Jump to content

The Epic Austrian owned R16 from Germany doing French things in a Parallel Universe near England Saga


Recommended Posts

Posted

 

But before the work on the interior can continue, the sound deadening I just ordered needs to arrive.

 

What sound deadening did you end up going for? 

 

I'm thinking of putting something in my LNA before I stick the interior back in - Most of the sound deadening market seems to be aimed at the big stereo / brrraaaap brrraaap brigade.

Posted

I went for something that was recommended to me by a car upholsterer.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimat-2mm-8-Sheet-Pack-Car-Van-Truck-Sound-Deadening-Vibration-Mat-32-32SqFt/361463139142

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

The requirement is, it must not be spongy, since the R16 merely has thin rubber mats as floor covering.

If I used some thick and soft underlay, heels would destroy the rubber mats in no time.

That stuff is also fire retardent.

 

If you have carpet, put this stuff onto the metal floor, then put as much underfelt as possible on top of it.

Posted

You will never believe this - I actually managed to send off the paperwork to the DVLA today.

So if everything goes right, in a country, where you have to apply for a licence to operate a telly,

I might have this thing registered in four to six - uh - years. If everything goes right that is.

The powers there are are going to decide upon it now.

I hope they will find an old, beaten up Renner with 54 OMGBHP worthy of being held back on

her Majesty's low and highways by British motorists.

If everything goes right, I'm looking a bit forward to which reg they are going to assign.

In the meantime, I'm saving up for a set of new tyres, since the ones on the car will have

flat patches by then.

 

 

The DVLA saw it as appropriate to reject my registration application.

  • Like 1
Posted

The DVLA saw it as appropriate to reject my registration application.

 

 

WTF? On what grounds? 

Posted

1. The VIN on the Nova Certificate is wrong.

 

2. The original German reg cert was not attached, only a photocopy.

Posted

The successful success is a sucessful one.

 

36163915192_08ea6ff943_z.jpg

 

36288539246_a0539232d5_z.jpg

 

36163912362_cc5e23bb16_z.jpg

 

 

Needless to say that the driver's side wires were swapped, so it did main on dipped and dipped on main.

Epic TÜV and MoT fail.

Posted

That is cool as all hell, and so appropriate for the car! 

  • Like 2
Posted

You do, however, realise that this is main beam, yes?

Thanks God a gentleman doesn't drive by night.

  • Like 2
Posted

These all look like areas you shouldn't be looking at.

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Junkman, really enjoying your R16 thread. Now, speaking as someone who owned and ran a succession of R16s back in the 1980s and spent a great deal of time and effort rustproofing (only partially successfully) and welding them for MoT every year.. I want to commend you for your repairs to this fine example. From my experience the earlier the car the better it is built.

 

On them all the only really weak point for terminal rust is where the sills extend to form the rear outboard suspension joint/torsion bar end. There is something about the stress this area of steel is subjected to plus an almost permanent poultice of trapped wet mud that seems to accelerate the rot. On the first 16 I had, a 1968 TS, one of the trailing arms actually began to break away and collapsed the suspension. I should mention that we were always hosing them down underneath but as the youngest 16 I owned was already five years old by the time I got it, the rust was probably already in them.

 

Somewhere on the interweb is a site where a chap restored an R4 and fitted it with an R5 Gordini engine. He made and fitted plastic wheel arch liners to the finished car; now that would be a perfect solution for the R16's mud trap body too...

 

Loved the 16s., towed my sailing dinghies thousands of miles to events all over Britain.

 

If I can find any of my pics I'll post them here.

 

Squirrel2

Posted

The next thing for this car is thorough rustproofing.

But for this I need to drive it to a garage and for thus I need a reg.

Posted

On the first 16 I had, a 1968 TS, one of the trailing arms actually began to break away and collapsed the suspension.

But see that's the wonderful thing with old Renaults - even if the trailing arm snaps off completely, the wheel will still be held on by the torsion bar. I drove my Renault 4 thus for several months - made for a couple of interesting* oversteer moments when I took a corner too enthusiastically, but most of the time you couldn't even notice.

Posted

Hi Junkman, really enjoying your R16 thread. Now, speaking as someone who owned and ran a succession of R16s back in the 1980s and spent a great deal of time and effort rustproofing (only partially successfully) and welding them for MoT every year.. I want to commend you for your repairs to this fine example. From my experience the earlier the car the better it is built.

On them all the only really weak point for terminal rust is where the sills extend to form the rear outboard suspension joint/torsion bar end. There is something about the stress this area of steel is subjected to plus an almost permanent poultice of trapped wet mud that seems to accelerate the rot. On the first 16 I had, a 1968 TS, one of the trailing arms actually began to break away and collapsed the suspension. I should mention that we were always hosing them down underneath but as the youngest 16 I owned was already five years old by the time I got it, the rust was probably already in them.

Somewhere on the interweb is a site where a chap restored an R4 and fitted it with an R5 Gordini engine. He made and fitted plastic wheel arch liners to the finished car; now that would be a perfect solution for the R16's mud trap body too...

Loved the 16s., towed my sailing dinghies thousands of miles to events all over Britain.

If I can find any of my pics I'll post them here.

Squirrel2

It'll be this chap here:

 

http://www.renault4.co.uk

  • Like 1
Posted

The next thing for this car is thorough rustproofing.

But for this I need to drive it to a garage and for thus I need a reg.

Where do you plan to take it for rustproofing?

Posted

So after this stuff dried, like in three to four years, I can put in that Ultimät.

Not that there is any rush, mind, the mills of bureaucracy grind slowly, ffs.

Posted

At first I thought you'd replaced your carpets with checkerplate.

Posted

At first I thought you'd replaced your carpets with checkerplate.

 

Une vie a vivre

Posted

At first I thought you'd replaced your carpets with checkerplate.

Alarmingly the material to do such a thing can be purchased for money; why it's appropriate that sticky backed plastic embossed to look like checkerplate exists is not clear to me.

  • Like 3
Posted

Alarmingly the material to do such a thing can be purchased for money; why it's appropriate that sticky backed plastic embossed to look like checkerplate exists is not clear to me.

 

The world is truly a mad place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...