beko1987 Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 I haven't even changed the last 2 yet! The cheap ones I fitted have expanded and don't come out easily. If this good weather carries on I'll be able to have another crack at it but I'll do it like I did the 2nd one I have changed, fully undo the plug then stick a rubber mat over the engine bay and turn the car on, shoots it out fairly easily. Β
beko1987 Posted March 7 Author Posted March 7 Went over to mums this morning and gave the cars a good wash! It's been a while... Mine was covered in salt from the m40, and my roof was going mouldy Stepdad's zoe was just filthy from all the back road driving it does (front tyres are scrubbing the outer edge again π) Was a very pleasant few hours! And now their nice and clean again. Both mee polishing and waxing and etc but I cannot be bothered π Β Fat_Pirate, privatewire, FakeConcern and 2 others 5
beko1987 Posted April 4 Author Posted April 4 Arrived far too early for a car boot that looked crap when I drove past at half 7... Parked up a few miles down the road and am giving my radiogram an update it has Once it's done I'll head back and hope a ton of sellers have descended upon it otherwise I'll walk round it since I drove out here then go home π€·Β GrumpiusMaximus 1
beko1987 Posted April 4 Author Posted April 4 Forgot about this, on Tuesday I managed to stop and get a mileage shot 1.8k ish more and I'll have done 10k since owning itΒ privatewire, GrumpiusMaximus and paulplom 3
beko1987 Posted May 29 Author Posted May 29 I've done sweet fa to this all winter, but it is due for an oil change soon. The cheap oil landscape is a vastly different and scary place to 13 months ago when I last bought some...Β Found a trio of oil, filter and air filter for less than I can find a better 5l tub of just oil for https://ebay.us/m/FmMCxk Which will do. It needs to be combined with a good check over to make sure nothing has split or leaked over winter, and new front discs and pads are needed next month as the mild vibrations under mild braking are getting worse.Β Tickman 1
Dick Cheeseburger Posted May 29 Posted May 29 Good to see this one still plodding along. I sold mine back in March as I'd become bored after holding onto it for three and a half years. It was only ever meant to be a stopgap, so it did very well to remain on the fleet for so long. I'll be honest, I actually miss it - the fuel economy, the space and the fact I could throw anything into it and not worry about it.Β Keep yours going for as long as you can - they're great old motors. beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted May 29 Author Posted May 29 5 hours ago, beko1987 said: I've done sweet fa to this all winter, but it is due for an oil change soon. The cheap oil landscape is a vastly different and scary place to 13 months ago when I last bought some...Β Found a trio of oil, filter and air filter for less than I can find a better 5l tub of just oil for https://ebay.us/m/FmMCxk Which will do. It needs to be combined with a good check over to make sure nothing has split or leaked over winter, and new front discs and pads are needed next month as the mild vibrations under mild braking are getting worse.Β Dunno if it's just cos I've bought it now but the ad says Β£47 but I paid Β£36 GrumpiusMaximus 1
beko1987 Posted May 29 Author Posted May 29 1 hour ago, hairnet said: beko you slaaaag Β Technically it's overdue by 3ish months but meh, the countdown still says 3k left (and it drops by 50 miles every key on so is wildly optimistic to what I've driven anyway)Β Which is good cos it won't be done this weekend I doubt
beko1987 Posted May 30 Author Posted May 30 I mostly took the photos incase the filters had fallen out But all is well I've never changef an air filter more than once in a cars ownership π I'll fit a new one then bash it off every year and keep a check of it but this year I can be fancy!Β Not today though, too hot for thatΒ Tickman, privatewire and Fat_Pirate 3
beko1987 Posted June 13 Author Posted June 13 On 01/01/2026 at 13:19, beko1987 said: I hit the internet this morning once the kids went home, and via a Vin number parts search every glow plug I searched for off the part number was 11v. Cool, but the ebay listing I bought my plugs from doesn't list a voltage and I wouldn't trust it if it did. So, I went outside and stripped the engine down quickly I got too excited then as I prodded the 3rd plug connector and it wasn't connected! I connected it, cleared the code and kicked the car over as you see it above but it came back.Β The car didn't start well doing this, which I expected but what I didn't see was the lovely Helen 2 doors up had come out to her car and saw mine fail to start and offered me a jumpstart before she left if I needed. Explained what I was doing and thanked her as now I know where to go if I do ever need one ππ No3 plug was solid as fuck but no4 came out easily and it is indeed an 11v plug The tip doesn't look to have done much but also they've probably not done anything since I fitted them... I put those back in, fully assembled everything then cleared the codes and re checked, still the fault. I then refitted the original glow plug relay and noticed my new one has one less spade than the one on the car... Should probably confirm what it should have really... The end result is stillΒ These seem to be the ideal plugs going by a part number But I'll do some more research first. Car still starts as it did so that's good at least! Or maybe I need to take it somewhere and pay an hours labour for them to properly scan it. Any hooky leads and software about for Nissan? Its only 6 months later, but I made myself go to tesco this morning for stuff I needed AND to get the car nice and hot. Got back, put the freezer stuff away and got out on the car.Β Didn't fuck about this time, straight to the 2 remaining old plugs. Got one loose and out of the threads, placed a thick foam mat and a carpet tile on top of the engine and turned the key until the plug ejected itself. X2.Β 4x bosch plugs now fitted I got my scanner connected, wiped the codes, fired up the car and re read the codes...Β Β No more glow plug code! Will have to wait until November for it to be cold enough to see if it works but I've put all the engine covers back on now so if it doesn't it can stay like it πΒ Currently waiting for one of the cars parked on the road behind my gate to go out for the day as I'd like to get my oil change done today.Β scdan4, Heidel_Kakao, GrumpiusMaximus and 7 others 10
beko1987 Posted June 16 Author Posted June 16 Wasn't fully expecting to see any change in 15/20 degree weather but the engine fires over from 'cold' far far quicker than it did, and I didn't think it used the glow plugs over 12 degrees.Β Has gone back to being eerily quiet too with all the engine covers back on, not sure I like it...Β Scruffy Bodger and privatewire 2
beko1987 Posted June 26 Author Posted June 26 I gambled!Β Its ice cold. The guy said it passed all the machine things and held pressure. Will confirm tomorrow if it's all leaked out but I hope it doesn't π€βοΈΒ Brigsy, privatewire, Wibble and 6 others 9
beko1987 Posted June 26 Author Posted June 26 I wanted to test it, so we've gone out Its fiercely cold still πΒ mk2_craig, privatewire, GrumpiusMaximus and 2 others 5
beko1987 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 Was 5 up today as I took my mum and stepdad out, that with the aircon on full max cold makes it quite sluggish, but it's amazing how being cold makes all thought of speed and being quick evaporate as the longer it takes the longer one can be cold πΒ The range guessometer said we used 50 miles for driving 20... Hopefully a trip to Marlow on Tuesday will sort that out after a punch up the m40 and not local pottering.Β My mum loved it, apparently the air con in their zoe works and is cold but isn't very powerful. I found if we closed the outer vents the big box that runs it all behind the dash pushed even colder air out the 2 centre vents privatewire and paulplom 2
beko1987 Posted June 28 Author Posted June 28 Nipped out this morning and upon returning there was space behind the back gate, so I got on with my oil change!Β Well, first I dropped the undertray The engine was still quite hot so I fetched the half can of waxoyl/hammerite stuff and after a vague light wire brush of the worst flaky bits put a nice thick coat all over everywhere I could reach After half an hour I got to the oil. No images because it was so warm still it gushed out way too fast and overflowed my drain pan thing. Ended up using my hand to hold the drain plug and stem the flow which was hot and oily. Soon sorted though and I looked at the 14 month old air filter Which then got replaced by a go faster red one Used the last quarter of the waxoyl on the rear end, all up inside the subframe and a good but patchy coat on the rear arms to finish the tin. Needs the wheels taking off to fully get everywhere.Β Now I need 4 showers to get rid of the waxoyl that I'm covered in Wibble, 320touring, Coprolalia and 5 others 8
beko1987 Posted July 3 Author Posted July 3 Came over to my friends at 4pm and we got to the qashqai. First up I jacked it up a bit and slid underneath.Β The oil is rhe sump, it has a tiny little weep. It got cleaned up and marked as 'keep an eye on it' and I topped the oil off for now. If it leaks quite alot over the next week or so we'll have it off and re sealed.Β Engine bay was filthy but pressure washed up a treat! A wobbly gearknob could be either the gear stick itself or the bushes in the car. Seems to have a load of slop both ends That went fast, so we got the pressure washer out Tons of mud poured from everywhere but the under side is very clean, most of the rear subframe and associated still has tons of paint on it!Β We did find another top class repair on one door after we gave it a good wash But meh, it scrubbed up nicely and my friend even washed his touran and got geeky with the brushes Coprolalia, Wibble and 320touring 3
beko1987 Posted July 3 Author Posted July 3 Going through the book pack we found deep in the glove box it was a well loved car once. Nissan stamped to about 50k then regular servicing in Cornwall.Β Β 320touring and Wibble 2
beko1987 Posted July 4 Author Posted July 4 Went back over this morning to look at the handbrake. 2 very new rear discs fitted, I was almost hopeful it was just crap adjustment...Β ah no, snapped passenger side cable π’ Need one of those then. Everything else is very cleanΒ That job abandoned, I tightened up all the wheel nuts as the wheel I removed was quite loose. I then found 1 missing entirely from the other back wheel π‘ Luckily I bought 5 nuts when I replaced my locking ones and had 1 spare that was still in the car, so I got that and fitted it.Β Next I had a look at the gear shifter as it's almost possible to loose neutral with all the slop. It all started well enough until I dropped part of the bushing for 1 cable and it rolled under the bloody shifter. So out that fully came The broken part is some rod thst provides the lateral movement. There is a bodge that can be done but I didn't want to do thst today. Is all a bit worn though Retrieving the part was impossible so we bit the bullet and stripped the entire centre console out (5 screws, 2 clips and unplug 2 wires, would have been faster to do that first)Β This revealed a ton of historic spilled drinks and mould.Β At this point we split. We'd lost one key important part of a cables bushings so I spent 2 hours hunting for it before finding it rolled under his car (gravel drive) and he dettol'd everything and we gave it all a good vacuum (partly to try and find the bush part.)Β Smashed it all back together and sort of ended up where we started but the car smells a ton better now. We took it for a drive to check it still got all the gears and it did and it's so bloody silent. I've got a honking great dmf in my car and I still feel and hear a ton more than in this. It's doing 42.7 it says too over the 280 miles she's driven since I reset all the computers after we bought it. I'm quite impressed. It's utterly gutless getting up to speed but once there is fine.Β Time to find a handbrake cable then strip all the console back out again as it'll make fitting the cables much easier.Β Its mot is 5th August... Maybe one day we'll actually buy a really nice car thst doesn't have issues we should have spotted when viewing but hey ho! I think we got away with it again though π€Β Β Wibble, Coprolalia and UltraWomble 3
beko1987 Posted July 10 Author Posted July 10 Went over to my friends after work to change the handbrake cable. Wasn't too awful tbh.Β Its had recent new discs and pads on the rear so that bit came apart nicely Various photos for reference Then I started dismantling the shoes And the rear shoe which contains the handbrake cable fell off I'd stripped the centre console out before starting so 3x10mm's underneath and the broken cable was free The Β£15 new one was refitted And after not too long the drum reassembled Put the brakes back on, then jacked the drivers side up and adjusted both to locked on the backed off. The drivers side with the old cable needed a squeeze more adjustment on its side for its mildly longer cable but seems to hold fairly evenly and strong now so we'll call that done!Β Mot next for it. And now I know how to do it for when mine snap paulplom, vtec-e, mk2_craig and 6 others 9
beko1987 Posted August 4 Author Posted August 4 I do belive I have a cv joint going bad on the drivers side, have a click on hard lock (roght hand lock) I can reproduce π’Β Hoping it's not so fucked it fails the mot it'll have soon and I can change it another day with a j&r gamble My friends wife's qq disgraced itself too last night. The clutch pedal 'went all floppy on her'. She had it recovered back last night and they had to dump it on an adjacent road to their house. After work today me and my friend went over to it and thankfully the clutch master cylinder retaining clip has disintegrated. Clipped it back on enough that we could get it back on their driveway and I'll soon be learning how to fit and bleed it up. I'm not too upset as it's something my own could do at any second so it'd be good to know how the job goes before that happens/I chicken out and change it anyway.Β Wibble 1
beko1987 Posted August 4 Author Posted August 4 Would I be better to: Whole new pattern non genuine replacement driveshaft Replace just the cv joint in my otherwise genuine one?Β My only hesitation is the inner joint ran for ages with a split boot before I replaced it and more grease leaked out since then as my cable ties were shit, so a whole new shaft would sort that however it's also fine (I think, can hear the clicking clearly from the drivers wheel with both front windows down pulling out of certain sharp right junctions slowly)Β
vtec-e Posted August 4 Posted August 4 I had a clicking cv joint that lasted over 100000 miles on the starship mileage Civic. I did drive the car with some mechanical sympathy. ULEZ saved me having to fix it, so I never knew how bad it was. I would monitor the clicking for now, and cut back on the wheel spin pulling out of junctions πΒ Brigsy and beko1987 1 1
Mr Pastry Posted August 4 Posted August 4 It doesn't sound as if it's anywhere near bad enough to be an MOT fail, but if you are going to do anything and the cost isn't critical, then it is quicker and easier to replace the whole shaft.Β Β Most pattern shafts are okayΒ - they have to be, as they are safety-related.Β J&R are good in my experience. beko1987 and Pat Earrings 1 1
beko1987 Posted August 4 Author Posted August 4 28 minutes ago, vtec-e said: I had a clicking cv joint that lasted over 100000 miles on the starship mileage Civic. I did drive the car with some mechanical sympathy. ULEZ saved me having to fix it, so I never knew how bad it was. I would monitor the clicking for now, and cut back on the wheel spin pulling out of junctions πΒ That's good to hear then, it hasn't been clicking for very long. Annoyingly as I pull out if my parking space I go from shail to tarmac with a big height difference, with the steering hard right for the corner... Probably give it hell every day!Β Shall monitor, thanks! Certainly until after the mot...Β It never gets wheelspun out of junctions out of sympathy for rhe clutch which currently works perfectly ππΒ vtec-e 1
beko1987 Posted August 4 Author Posted August 4 5 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said: It doesn't sound as if it's anywhere near bad enough to be an MOT fail, but if you are going to do anything and the cost isn't critical, then it is quicker and easier to replace the whole shaft.Β Β Most pattern shafts are okayΒ - they have to be, as they are safety-related.Β J&R are good in my experience. I've had the drivers side off before at rhe hub end, so at least 1/4 of the job will be easy!Β From a quick vague search a pair (drivers and passengers) is cheaper than 1x drivers side! Not done a proper part no hunt yet though.Β Almost did go j&r last year before just changing the inner boot but they had stock issues at the time (which is why I went for the boot) but the prices are all different now.Β
paulplom Posted August 5 Posted August 5 My van has had a clicking drive shaft turning right for 40k and three years. I just drive around it and use light throttle on a right turn. Never really got any worse. vtec-e and beko1987 1 1
beko1987 Posted August 5 Author Posted August 5 44 minutes ago, paulplom said: My van has had a clicking drive shaft turning right for 40k and three years. I just drive around it and use light throttle on a right turn. Never really got any worse. Nice! It's only a few turns on my regular routes I make that really make it obvious but annoyingly some of those have bloody potholes in them so the wheel ends up being hit at an angle which doesn't help. Or our work car park which is a 5mph crawl on mostly hard right lock (got to go clockwise (bar those who don't) , they get pissy if you do 15/20 etc)Β I only noticed it as I was off last week and took the kids to various places so ended up in new and slow areas with no music playing and started to hear it.Β I'll ignore for now though, it wants new front discs and pads more urgently* and the mot before that Β
Brigsy Posted August 5 Posted August 5 The renault cv's click forever, dont worry about it if the boot is intact/cv has grease in. Its only old vauxhalls that you needed to watch clicky cv's, as they tended to explode shortly after from experience/driving like i stole it back in the day. When i built my kangoo, both outer cvs were clicking as used shafts/budget build. Still took 380hp for monthsπ€£Β only changed as i had to do the clutch. Also looking at the black cashcow/gear selector pic, it has a bodge clamp over one of the gearcable ends in the engine bay. Check there's no play in the socket, as the bodge clamps are fitted to stop cable popping off, i guess somebody has had issues before Westbay, beko1987 and vtec-e 2 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now