Help, I am crap

[J-T]

May as well give you the back story as to how I got where I am...

 

The brakes on my GTV were decidely crap, so I changed the discs and pads a few weeks back. In doing this I found that the brembo calipers were in much need of a refurb, nearly all the dust seals were knackered and each side had one siezed piston. They also looked like this:

 

 

I got some prices to get them sent away, rebuilt and powder coated and the cheapest quote was £350 - not gonna happen! So I found some better ones on the bay off a 147 GTA for £100, nothing siezed, all seals intact, gave them a quick sand down and blazzed some caliper paint on them.

 

 

I know they look far from perfect but they'll look fine with a wheel in front of them. So I came to have a bash at fitting them today. There is a flexi line, leading to a solid line which connects to the caliper which I'd noticed looked rather rotten so took the unusual step of planning ahead and bought some new flexi to caliper sections, so I just cut through the old one and took the caliper off. However, can I undo the union at the flexi...can I fook!! So I am now left with this mangled arrangement:

 

 

The union nut is totally mullered after using every appropriate (and inappropriate) tool in my armoury to free it from the flexi hose. I have considered getting a new flexi hose as they're only cheap but this is what awaits at the other end

 

 

I've not yet tried shifting that, but I fear I'd be in much the same situation and there doesn't look enough room to cut the pipe and re-flare it (and I don't have a flaring tool)

 

At the caliper end I've tried brake hose spanners, open ended spanners, hammering a smaller socket over it, mole grips etc etc. It's currently left for another soak in plus gas. The only thing I've not tried is heat as I don't know how flammable brake fluid is. This situation certainly did not come about due to any lack of skill on my part and is entirely the fault of every tool that I used and the car being italian.

 

WOT WUD U DO???????????????????????

 

 

[wuvvum]

The only thing I've not tried is heat as I don't know how flammable brake fluid is.

 

Having managed to set fire to a swallowtail Golf by shorting out the battery live terminal against the master cylinder, I can tell you that brake fluid is quite flammable.

[Barry Cade]

If tha twert me- I'd cut the lot off, make up a new brake pipe, new flexy and be done with it. Brake pipe's cheap and one replaced, it's done. Not worth messing around with. Brake fluid is seriously flammable, and flexy's can pop, showering you in boiling fluid. It's not pleasant.

[cort16]

It once took me 6 weeks to change a set of discs and pads on a BMW 7 series so I'm of no use in this situation.

However I'd buy a flexi and prepare for the worst i.e replacing the entire fuel system.

[saucedoctor]

Wot Tiff said. I did the belt n braces approach on my neighbours Toyota Picnic which was similarly mangled. Didn't even take all that long.

[Barry Cade]

Yup- If you keep trying various methods of twisting and shoogling, you WILL break off the bracket from the inner wing, and add another job to replacing the flexy and pipe.

[derskine]

As above I would cut it all off and make up some new pipes.

In copper because it's far easier to work with and a little smear of copper grease on the pipe where the union sits, so next time it comes off without fault.

[J-T]

Hmm. Just had a look at where that brake pipe runs and as far as I can make out, the car is 1st created by a man holding this pipe, around which the entire car is then bolted, such is it's *free and easy path.

 

ARSES!

 

This was not the answer you were meant to give. Try again whilst I have a breakdown.

[Barry Cade]

OK. Cut the bridge bit under the nut- and that should allow you to pull the pipe/flexy through the bracket a little. Get GOOD VISE GRIPS on the brake pipe end, cut the flexy just where the ferrule is and get a GOOD 17mm ring spanner ( or even better a deep impact socket)on the flexy nut, and remove.Hold the brake pipe still and turn the flexy.Saves the risk of damaging the bracket. Never fails.

[derek9213]

before you even try a spanner on the brake pipe nut, use a good set of vice grips with good teeth (clean the teeth with a file if need be), crack the pipe nut ( while holding the flexi ferule with another set of vice grips) but dont try to undo it, release the clip from the flexi and pull it gently down and unscrew the flexi from the nut while holding the nut with the vice grips, refit the flexi by screwing it back to the nut and refit the retaining clip then give the nut a final nip up

 

i use this method regularly at work and find doing it this way saves twisting the brake pipe and weakening it

[derek9213]

OK. Cut the bridge bit under the nut- and that should allow you to pull the pipe/flexy through the bracket a little. Get GOOD VISE GRIPS on the brake pipe end, cut the flexy and get a GOOD 17mm ring spanner on the flexy nut, and remove.Hold the brake pipe still and turn the flexy. Never fails.

 

 

beat me to it tiff

 

but what he said 

[J-T]

I tried heat. Heat did not work. I tried heat followed by cold. Heat followed by cold did not work. It's currently sat in a mug full of oil and I'll have another go in a couple of days.

 

In the meantime a brake hose has been ordered, no doubt to repeat all of the above.

 

Can't fuggin wait to do the other side!

[Squire_Dawson]

I can confirm the need for caution when using heat near brake fluid. Whilst bleeding the clutch, some fluid evidently got on the exhaust manifold and started to burn off - really unpleasant stuff to breathe in and it took an age for it all to go.

[mat_the_cat]

Last year I had to replace a rear flexi hose on the van for the MOT...thought I might as well do the front ones too as I found a set of stainless braided ones for not much dosh. This resulted in me replacing every single piece of brake pipe on it with copper, one new rear cylinder and both front calipers.

 

I therefore won't offer you any advice.

[J-T]

Last year I had to replace a rear flexi hose on the van for the MOT...thought I might as well do the front ones too as I found a set of stainless braided ones for not much dosh. This resulted in me replacing every single piece of brake pipe on it with copper, one new rear cylinder and both front calipers.

 

I therefore won't offer you any advice.

The way this is going I can well believe it!!

 

Gulp.

[Junkman]

 

 

[wackywacerwill]

The above (top swan neck type) bad ass mofos have sorted many a seized brake pipe union for me. I find the shape of the jaw and the pressure you can apply whilst still being able to feel how much damage you are doing is a great asset and often better than the vice grips.

 

I have had to replace the odd brake pipe when they have snapped mind so do heed the advice of others.

[Barry Cade]

VISE grips- the proper ones, not Mole grips or vice grips or any other inferior stuff. I am in no way a tool snob and prefer Halfords stuff myself, but VISE grips are worth their weight in gold.

[derek9213]

VISE grips- the proper ones, not Mole grips or vice grips or any other inferior stuff. I am in no way a tool snob and prefer Halfords stuff myself, but VISE grips are worth their weight in gold.

 

i agree totally tiff but can i just add......vice grips with teeth sharpened, the amount of people who use them with half chewed teeth and wonder why they dont grip feck all is unreal, its always worth giving the teeth a clean up with a file before chewing the nut to death 

[J-T]

Carried on making this worse today.

 

The brake pipe in this pic:

 

 

proved to have all the strength of wafer left and duly broke just above the union (it would seem it has been dicked about with before judging by the *excellent welding on display just behind it).

 

From what I can see, that brake pipe disappears past the inner wing and runs along the bulkhead behind the engine to the ABS block. I can't really see due to there being a wacking great V6 in the way.

 

The rest of this brake pipe that I can see looks fine as it isn't in a very exposed location. So rather than make a full new pipe, is it possible to join new copper to old steel brake pipe with a joining piece? Or is that more hassle than it's worth (bearing in mind there's sod all room to work due to engine a bit too big for car scenario).

[Barry Cade]

You'll be very lucky to flare steel pipes on the car in that area- it takes a lot of force, although there is nothing wrong with joining pipes. Best just bite the bullet and replace them. In the past couple of days I've done front to rears on an E46 Coupe, and both fronts on a Rover 75- both looked like a real headache, but once started, all went OK. You can route the pipes any way you want, as long as they are properly clipped.

[twosmoke300]

I have recently bought a small handheld tool for flaring steel pipes in situ. Was about 50 quid and is a complete game changer for brake pipe jobs.

Made in Britain too

[J-T]

You'll be very lucky to flare steel pipes on the car in that area- it takes a lot of force, although there is nothing wrong with joining pipes. Best just bite the bullet and replace them. In the past couple of days I've done front to rears on an E46 Coupe, and both fronts on a Rover 75- both looked like a real headache, but once started, all went OK. You can route the pipes any way you want, as long as they are properly clipped.

Maybe it won't be so bad then if I can re-route it. Would be much easier if I could see where it actually goes. Tune in next week when the engine will be sat on the floor after I strip every bolt in the front subframe in an effort to remove the old one!

 

I have recently bought a small handheld tool for flaring steel pipes in situ. Was about 50 quid and is a complete game changer for brake pipe jobs.

Made in Britain too

Do you know which one it is?

[Barry Cade]

I have recently bought a small handheld tool for flaring steel pipes in situ. Was about 50 quid and is a complete game changer for brake pipe jobs.

Made in Britain too

If it's a Sykes Pickavant one, don't hold out too much hope for it lasting, I broke 3 then gave up. Now use the proper vice type, a scaffold pole and a BIG pair of stilsons to flare steel pipes, 2 man job.