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1951 Pontiac Chieftain


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Posted

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Tried dark blue, as close to the color of the roof I could get. I think this is firewall color.

 

Gonna strip the firewall down as best as I can, rub it back, rust treatment and paint.

 

Phil

Posted

Something arrived in the mail.

 

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I have a jar with a pump in it! It's dirty. But, not bad for $30.

 

Phil

Posted

Jar looks good cleaned up a little, on location.

 

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I had to stretch the seals a little.

 

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Apply vacuum, let off, get water!

 

Phil

  • Like 16
Posted

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Fully cleaned up. All the rust cleaned up, old washer fluid tide marks gone, all underseal overspray gone. Even took a toothbrush to the lid.

 

Next up, gotta buy some really lurid colored screen wash because it's on display. Gonna keep an eye open for the labels too.

 

Phil

Posted

Re horns.

 

I think the correct equipment would be a pair of Delco Remy, one in low, one in "highway" tune.

Now, the correct correct ones would be 6V, the 'hi' one the B note, the 'lo' one the F note.

Replicas do exist in 12V.

 

An American car should never ever have British sounding horns.

Posted

Hm. They look identical, but the later Delco ones mostly appear to not have the domed lid. Who copied whom? The Delco 644 appears there same as the Lucas WT614.

 

It would appear I need the 759 and 760 horns because 12V. Now that lands me right in Corvette Tax prices. Poo.

 

 

Phil

Posted

Hm. They look identical, but the later Delco ones mostly appear to not have the domed lid. Who copied whom? The Delco 644 appears there same as the Lucas WT614.

 

It would appear I need the 759 and 760 horns because 12V. Now that lands me right in Corvette Tax prices. Poo.

 

 

Phil

 

is it possible to use a dropper resistor and some original 6V horns?

Posted

Not really, they take too much current for that to be practical.

 

I'm going to keep an eye open. Slowly slowly catchey monkey etc.

 

Phil

  • Like 2
Posted

Not really, they take too much current for that to be practical.

 

 

nothing a couple H4 bulbs tucked out the way somewhere wont solve?  :mrgreen:

Posted

Incandescents are worse due to the negative coefficient of resistance per temperature.

 

Quick way to burn up the contact points with inrush current.

 

Phil

  • Like 1
Posted

Incandescents are worse due to the negative coefficient of resistance per temperature.

 

Quick way to burn up the contact points with inrush current.

 

Phil

 

 

hmm good point

 

(especially as low voltage lamp will have a thick filament with high thermal mass that have an applicable warm up time)

 

its not possible to convert 6V horns into 12V horns via rewinding them or such?

 

(tbh im not actually sure how a Car horn works, not something iv ever looked into before :) )

 

is the point of the 2 tones of horn for a town and country type setup or do they blare at the same time, if so can you wire them in series or does their power draw differ?

Posted

Yes but in this case they are readily available (unlike 12V variants of the gauges, hence the rewinding).

 

In this case it merely boils down to dollars and cents: I do have a horn and it will work to pass inspection test. I can hold out for a cheap pair.

 

I need to find the brown fiberboard I have, want to try my hand at restoring the terminal connector blocks that bolted to the inner front wings for the headlights and such.

 

Phil

  • Like 1
Posted

Why not just run two 6V horns in series?

 

EDIT - Missed that it had already been suggested: oops:

  • Like 1
Posted

Trying to do the conversion "right".

 

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Lurid, no. However, in keeping with the car's "blues" theme yes.

 

Phil

Posted

Good-o. I just use Bluecol or suchlike as its always been. No purple berry scented nonsense for me.

Posted

Well, they had a bright green and a bright orange. Both of which had water repellent in.

 

I've never been fond of that because it remains greasy and smears. Vacuum wipers need all the assistance they can get. On that note I did check to see if the vacuum pump works. It does.

 

Phil

Posted

I just had to stop myself looking up how to remove the front fenders and grille assembly.

 

The scope of this is to tidy up, protect, make safe, enjoy and drive. I don't want it to turn into an extensive body-off restoration. Not just yet, at least.

 

Phil

Posted

Cheap horns didn't show up but the correct radio just did for a decent price.

 

I have purchased some bangin' choons.

 

Phil

  • Like 3
Posted

Cheap horns didn't show up but the correct radio just did for a decent price.

 

I have purchased some bangin' choons.

 

Phil

 

lets hope these vacuum tubes dont leak as badly as the ones in the engine bay!  :mrgreen:

 

(also I will require a picture of all the tubes glowing in operation when you do get the radio :) )

Posted

Incandescents are worse due to the negative coefficient of resistance per temperature.

 

Huh???

Posted

Incandescents are worse due to the negative coefficient of resistance per temperature.

 

Huh???

 

when a tungsten filament is cold is has a lower electrical resistance then when its hot, this is called a "positive thermal coefficient" (the hotter it gets the higher the electrical resistance goes)

 

a H4 bulb has a thick heavy filament that would take an applicable amount of time to warm up time to warm up, during this time its resistance will be lower, allowing more current to flow, potentially damaging the horns we would be trying to drive

 

(although I think when Phil says negative coefficient I think he is thinking of a Carbon filament lightbulb as a carbon filament has a negative thermal coefficient, Ie the hotter it gets the lower its resistance drops, where as tungsten lamps are PTC devices, as explained above, the hotter they get the higher their resistance rises)

Posted

can we just go back to painting stuff please. Ta.

  • Like 2
Posted

I say 'huh' again.

 

alright lets see if I can explain this :)

 

electrical resistance, is how much something resists the flow of electricity (with electricity being made up of something called electrons) , for this explanation think of it like water flowing in a pipe, the narrower the pipe the more it resists the flow of water/the less water that can flow through it

 

now with electricity, the more electricity thats flowing through something the hotter it gets (because more and more electrons are bumping into the thing's atoms, a bit like how if you just gently run a rope through your hands nothing happens but if you grip it and slide down it fast the friction generates heat and burns you)

 

 

 

 

 

now getting back to the posts above, imagine that the water pipe, the hotter it gets the narrower gets, so the hotter it gets the more it restricts the flow of water through it

 

this is what happens in a tungsten lightbulb

 

when the lightbulb is off and its filament is cold it has a certain resistance (ie how much it resists the flow of electricity) now when you turn the lightbulb on, lots of electricity wants to flow through it

 

so it starts heating up because of all the electricity flowing through it and bumping into its atoms, and one if its properties is as it heats up its resistance goes up, ie it starts resisting the flow of electricity even more then when it was cold, we call this property, a "positive thermal coefficient"

 

(incidentally the property of something heating up when electricity flows through it, is how a Lightbulb actually works, in that the electricity heats it (it being the filament in the lightbulb) up so much that it glows white hot)

 

now with the H4 head lamp bulb, because its filament is relatively large it takes its sweet time getting up to temperature, so there is a in this case a long period of time when the filament is cold and lots of electricity can flow through it, and into the thing we are working with (the horns in this case) damaging them

 

hopefully this helps explains things and enables you to make sense of everything :)

  • Like 1
Posted

I will resume painting soon.

 

However, thermionic audio equipment has been procured, as stated:

 

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So that'll need some serious love to get going.

 

Phil

Posted

just replace the caps* and she'll be reet  :mrgreen:

 

*and all the carbon comp resistors that have drifted out of spec over the years...

 

on that note, would it be using Loctal tubes or?

 

im not actually sure when Loctal tubes showed up

Posted

Don't think it uses loctals, I'll find out when it arrives though.

 

Phil

  • Like 1

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