Wobstang II

[DodgeRover]

Mine are held in place with a large blob of dumdum body caulking....the sidelight holders

[Guest Hooli]

MOT'd yet?

 

 

 

Wipers sound ok to me, I'd assume they've finished the park cycle like you said.

[PhilA]

Everything is a little slow now as I am waiting for parts..............................

Small update later but i am hoping theres still life in the wipers?

As Phil suggested I put power to the plug only problem was I couldnt get to the body of the motor as the car is hemmed in

Looking at the diagram I thought the Black/Pink wire goes to ground anyhow I know its the park switch but I though what harm can it do?

So I put negative to Black/Pink and Positive to Blue/Orange and something happened the wipers moved about 1 cm then parked.

Hope I havnt damaged anything by applying negative to the park switch wire instead of the motor body but to me it appears last time they ran they didnt park and when I applied power this way they finished the parked cycle................................................................

If somebody could let me know what they think would be appreciated

Nope, no harm. And no, black/pink is only connected to ground when it's in parked position.

 

If you put ground to black/pink and power to white or blue/orange then it'll just move away from the parked position then the switch on the cam will disengage the power and it'll stop.

 

Just connect the - of the jump pack to the car's bodywork or engine somewhere you can make a good contact then connect the + of the jump pack to the blue/orange and tell us then if the wipers go. You've proven the motor works (albeit briefly) so if connecting - to the engine block or battery - lead and it doesn't work shows the connection from wiper motor to the car body is bad and probably just needs cleaning up to make the wipers work properly. It may have a wire from the motor body to a ground point on the metalwork of the car nearby.

 

Phil

[Mally]

Regarding the gear T piece. You could slip a piece of heat shrink on from both ends

[Mally]

Slip the heat shrink on the handle now. It's going to be very hot on Sunday.

[PhilA]

Sounds a lot like the motor is good.

 

Without the battery connected, you can check the wiring through the switch.

 

Multimeter set to ohms, connect the red probe to the battery + lead, switch the ignition to RUN, select speed LOW and test ohms to the white wire towards the loom. You should get a fairly low reading (under ten ohms), then select HIGH and test ohms to the blue/orange, similarly low reading should be obtained.

 

Then connect the red probe to the battery black - wire and poke the black probe to the body of the wiper motor, should liberate very low reading.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

It can be a switch anywhere in the cabin within the driver's reach. Doesn't have to be on a stalk. A small panel screwed up under the dash will suffice until a replacement stalk can be acquired.

 

Phil

[vulgalour]

Don't focus on what's annoying you and not working, focus on all the stuff you've fixed.  You know the problems are minor, they're just annoying problems that are hard to fix because you can't just go down the local scrapyard and raid a parts car.

 

What you can do is what you've done so far which is identify a problem, work out what caused the problem, and then fix the problem.  You can do this.  You know how the wiper wiring works so you just need a relevant switch.  Cable ties make things secure in a non-permanent way most of the time so you shouldn't have to damage anything to fit the switch of your choice, it might not be pretty but it'll get you through a test.

 

Battery tray is trickier, but not insurmountable.  It's effectively two threaded bars, two nuts, and a shaped clamp.  Get some generic threaded bar and nuts to suit and a block of wood.  Cut the wood to the approximate shape of the old clamp, drill two holes big enough for the threaded bar.  At the bottom end, apply the nuts as per factory.  At the top end, stick a big washer on to spread the load and another couple of nuts to tighten it down.  Lop off any excess threaded bar.  It won't be pretty, but it should work and be safe and cost very little.

 

Come on, Jo, you've got this.  Don't let the bastard grind you down.

[spartacus]

∆ there speaks the voice of experience!

Vulg knows as well as any of us what it's like, the first paragraph is especially good advice!

Don't let it become all consuming Jo, it's supposed to be fun! If you read back through the thread you'll see that 'insurmountable problems' have been solved and forgotten about, I do know it's hard but 1.51am isn't a good time to dwell on stuff like this, the mind and body are naturally at their lowest ebb at this time, it's hard to feel upbeat about anything!

Are the plug for the wiper stalk and it's counter-part just at the end of a few wires, or is one end part of something else?

Keep smiling, it's much too fair a weekend to let a hunk of metal get you down.

[danthecapriman]

I think the earlier Mustang 2 models used a similar style wiper/washer switch to how my Mercury is. It’s a dash mounted sliding style switch.

 

Available new still...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1974,mustang+ii,2.8l+171cid+v6,1134346,electrical-switch+&+relay,wiper+/+washer+switch,4856

 

Is there a blanked bit of your dash where this would have gone if it the car was older? You might be able to fit it somewhere regardless?

If you can then problem solved!

 

My Mercury went through two MOT’s btw using a lump of scrap wood to hold the battery down...

[eddyramrod]

Speaking of raiding scrapyards... might it be worth having a trawl around somewhere local, with emphasis on older Fords, to see if you can get a complete indicator stalk, and possibly battery clamp, that might not be original but will look the part, being Ford parts?  America got the Capri, so if you can find one of those to raid, so much the better.

 

Good luck!

[danthecapriman]

Sounds like a plan!

I don’t think there’s anything about how your switches work or if they’re combined or not as far as MOT’s go so long as they’re fitted, working and operable by the driver then I think that’s good enough. I’m not a tester however!

 

Do what you have to do to get it on the road. Sort it properly later at your leisure.

[Junkman]

The old one had no screws so I borrowed a couple of the Sunvisor screws perfect fit!

 

I was told screws can be acquired by purchase.

[bezzabsa]

washer is simple, floor mounted switch like yanks used to fit for high beam...

[Guest Hooli]

I didnt know what size to purchase though,Unless your talking about something else and being Wude?

 

Take one with you, any proper fasteners place will match them. Near me it's http://www.bapp.co.uk/ but I expect most big towns have something similar.

[danthecapriman]

As said, most good fastenings places should have them or be able to get them, they’re nothing particularly special or unique, just screws!

You could probably get a set off eBay (UK) tbh if you can’t find a decent shop local. That type screw will most likely be the same as many cars over here used too. I got a shit load of new dash and pillar trim screws for my Capri off eBay recently and they’re pretty cheap still despite being sold as old Ford bits!

 

Edit; post a pic of one and it’s size and I might even have some odd spares you can have.

[Guest Hooli]

I'm suspecting they are just self tapers having seen the hole in the roof for them. So the right diameter & length can be picked by eye - just make sure the thread gets near enough to the head so you can do them up tight.

[danthecapriman]

Looking at the pic on the previous page, and looking at the sun visor screws on mine these look similar enough,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-capri-escort-dash-screws/323233738803?hash=item4b423b7033:g:Z0oAAOSwjodaLVVd

[PhilA]

Washers can be on a completely seperate switch. Just so long as they work. They do not have to wipe the screen at the same time, that's merely a convenience function brought to the driver by the factory designers.

The switches don't even have to be next to each other, though labels can help your friendly and confused MoT tester.

 

Phil

[Guest Hooli]

If its like the wiper motors I've been inside of there are separate brushes for fast/slow/park.

 

Dunno how easy they are to replace in those but I'd be tempted to take a look.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[PhilA]

What you did was connect the ground backfed through the wiper park circuit. The wipers were parked so the switch was connected. As soon as they moved, the switch disconnected and bof, the motor stops.

 

That means the slow speed windings at least are good.

 

What may have happened is the connection internally has become disconnected (either broken or corroded) from the case, but the connection backwards through the switch is still good.

 

Now that you have a wire in place, test ohms from battery negative to the body of the wiper motor.

 

Phil

 

Edit: measure the following:-

 

Battery - terminal to motor body ohms:

Battery - terminal to white wire from motor:

Battery - terminal to blue/orange from motor:

[PhilA]

See my addendum above and just poke with multimeter first. Battery can be connected or disconnected for this test but ignition switch must be off.

 

Phil

 

Can't see it easily in the diagram but I bet the "3 brush plate" piece just has a metal tab that touches the inside of the motor case that's gotten rusty.

[PhilA]

Not wasted. Parts have arrived. Motor is likely to be good. Knowledge gained isn't a loss.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

No continuity from motor body to the internal bits. Try giving the motor body a few good hits with the handle of a hammer and try again.

 

If not yes, you may have to pull the back of the motor off to clean it up inside. Overall it seems healthy, but at the same time new grease will also help.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Just tried to get the motor out cant get the arm assembly off the motor

Got the nut off can get all the bolts out but feels like the thw motor spindle is seized solid to the arm assembly

Abviously dont want to hit it as I dont want to damage the spindle or arm assembly

Even if I had a new motor its game over

You tried to undo the arm off the motor or the actual wiper mechanism from the arm?

 

I would have thought the arm to the motor to be extraordinarily tight and difficult to remove but should come off with a decent whack

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Battery!

So

Heres a pic of the battery tray (not mine but the same)

Its Welded shut at the rear so nowhere for ratchet strapping

I thought it used a diagonal clamp but as stock there use very short bolts to bottom of the threaded bars are not J hooks like most they are flattened and one bolted to the inner fended the other bolted to a removeable shield thats missing

Here is what the missing shield looks like

As you can see the tabs at the bottom engage with the slots in the tray and the short threaded bar goes throught the clamp that goes over the battery.

Its the fact that this sheild id missing and all the threaded bars are available J hooks not the type this needs

Also all the Threaded J hooks are very long with very little threads up top

Any ideas?

Length of stud, heated up, hammered flat and bent over? How's your blacksmithing skills?

 

Phil

[PhilA]

If you can get it out that motor sounds otherwise healthy, just an internal grounding issue from what I can see on the diagram.

 

Soak the bits with plusgas for a couple days and walk away for it for a bit, then come back moderately refreshed (re-read Vulgalour's post a couple times).

 

 

 

--Phil

[Junkman]

Why don't you just order the required bits from US Automotive in Luton?

They would arrive overnight instead of two weeks later.

[DodgeRover]

There's a place here in Horley specialises in motor repairs rewinds etc. supposed to be very good

 

Edit

 

https://www.taboxall.co.uk/motors/ac-dc-rewinds-repairs

[MorrisItalSLX]

Does anybody know how that style of clip works and how to get it off?

 

Dont want to break anything