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The Epic Austrian owned R16 from Germany doing French things in a Parallel Universe near England Saga


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Posted

is there a screw in there? Take it out and see if needle or jet drops to floor and is lost. Might be the accel pump bleed needle, nothing to adjust.

 

It's an adjusting screw complete with spring and O ring.

Posted

3 idle adjustment screws? Please send some pictures of both sides of the carb. The ones you posted before don't show the linkage and sides.

Posted

As Herr Junkman is still asking stoopid questions, I assume that he hasn't telephoned da man.

 

In the meantime, now I am back at my desktop PC, I have found da man's old Lotus Word Pro rebuild files on the Weber 32DIR (specifically for Volvo 300 B14), converted them to PDF and stapled the individual files back together to make the full guide. Hopefully the huge quantity of pictures with wordz and pointy arrowz might shed some light on the matter.

 

Credit to Mac/Mollusk

 

(Apologies to JM if he has contacted da man and/or he wasn't in.)

Macs 32DIR Rebuild article.pdf

Posted

I don't understand a single word, but my carby is a 93 and has the setup shown on page 30, second from top.

Hence I can't adjust it.

Posted

So there are indeed two idle adjustment screws and you deal with them as described:

For type 93, idle speed is initially set to 600rpm by screw B with screw A having been screwed fully in. The final correct idle speed is then set by (A).
Idle mixture is set by screw C. (note different position to that used on type 83).


Hence, i would proceed like this:

- Screw A fully in
- Screw B set so engine runs at 600 rpm
- turn idle mixture screw C clockwise until the engine runs rough.
- turn idle mixture screw C counter-clockwise 1/2 to 3/4 of a full turn, so that the engine again runs smoother.
- set rpm to desired normal idle speed using A

  • Like 2
Posted

This all makes me feel much more optimistic* about the possibility of getting the Dacia to run properly.

  • Like 2
Posted

So there are indeed two idle adjustment screws and you deal with them as described:

 

For type 93, idle speed is initially set to 600rpm by screw B with screw A having been screwed fully in. The final correct idle speed is then set by (A).

Idle mixture is set by screw C. (note different position to that used on type 83).

 

Hence, i would proceed like this:

 

- Screw A fully in

- Screw B set so engine runs at 600 rpm

- turn idle mixture screw C clockwise until the engine runs rough.

- turn idle mixture screw C counter-clockwise 1/2 to 3/4 of a full turn, so that the engine again runs smoother.

- set rpm to desired normal idle speed using A

 

 

When will you arrive?

  • Like 4
Posted

By Jove, no!

I'd rather brim it in Dover and drive past many a closed petrol station directly to Germany.

Posted

So...

 

I have to remove the starter motor from my 16. To do this I have to remove the exhaust manifold. Zero access and some rusty bolts which I assume will either round off or snap. Anyway, if I do get as far as reassembling it, I will need an exhaust clamp. Where did you get yours?

Posted

Does your's have the twin choke carby?

 

I used the 2CV clamp Chaseracer suggested, but any 48 mm so called French Clamp will do.

Except the expensive one from Der Franzose, which is too small.

 

Have fun finding a manifold gasket...

Posted

Mine is a single choke Solex. It seems to run alright although I haven't driven it on a road yet

Posted

Mine is a single choke Solex. It seems to run alright although I haven't driven it on a road yet

 

I want that, too.

Posted

What's the story with these Renna manifolds?

Maybe it's just Ovlovs, but I've never had a bother getting out short-fat or long/less fat starters out of Cleon motors from the underside. I'd never go in from the top. Later Ovlovs have a completely different manifold too. Still didn't impede access.  :?

Posted

 

Have fun finding a manifold gasket...

Would a Lotus Europa one fit?

 

There is a Lotus specialist not too far away...

Posted

You know, my dad used to fuck about with Webers a bit, he put one on his Capri Laser, alas that's the last carbed car he had and it was 20 years ago.

 

I'll ask if he knows much about them as he's always about to help.

Posted

What's the story with these Renna manifolds?

 

Maybe it's just Ovlovs, but I've never had a bother getting out short-fat or long/less fat starters out of Cleon motors from the underside. I'd never go in from the top. Later Ovlovs have a completely different manifold too. Still didn't impede access.  :?

 

The manifolds are not the problem. I can remove my starter from above without any issues.

The problem with D Spares & Tyres's car is OMGRHD.

On those, the steering column and shift linkage are next to the fannymould and thus essentially make a starter change an engine out job.

Posted

I'm still not getting the attack from the top approach. Is the bottom hermetically sealed?

 

It's a cock of a job with a RHD Volvo. LHD is a piece of piss.

Posted

Does your's have the twin choke carby?

 

I used the 2CV clamp Chaseracer suggested, but any 48 mm so called French Clamp will do.

Except the expensive one from Der Franzose, which is too small.

 

Franzose parts are overpriced, of shit quality and never fit, you should have learned that by now...

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm still not getting the attack from the top approach. Is the bottom hermetically sealed?

 

It's just a lot more convenient from above. On R16s the starter is half way up the engine block.

It's a piece of piss on an LHD.

Posted

Yes I was very slowly reading the "official way" last night for RHD. Also had a little read about that Solex 32 SEIEA hunk o' junk.

 

The French - great sense of humour when it comes to designing things for the English.

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