EightMegs' Terrible Toyotas

[tooSavvy]

Never mind....

Across the globe, Toyyo putt-putts are clattering along with 'fosters carton' cardboard gaskets and coke tin 'shimming' for the shells.

You Will Survive.... 👍😉

🚙💨

[mark165]

Unlucky! What's your plan for it now, with the low oil pressure etc?

[EightMegs]

2 hours ago, mark165 said:

Unlucky! What's your plan for it now, with the low oil pressure etc?

I've been phoning breakers and inquiring about replacement engines, but I haven't had much luck. I spoke to a breaker in Sheffield who had crushed one two weeks ago and another one in NI who said all of his 1.6s were seized from sitting. I'm probably going to take the cylinder head and sump off and work out how shagged it really is. It's still making 14 bar in the cylinders that don't have a head gasket leak and the cross hatching is still visible on an endoscope, so the top end seems to be in relatively good condition. I'll probably pop off some bearing shells and see how bad it is at the bottom end before I decide to replace the whole thing.

[junkyarddog]

I wouldn't bother taking off the sump,the bottom end is more than likely ok.

Just pull the head,skim and back together with new gaskets.

Not sure if these have stretch bolts,probably do,but they can be measured to see if they are still in tolerance. 

 

[EightMegs]

3 hours ago, junkyarddog said:

I wouldn't bother taking off the sump,the bottom end is more than likely ok.

Just pull the head,skim and back together with new gaskets.

Not sure if these have stretch bolts,probably do,but they can be measured to see if they are still in tolerance. 

 

I just thought I'd check the screen on the pickup to see why it's taking forever to build oil pressure.

[EightMegs]

Valve train seems surprisingly mint for a car this hanging.

I'm going to have to borrow a rattle gun at work to extract this bastard though.

[EightMegs]

This engine mount is torturing me at the moment. I can't get the two nuts off the welded studs, and there's not enough room for a breaker bar. It needs to come off either way for access to the water pump pulley bolts. I've taken out the bolt through the rubber and lowered it down a bit and hopefully I can get to it with a long extension from underneath.

[EightMegs]

Got the engine mount off from underneath with a long extension nicked from work. The manual says you need to remove the drivers wheel and the water pump pulley to get the timing cover off, but the access isn't that bad with the wheel at full lock, and I don't have an offset spanner for the pulley and even with the engine mount off I couldn't get it clear of the chassis leg, or at least not far enough to get a socket on it.

Timing belt wasn't stretched, I think it's actually too long. Got the dizzy off and a few of the heat shield bolts as well, should have the head off tomorrow if the exhaust manifold cooperates. A fairly reputable engineering firm in Poole quoted me £45 for a skim so it's a no brainer.

[EightMegs]

The drive gear for the intake camshaft on the 4A-F is split with a spring in between to take up the backlash. If you don't bolt them together, they'll just fly apart when you take off the bearing caps.

The exhaust manifold wasn't too difficult to get loose with a bit of heat. I'm grateful I did it before the fuel pump since today I discovered it pumps on the return stroke, so as I drew the bolts out, it sprayed petrol all over the engine bay. Just need to get the thermostat housing out and the head can come off.

[stuboy]

good luck !!

[mark165]

Brilliant! Proper job.

[EightMegs]

My plan to take the head off with the inlet manifold still attached was thwarted by it being attached to a hard coolant pipe which I wasn't willing to remove.

Removing the thermostat housing proved to be a complete pain in the arse as the flange was completely encrusted with corrosion and the hoses refused to come off, with one tearing before I finally wrenched it loose, spilling rusty coolant all over the starter motor in the process.

The bolts were 10mm with twelve pointed heads but my smallest twelve pointed socket was a 14. I ended up doing a tour of Bournemouth hardware shops and motor factors but the smallest one I could find was an 11mm from Screwfix. In the end I borrowed one from the garage that does our minibuses at work. 

As suspected it was blown between two cylinders and it had actually managed to blow some head gasket into the water jacket of one of the cylinders. Amazing how what started as an intermittent misfire can develop into this much of a cluster fuck.

I've haphazardly flung the distributor and fuel pump to the back of the engine bay without disconnecting them. I figure the less shit I remove, the better my odds are of successful reassembly.

[tooSavvy]

I made a comment, on a Utoob, concerning carb removal on a Carina II.

Guy didn't mention how you got around the water feed [through carb!!] without flooding the inlet. That is, without dropping the water level below the carb/hole in the inlet manifold...

Also, I suspect some studs/bolts go into the waterways and require sealant... 🤔

I haven't done a carb so can't quote from experience 😐

🚙💨

[mark165]

Fantastic, had the same thing on the corolla with coolant going where it shouldn't.

Might be worth changing the O ring on the distributor whilst it's out?

I've found on all my shonky Toyotas that they tend to resemble plasticine at this point.

[EightMegs]

3 hours ago, mark165 said:

Fantastic, had the same thing on the corolla with coolant going where it shouldn't.

Might be worth changing the O ring on the distributor whilst it's out?

I've found on all my shonky Toyotas that they tend to resemble plasticine at this point.

I hadn't thought of doing that to be honest, thank you for the tip!