Took me engine out NOW WITH BONUS GEARBOX CONTENT

[Mash]

Thought it was about time I got to grips with the engine rebuild on my Triumph 1300. It's way overdue and I've been meaning to do something with it for a couple of years or more. That oil looks a bit black!!

 

I've found a place near Lincoln who I think I'm going to entrust the major work to and they'll do an unleaded head in with it. Won't be particularly cheap but the car deserves it. Whilst the motor's away I'm going to delve into the gearbox and get the servo properly installed.

 

Booked in for BMC day at Peterborough on August 1st so that's the target!

 

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Hey nice work!!! I've just put the enigne back in me crab after changing the clutch. I'll update the tat blog with it soon.

[seth]

So is that how you take the engine out of one of these then? Separate from Sump/gearbox casing?I wouldn't bother going to the expense of an unleaded valve seat conversion on this unless something has already got damaged. The Triumph seats were pretty hard from the factory and in many, many miles on straight unleaded we've never had any valve seat recession. Should you ever find that you are getting some its not exactly a big job to whip the head off and deal with it then.

[Richard]

How does all that work? Is it similar to the SAAB set up?

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Little shudder looking at the third pic, that's what my garage floor looked like for most of the last year Interesting pics though - I know very little about how FWD works. Where does the oil pump get its feed from? Where my pump has a little pipe, yours is just a flat plate.

[Lankytim]

Mmmmm... Solid inner wings!

[Gompo]

Who is the company in Lincoln, if you dont mind?Cheers..

[VWPowered]

yay good on ya squire, be like driving a new motor

[Mr Lobster]

Good work! I do like to see peoples garage expoits Motivates me to do a bit as well.

[Mash]

So is that how you take the engine out of one of these then? Separate from Sump/gearbox casing?

I could have taken it all out as one unit but this way I can still move the car around a bit until I'm ready to work on the gearbox. It's just a case of separating the driveshafts (remembering to put big jubilee clips round the Rotoflexes!) and taking off the rear mounting now.On the other hand, it is possible to extract the gearbox internals from inside the car if you have to.Peter, the oil pick-up pipe is not shown in the bottom pic - I took it off to avoid damage, it goes up into the side of the pump.It's quite a clever system if a little tall and it's funny in that the clutch is kind of exposed (albeit with a tin cover over it). The drive is taken out the back of the engine through the input shaft then down and back underneath through the main shafts to the differential set. To be honest it's over complex but nicely engineered. The result of this is that the starter ring gear is at the front of the engine on its own and the starter turns anti-clockwise.

[seth]

Could be an ideal time to get the 4WD kit that I think Canley Classics have.

[Mash]

Ha, somebody's already tried that with a 1500! You get tons of torque but the car tops out around 45mph!

[M'coli]

Is there a workshop manual diagram of the engine or gearbox that you could take a photo of and post up for us to go "oooh" at? I'm fascinated!

[Station]

What's that strange 'nub' on the side of the block?

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

The hexagonal thing? It's the oil pressure relief valve.

[Minimad5]

Get some GUNK on that !

[Mr Lobster]

GUNK

That reminds me. Was it Gunk that had an advert in some of the classic car mags about ten - fifteen years ago that had some lass covered in oil with the tagline 'Degrease a loved one' ? Seem to remember someone wrote into PC complaining it was sexist. No it wasn't, it was great!

[Rod/b]

That advert is featured in the new edition of PC, Lobster. Well worth a look It's actually a good issue - 25th anniversary edition.

[seth]

That advert is featured in the new edition of PC, Lobster. Well worth a look It's actually a good issue - 25th anniversary edition.

30th *coughs. But nice to see that advert again Is the FWD engine block the same as a rwd one? I'm struggling to see a difference unless the lower "sump" flange was altered?

[HillmanImp]

So is that how you take the engine out of one of these then? Separate from Sump/gearbox casing?I wouldn't bother going to the expense of an unleaded valve seat conversion on this unless something has already got damaged. The Triumph seats were pretty hard from the factory and in many, many miles on straight unleaded we've never had any valve seat recession. Should you ever find that you are getting some its not exactly a big job to whip the head off and deal with it then.

Thats interesting. I was looking at doing this at some point over the summer on the GT6.How would I tell if I was geting valve seat recession?

[Minimad5]

How would I tell if I was geting valve seat recession?

+1 ... i'm currently in the process of stripping the Rebel engine, and want to make sure everything is fine.So would also like to know.

[whitevanman]

The valve seats will be shopping at Lidl.............

[Minimad5]

haha,Is it autoshite comedian day today ? I guess aslong as the Valves sit okay, and the seats + Valves are not pitted then everything is okay. Or should i look for more ?

[peter9000uk]

haha,I guess aslong as the Valves sit okay, and the seats + Valves are not pitted then everything is okay. Or should i look for more ?

See if they leak would be a good idea!

[seth]

Yes, if you've already stripped an engine then inspect the valves and seats and if they are pitted beyond a normal hand grind job then they'd need changing anyway.But really valve seat recession is something that happens over time and so checking the rocker clearances every so often will tell you what's going on. If they are continually going tight, particularly exhaust and not inlet, then the exhaust valves are starting to sink. The Triumph manual says you should check and adjust if necessary every 6000 miles anyway and if the clearances have wandered at all from the factory setting its amazing how much difference getting them spot on will make.The thing is even if it does start happening all you need to do is re-set the clearances and you can carry on driving until you can plan to whip the head off again and get the seats done. Or even get a second head all ready in advance and the car might only be off the road for a matter of hours.

[Mash]

My parents had a day out in Lincolnshire last Tuesday and dropped the engine off at GA Classic Engines in Sutton on Trent. He reckons it'll be done by the end of next week which I was pleasantly surprised at.

 

Spurred on, dad took out the gearbox and cleaned all the shit out of the sump at work then he and I set about dismantling it today. He was a bit dubious about it to start with but armed with the factory manual I was very enthusiastic and so far so good despite this being my first delve into a 'box. It doesn't seem particularly bad and most of the wear as predicted seems to be on the syncros. I already have some of the parts including the reverse gear which looks a bit chewed so no wonder it was a pig to engage.

 

More of a concern is the input gear which has corroded quite badly (see pics). This was new 12 years ago so it's had a decent innings but I wasn't expecting it to be so bad especially as it was supposed to have been manufactured to a better spec to the originals. I shall now have to fork out 75 quid for another

 

Anyway, next weekend should see more progress and I now have a list of a few more cogs and things I need to get. Fun isn't it!!

 

 

The input gear: