Welding Genei advice sought

[babydriver]

I have been given some advice on another thread but can not find it, i'm sure its on the Celica window repair artical complete with some brill pics which quite inspired me so I am afraid I will have to ask again.

I got my end of line discounted gasless mig for my Christmas present and have just been down to Halfords to spend a few pounds 'Vouchers' which I got from great Grannie Clampit, I bought a small angle grinder 900 watts 115mm and a pair of tinman shears.

 

(why do I always have problems with everything being priced wrong in that shop) and the plastic cards they give you never seem to work the lad who served me had to drag his knuckles along the floor over to the manager at the other side of the store and back 5 times, queue not pleased with me. Anyway

 

What other snips do you think I will need and I know i will need some metal cutting discs but they seem very thick, What about the flap wheels is that for griding down the welds?

 

Another thing if you could advise is that our tumble drier died and I would like to know that now the evil thing I married has a new one could I cut up the old on to practice my welding skills on before I try it on my car or is the metal too thin to set the welder up for, Im sure I have heard someone say they cut up an old filing cabinet somewhere to weld to their car.

 

How thick steel do I need to buy for welding up the Herold? I was thinking of going to a scrappy and mabee buying a flat side of a (sorry Fred) Transit to use for the repairs also if I buy one of those spot weld drill bits to cut out the welds is it possible to fill the welds with a mig to attach the new wings I have got.

 

I know I may sound like an amature which I am but I am keen to learn and I also have got some welding overalls and gloves and a fire extinguisher so want to be safe, note to self, must get a breathing mask.

 

Any advice gratefully recieved. Happy New Year Too.

[HillmanImp]

IIRC i use 1mm steel for most bodywork or 1.6mm for structural (floor, weight loading points). However i have not taken any advice on this, i have just got it and ploughed on. Other peeps might think i have picked wrong thicknesses. To be fair the stuff i have welded into the floor is probably a fair bit thicker than what i have welded it too......

 

I was advised (on here i think) not to use old machinery as the metal was always bad and would not last on the car. paint might also be toxic if burnt?

 

I dont use gauntlets as it makes the welding difficult. Dont do enough to really damage my hands, just have a few pocks in them at any given time.

[garethj]

What other snips do you think I will need

I've got a nibbler that fits in an electric drill. It's marvellous

I know i will need some metal cutting discs but they seem very thick, What about the flap wheels is that for griding down the welds?

Metal cutting disc is for cutting out rust, metal grinding disc (thicker) is for grinding down welds. I've never used the flap wheels so can't really say what they're best for.

Another thing if you could advise is that our tumble drier died and I would like to know that now the evil thing I married has a new one could I cut up the old on to practice my welding skills on before I try it on my car or is the metal too thin to set the welder up for, Im sure I have heard someone say they cut up an old filing cabinet somewhere to weld to their car.

Go for it. Practice is always handy. You might need different settings on your welder compared to car bodywork though. If it's galvanised (a kind of silvery hammered finish like crash barriers) you'll need to grind the surface off before welding. Zinc fumes are very poisonous.

How thick steel do I need to buy for welding up the Herold? I was thinking of going to a scrappy and mabee buying a flat side of a (sorry Fred) Transit to use for the repairs

About 1.2mm is where you want to be, measure what's on the car if you like.

also if I buy one of those spot weld drill bits to cut out the welds is it possible to fill the welds with a mig to attach the new wings I have got.

You can, but the spot weld drills don't tend to last long in my experience

I also have got some welding overalls and gloves and a fire extinguisher so want to be safe, note to self, must get a breathing mask. Any advice gratefully recieved. Happy New Year Too.

I like welding gauntlets, they're handy for not burning your skin off. I haven't used a breathing mask, but make sure you wear safety goggles when using the angle grinder ALWAYS. A selection of mole grips are handy for clamping metal together before welding.

[M'coli]

I'd start by reading these two RR threads, both very good:

http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... read=65793

http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... read=70135

 

Try to get some of Machine Mart's plasma discs - they're just over 1mm thick and very good at cutting metal, but they don't last long until you get used to them.

 

Wear earplugs - hot weld blobs hurt lots when it drops down your ear, and if it's still hot when it reaches your eardrum it may go right through.

[Claypole]

Get a full face visor too for using with the grinder, better safe than sorry (I'm talking RR skool of safe practise - sandals and a cheeky grin might be a laugh but I'll keep my face as it is thanks).

 

As for welding, I bought some new car repair type steel sheets off Ebay - no messing with grinding paint or rust off etc. and used a few of those for practising on.

[babydriver]

Thank you very much people, all advice noted and will be used. Especially the ear plugs. ouch.

[cobblers]

For cutting steel, don't even consider using "cutting" disks you get from DIY places, use 1mm "slitting" discs. The 3mm ish cutting disks are useless and take 5 times as long to cut anything.

 

I use these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20-X-METAL-CUTTIN ... 1916wt_905

They aren't the best, but they are reasonable for what you pay and cut 1.2mm steel like it's not even there. Also have an 80 grit flap wheel for removing paint without removing too much metal and final "finishing" of ground back welds, a knot wheel for knocking back surface rust/loose stuff and a couple of good quality grinding disks that you can really lean into.

Definitely wear good eye protection (getting grinding sparks dug out of your eye is very unpleasant once the anaesthetic wears off)

Some people like a full face visor, I wear some safety glasses that "seal" to my face like a pair of oakleys. The cheapie "goggles" are crap and steam up, don't fit your face and are uncomfy so you are tempted to "just do this one quick bit of grinding" without them on.

A good pair of gloves is pretty much essential, get some leathery ones.

[babydriver]

Thanks for the link 'Cobblers' (that does not sound right) I have just ordered some of those discs the flap wheels etc I have seen for quite cheap on Bolton car boot so will mosey on over on Sunday and give some of the stuff a try.

[M'coli]

Flap wheels are ace for grinding stuff flat, they're quieter than proper grinding discs.

[Bren]

Get a nibbler for cutting - no sparks, and a clean cut that leaves little in the way of sharp edges. Just fits in your electric drill.

 

If you can stretch to it, chuck away the shitty hand held mask you got with your welder and invest in a speedglas - it' s an auto darkening helmet which leaves both hands free.

 

A cheap set of welders clamps and a magnet for holding pieces in situ and away you go!