Junkman Posted July 30, 2017 Author Posted July 30, 2017 Just one day at the Junktowers. One day. Sigmund Fraud, Magnificent Rustbucket, Cleon-Fonte and 2 others 5
Largactil Posted July 31, 2017 Posted July 31, 2017 But before the work on the interior can continue, the sound deadening I just ordered needs to arrive. What sound deadening did you end up going for? I'm thinking of putting something in my LNA before I stick the interior back in - Most of the sound deadening market seems to be aimed at the big stereo / brrraaaap brrraaap brigade.
Junkman Posted July 31, 2017 Author Posted July 31, 2017 I went for something that was recommended to me by a car upholsterer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimat-2mm-8-Sheet-Pack-Car-Van-Truck-Sound-Deadening-Vibration-Mat-32-32SqFt/361463139142 The requirement is, it must not be spongy, since the R16 merely has thin rubber mats as floor covering.If I used some thick and soft underlay, heels would destroy the rubber mats in no time.That stuff is also fire retardent. If you have carpet, put this stuff onto the metal floor, then put as much underfelt as possible on top of it. Largactil 1
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 You will never believe this - I actually managed to send off the paperwork to the DVLA today.So if everything goes right, in a country, where you have to apply for a licence to operate a telly,I might have this thing registered in four to six - uh - years. If everything goes right that is.The powers there are are going to decide upon it now.I hope they will find an old, beaten up Renner with 54 OMGBHP worthy of being held back onher Majesty's low and highways by British motorists.If everything goes right, I'm looking a bit forward to which reg they are going to assign.In the meantime, I'm saving up for a set of new tyres, since the ones on the car will haveflat patches by then. The DVLA saw it as appropriate to reject my registration application. nigel bickle 1
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 The DVLA saw it as appropriate to reject my registration application. WTF? On what grounds?
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 1. The VIN on the Nova Certificate is wrong. 2. The original German reg cert was not attached, only a photocopy.
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 On the plus side, I received some very important spares. chaseracer 1
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 The successful success is a sucessful one. Needless to say that the driver's side wires were swapped, so it did main on dipped and dipped on main.Epic TÜV and MoT fail. Squirrel2, CGSB, Rusty_Rocket and 18 others 21
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 That is cool as all hell, and so appropriate for the car! Magnificent Rustbucket and Junkman 2
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 You do, however, realise that this is main beam, yes?Thanks God a gentleman doesn't drive by night. Magnificent Rustbucket and dollywobbler 2
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 Coprolalia, CGSB, Lacquer Peel and 2 others 5
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 These all look like areas you shouldn't be looking at. Magnificent Rustbucket and alf892 2
Junkman Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 These all look like areas you should put Isopon on. EFA Dave_Q, Joloke and tooSavvy 3
Junkman Posted August 4, 2017 Author Posted August 4, 2017 Dashboard is back together. Headlights are most useless by night. CGSB, catsinthewelder, somewhatfoolish and 6 others 9
Squirrel2 Posted August 4, 2017 Posted August 4, 2017 Hi Junkman, really enjoying your R16 thread. Now, speaking as someone who owned and ran a succession of R16s back in the 1980s and spent a great deal of time and effort rustproofing (only partially successfully) and welding them for MoT every year.. I want to commend you for your repairs to this fine example. From my experience the earlier the car the better it is built. On them all the only really weak point for terminal rust is where the sills extend to form the rear outboard suspension joint/torsion bar end. There is something about the stress this area of steel is subjected to plus an almost permanent poultice of trapped wet mud that seems to accelerate the rot. On the first 16 I had, a 1968 TS, one of the trailing arms actually began to break away and collapsed the suspension. I should mention that we were always hosing them down underneath but as the youngest 16 I owned was already five years old by the time I got it, the rust was probably already in them. Somewhere on the interweb is a site where a chap restored an R4 and fitted it with an R5 Gordini engine. He made and fitted plastic wheel arch liners to the finished car; now that would be a perfect solution for the R16's mud trap body too... Loved the 16s., towed my sailing dinghies thousands of miles to events all over Britain. If I can find any of my pics I'll post them here. Squirrel2 Lacquer Peel, Junkman, Magnificent Rustbucket and 2 others 5
Junkman Posted August 5, 2017 Author Posted August 5, 2017 The next thing for this car is thorough rustproofing.But for this I need to drive it to a garage and for thus I need a reg.
wuvvum Posted August 5, 2017 Posted August 5, 2017 On the first 16 I had, a 1968 TS, one of the trailing arms actually began to break away and collapsed the suspension.But see that's the wonderful thing with old Renaults - even if the trailing arm snaps off completely, the wheel will still be held on by the torsion bar. I drove my Renault 4 thus for several months - made for a couple of interesting* oversteer moments when I took a corner too enthusiastically, but most of the time you couldn't even notice. Dave_Q, Squirrel2, Junkman and 1 other 4
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted August 5, 2017 Posted August 5, 2017 . Sigmund Fraud, Junkman, Rusty_Rocket and 7 others 10
Parky Posted August 5, 2017 Posted August 5, 2017 Hi Junkman, really enjoying your R16 thread. Now, speaking as someone who owned and ran a succession of R16s back in the 1980s and spent a great deal of time and effort rustproofing (only partially successfully) and welding them for MoT every year.. I want to commend you for your repairs to this fine example. From my experience the earlier the car the better it is built.On them all the only really weak point for terminal rust is where the sills extend to form the rear outboard suspension joint/torsion bar end. There is something about the stress this area of steel is subjected to plus an almost permanent poultice of trapped wet mud that seems to accelerate the rot. On the first 16 I had, a 1968 TS, one of the trailing arms actually began to break away and collapsed the suspension. I should mention that we were always hosing them down underneath but as the youngest 16 I owned was already five years old by the time I got it, the rust was probably already in them.Somewhere on the interweb is a site where a chap restored an R4 and fitted it with an R5 Gordini engine. He made and fitted plastic wheel arch liners to the finished car; now that would be a perfect solution for the R16's mud trap body too...Loved the 16s., towed my sailing dinghies thousands of miles to events all over Britain.If I can find any of my pics I'll post them here.Squirrel2It'll be this chap here: http://www.renault4.co.uk Magnificent Rustbucket 1
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted August 5, 2017 Posted August 5, 2017 The next thing for this car is thorough rustproofing. But for this I need to drive it to a garage and for thus I need a reg. Where do you plan to take it for rustproofing?
Junkman Posted August 6, 2017 Author Posted August 6, 2017 Major Tom at Lake View Garage. Magnificent Rustbucket 1
vulgalour Posted August 6, 2017 Posted August 6, 2017 Guess what I saw today? http://autoshite.com/topic/29104-croft-nostaliga-festival-like-goodwood-but-cheaper/?p=1283206 That's right, a R16TX, the car your elders (and betters?) suggest you should have bought. Magnificent Rustbucket, Junkman, Dick Cheeseburger and 2 others 5
Junkman Posted August 7, 2017 Author Posted August 7, 2017 Stuff was painted black with black paint. richardthestag, RayMK, Cleon-Fonte and 3 others 6
Junkman Posted August 7, 2017 Author Posted August 7, 2017 So after this stuff dried, like in three to four years, I can put in that Ultimät.Not that there is any rush, mind, the mills of bureaucracy grind slowly, ffs. STUNO 1
Junkman Posted August 9, 2017 Author Posted August 9, 2017 Shhhhh... Finally we're getting somewhere. Dave_Q, Magnificent Rustbucket, tinribs and 10 others 13
Cleon-Fonte Posted August 9, 2017 Posted August 9, 2017 At first I thought you'd replaced your carpets with checkerplate. Ghosty, Timewaster, Vince70 and 4 others 7
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted August 9, 2017 Posted August 9, 2017 At first I thought you'd replaced your carpets with checkerplate. Une vie a vivre Sigmund Fraud, Ghosty, Junkman and 10 others 13
somewhatfoolish Posted August 9, 2017 Posted August 9, 2017 At first I thought you'd replaced your carpets with checkerplate.Alarmingly the material to do such a thing can be purchased for money; why it's appropriate that sticky backed plastic embossed to look like checkerplate exists is not clear to me. Cleon-Fonte, Junkman and tooSavvy 3
Cleon-Fonte Posted August 9, 2017 Posted August 9, 2017 Alarmingly the material to do such a thing can be purchased for money; why it's appropriate that sticky backed plastic embossed to look like checkerplate exists is not clear to me. The world is truly a mad place. Junkman 1
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