Motown Posted August 14 Posted August 14 I have been a Leyland licker for some years and currently own a 253 which is in daily use. In terms of tractors it just felt natural and the right choice after owning and fixing Rovers for so many years. Id never really thought about Fergie's until me and a friend pulled this 135 out of a nearby Byre were it's been sitting for some years. My friend has no interest in it so its staying with me i am not looking to fully restore it but would like to get it running and put it to work again. It has a few parts missing (Mainly tinwork) but its unmolested in that its still on its dynamo and hasn't been converted in any way. The engine is turning and I've already fitted a new belt, water pump coolant pipes and radiator. Currently awaiting a new loom and some other bits coming in the post before i get her running. The dash is rotten as is the wiring but the clutch an gears aren't ceased and appear functional. The glass for the cab is all there but needs refitting with new seals. The seat, front lights, bonnet and all associated covers are missing sadly. The steering works remarkably well but I've had the rear wheels off to start work on the brakes which will no doubt need a complete overhaul. The brakes were next to useless when new so i don't expect much of anything to happen when i stand on them. All the tractors from that era seem the same my Leyland is useless in low gear but faster in high reverse than any other gear. The brake pedal is useless it would be more effective if you threw a brick under the wheel while it was moving. Scruffy Bodger, LightBulbFun, martc and 26 others 28 1
Matty Posted August 14 Posted August 14 Keep us up to date with the pair of them please pal. Always interested in a bit of something differant! Motown 1
eddyramrod Posted August 14 Posted August 14 I can remember my sister and I playing on the 135/165 display models at agricultural shows in the 60s, where my dad usually had a stall. They were probably the favourite tractors for this 7yo kid back then. I'm really pleased this one's found a home, good luck with it! Motown 1
Motown Posted August 14 Author Posted August 14 10 hours ago, Matty said: Keep us up to date with the pair of them please pal. Always interested in a bit of something differant! I will do ive been working on it today will update the thread shortly Matty and Snipes 2
Motown Posted August 14 Author Posted August 14 10 hours ago, eddyramrod said: I can remember my sister and I playing on the 135/165 display models at agricultural shows in the 60s, where my dad usually had a stall. They were probably the favourite tractors for this 7yo kid back then. I'm really pleased this one's found a home, good luck with it! Thank you! eddyramrod 1
N Dentressangle Posted August 14 Posted August 14 They obviously didn't do much to the brakes since the TE20. Remember driving a few of those in my youth, and they never had any real stopping ability. Motown 1
Motown Posted August 14 Author Posted August 14 Did a little tinkering again today.... I was hoping to do more but someone decided to crash into the side of my Rover so the day was a write off and no doubt the car will be too The throttle lever on the tractor is still ceased solid ive applied lots of WD40 to the lever and parts of the linkage but it still wont budge so il try and tackle that another day. I then turned my attention to the oil bath air filter as ive replaced all the other filters on the tractor. The filter housing is pretty much rotten and was very holey in places the top hat is also missing so I've ordered a completely new filter assembly and top hat. Remarkably there's no water ingress in the engine so any moisture that did get in probably just sat in the filter housing and rotted that out instead of the engine. The internal mesh filter was absolutely clogged with years of gunk and hay. I cleaned it up with some diesel and an old rag before topping it up with fresh oil. I then fitted an old spare starter motor in the hopes of bringing the tractor back to life and replaced the fixing bolts as the old ones were shot. Sadly the new loom hasn't arrived yet so unable to get her running today. I hope to get some proper work done on it soon once the parts arrive so will update the thread as and when. If anyone can tell me what sort of cab this is i would be very grateful. I have all the glass and seals for it but the metal work is in a bad way and it only has one door which is a real pain to get in and out of.... i am thinking on whether i should remove it or not. danthecapriman, Dyslexic Viking, puddlethumper and 3 others 6
Motown Posted August 18 Author Posted August 18 More work done today but unfortunately i still couldn't get it started Firstly i removed the old loom and control box as they were shot and fitted a brand new ones which arrived today in the post. I then hooked up the safety start and earth Plugged in the new control box I then hooked up the ignition switch in the dash and starter motor. I also fitted a new battery cable as it was missing. Slighty baffled as to where i am going wrong.... The key turns but no crank i checked the engine was free before fitting the starter so i know its not locked up. The starter was working when tested but I did notice the solenoid on starter was hot i had cranked it a few time but it could be the starter is scrap unless I've wired it up wrong but these looms are fairly simple though so I doubt it. I will try fitting a new starter when i have the time and funds tooSavvy, danthecapriman and Zie 3
Mrs6C Posted August 18 Posted August 18 27 minutes ago, Motown said: The key turns but no crank Is this a diesel? If so and it's like the MF35, there are two positions for the key in at least one direction. The first position operates the glow plug/s and you hold the key in that position for a minute or so (in my MF35's case, until smoke starts issuing from the vicinity of the air cleaner) and then turn the key further against a spring, to operate the starter. The other direction may have just the one position, but against a spring again. You may not be turning the key far enough to engage the starter and/or the starter switch has some dirt/corrosion that is stopping it going through its full movement. Also, check you have wired the safety switch correctly and that both the gear lever and the High/Low ratio selector are in Neutral. Motown 1
Snipes Posted August 19 Posted August 19 Did you clean up the metal work where the earths are bolted down? Seeing a lot of corrosion in the pictures. Could be causing poor contact. Motown 1
Asimo Posted August 19 Posted August 19 The link from the solenoid to the motor is missing in this image. adw1977 and Motown 1 1
Motown Posted August 19 Author Posted August 19 11 hours ago, Asimo said: The link from the solenoid to the motor is missing in this image. THANK YOU!!!!! I don't know how i missed that especially as i took a photo of it. I fitted a jumper cable between the two and she's cranking and turning now. il post a video soon i think it needs more juice currently running it on a 65ah battery i had spare and it needs 95ah. The crank is abit weak at the moment not quite enough to get it running. auntiemaryscanary, Matty, adw1977 and 1 other 4
Motown Posted August 19 Author Posted August 19 12 hours ago, Snipes said: Did you clean up the metal work where the earths are bolted down? Seeing a lot of corrosion in the pictures. Could be causing poor contact. Yes i did but thanks for the suggestion a wire was missing from the solenoid to the motor. I will update the thread soon Snipes 1
Motown Posted August 19 Author Posted August 19 19 hours ago, Mrs6C said: Is this a diesel? If so and it's like the MF35, there are two positions for the key in at least one direction. The first position operates the glow plug/s and you hold the key in that position for a minute or so (in my MF35's case, until smoke starts issuing from the vicinity of the air cleaner) and then turn the key further against a spring, to operate the starter. The other direction may have just the one position, but against a spring again. You may not be turning the key far enough to engage the starter and/or the starter switch has some dirt/corrosion that is stopping it going through its full movement. Also, check you have wired the safety switch correctly and that both the gear lever and the High/Low ratio selector are in Neutral. Some great advice thank you! I had a wire missing from the solenoid the old girl is turning now eddyramrod and Mrs6C 1 1
Motown Posted September 2 Author Posted September 2 ****Update on this**** I am having issues with the new starter the tractor cranked before with the old knackered starter but now I've fitted the new one and nothing at all on the key. I tested the new starter off the tractor with jump leads and it works.... If i bridge the terminals when the starter is on the tractor it starts and the engine runs really well so i know the starter isn't the issue.... The tractor simply wont start on the key doesn't even crank as it did with the old starter I haven't messed with the wiring loom since i fitted the new starter so i am confused as to why it wont work. The new starter is slightly different so perhaps the wiring to the starter needs adjustment They are two wires coming from the loom for the starter a brown wire (large spade) which is the live feed and a red & white wire (small spade) which is the solenoid exciter. I have three terminals on the starter the small S terminal (small spade) which the red & white wire (solenoid exciter) connects too. The other terminal is for the battery cable and the third terminal just below that is were the earth strap from the solenoid attaches to the motor.... That leaves me with live feed brown wire (large spade) shown in the picture below. I don't know were i should connect this on the starter and believe this is why the tractor isn't turning over on the key/Ignition switch. Purchasing bits and pieces were needed.... New dash almost completed non of the the original gauges worked and the dash was rotten so that warranted complete replacement. And I've purchased a new Duncan cab complete with glass seals wiper and rear hatch window as the original cab is beyond saving warch, Matty, Dyslexic Viking and 2 others 5
5speedracer Posted September 3 Posted September 3 14 hours ago, Motown said: ****Update on this**** I am having issues with the new starter the tractor cranked before with the old knackered starter but now I've fitted the new one and nothing at all on the key. I tested the new starter off the tractor with jump leads and it works.... If i bridge the terminals when the starter is on the tractor it starts and the engine runs really well so i know the starter isn't the issue.... The tractor simply wont start on the key doesn't even crank as it did with the old starter I haven't messed with the wiring loom since i fitted the new starter so i am confused as to why it wont work. The new starter is slightly different so perhaps the wiring to the starter needs adjustment They are two wires coming from the loom for the starter a brown wire (large spade) which is the live feed and a red & white wire (small spade) which is the solenoid exciter. I have three terminals on the starter the small S terminal (small spade) which the red & white wire (solenoid exciter) connects too. The other terminal is for the battery cable and the third terminal just below that is were the earth strap from the solenoid attaches to the motor.... That leaves me with live feed brown wire (large spade) shown in the picture below. I don't know were i should connect this on the starter and believe this is why the tractor isn't turning over on the key/Ignition switch. Purchasing bits and pieces were needed.... New dash almost completed non of the the original gauges worked and the dash was rotten so that warranted complete replacement. And I've purchased a new Duncan cab complete with glass seals wiper and rear hatch window as the original cab is beyond saving Beaten to it on the Duncan cab info but apparently you can still buy cab spares Duncan Cabs - Genuine spare parts for Duncan Cabs
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