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Quick brake question?


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Posted

Just changing the front brakes on my sharan, well trying to. I'm working very slowly. Just got the pads off on the front o/s. The disc won't come off. Silly question but do I have to remove one of those caliper supports in the photo? Can't see any other way but those bolts are big and tight! If anyone can help then I can proceed and probably save some head scratching.

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Posted

I thought once you've got the caliper off the disc normally wiggles out. Is the disc loose or does it need a smack from behind to break the seal?

Posted

I thought once you've got the caliper off the disc normally wiggles out. Is the disc loose or does it need a smack from behind to break the seal?

I'll give it a try.

Posted

Tried some more force but there's definitely not enough clearance by quite a way.

Posted

Many vehicles, yes the caliper mount has to come off. Some not, but that looks to me like you will have to unbolt it. Hammering only helps free the disc from the hub, it won't make space where there isn't any!

  • Like 1
Posted

Most likely.  It is sometimes possible to wiggle the disk out without unbolting the caliper bracket, but that one looks like it needs to come off.  Visualise tilting it enough for the rear face of the disk to slip over the bit of hub visible in the middle: not going to happen.

 

Incidentally, why does the disk need to come off at all?  That one appears to have a slight lip, but it doesn't look scored or anything.  I'd probably leave it where it is.

  • Like 1
Posted

Aaah. I've changed the discs on my old Leon which I assumed was a similar strut and I'm sure I didn't have to remove the bracket - just the caliper.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok, that's what I thought. Never had that on a car before. The bolts are 27mm, very rusty and not a lot of room behind. Might have to aim for just getting the one wheel done today. I wish I had power tools.

Posted

Most likely. It is sometimes possible to wiggle the disk out without unbolting the caliper bracket, but that one looks like it needs to come off. Visualise tilting it enough for the rear face of the disk to slip over the bit of hub visible in the middle: not going to happen.

 

Incidentally, why does the disk need to come off at all? That one appears to have a slight lip, but it doesn't look scored or anything. I'd probably leave it where it is.

It's a bit rusty on one edge on the inside. The brakes are a bit under par so bought new pads and discs. The pads that came off had plenty of meat on them but were worn on the same edge at the back. At this rate might just change the pads then. Will see how I go.

 

Cheers for the advice helpful folks.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Turn the steering so the carrier points 'out' put a big ring spanner on the carrier bolts & stamp on it.

  • Like 3
Posted

You need to take the caliper carrier bolts out, they'll be tight and rusty so put the 12 sided sockets away and get the 6 sided jobs out.

  • Like 2
Posted

I've got an extension bar and my sockets are 6 sided. Pointing the wheel out will help - why didn't I think of that! Put it all back together now on that wheel. At least I know my way round them.

Posted

Cars you can change discs on without removing the caliper carrier are the in the minority . Just some vag stuff and old pugs iirc . Wait til you do a 2000 onwards fwd transit !

  • Like 2
Guest Hooli
Posted

I've got an extension bar and my sockets are 6 sided. Pointing the wheel out will help - why didn't I think of that! Put it all back together now on that wheel. At least I know my way round them.

 

Sometimes an axle stand can support an extension bar so it doesn't fall off the bolt as you stamp.

  • Like 1
Guest Hooli
Posted

Oh yeah, soak it in WD40 or similar several times before trying to undo them. I've never seen any without threadlock on, so I'd make sure you have some before the job too.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll put that down as a practice run. I know the task ahead now.

 

I don't think I've had a car where the caliper carrier had to be removed before. You learn something new every day.

Posted

Turn the wheels to give yourself more access, 6 sided socket and breaker bar normally does it for me.

 

 

Top Moog tip - make sure you do them up tight after!

  • Like 3
Posted

I will say it was a good response chaps! Very quick. Plenty of helpful advice.

 

Will do this job another day and I'll be ready this time.

 

Will also add probably not the best day to do this as it was boiling!

Guest Hooli
Posted

You may need an extension tube on the breaker bar.

 

I has a 4ft ali tube that works everytime (except when it doesn't) for tasks like this.

Posted

I've got some plusgas ready for those bolts. The 27mm socket doesn't fit until you've scraped some of the rust off first.

Posted

You won't need plusgas, they're big bolts but they'll come out OK. If you can't get a breaker bar on just lay on the floor and boot the end of your ratchet. 

Posted

Plus gas on a bolt head ain't never going to do fuck all. It's in your head!

Posted

I has a 4ft ali tube that works everytime (except when it doesn't) for tasks like this.

 

I broke a snap on breaker bar with a 4 ft tube.

Posted

Not to be beaten by this i'm back in the searing heat having another go. This is where I am now.

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