omegod Posted October 15, 2017 Posted October 15, 2017 Some new LPG filters will help,thats what a service basically consists of and not hard to do yourself TBH
dome Posted October 15, 2017 Posted October 15, 2017 I suppose you could just keep a splash of petrol in the tank and switch back on the fly for when you need the extra 20% performance for a 'safe overtake' That's exactly what I do with the S4. I keep a quarter tank of optimax in it so Maximum GLFery is but the press of a button away. Rave and AMC Rebel 2
richardthestag Posted October 15, 2017 Posted October 15, 2017 when you crack off the nut and break the seal to change the filter be aware that there is lpg under high pressure in the line back to the tank and its solenoid. first time you crack off the nut you will crap yourself. If the solenoid at the tank is fucked then you may have an issue as the entire tank is going to vent itself, the o ring in the filter will be hanging out (they do that pretty much as soon as you crack off the nut) and you will be unable to seal it back up again. + LPG is very cold, if it does vent do not get in the way of it easiest way to do it is run the tank until empty. then leave it idling on LPG until it stalls. work in a well ventilated area before you replace the filter. There is a nice magnet in mine which was covered in fur last time I changed the filter! where the fuck does that come from? dome 1
AMC Rebel Posted October 15, 2017 Author Posted October 15, 2017 I suppose you could just keep a splash of petrol in the tank and switch back on the fly for when you need the extra 20% performance for a 'safe overtake' I actually do just that - and of course it always starts up on petrol. Rave 1
wuvvum Posted October 16, 2017 Posted October 16, 2017 People always seem surprised when I tell them the CX starts better from cold on LPG than on petrol.
AMC Rebel Posted October 16, 2017 Author Posted October 16, 2017 People always seem surprised when I tell them the CX starts better from cold on LPG than on petrol. I don't think that's an option on mine - unless I'm about to be educated.......
dome Posted October 16, 2017 Posted October 16, 2017 I don't think that's an option on mine - unless I'm about to be educated....... Mine neither-it's a modern Prins VSi setup so (I believe) relies on water temperature to vaporise the LPG. Out of curiousity, has anyone changed the filter on a Prins VSi setup? I did it on my old Jeeps OMVL system but can't find how to do it on the Prins system. To echo Richardthestag on the Jeep I closed off the valve on the tank and ran it til it stalled-this took a LONG time, I then cracked open the filter and shat myself at how much gas came out...
cort16 Posted October 16, 2017 Posted October 16, 2017 Not one to do with a fag in your mouth then? dome and AMC Rebel 2
AMC Rebel Posted October 17, 2017 Author Posted October 17, 2017 Hmmm a new caliper from Rock Auto is less (including shipping and taxes) than breakers want for second hand ones. New ones are £400+ from UK suppliers. dome 1
dieselnutjob Posted October 19, 2017 Posted October 19, 2017 Mine has started making a whiring noise from the rear belt that drives the high pressure diesel pump.It's almost certain that the bearings have gone dry in the tensioner.To get the rear belt and tensioner off it seems that a sound deadening bulkhead panel has to come out, and to get then off the A/C and coolant have to be drained.It worth putting LED bulbs in the rear number plate illuminators because they bulbs run hot and burn out the bulb holders.I still have a bad back from converting the screen to Android and fitting a towbar. This was useful:- I suffered partial brake failure on holiday, because the vacuum pump has filled up the pipe to the servo with oil and this had rotted out the gromment. The brake servo currently has about 1cm of oil sloshing around in it. Landrover, Peugeot and Citroen all did safety recalls because of this but Jaguar did not so I am currently discussing this with them and VOSA. and this was fun:- alf892, oldcars and AMC Rebel 3
AMC Rebel Posted October 20, 2017 Author Posted October 20, 2017 Who designs this shit?Accountants The Reverend Bluejeans 1
AMC Rebel Posted October 20, 2017 Author Posted October 20, 2017 Mine has started making a whiring noise from the rear belt that drives the high pressure diesel pump.It's almost certain that the bearings have gone dry in the tensioner.To get the rear belt and tensioner off it seems that a sound deadening bulkhead panel has to come out, and to get then off the A/C and coolant have to be drained.It worth putting LED bulbs in the rear number plate illuminators because they bulbs run hot and burn out the bulb holders.I still have a bad back from converting the screen to Android and fitting a towbar. This was useful:- I suffered partial brake failure on holiday, because the vacuum pump has filled up the pipe to the servo with oil and this had rotted out the gromment. The brake servo currently has about 1cm of oil sloshing around in it. Landrover, Peugeot and Citroen all did safety recalls because of this but Jaguar did not so I am currently discussing this with them and VOSA. and this was fun:- That's a lovely motor and benefits from the minor facelift they did for the diesels (removed the rubbing strips from the sides, acoustic glass and one or two other things). Hopefully with mine being a petrol it won't fill up the servo with oil The Android screen conversions look interesting but probably more than I have the time for at present - I like the standard one more than I expected.
dieselnutjob Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 It has quite a few advantages:- Navigation with Waze which is essential in London traffic.Internet radio so I can listen to any channel, anywhere, even when gangster rap is being transmitted on Radio 4 frequency in Wembley.Spotify when I get bored of my music collection. The only downside is that the screen isn't really bright enough in the summer. On the jag forum we are trying to engineer a bright LCD so that will get fixed. AMC Rebel 1
AMC Rebel Posted November 9, 2017 Author Posted November 9, 2017 I ripped part of the undershield off on a kerb at the co-op the other day. After I stopped swearing at myself I realised this was a good chance to fit the new headlamp burners and ballast I had ordered, and to take a look at fitting the new bonnet catch and see why the headlamp wash doesn't work. First job, remove the the bumper - pretty easy as it more or less fell off.
AMC Rebel Posted November 9, 2017 Author Posted November 9, 2017 There are two bonnet catches - the lhs is beneath a security cover and has a switch attached. First thing I dsicovered is that mine has a "spare" switch, with a piece of pipe cable tied into it to fool it into thinking the bonnet is always closed. Since the lhs catch doesn't lock into place it seems this was needed. I have a new catch so hopefully won't need both switches when I reassemble. The headlamp washer pipe has a valve that splits the flow left and right, it's broken. I removed the rhs headlamp. Once inside I dismantled it and discovered solenoid - it was jammed. Evidently the car has bi-xenon lights that weren't operating as intended on main beam. Heidel_Kakao 1
AMC Rebel Posted November 11, 2017 Author Posted November 11, 2017 Lights polished and fitted with new standard burners. A quick mention for this stuff It is, by some margin the most worthless product I have used for some years.
AMC Rebel Posted December 1, 2017 Author Posted December 1, 2017 Last night's hilarious fault was the refusal of the right hand indicators to quit except when I moved the stalk to indicate left. Pretty glad it didn't happen in busy traffic. Usual Jag electrical cures weren't working (stop and start, wiggle stuff etc), but I did "fix" it by giving a violent shaking by the stalk earlier.
AMC Rebel Posted February 19, 2018 Author Posted February 19, 2018 Finally got around to changing the sticking caliper - easier than I expected and so far, so good - Heidel_Kakao and oldcars 2
dieselnutjob Posted February 20, 2018 Posted February 20, 2018 Whoever wrote the workshop manual for the X350 diesel is a f*!"$ idiot. To get to the diesel pump belt it says that you have to remove the bulkhead panel behind the engine. The problem is that there are coolant lines and aircon lines that go through this and so you have to degas the AC and drain the coolant. I went to a local garage and have the AC degassed and then go home and started tearing the car apart. If you look at this pic you can see the big gap in the foreground of the pic is where the cabin heater filter box was. This box came out in a few minutes with only four bolts and then you can easily get to that rear belt from the side. Removing the bulkhead panel is totally unnecessary. AMC Rebel 1
3VOM Posted February 20, 2018 Posted February 20, 2018 Finally got around to changing the sticking caliper - easier than I expected and so far, so good - AS1.JPG Worryingly, I read that as fixing the sticking caliper and, at first glance, you appear to have jacked up the car, removed the wheel and got the WD40 out..... AMC Rebel and oldcars 2
AMC Rebel Posted February 20, 2018 Author Posted February 20, 2018 Worryingly, I read that as fixing the sticking caliper and, at first glance, you appear to have jacked up the car, removed the wheel and got the WD40 out..... That "specialist fast release penetrant" WD40 wouldn't free off a sledge stuck on a near vertical ice slope. Lacquer Peel 1
Asimo Posted February 20, 2018 Posted February 20, 2018 That "specialist fast release penetrant" WD40 wouldn't free off a sledge stuck on a near vertical ice slope.Agreed. Glad to know it wasn't just my technique.
AMC Rebel Posted September 1, 2018 Author Posted September 1, 2018 Update - as the MOT looms (next week) I thought I should finally smarten the jaaaag up a bit by refitting the bottom of the front bumper and the undertray. This is nothing at all to do with hiding any leaks or anything. As usual with stuff I do to old cars, it was a swine of a job, but I have now done it with stainless fittings to boot, so at least the poor sod who dismantles it at the Jag breakers will have an easier job. I love the NACA ducts to channel air to the front brakes. alf892 1
Guest Hooli Posted September 1, 2018 Posted September 1, 2018 Update - as the MOT looms (next week) I thought I should finally smarten the jaaaag up a bit by refitting the bottom of the front bumper and the undertray. This is nothing at all to do with hiding any leaks or anything. As usual with stuff I do to old cars, it was a swine of a job, but I have now done it with stainless fittings to boot, so at least the poor sod who dismantles it at the Jag breakers will have an easier job. I love the NACA ducts to channel air to the front brakes. IMG_7561.JPG That oddly enough is exactly the last thing proletariat masses see if they don't clear off the highway in time for such a class vehicle to pass.
AMC Rebel Posted September 1, 2018 Author Posted September 1, 2018 That oddly enough is exactly the last thing proletariat masses see if they don't clear off the highway in time for such a class vehicle to pass. Ha ha - more like "look at this wanky old grandad-mobile, let's get in his way". I am not sure if the "personal" plate, (not to me - it came with the car) makes it better or worse.
Guest Hooli Posted September 1, 2018 Posted September 1, 2018 Yeah I suffered the 'grandad car' thing a few times when I had a Jag, didn't take long to get past them normally though. AMC Rebel 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now