Junkman Posted October 9, 2018 Author Posted October 9, 2018 is there a screw in there? Take it out and see if needle or jet drops to floor and is lost. Might be the accel pump bleed needle, nothing to adjust. It's an adjusting screw complete with spring and O ring.
pshome Posted October 9, 2018 Posted October 9, 2018 This 32DIR diagram shows an idle adjustment needle (52).Is that the one?
SiC Posted October 10, 2018 Posted October 10, 2018 Site looks down. Here is a cached copy from archive.org. Archive of the page here: https://web.archive.org/web/20180223103525/https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/weber32DIR.htm
Junkman Posted October 10, 2018 Author Posted October 10, 2018 I have 52 as well, but the one I pointed out is in addition to it and not shown in those diagrams.
pshome Posted October 10, 2018 Posted October 10, 2018 3 idle adjustment screws? Please send some pictures of both sides of the carb. The ones you posted before don't show the linkage and sides.
Eddie Honda Posted October 10, 2018 Posted October 10, 2018 As Herr Junkman is still asking stoopid questions, I assume that he hasn't telephoned da man. In the meantime, now I am back at my desktop PC, I have found da man's old Lotus Word Pro rebuild files on the Weber 32DIR (specifically for Volvo 300 B14), converted them to PDF and stapled the individual files back together to make the full guide. Hopefully the huge quantity of pictures with wordz and pointy arrowz might shed some light on the matter. Credit to Mac/Mollusk (Apologies to JM if he has contacted da man and/or he wasn't in.)Macs 32DIR Rebuild article.pdf RobT 1
Mally Posted October 10, 2018 Posted October 10, 2018 That's brilliant.Even I can almost understand it.
Junkman Posted October 10, 2018 Author Posted October 10, 2018 I don't understand a single word, but my carby is a 93 and has the setup shown on page 30, second from top.Hence I can't adjust it.
pshome Posted October 10, 2018 Posted October 10, 2018 So there are indeed two idle adjustment screws and you deal with them as described:For type 93, idle speed is initially set to 600rpm by screw B with screw A having been screwed fully in. The final correct idle speed is then set by (A).Idle mixture is set by screw C. (note different position to that used on type 83).Hence, i would proceed like this:- Screw A fully in- Screw B set so engine runs at 600 rpm- turn idle mixture screw C clockwise until the engine runs rough.- turn idle mixture screw C counter-clockwise 1/2 to 3/4 of a full turn, so that the engine again runs smoother.- set rpm to desired normal idle speed using A Eddie Honda and alf892 2
dollywobbler Posted October 10, 2018 Posted October 10, 2018 This all makes me feel much more optimistic* about the possibility of getting the Dacia to run properly. Jim Bell and Junkman 2
Junkman Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 So there are indeed two idle adjustment screws and you deal with them as described: For type 93, idle speed is initially set to 600rpm by screw B with screw A having been screwed fully in. The final correct idle speed is then set by (A).Idle mixture is set by screw C. (note different position to that used on type 83). Hence, i would proceed like this: - Screw A fully in- Screw B set so engine runs at 600 rpm- turn idle mixture screw C clockwise until the engine runs rough.- turn idle mixture screw C counter-clockwise 1/2 to 3/4 of a full turn, so that the engine again runs smoother.- set rpm to desired normal idle speed using A When will you arrive? RobT, Dave_Q, They_all_do_that_sir and 1 other 4
pshome Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 Can we meet up somewhere in France? loserone 1
Junkman Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 By Jove, no!I'd rather brim it in Dover and drive past many a closed petrol station directly to Germany.
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 So long, Solex Junkman, RobT and The Reverend Bluejeans 3
D Spares & Tyres Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 So... I have to remove the starter motor from my 16. To do this I have to remove the exhaust manifold. Zero access and some rusty bolts which I assume will either round off or snap. Anyway, if I do get as far as reassembling it, I will need an exhaust clamp. Where did you get yours?
Junkman Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 Does your's have the twin choke carby? I used the 2CV clamp Chaseracer suggested, but any 48 mm so called French Clamp will do.Except the expensive one from Der Franzose, which is too small. Have fun finding a manifold gasket...
D Spares & Tyres Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 Mine is a single choke Solex. It seems to run alright although I haven't driven it on a road yet
pshome Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 So long, Solex solex.jpgtake revenge and sell it on leboncoin Junkman and Lacquer Peel 2
Junkman Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 Mine is a single choke Solex. It seems to run alright although I haven't driven it on a road yet I want that, too.
Eddie Honda Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 What's the story with these Renna manifolds?Maybe it's just Ovlovs, but I've never had a bother getting out short-fat or long/less fat starters out of Cleon motors from the underside. I'd never go in from the top. Later Ovlovs have a completely different manifold too. Still didn't impede access.
D Spares & Tyres Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 Have fun finding a manifold gasket...Would a Lotus Europa one fit? There is a Lotus specialist not too far away...
Ghosty Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 You know, my dad used to fuck about with Webers a bit, he put one on his Capri Laser, alas that's the last carbed car he had and it was 20 years ago. I'll ask if he knows much about them as he's always about to help.
Junkman Posted October 11, 2018 Author Posted October 11, 2018 What's the story with these Renna manifolds? Maybe it's just Ovlovs, but I've never had a bother getting out short-fat or long/less fat starters out of Cleon motors from the underside. I'd never go in from the top. Later Ovlovs have a completely different manifold too. Still didn't impede access. The manifolds are not the problem. I can remove my starter from above without any issues.The problem with D Spares & Tyres's car is OMGRHD.On those, the steering column and shift linkage are next to the fannymould and thus essentially make a starter change an engine out job.
Eddie Honda Posted October 12, 2018 Posted October 12, 2018 I'm still not getting the attack from the top approach. Is the bottom hermetically sealed? It's a cock of a job with a RHD Volvo. LHD is a piece of piss.
pshome Posted October 12, 2018 Posted October 12, 2018 Does your's have the twin choke carby? I used the 2CV clamp Chaseracer suggested, but any 48 mm so called French Clamp will do.Except the expensive one from Der Franzose, which is too small. Franzose parts are overpriced, of shit quality and never fit, you should have learned that by now... Cleon-Fonte 1
Junkman Posted October 12, 2018 Author Posted October 12, 2018 I'm still not getting the attack from the top approach. Is the bottom hermetically sealed? It's just a lot more convenient from above. On R16s the starter is half way up the engine block.It's a piece of piss on an LHD.
Eddie Honda Posted October 12, 2018 Posted October 12, 2018 Yes I was very slowly reading the "official way" last night for RHD. Also had a little read about that Solex 32 SEIEA hunk o' junk. The French - great sense of humour when it comes to designing things for the English. chaseracer 1
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