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Wobstang II


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Guest Hooli
Posted

Do you reckon thats all it was? I thought it needed to be hot to melt in the first place or os it because it was coiled that its got hot?

 

Coiled wire can't radiate the heat it produces as it's touching other equally warm wire. Meaning a single bit of wire doesn't get as hot as the same wire coiled carrying the same current.

 

However I don't think I'd be happy using it either seeing that result.

Posted

It's an effect called induction heating (I think), if putting more than a few amps through an extension lead it's good practise to always fully uncoil it.

 

Bearing might quieten off with use, maybe it's washed the grease from it?

Posted

Does the ground brush make better contact if you rotate it 180 degrees in the holder?

 

Try slacken off the big bolts holding the bowl on a turn or so and see if that helps in quietening it down. If so, nip them up with the motor running an eighth turn each going from one to the other, listening how the bearings sound.

 

 

Phil

Posted

It's an effect called induction heating (I think), if putting more than a few amps through an extension lead it's good practise to always fully uncoil it.

 

 

 

This is true, but I've welded using a coiled extension and it works for a good while.

I'd suspect the motor rather than the wire coils.

  I know nothing about electrikery except you can't see it, but you can feel it.

Posted

This is true, but I've welded using a coiled extension and it works for a good while.

I'd suspect the motor rather than the wire coils.

I know nothing about electrikery except you can't see it, but you can feel it.

Especially if finding out if 3 phase is live with the back of your hand....

You are right though probably more heating effect due to too thin a wire than coil unless it was running for a long period.

Guest Hooli
Posted

 

Also wondering is I should go heavier again for Ground Strap as the ground wire melted too!

 

 

You need the same ampage wire for grounding as the supply.

 

What size fuse is fitted for the wipers? You need wire rated higher than that for starters.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Odd the wire melted then, I'd be scratching my head at that point too.

Posted

Thin crispy wire might have been made by the lowest bidder and while in theory it should take 16a in practise they may have omitted a few strands to save a few pennies per metre.

Attaching an amp meter in the circuit would tell you how much is being drawn

Posted

010103 should be fine for this, so long as it's protected by a 7.5A fuse (that one you can get).

 

Phil

Posted

couple of things from me, pretty sure that wiper auto park is not part of the MOT nor is two speed. just that the wipers and washers clear the screen on demand.

 

Staaaag went through a decade of MOTs with no auto wiper park until I got my arse around to fixing it.

 

wipers on and they sweep, flick the wipers off when they are at the bottom of the screen :)

 

secondly I was fitting Fathathestags Land Rover up with a new loom but failed to note which wiper wires went where from the switch. the loom just provided the 12v to the switch. a seperate loom connected switch to 2 speed motor with auto park. Auto park confused me because it should be ignition controlled constant live feed to a microswitch inside the wiper gearbox which then sends power to the motor until the switch in the gearbox cuts the supply.

 

Long and short of it is that while I was trying to fathom out how autopark worked all the smoke leaked out of the motor and I burned out the switch.

 

Got there in the end, but it cost me a couple of 2 speed switches

Posted

MoT doesn't even require two speeds.

 

Just that you operate a switch and the wipers adequately clear the screen, and that you operate the screen wash and you get enough on the screen to justifiably wash it with the wipers.

 

Like Richard, my Vauxhall went through all of its MoT tests without self parking wipers, just a toggle switch on the dash, with three positions, slow off fast. There was another button that was a sprung type, push and hold for screen wash.

Wipers were always halfway up the screen when I got it back because flicking the switch off at the correct time was an art, but it was never failed for it. They much preferred finding more difficult things like ball joints and rust...

 

 

Phil

  • Like 3
Posted

You could purchase/make a bracket like this and mount it under the dash for those switches:

 

sp2000un_ud004dt_1024x.jpg

 

Have you got a picture of the whole dash so we can scope out possible mounting points?  :-)

  • Like 2
Posted

Not a single switch blank! Must be the posh version.  8)  

 

Just wedge those switches in the gap between the binnacle and the crack in the dash pad!  :-D

Add a blob of blu tack for security! (Gee, that dash pad is in a bit of a state!)

 

/Recycled Joke

 

Looks like you need...

 

BhcqCveCIAA_WYG.jpg

 

/Recycled Joke

Posted

Your kidding! The whole dash! Serious!

 

Have you tried the long tweezers/pliers technique?

 

Edit: you probably have glass fuses, bugger.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Sounds like you're nearly there to me.

Posted

feel for you here Jo

 

keep it going and don't start regretting this whole project.

 

the end of the tunnel is in sight and I am pretty sure it is not an oncoming freight train

Posted

If I remember tonight I'll check at Napa for 6A glass fuses for you.

 

They usually have assorted nonsense available.

 

Owners forum probably has advice on fuse removal methods?

 

Phil

Posted

Well if nothing else we now have sidelights in the headlights :)

Well done Jo, one positive to counter the negative.

I know exactly how you feel with this, I’ve been there too with at least two of my current cars! Don’t give up though.

Remember, this is your dream car and you’ve worked bloody hard for it up to now so don’t give up on it. If it gets too much, put it down for a day or two and come back later.

I was on the cusp of giving up on my Capri when it went tits up. Walking away from both the car and the financial investment in it. If I had of done I’d have been a complete and utter pillok and would have regretted it.

 

Don’t worry about the MOT. Nothing has to change really regardless of MOT exemption.

Just keep working out the fail points then put it in for an MOT regardless. If it fails fix the fails and then MOT it again. If it passes then fantastic!

After that first MOT and you get it registered you can do whatever you want from then on. Keep MOTing it every year or don’t, it’s your choice.

I may be wrong but I think you might be stressing yourself unnecessarily by trying too hard to beat the MOT thing and it’s not helping your efforts to fix the car.

  • Like 4
Guest Hooli
Posted

Yeah what Dan said, just fix the thing. If it's a working car then it should pass the MOT.

Posted

Fwiw I’m going to MOT my Capri when it’s ready to hit the road again. The exemption will be well underway by then but it’s been stripped and rebuilt to such an extent that I’m definitely going to get my tester to do the business before I take it out on the road properly. Just to be sure! £50 for the test is nothing really.

  • Like 3
Posted

That spare wheel has chrome hubcap lugs on it.  You need a full set of those and dog dishes now ;)  You've made great progress on this heap, you'll be sorted in no time.  Don't panic about the MoT, worst they'll do is fail it and it's not going to be on anything dangerous given the stuff you've managed to fix.

  • Like 2
Posted

Which, as a '75 Ford from Somewhere Else will intrigue the testing party and they'll likely just test it the same as they ever have...

 

Like those trims though.

 

Phil

Posted

I love how the base trims on American Fords are often way better than the Ghia trims on UK Fords.

  • Like 2
Posted

nice place to park a scania!!!!

 

 

 

SS sounds good tho ;) 

Posted

Shitestang under its own steam on the Queens Highway!

 

 Whoopee!!! :-)

  • Like 2
Posted

Brilliant! It’s quite a throaty little beast isn’t it!

 

Have a nice break Jo.

  • Like 2
Posted

Go nuts!

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1975,mustang+ii,5.0l+302cid+v8,1134458,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884

 

Yanks are so good for replacement parts aren’t they! If that was a Capri or something you’d have to try to find good used ones.

 

Good news though Jo. Your mechanic sounds like a good bloke if he’s doing over the weekend for you!

  • Like 3

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