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1987 Ford Sierra Sapphire 1.8L - All sorted, back on the road - see page 31


Peter C

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10 hours ago, sierraman said:

I’d be inclined to no mask so closely, it’ll build a ridge up which you’ll have the devils own work cutting through. 

Agreed.

This was just a localised trial area and I wanted the old and new paints side by side for comparison purposes.

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Soft mask - use wide tape and roll the edge of the masking tape back under on itself to make a like a "loop". The paint will then have a nice soft feathered edge over the space of a few MM. It makes a much less noticeable repair, and with a bit of compounding it'll blend in even better.

The guy in the video here is folding it fairly tight, but if you leave the fold very wide (10mm+) it gives an even softer edge

 

 

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  • Peter C changed the title to 1987 Ford Sierra Sapphire 1.8L - I've started on the mechanicals, see page 14

Now that I have the bodywork situation under control, I wanted to spend a bit of special mid-week time in the garage and take a look at the engine side of things.

I removed the fan shroud, fan, thermostat and housing and water pump. All very easy, as you can imagine.

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I want to replace the thermostat and water pump, mostly because the coolant that I drained today is old and smelly. I don't know what condition they are in but I figured that if I am doing the cam belt, I might as well do the other bits.

One problem. I can't separate the fan clutch from the water pump shaft. I've locked the pulley in a vice, by wrapping an old fan belt around the pulley and squeezing it tight in the vice but no matter how much effort I put in, I can't get the locking nut to budge. I don't even know which way it should turn to undo.

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I'm now in two minds whether to put the water pump back in as it is, with a new gasket and hope for the best.

Any ideas how to loosen the nut?

 

 

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1 minute ago, Peter C said:

Now that I have the bodywork situation under control, I wanted to spend a bit of special mid-week time in the garage and take a look at the engine side of things.

I removed the fan shroud, fan, thermostat and housing and water pump. All very easy, as you can imagine.

176.thumb.JPG.b48bf9a1e66eb6435e73743a4550b657.JPG

I want to replace the thermostat and water pump, mostly because the coolant that I drained today is old and smelly. I don't know what condition they are in but I figured that if I am doing the cam belt, I might as well do the other bits.

One problem. I can't separate the fan clutch from the water pump shaft. I've locked the pulley in a vice, by wrapping an old fan belt around the pulley and squeezing it tight in the vice but no matter how much effort I put in, I can't get the locking nut to budge. I don't even know which way it should turn to undo.

177.thumb.JPG.53997953d9595bfb0af1c044e207fcde.JPG

178.thumb.JPG.b40331a7f03bc847c2c06bfe25dcb80d.JPG

I'm now in two minds whether to put the water pump back in as it is, with a new gasket and hope for the best.

Any ideas how to loosen the nut?

 

 

Left hand thread? 

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10 minutes ago, Low ontime said:

Well locked in Locking mole grips and a sharp hammer blow works if you don’t have the large spanner size req… 

The gap between the back of the clutch and the pulley is quite narrow. I used an adjustable spanner as I don’t have the correct size one. I don’t even know what size it is.

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28 minutes ago, MorrisItalSLX said:

Worth putting the impeller of the water pump in the vice given it’s getting replaced anyway?

And if I don’t succeed in getting the clutch bolt off, I might end up with a knackered water pump!

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25 minutes ago, Peter C said:

And if I don’t succeed in getting the clutch bolt off, I might end up with a knackered water pump!

Surely there is no reason to take the fan clutch off unless you are going to replace the water pump? 

Looking at the pumps on ebay, the shaft does appear to have a left hand thread.  

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12 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Surely there is no reason to take the fan clutch off unless you are going to replace the water pump? 

My point precisely!

12 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Looking at the pumps on ebay, the shaft does appear to have a left hand thread.  

Left hand thread = turn clockwise to undo?

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24 minutes ago, Peter C said:

My point precisely!

Left hand thread = turn clockwise to undo?

Is it a separate locknut, or it is a hex formed on the clutch hub?

If it is all one piece, then with a left hand thread the hub would undo clockwise.  A locknut would have to be backed off anticlockwise.  But if it doesn't need to come off, don't.

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1 hour ago, Rightnider said:

It was many years since I last replaced a Pinto water pump, but I’m fairly sure the viscous coupling is to be loosened anti clockwise. I think I have a special tool for it,  was readily available, at least back in the day. 

If @lisbon_road doesn’t find his tool, could I borrow yours please?

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7 minutes ago, Peter C said:

If @lisbon_road doesn’t find his tool, could I borrow yours please?

My tool is a bit of lasered out steel that grips on the M6 screws on the front of the hub.  It stops the hub rotating and you put a thin spanner in on the left hand thread of the coupling.  It is a home made modified tool, though it definitely worked.  I really don't want it now.  I also have a Pinto tappet adjusting spanner which I suspect has spread a little, so if I send a parcel, we can put that in too.  But if someone else has a better tool, get it, that's fine.  

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2 hours ago, lisbon_road said:

My tool is a bit of lasered out steel that grips on the M6 screws on the front of the hub.  It stops the hub rotating and you put a thin spanner in on the left hand thread of the coupling.  It is a home made modified tool, though it definitely worked.  I really don't want it now.  I also have a Pinto tappet adjusting spanner which I suspect has spread a little, so if I send a parcel, we can put that in too.  But if someone else has a better tool, get it, that's fine.  

It seems there are currently no alternatives. If your offer stands, I would be pleased to receive another gift from you but on this occasion please let me contribute to p&p costs.

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