Yay MOT time

[pauldoubleyou]

I usually wouldn’t bother with stuff like this but hey, not posted in a while.

 

 

Mot day today on the Peugeot which aside from track rod ends, a shock and tyres hasn’t been touched in about a year. So today, I didn’t really know what to expect.

 

Failed on corrosion which is a bit of a shock considering the car is rust free.. on top

 

 

Looks like it’s been damaged maybe by a jack and rotted away. It’s been over a year since I fired the welder up so gonna give this a blast and see if we can’t push it through it’s test this weekend. Luckily I already have an arm and a balljoint, so aside from sundries and part of a combo van for a plate I’m not bad off really. Unless I can’t weld upside down.

 

 

 

 

Need to find the wax oil to do the inside first, and then I imagine within a year the other side. Not easy on the drive in scottish weather. Well shall see.

 

 

 

 

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[Mally]

Welding upside down is more difficult.

Don't get any in your ears.

[pauldoubleyou]

Welding upside down is more difficult.
Don't get any in your ears.

Top tip. I’m just gonna spot it every inch or so then join them up with more spots. Best thing is I have enough of this panel to get the welder settings right on the bench. Bonus is I’m not directly under it, more to the side. It’s gonna be dark in an hour so not starting now - but found some wax oil so it’s ready to go tomorrow

Pikey gas for the win




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[pauldoubleyou]

Just phoned the garage also and asked if he wants to see it unpainted for the retest - the answer was “don’t care” which is always good. Any little shitty pinholes at least can be filled with waxoil


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[loserone]

Don't patches need to be continuous seam welds?

[sutty2006]

I hate welding upside down. Fucking hurts. Especially when they go down your neck. 

[pauldoubleyou]

Don't patches need to be continuous seam welds?

 

I think the key word is “continuous” as in no gaps. As in you can tack weld in inch gaps, then “spot” weld over and over again between your tacks so it looks like a seam weld. With the thickness of car metal it’s gonna blow through without a doubt otherwise?

 

Like this is what I was gonna do (welding starts at 1:45) and tbh before I start if anyone can tell me this will fail please do

 

 

Yanks call it stitch welding I think. I’ve seen some welded patches on cars - particularly a x type I owned for a bit - and mine will be better.

 

 

 

 

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[loserone]

I don't know the answer, just don't want you going back and failing on it!

[Mally]

It'll be reet. 

[sutty2006]

It’ll be better than the hole it had originally. And it sounds like the tester doesn’t care too much anyways. You could probably glue a patch on with seam sealer and plough a tin of waxoil at it and he’ll be happy. 

[tooSavvy]

3 minutes ago, sutty2006 said:

It’ll be better than the hole it had originally. And it sounds like the tester doesn’t care too much anyways. You could probably glue a patch on with seam sealer and plough a tin of waxoil at it and he’ll be happy. 

Have we had the debate about 'panel adhesives'..... Like they glue* Jumbo wings on.

*see: A8 Aldi

[sutty2006]

This was acceptable for my discovery 1 on MOT the week before I bought it. Glued in patches of steel for the rear crossmember. 2 weeks later it all collapsed while off roading. Needless to say, it was replaced with zintec box section and actual welds. 

[pauldoubleyou]

I’ve sent all my cars there for the last seven years. If something fails you know it’s proper knackered.

I sent her zafira there once and it failed on a bush and a tyre. It was over new year and she wanted it to go to England two days later, and they couldn’t get a retest in.

I sent it to Arnold Clark and they failed it on about five new things. Won’t make that mistake again


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[rainagain]

Fun fact I once glued a sill repair on my 307 using industrial metal epoxy, it passed the mot no problem but then fell off one day when I jacked it up at front. Turns out the proper method is to drill a series of holes in both the repair panel and the original car metal. Making sure they don’t line up. The adhesive then mushrooms into these holes preventing ‘peel failure’ which is what happened to mine. I have since welded the same panel back on.

[pauldoubleyou]

Fun fact I once glued a sill repair on my 307 using industrial metal epoxy, it passed the mot no problem but then fell off one day when I jacked it up at front. Turns out the proper method is to drill a series of holes in both the repair panel and the original car metal. Making sure they don’t line up. The adhesive then mushrooms into these holes preventing ‘peel failure’ which is what happened to mine. I have since welded the same panel back on.

I probably should have learned, the last 307 I had on the drive had no sills in it at all. Think that was an 02. Shame really as it was a good runabout for the £125 I paid for it.


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[rusty998]

5 hours ago, pauldoubleyou said:

and tbh before I start if anyone can tell me this will fail please do

You will be fine,  I often do the same due to thin metal or run the chance of blowing holes,  

Can I ask, are you going to waxoil inside before you weld ?

If you are you could burn the car to the ground due to the internal fire risk,  

Drill a hole after and spray the waxoil inside then rubber bung it, 

Hope this helps 

Oh and welding on your back sucks almighty Balls!

Ask me how I know.......

Good luck 

 

[pauldoubleyou]

Well I’m not amazingly proud of my welding as I literally hate being upside down, but first pass looks almost as good as hammered dogshit. Point is all the gaps filled, one continuous line, ground down and redid a few bits.

 

Added a drain hole and all waxoiled. It actually looked quite smart once it was flap disked down.

 

Thankful it’s done. Laid on the floor all morning in 4 degrees is not fun. I’d actually be confident to say even if I had to strip all the waxoil off it looks like a tidier job than I’d anticipated.

 

 

 

Balljoint and spring fun tomorrow then in for a retest.

 

 

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[pauldoubleyou]

So the spring was fun. No pics but the new one was almost double the length of the shock. Spring compressors, I knew at the start, were gonna be a no go. And in trying I managed to snap one as it let go. Still not found half of it, think it’s next door. Anyway a wander down the garage and admitting defeat meant my local friendly mechanic did it for a tenner and a bottle of coke. So that was done yesterday. £29 for a spring.

 

I tell you what though, moving to today I have never seen such a stupid pissarse design for balljoint placement.

 

 

ITS SCREWED INTO THE HUB

 

 

Yesterday was one of them days. You know where you can’t catch a break? There was no way the old one was coming off with the hub in situ.

 

I don’t even own a socket at 43mm. I don’t even think I could find one outside of eBay. So a monkey wrench it was.

 

 

So I’ve had to knacker the inner cv boot getting the hub off, so now I need one of them, and it took a Mash hammer, heat and a bloody big persuader to get the old one off. It’s literally impossible to do with the hub on the car as when you put torque on it the whole hub moves freely. No way to stop it.

 

All done just waiting on the (weirdly specific / triangular inner) cv boot tomorrow. Fuck this MOT I swear to god, it’s been the worst.

 

 

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[pauldoubleyou]

Passed. Another chapter eh.

Always nice to know you can at least weld to MOT standard


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[Crispian_J_Hotson]

Champion. I have the disco going through this week, it'll pass tho because it is 38.2 % better than the last time it passed..

[rainagain]

Ah the 307 the car that loves you back as you try and fix it. 
 

It’s almost like they want to go to the bridge. 

[fatharris]

Looks like a damn fine welding attempt, happy with that.