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Bought a lemon!


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Posted

Oh dear. Still, at least you've got a nice new turbo, as long as the bearings debris hasn't fucked that as well....

 

Well done to A-R for top quality driving about and helping skillz.

Posted

Indeed - he's a top fella and no mistake!

Posted

Gr8 work AR! Mega helpful! Now you have redeeemed yourself for filling up the PU51 DRY thread with chod.

Posted

He's a top mechanic is Albert Q Ross, he did the cambelt on my Stanza in what felt like 10 minutes.

Posted

Here's an arty shot, but am I right in thinking that if the head surface is totally flat, then this shouldn't happen?

 

IMG_20110501_163506.jpg

 

But it's OK, as you can push it back down a few mill with light finger pressure.

Posted

Diesel pistons are intended to sit proud of the block face. The gaskets vary in thickness to account for deck height. This is an extreme example of the kind of play you get. Another few RPM and it would have chucked a leg out of bed. At least I got it started though! (Bleeding injectors is great, especially when the spray goes all over the neighbours convertible skip.... with the roof down!) I reckon the bores have been full of water, as they are not "clean" or showing any honing marks. Probably full of water at some point, pointing to the reason behind the head being a replacement. I reckon the previous owner knew it had issues, but could not have expected to know this was going to happen. We wait to see if you find an engine then!

Posted

christ what a pisser......I guess it's gonna happen to us all at some point.

Posted

I've been delving into the deep, mysterious world of VAG engine codes. Fucking fuckers.... I swear there's someone having a right good laugh at those! I seem to have it pinned down to an ASV or an AGR engine - there seems to be no difference between the two, at all. Others (and there's a lot!) have different types of wastegate, or are designed for longitudinal applications, or whatnot - either way, not worth the risk. AGR is commonly found in Golfs and Toledos, ASV in Passats and Leons but like a Mansfield family, they swap and change as they see fit.

 

Had some comedy quotes in the £650 region, and even that was an exchange unit and I wouldn't be convinced they'd take mine as a "serviceable" unit. Sent a few emails regarding just an assembled block without head or other boltons. However, I've just found http://www.mansfieldengines.co.uk/ - their price list seems remarkably cheap, yet they seem like a proper old-fashioned engineering setup rather than a production line. I'll give them a bell tomorrow, see about maybe reconditioning just my block.

 

Again, thankyou so much for the help today, you are a star.

And I think most of the diesel spray vanished off the StreetKa next door ;)

 

Edit: i'll ring them Tuesday. Stupid bank holidays.

Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted

I think they change the engine code every time they revise a tiny or insignificant part.

Posted

There should be an engine code stamped somewhere, If they are like VW's it will be on a sticker in the boot or service manual.

Posted

Yeah, it's on a sticker in the boot, and also on a sticker on the cambelt cover. Mine is ASV, but the AGR is apparently identical. AHU has a wastegate where mine doesn't, ASU has a different diesel pump, there's fugging billions of them. I'm reliably informed an AGR will go OK and they're more common. Then there's some 90hp and 130hp models with different codes, but some 90hp and 130hp models are ASV but with different injectors and turbo. But if it was a 90hp, then you also have to change a sensor when you bolt the 110 stuff on. And then there's the old 1Z which is the same longblock, so Ok if I just need the metal lumpy bits but no good for the other stuff. And then the PD engines which are totally different and won't work at all but have annoyingly similar engine codes.

 

Seriously, I'm going mad.

Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted

Isn't 130 PD?

Posted

TDI came in 90,110 and 130 flavours but the 130s are pretty rare.

PD was 90, 105, 115, 130 and 150 I believe. And then there's the newer ones that are 140 and 170.

I can fit the 130 injectors to a 110 in my Leon and it'll be 130 spec, it's the only difference - plus a tweak to the ECU to adjust fuelling. Not at the minute obviously - the head is in the boot.

Posted

Well that link's for a 130...... Go on, go for it. Sleeperville. Then, get it all in a Transporter camper (bolts to the 1588 mounts and gearbox)

Posted
Well that link's for a 130...... Go on, go for it. Sleeperville. Then, get it all in a Transporter camper (bolts to the 1588 mounts and gearbox)

 

PD 130, not a TDI 130 ;)

 

Can you see why I'm confused now??

Posted

Yo Pillock! Make sure you get the watercooled one and not the 16v aircooled v5 TSi G60 PD with common rails.

Posted
There should be an engine code stamped somewhere, If they are like VW's it will be on a sticker in the boot

I didn't think VWs had their engines in the boot any more :?

Posted
There should be an engine code stamped somewhere, If they are like VW's it will be on a sticker in the boot

I didn't think VWs had their engines in the boot any more :?

 

What Trig meant was VW put a sticker on the boot floor with all the chassis codes, colour codes and engine codes, lift up the boot carpet to expose that stickery goodness, unless some scrote has peeled it off or your boot leaks water.

Posted

The boot sticker is there on Pillock's motor. One of the first things I checked.... the timing cover sticker may not be true, especially seeing as the engine has been in bits! I was on about the Pdi/Tdi nomenclature that becomes confusing as the TDi is called the Tdi, yet the Pdi is also called the TDi.... Even on the boot. They have different colour D's and I's... in red, the more power they make, the redder the badge. Bloody silly VAG motors.

Posted
Can't you drag it all out and lob a Perkins Prima in there?

 

..............FTW.... :D

Posted

Does it really make sense to get a new engine in and all that?

Why don't you just get another car and just use this one as a DONER KAR?

Posted

I really, really need to be mobile ASAP. I'm going insane, and it's getting the the point where I'll say "fuck it" and just spend more than I should in order to get some wheels revolving. Plus there's not really much I can donor off it - any other Leon selling for spares or repairs will either have had an engine failure (double trouble) or a shunt, which is beyond me and my adjustable wrench.

 

Tomorrow I'll phone a few places and see what the score is, primarily though they need to be able to get my car back to their place so I'll start locally. Can't think what is the cheapest option - all the labour involved in putting new bearings/shells/whatever in my block, and as Albert says probably a rod or two too - or just a recon engine.

Posted
Best course of action?

 

get it flogged as "spares or repairs" or "salvage" (some claart on eBay will give you nearly GWO money anyway)

go back to the person you sold your totally reliable if mildly inefficient BMW to and beg and grovel to have it back.

 

OMG U SHUD GET AN DEEZEL DEY R SO CHEEP 2 RUN

U SHUD GET A VAG PRODUCT AS THEY R THE BEST!

 

 

Couldn't agree more!! Diesels are a false economy- if you want to save money on fuel, you go for LPG.

Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted

Those TDi engines are pretty solid usually though, I quite fancy one. They are even good on vegetable oil because they have some kind of pre-chamber like an indirect injection diesel.

 

Was the rotary pump 130 available in the UK? I've never heard of one, all the 130s I've seen have been PD.

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