Rover 200 (R8) - what to look out for?

[Soundwave]

I know there's a few 200 owners around this parish, so just curious - when buying one, what are the potential pitfalls? 

Unlike my Volvo thread, this isn't a "should I or not?" thread, it's a "I already have, exactly how much am I going to regret it?" one. 😅 Colleckshun occurs tomorrow afternoon. What bits should I examine before awkwardly handing over the rest of the cash anyway because I'm too inhibited to say no? 

 

Picturemagraphs - typical FB Marketplace standard. 

 

[catsinthewelder]

As you're not @Ghosty you should be safe from OMGHGF with the Honda engine 😇 

With mine the main issue is lots of non structural rust (and the fact that it won't start).

[willswitchengage]

Everything on mine has so far been stuff that, from reading up, affects ALL R8s (broken electronics and a leaky boot). From me being an expert following two months of ownership I would just recommend general negotiating tactics and basic old car checks - rust and MoT history etc.

Brexit happens soon - this will get you nicely ready for our BRITISH FUTURE.

[DoctorRetro]

Yep. Rusty rear arches / sills. 

Immobiliser fob playing up. 

Let it run up to temperature and make sure fan kicks in. 

Clutch will feel heavy if you aren't used to it.

Gearbox linkages can get a bit wobbly. 

 

To be fair, even the absolutely hanging 200k + mile R8s I've had felt better to drive than cars half the age and miles. Mind you, I'm a bit biased. 

That one looks pretty smart, as long as not super expensive (they don't tend to make a lot of money), it should be a decent buy. 

 

[Ghosty]

As above, rear sill ends, rear arches, failing central locking motors, potential for HGF.
Being a Honda engine, if the CHECK ENGINE light is on then turn the ignition on then pull back the carpet in the passenger footwell, there's a little porthole to a light on the ECU that will flash codes at you.
If nothing happens when you turn the key then the main fuel relay has died. It's located behind the centre console trim on the passenger side. 
Rover people charge through the nose for used relay boxes because they think they're NLA, and some weirdo on the owners club forum even made his own and described the process at length, but it's the same part used on early 90s Civics and CRXs and you can get them on Rock Auto under $20.
If it's an auto, change the gearbox fluid. 

[AnthonyG]

As above, particularly any issues with immobilisers/keys as anything which requires  manufacturers records ain’t happening.

I know of a couple of Rovers (not R8s) which were scrapped due to immobilisers working too well 😉!

[vulgalour]

• Blocked sunroof drains
• Rot on rear arch, particularly outer where it meets the sill and around the small trim
• Rot on sill lower seam where it meets the floor, outside of the car, from B pillar back to wheel arch
• Dirty idle control valve can cause idling issues
• Worn out rear suspension bushes, particularly trailing arm and lower arms
• Worn out shock absorbers front and rear
• Holed backbox.  Replacements are often wrong
• Failed catalytic converter.  Replacements are often rubbish and wrong
• Leaking A pillar trims due to holes not being sealed up, usually shows up as wet front footwells
• Leaking windscreen seal due to bonding failing, usually shows up as wet front footwells
• Rear light clusters letting water in
• Boot vents letting water in
• Rusty spare wheel wheel (due to the above)
• Worn out driver's seatbelt
• Noisy power steering pump
• Leaking power steering pipe connections (they all seem to do it, not usually a real issue, just to be aware of it)
• Radiator lower edge rotting out and leaking
• Spark plug threads stripping in head, normally due to previous overtightening.  Sometimes shows up as a plug unscrewing itself, or getting spat out.
• Steel wheels bashed into every single curb in town, resulting in super bumpy ride

 

Er... there's probably more, but that's what I can remember for now.