Rover 75 May just be okay after all. Maybe....

[flat4alfa]

This should have loads of pre project drive bits on, from memory is on a W plate?

 

http://autoshite.com/topic/30055-ive-been-offered-a-rover-75/

 

Or is it this one I've lost track again

 

http://autoshite.com/topic/29757-very-white-rover-swapped-for-very-blue-rover-what-is-it-with-blue-rovers/page-4

[bub2006]

Second link I believe

[purplebargeken]

Yes,the second one guys. Thanks Bubster.

[Parky]

Are you quite sure you don't want to have one last shot at getting it running?

 

Be a shame if Roffle'd and the winner had it running perfectly with just the new gasket fitted

[purplebargeken]

May well do the gasket anyway as it'll be no good to me just sat in the house taking up space. If it works (which I honestly doubt) then grand, if not at least I can say that I know how to change an inlet manifold gasket on a K series engine I suppose. 

[Parky]

It doesn't look that hard a job - obviously as long as you are up to it. And you are right, it looks like the manifold gasket is the most likely culprit and if that doesn't work then maybe it's James Brown time.

 

Have faith, it might just work! Pick a date when you are planning to do it and if I am free I'll pop over with inappropriate tools and poor advice. Maybe get a mini meet up from nearby Shiters?

[bub2006]

Ken,breathe and relax. Don't make rash decisions you may regret. I'm speaking from experience and also of being ill or physically incapable. Chill out,step back. Don't weigh it. I've said I'll come do what I can mate. You need to step back and think it through.

It was fine before parking up. That's a surety. Most unlikely it's the hg so cross that off. Already discounted stale fuel causing rough running. You have gasket on order so I'll come and fit that for you. I'll bring my code reader too if I can find it. A fresh pair of eyes helps wonders as I know from experience. There's a lot of knowledge in this forum. I believe it was Barry cade who first mentioned the inlet gasket as a common fault yet often misdiagnosed as hgf. You ordered gasket so nothing ventured nothing gained. I'll try and get hold of a sniff tester too just to certainly eliminate the possibility of hgf.

[purplebargeken]

Cheers Parky, cheers Bub. Conor (Brodders) is popping over on Saturday to give me a hand to try and do the inlet manifold gasket and to pick up some more Triumph 1300FWD bits I missed, I may also try and give it a run first on the day (likely get nicked for clagging up the whole area). Might get some snake oil injection cleaner and lob it in the tank first. 

[flat4alfa]

Am in Norf Londun. 

 

How far north?  I work at Watford so it's a blat down to Staples Corner

[purplebargeken]

Edmonton. Horrible place. 

[Fabergé Greggs]

Only just seen this- I know fuck all about moderns but can maybe lend a hand? Whens the fixing session?

[purplebargeken]

Cheers Jack, tomorrow at midday. Late notice I know but if you aren't doing owt?

[Kringle]

Surely this should now be tagged as a meet?

[bub2006]

I'd come but I'm off sheep bothering today till Sunday.

[purplebargeken]

^^ Again?

[bub2006]

Yes sorry

[BorniteIdentity]

Is it fixed yet? (!)

[Bobthebeard]

Is it fixed yet? (!)

I was (rather sheepishly ) wondering the same.

[C1am]

[purplebargeken]

The short answer is yes and no. Firstly thanks to Conor for popping over to provide moral support and another pair of hands which made everything a little easier. The whole process was pretty easy/straightforward once bits had been moved out of the way and so on. Yes, I broke a couple of things but not the end of the world. Easily fixable.

 

I suspect we found the cause for the leaky inlet manifold.

 

Everything was undoing really rather well. I then undid the lower N/S stud and realised that it was just about finger tight. Aha! Lightbulb moment. Lets nip it up and see what happens.Tighten gently......... spin. Remove stud, evidence of previous 'stuff' misguidedly called a fix of some kind. Hmm. Helicoil? Fuck knows. Hmm, bodgery, hmm.Maybe.

 

Okay, all the studs were cleaned up with my trusty tap and die kit. Lovely.

 

Old gasket pulled away, surfaces cleaned. New gasket applied and manifold re-seated. Studs inserted and tightened, lovely. 2nd from N/S lower stud, gentle tighten...... spin. Fuck. N/S upper stud.... gently tighten....... spin. TWATS.

 

Options: Slightly coarser thread stud or suitably sized bolts and give it another go with a liberal coating of threadlock. Helicoiling, drilling and all that shit isn't going to happen. 

 

It really was all going so very, very well despite the fucking freezing temps and rain. 

[purplebargeken]

Bolts, washers and thread lock will win the day!

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Bad luck Ken, that does suck the big one admittedly. I wouldn't be too optimistic about getting it to seal up for any length of time with 3 out of 10 studs glued in though. What's access like to drill them out a bit and pop a helicoil in? If you've not done it before it's amazingly cheap and painless with a kit off eBay, the only bo11ock might be getting in with a drill to enlarge the holes.

[SiC]

Could you tap it slightly larger? Sounds like the material is pretty soft.

[SiC]

It's totally bodgery, but could you use self tapping bolts that are used for metal?

[purplebargeken]

I think that a suitable length bolts, washers and thread lock should suffice as long as there is some thread left at the very bottom. The depth of the stud is not much at all tbh. Barry Cade suggested depth checking with a bit of wire and also the bolt option.

 

The helicoil would be the best way but as you said Mr B, the drilling would be a pain. It's actually 5 out of 7 that are holding happily. So just two to repair/bodge.

 

3 at the top and 4 at the bottom. 

 

Very frustrating as it would have been sorted today.

[Tamworthbay]

This is an utter bodge ONLY to be used on an engine that will die otherwise and only if head is iron, but in the past I got around this by taking the stud out, dremelling a cutout at the side of the hole. Think of a spout shape if that makes sense, wind in the stud and mark where it lines up with this space and grind a little dip. Then liberal use of thread lock and wind it in carefully. Then put a blob of weld between the stud and head and finally Dremel back if needed.

 

If the head is ally then a decent amount of chemical metal MAY work for a while. If you are going to bridge it anyway there is nothing to lose.

[Parky]

Two gaskets and a shitload of Hermatite?

[SiC]

If it's only 2 that aren't holding but 5 that are, surely likely to be enough?

[Guest]

If it's only 2 that aren't holding but 5 that are, surely likely to be enough?

Plastic manifold with a compressible rubber gasket. Needs to be evenly clamped as the coolant will be under pressure.

 

 

Had a look at Reamer Bros for bolts, as not all the holes have studs. They list them as 8mmx30mm

 

 

You can see how short the studs are. Hopefully the head has been drilled and threaded deeper than the length of the original studs..

 

Does this look like what came out Ken?

 

 

 

"Rover did change the fixings around the beginning of 1999, and a recommendation to change the studs in existing engines fitted to Freelanders was issued by Land Rover, the wording of the technical bulletin for this gave the reason as "relaxation of inlet manifold fixings resulting in external or internal coolant loss". (http://www.myfreelander.co.uk/Coolin...ng-Problem.htm)

 

Originally the plastic manifold had three M8 studs with locknuts along the top and four M8 bolts along the bottom, but this was changed to using M8x25 patchlock studs and torque nuts nuts for all seven.

 

It was at this point that the torque setting was revised down to 17nm. "

[SiC]

Ah