Renault life. Extra van gets some tlc

[Brigsy]

6 hours ago, vtec-e said:

It does look too good to cut, strip and scrap, but I guess you cant save every older 'faster' Renault Sport.

Does feel a bit criminal cutting up a rot free shell. Ive previously stripped a perfectly tidy red megane r26 with 60k on the clocks 5 years ago to build my kangoo, thinking back that was prob a bad move😄

Its a shame i cant get the inner arch to repair mine. Like rocking horse shit!

[Brigsy]

Updates.

Blue clio dci passenger rear drum brake started making a right squealing the other day. Brake pedal was still ok ish but not as sharp as it had been and handbrake was a bit w**k.

This is usually due to one of the below issues as i have been there before on several different cars over the last 25 years.

Shoes worn out - were thin ish last time i adjusted.

Shoes need adjusting and drum cleaning.

Rear brake cylinder starting to leak, causing dust to clog up, contaminating the shoes and make loads of noise.

With the brake shoes looking thin last time i adjusted them, i had a set in stock which i stuck in a recent autodoc order, with 2x new cylinders and fitting kit. Also ordered 2x new rear drums. Full monty.

Weather not bad this afternoon, stripped down fast. Gear all over.

Passenger side drum examined, shoes indeed low but not on metal. Noise was due to a leaking brake cylinder and adjustment required, noted shoes looked a bit contaminated. On initial inspection brake cylinder looked ok, but pop the dust seal off and it was full of brake fluid. Pulled it off easy, brake pipe undone and new cyl and shoes on.

All new.

Went to fit the new drum and it was tight on the backing plate, rubbing as crap aftermarket. This could have been resolved by removing rust off the backing plate and a small chamfer, but then compared abs rings and 10mm smaller in diameter, so no good.

With this fail i measured the original drum. The drum was just under the max tolerance 203mm recorded vs 204mm max so were ok to reuse once again. They needed a clean up, delipped the drum, give the outer a clean up with grinder on knotted wheel and painted in vht black. This was to try and stop the shoes sticking in wet weather, as i believe the drums let a bit of water in due to porosity in the casting. Hopefully a bit of paint might seal.

Shoes adjusted, drum refitted and onto drivers side. Drivers side was OK and still in adjustment but as per brakes always do in pairs. Stuck a new cylinder in as they usually fail shortly after fitting new shoes to take the piss.

Before

After.

Drum got the same clean and paint treatment as above. Easy yet s**t job, i hate the springs on the shoes.

With that part done, i pressure bled the brakes all round, i dont think its been done for 50k or so, the fluid that came out looked pretty grim.

Brake pedal nice and solid/sharp, and handbrake back to 4x clicks again. Normal service resumed.

Thanks for reading!!

[Angrydicky]

That fluid looks at least 10 years old. Nasty!

[Brigsy]

4 hours ago, Angrydicky said:

That fluid looks at least 10 years old. Nasty!

Not the best defo! Just worked out off an old pic that it was changed 4 years ago, so bit over service interval and probably a bit over in mileage. Just shows how important regular changes are. 

[500tops]

I know it's a high mileage, works van, but those dirty wheel arches would prove impossible for me to ignore! 😫😂

[Brigsy]

On 07/12/2025 at 20:53, 500tops said:

I know it's a high mileage, works van, but those dirty wheel arches would prove impossible for me to ignore! 😫😂

Its on the list of things to do one day 😂I washed half of the underside off a year or so ago with one of them cheap pressure washer attatchments. Got covered in shit and promptly give up half way through.

[Brigsy]

Updates.

Fired the orange clio up last week, to get the breaker megane 225 out. Starts up as usual and idling for a couple of mins in usual chuggy fashion from cold, its never ran great from cold but has been like that for 45 thousand miles.

 

Its idling as normal and then i hear idle pick up suddenly and smooth out, and without even looking i know the fcuker has put the eml light on/went into limp. Look at dash and eml/glow plug light is shining brightly.

 

Plug in clip and laptop goes flat so stick Renolink on for a look. No idea if the codes mirror clip but same ddt2000 database. Says injector 3 combustion.

 

Look in the accelerometer page and injector 3 certainly reading something different to the rest. Taking a wild guess its an injector thats not too happy or injector seal.

Cleared dtc's and runs as normal again. In hindsight i should have left it and read it with clip. Might be time for a new injector or seal. Ill give it a bit of use next week and see if it repeats it.

Also started breaking the silver 225. Bit of a pile of shit when looking closely, bodges all over.

It has been mapped too as checked on Rstuner. Ecu has been flashed a few times. Suprisingly no major faults logged on engine too so cant have been fucked about with too much.

Check out the pink airfilter on it 🤣

Thanks for reading!!

[vtec-e]

I've never seen these software updates screens before, so are those dodgy/cheap software updates where the programming date is all zeroes or in the future ? Presumably the initial update/build was 2002, then the stage 1 map in 2020 and then some other updates? 

 

Presumably even RSTuner cant find any hidden power increases in my 1.2 ? 😄

 

[Brigsy]

On 13/12/2025 at 12:55, vtec-e said:

I've never seen these software updates screens before, so are those dodgy/cheap software updates where the programming date is all zeroes or in the future ? Presumably the initial update/build was 2002, then the stage 1 map in 2020 and then some other updates? 

 

Presumably even RSTuner cant find any hidden power increases in my 1.2 ? 😄

 

It does seem to be oem software first then the rest are from whoever tuned it. I know my kangoo and megane 250 have full screen of software updates on them from various mapping sessions. All say something different😅

Yours 1.2 turbo? They tune pretty good if so.

[vtec-e]

14 hours ago, Brigsy said:

It does seem to be oem software first then the rest are from whoever tuned it. I know my kangoo and megane 250 have full screen of software updates on them from various mapping sessions. All say something different😅

Yours 1.2 turbo? They tune pretty good if so.

No unfortunately, mine is the basic 1147 cc non turbo with 75 bhp. A bit more mid-range torque would be nice, but I'm not expecting anything is realistically possible. I'd expect the only improvements to torque will be by improving top end performance, which is not what I want.

[Brigsy]

On 15/12/2025 at 11:27, vtec-e said:

No unfortunately, mine is the basic 1147 cc non turbo with 75 bhp. A bit more mid-range torque would be nice, but I'm not expecting anything is realistically possible. I'd expect the only improvements to torque will be by improving top end performance, which is not what I want.

Probably not a lot in it, but as you say,  might be able to get a bit more torque in the mid range. Usually throttle response is altered a bit on the rs normally aspirated stuff to make them feel more responsive. Ideal for heel and toe on track etc but totally different to what you want for a daily.

[Brigsy]

Updates.

As seen in news 24 thread, i needed a custom turbo oil feed making up for my new turbo setup for my Kangoo, so popped down Global Hydraulics earlier this week (formerly northern hose and hydraulics).

Excellent service as usual, £35 made in ten mins whilst waiting. Recommended if needing custom hoses in Teesside area. 

-4an one end (7/16jic??) with bsp to metric adaptor at the other end. The oem had a metric banjo made of unobtanium so this should be the solution.

90deg 3/8 bsp to metric connector to replace banjo.

I have the old forged f4r out of the kangoo sat on the engine stand for mock up purposes, so offered it up.

That will do me. I will work out a way to support it with p clips and simple brackets once ive mocked up the turbo, external wastegate and downpipe.

I have also been messing about with cams. I have a large selection of f4r cams and dug out a clio 172 inlet cam in prep to modify for a trigger wheel for cam sensor to allow for sequential injection and variable vvt on inlet.

Clio 197 inlet cam on top vs clio 172 below. Cat cams trigger wheel fitted which does not go on fully to the correct location due to a ridge stopping it.

The cam is for my clio trophy that currently runs the 197 inlet cam. I feel the 197 inlet cam is a bit too wild for turbo, and the 172 one will be more suitable. I need the full scope of 45deg advanced vvt so must have the trigger wheel fitted. 172 does not run cam sensor and its simply on or off vvt, 16deg of advance. Primitive in comparison.

I have done this mod before on my Kangoo and i know a very good retired machinist who has a lathe in his garage. Ten min job to machine the lip off and the trigger wheel can go in the correct location.

Ten mins and done. 

Its added to the pile of parts on the to do list to fit.

Done a small wiring repair the other day. I needed to renew a ring terminal and dug out my chinese spec hydraulic wire crimp tools. They cost next to nowt around £25 from memory and work mega on thicker gauge wiring.

Bit of dual wall heatshrink and done. From previous testing on old wirinf, the wire breaks before the join. So if you want reliability these are the way forward on uninsulated connectors.

 

I have been using the orange dci this week too, after its hissy fit a couple of weeks ago which chucked the eml on. Plan was to see if any more gremlins as mot runs out early jan. Ive done 200ish miles in it and no sign of engine warning light, running decent. I stuck a tin of liqui moly diesel purge in the tank and give it a high speed italian tuneup. 

Also changed the sunroof handle for one that i had in stock to stop the annoying clicking, which seems to have worked.

Mot 8s booked for tuesday. Had it up in the air and all looks acceptable for 21year old car so should be a pass, fingers crossed. Its just gone ten year anniversary of buying for £80. Crazy cheap motoring.

[bigfella2]

Have you got a link to one of those crimpers Jon? Looks great.

[Brigsy]

2 hours ago, bigfella2 said:

Have you got a link to one of those crimpers Jon? Looks great.

Still cheap as chips https://ebay.us/m/nwJkIx

Also worth investing in a cheap set of cable shears if doing heavy stuff.

They are mega for battery cables and heavy stuff. I done 0 gauge cable on my cliotrophy for the battery relocation in the boot.

[Brigsy]

Updates.

As per news 24, My orange clio dci went straight through its mot today. 10th mot in my ownership and 10th anniversary of saving it from a trip over the bridge. Mot tester says clean for an old clio.

Washed it today as not been cleaned for a while and front wheels were black with brake dust, comes up well with minimal effort. Makes a good daily this, fun to drive, reliable and cheap to fix if anything does need doing. Goes much better than the blue dci and handles loads better on the eibach springs.

 

[loserone]

I reckon that's probably peak Clio.  I do wonder what it would be like on twixfest roads.

[Westbay]

Nice , well done !

[Brigsy]

On 24/12/2025 at 19:38, loserone said:

I reckon that's probably peak Clio.  I do wonder what it would be like on twixfest roads.

Definitely peak clio. They are so good as an car, bits break but rarely leave you on a ftp. This one loves to be flogged. It was on the autobahns flat out for ages and done a flat out lap of the nurburgring. 102mph on gps😅

If the stars align ill come to the next twixfest. Im hopefully getting my Extra van sorted asap too so that might also be a goer.

10 hours ago, Westbay said:

Nice , well done !

Cheers mate. Almost free motoring for last ten years! Only needed a handful of wear and tear bits.

[loserone]

I enjoyed mine but the ride even with new springs and shocks on a 182 was too harsh for round here.  The Duster was faster for nearly every journey.  That and I felt I had to much sunk into it.

 

Don't ask how I'm dailying an l322

[Brigsy]

I dont mind stock dci suspension for most b road driving..can drive flat to the boards and it rides the bumps well. Agreed rs models even on stock suspension are hard.

Apparantly the 182 trophy sachs shocks are the one for fast b road. Mines had them changed for bilstein b14 and lowered so no idea. Last b road run i done in it had sparks coming off the sump guard 😆

[Brigsy]

Give the megane and both clios a wash on Xmas eve.  All badly needed it.

 

In other news, the megane 225 breaker is getting the chop sunday/monday. Needs to go as this drive is too congested for my liking, its a ballache getting any car out thats not at the front 😄

Thanks for reading!!

[Matty]

40 minutes ago, Brigsy said:

Give the megane and both clios a wash on Xmas eve.  All badly needed it.

 

In other news, the megane 225 breaker is getting the chop sunday/monday. Needs to go as this drive is too congested for my liking, its a ballache getting any car out thats not at the front 😄

Thanks for reading!!

Lovely colour the non van dci. Wheels are ace too. What are they off?

[Brigsy]

18 hours ago, Matty said:

Lovely colour the non van dci. Wheels are ace too. What are they off?

The colour attracted me to it compared to most in that silver or flat black. Always thought of it as the poor mans version of the inferno orange clio 182.

Wheels are off a mk1 clio williams. Bought cheap a few years back and refurbed. Worth more than the car now with the williams tax.

[Brigsy]

Updates. 

Well barely fcuk all to update being honest but here goes. Missed a few bits with my old phone dying on nye. 

225 breaker, stripped and chopped between xmas and new year.

I really couldnt be arsed with the hassle of doing it but i needed a rust free qtr, and every povo spec one i viewed was rusty, dented or both. 

Sketchy 9" grinder and its off.

Anyway it did not turn out too bad / pretty painless as ive sold 90% of the bits worth selling netting £500 profit ontop of purchase price and rear qtr for free. Still have another £500 worth of parts to sell, around a grand profit for doing the donkey work, so the labour for fitting the qtr to my yellow r26 and painting is mostly paid for. 

I have provisional dates for March for the bodyshop so wont be too long until that gets sorted.

Bit late but snow pic from last week. Its all fucked off now thankfully.

 

Motivation has picked up a little bit. As per news24 thread i mocked up my g25 660 turbo setup for my kangoo. 

Its all still a work in progress but it looks like its a goer. Still need to make a custom oil return, water hoses, wastegate reference pipework, water hoses etc. Not too much.

Thanks for reading!!

 

[Brigsy]

Updates.

The nortech manifold for the g25 turbo conversion for the Kangoo has been a right fcuk on. I was sold it as repaired/good nick and fairly priced to suit. In the back of my head i knew this would need work but always stay positive eh?

Anyway seller royally f***s me about and it arrives 8 weeks later. As soon as i opened the box i could see the flange was a country mile out with 3mm bow at both ends. Seller obviously oblivious to this.

It was quite obvious that the flange had not been clamped when repaired and its gone on the piss with heat. In hindsight i should have fucked it right off at that point and bought new (still an option) but anyway proceeded to attempt to put it right.

Steps to put it right if anybody has similar issues if interested.

As seen the flange was so far out that if cnc'd or milled flat the flange would be too thin in the centre. With this in mind, it was put it in the press and the flange was supported both ends and the middle was pressed flat. This worked well with it slightly pressed over flat approx 0.5mm so it would pull in. As sods law goes, its never straightforward and welds cracked on runners 1 & 4 at the flange so ended up having that tig welded and added new 1/8 npt bosses for egt probes, as it had unknown ones fitted.

The mainfold at this point was useable but rocked a little when fitted, and when torquing up to the head the bolts were under a bit of tension in the centre to pull it in. I.e. tighten inner nuts and outer need nipping again etc. It was acceptable but needed to be closer.

With this in mind i looked into getting it milled flat. With the manifold shape its not easy to clamp and finding anybody to attempt it is pretty difficult from asking round.

Next option was belt linish the flange flat. This is accepted as close enough for trueing up slightly warped exhaust manifolds after fabrication. Problem is finding a machine shop with a large one, my local fabricators all had ones which were too small for the job. Almost bought a 2nd hand large 3 phase belt linisher for the job but no room for stuff like that for a one off.

Fabricator said spend a couple of hours and hand finish it. I dont have an engineers plate for a flat surface, so going back to my joinery days, i know glass is always flat as fook and available cheap.

I picked up 2x 900 x 300 x 12mm thick toughened pieces of glass off fb marketplace for £5. Can of impact adhesive and 80grit sandpaper stuck on.

Simply push forwards and backwards. The design of the manifold makes it easy as its like using a smoothing plane which i have loads of experience from my joinery days. After 30 mins or so you could see it was starting to true up nicely.

1 hour later

After 2 hours it was almost fully done. Ran out of time being honest or would have went the full monty.

Prob need another hours worth of sanding to get it all the way. As it is, its flat as fook when checked with steel ruler, and bolts up to the head with no issues. Deemed good enough for farmwork and the crush of the gasket will get the rest.

Ballache but doable. If manifold gives any issues when fitted ill buy new. We will see..

Thanks for reading!

[Brigsy]

Updates

210k service for the blue clio on Sat. Its done around 8k since last oil change so due. Mileage will ramp up very soon with site visits planned for work so got it done before its miles over.

Sealey vac pump, valvoline 5/40 and purflux oem filter.  20 min job max, no mess.

Next one 218k, prob be summer.

The drum on the o/s was annoyingly squeaking on low speed braking, which is always brake dust related after new shoe run in. 15 mins to remove, clean and hopefully resolved.

Done a bit to the g25 turbo setup for the Kangoo. Knocked up an oil return from an10 fittings and braided pipe.Fitted.

5mm clearance

It all fits ok, not optimal as they never are on these setups, but i fear the swivel style an fitting im using is not the right solution as it has rubber o rings inside. It has 5mm or so clearance from the tubular manifold and when egts are around 800-900deg peak, the radiant heat emitted is immense which over time might make the orings fail.

I could say fuck it and heat wrap the fitting, but have found a better stainless return pipe solution to try. Reliability is king here and i cant be arsed revisiting due to using unsuitable fittings. Might be overkill but anyway.

Ive ordered some more fittings for the water lines after not finding a perfect route for the coolant feed to the cylinder head side. These conversions are always a pain in the arse to get perfect, but more time spent now getting it right cuts down the chances of fails in the future.

Also fitted a zpo shifter extension/alloy gearknob to the megane r26.

This is a temporary solution as the oem gearknob is at the trimmers being retrimmed in napa leather. I was running a plastic fantastic amazon gearknob temporarily but the shift was terrible as no weight on the knob like oem.

The zpo shifter is billet alloy and around oem gearknob weight. It feels great in use, suprising how much of a difference it makes to shift, clicks in the gate lovely. With added height, the shifter is closer to the steering wheel which is good when driving fast. Downside is its fucking cold to handle in this weather.

Ill prob go back to oem when it arrives, as the normal knob is level with the arm rest when driving. 

Thanks for reading!!

[Dave_Q]

Deffo agree with not using that fitting for turbo drain, needs to slope downhill constantly ideally.

Is it a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo? Ball bearing flow a lot less oil.

[Brigsy]

26 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

Deffo agree with not using that fitting for turbo drain, needs to slope downhill constantly ideally.

Is it a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo? Ball bearing flow a lot less oil.

Bb turbo so has a 1mm restrictor on the feed so wont see loads of flow through the return like unrestricted journal. 

Agree though defo less than optimal on a 90, it seems like a lot of these setups run similar but its a bit dogshit overall. Just flung something together out of the shite box with left overs to see if it was doable.

Ive ordered a stainless flexible return that can be bent to suit. Should be much better, we will see!

 

[vaughant]

Haven't read the whole thread but you have some stunning Renault's, I'm insanely jealous 🤣🤣🤣

[Brigsy]

On 03/02/2026 at 02:17, vaughant said:

Haven't read the whole thread but you have some stunning Renault's, I'm insanely jealous 🤣🤣🤣

Cheers mate! All currently need a little bit of work but useable..never ending cycle😄