4946 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

I gave it a wash too! anyone want it for £1250?

[hauserplenty]

I would, but it's so far away...

[Vince70]

It looks a fantastic truck for the money there was one parked up not far from me in bright yellow for sale and it didn't look a patch on yours and the guy wanted over £1300 for it.

 

Also a young lad around the corner from me had one and he had a habit of blowing up every car he's ever had up but he couldn't kill off the jumbuck.

 

The only problem was he was a sandwich short of a picnic so the poor jumbuck got nicknamed the dumfuck.

[Andrew353w]

I've seen one in yellow & it looked like a Skoda Fun on acid! 

[tooSavvy]

Well... The Savv commenting on Protons!!

 

I think they are the Marina for the 90's/Noughties [chodworthy] 

 

There is a definite 'sniffy' attitude for Proton.... buy cheep and ragg to razorblades... OR... buy cheaper and say 'Hmm, nice... &enjoy'

 

 

Anyone who joins an owners club rather put themselves in the 'self justification' brigade... but with a Proton... well, try & YOU WILL buy 

 

 

TS

[Pillock]

There's a green one round here that seems to have a new dent every time I see it, but it looks like it's farmyard transport - often has a haybale or a dead sheep or summat in the back when it's parked outside the Co-Op.

[AnthonyG]

Farmers love cheap pickups, ones in west wales even bought Tata Loadbetas, which were just about the most horrible thing you could buy in 1999. I think the local farm machinery place was doing them for about £8k ex VAT.

 

Crew cabs were available, the rear seats looked like a place to put children that you really, really hated with the most horrific looking vinyl covering imaginable. There was also the Safari, which looked like a Discovery shrunken in the wash - think these were £12,999 ex VAT.

 

A Jumbuck is like a Nissan Skyline in comparison. What engine do these have, 1500cc?

[DodgyBastard]

Well that didn't last long! There's a clutch fluid leak somewhere as there was none in the reservoir. Clutch pedal became very soft, then light then pushing it became hard, it made the engine cut out when depressed then it became very light. I can select gears with the engine running but it doesn't engage.

Cuntpuddles!

[spike60]

Internal or external slave cylinder?

[DodgyBastard]

No idea.

[michael1703]

External

[spike60]

At least should be less of a pain if it is the slave, no box out. I don't understand the advantage with internal ones but am familiar with the disadvantages!

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Yeah I'll give you £125-..... Oh.

 

Bad luck FAOD, still I bet these are a piece of cake to fix.

[tooSavvy]

Chop-shop Mittzie going in? (well it'll be in bits anyway)

 

TS

[DavidB]

The slave cylinder is a 10 minute job* to change, they are bolted (via two bolts) onto the side of the gearbox (with the actuator pressing the clutch fork), connected to a rubber hose. Slave cylinders are about £40. If the seals are gone in the old one, or it has started to rust inside, they are un-savable (corrosion rips the seals to bits)

If you do change it, do yourself a favour and unbolt the master cylinder and disassemble it and wash it out in hot water with a toothbrush and washing up liquid. The crud allows air into the cylinder.

[DodgyBastard]

Thanks for the info, I'm just about to go for a look at it now.

[DavidB]

I did the washing thing on brake and master cylinders on a number of Mitsubishi's in the past, it really massively improves the firmness of the pedal.

The reservoir WILL have a layer of black crud on the bottom. They are all easily disassemble-able and easy to do.

[Junkman]

Clutches.

 

Tz, tz, tz...

[DodgyBastard]

It looks like the slave is knackered, added new fluid, tried to bleed it in the usual fashion but when the bleed nipple was closed it just pished out everywhere else when the pedal was pressed in.

I think it was causing the arm to be stuck in the same position, basically the arm doesn't return when the clutch pedal is out. I tapped it with a small hammer and was able to engage gears enough to stick it in first and drive it off the street into my driveway.

Will slave cylinders off Wira's fit? Cheapest jumbuck one I could find was £56 and Wira's were £30...

[Junkman]

It might be possible that they are not compatible.

I'd expect the ute to have a heavier duty clutch.

[Junkman]

The part number is ADC43614.

 

The cheapest I can find is 48 quiddichs: http://www.camskill.co.uk/m30b0s2854p35439/BLUEPRINT_ADC_PART_NUMBERS_-_CLUTCH_SLAVE_CYLINDER_-_ADC43614_

Or £50.48 including postage: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SLAVE-CYLINDER-CLUTCH-PROTON-ADC43614-BY-BLUE-PRINT-/191271041018

[DodgyBastard]

Cheers, will get one ordered!

[holbeck]

I'm loving the Junkman encyclopedia.

[DodgyBastard]

Ok, new slave cylinder is fitted but still having issues. I tried  bleeding the clutch by topping up the fluid, opening bleed nipple, pushing and holding the clutch then tightening bleed nipple repeatedly.

When I thought all of the air was out I tightened the bleed nipple and tried the clutch, it was soft then became firm then became hard. There seems to be a problem with the pushrod on the slave cylinder returning to its original position.

 

Any ideas?

[dave21478]

Is the clutch lever the slave pushes/pulls seized? Its hard to tell by eye, but with the slave unbolted you should just about be able to shift the clutch lever using a prybar to lever it and it should spring back by itself. They are very stiff as normal, but it should be possible by hand with a lever about 18 inches long.

If its seized, you will have all sorts of trouble and while I dont know these cars at all, it probably means dropping the gearbox off to fix it.

 

If its just a bleeding problem, you are better with two people - get someone to pump the pedal up and down ten times quite rapidly then hold it down. You then crack open the nipple then close it straight away, allowing a spurt of fluid out then resealing it before air can get back in. Repeat several times and see if that helps.

If you still get no joy, get a stick and wedge the pedal down overnight and see if that helps.

[DodgyBastard]

What happens is the clutch is pressed, it pushed the pushrod which pushes the fork, when the pedal is out everything stays in position, push it again and it forces the pushrod further. I can tap the fork back into its original position with a small hammer but it doesn't seem to want to return on its own.

I have a feeling there wasn't anything wrong with the old cylinder. I'm starting to become fed up with this shit heap...

[Asimo]

Reading through this, I think take DavidBs advice and wash out the master cylinder and reservoir.

 

edit - crossed posts -

 

Seized release fork bearing?