SiC Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Dunno if this is just due to a flat battery at some point, but I cleared those (infact I got out of the car just incase the app maker built an Easter egg into the app and the air bags went off... No don't worry, there isn't anything in there like that! Then read the engine again and got these two codes up as stored Screenshot_20171128-095248.png These won't clear, so they can stay! Still no dash lights so that's fine, I won't prod the beast too much yet! They may have been triggered by clearing the codes, as it make clear the calibration of the throttle body. Once either ignition cycled or just driven, it'll probably fix those itself. beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 So, todays jobs. Number one was to swap the identical heater controls. Identical....Ah buggar FY51 YT55 Still, maybe the internals are the same, so out came the dash from the scrap gooner onto the back seat And here we go Luckily the dash on FV51 has been apart before, so everything almost fell off with a light tug Just need to plug the other one in and... ah, different sized connectors! Mmmm,. maybe the internals are identical, so off with the front We want this board, so off with the back and unplug it Apart with the non lit one, and yes, there is a similarity! So out with both boards And all we have to do is plug the blue one into the green and Nope! One connector is a different size Bollocks to you, it can stay unlit until I've sorted all the other issues/it annoys me too much and I'll buy another unit from ebay. Back together and in it went And I picked up all the bits for the other unit and threw it into YT55 for now (might lob it together and stick it on ebay, but I imagine their quite cheap). Did eye up the unlit board for any obvious contact issues but found none. So, next job, I went to remove the radio from YT55. This involved starting it up and moving it away from the fence so I could open the doors as the DAB aerial runs up that side, but it was dead, and I could not be bothered to jump it so just removed the phone mic Then had the nearly new blades from YT55 off and fitted to FV51, although the blades fitted are not too bad, so will keep them as a spare pair. The shite on the screen doesnt help it much. What's next? Well, the super important matter of... THE MISSING LENS AND GENERAL NOT WORKING-NESS OF THE PASSENGER VANITY MIRROR LIGHT... Mainly because if I didn't fix it now it would cost me a tenner for the part on ebay. Naked and dead The contact for the switch that's pressed when you open the mirror cover just needed a slight re-profiling with my fingers to provide the perfect contact. Unfortunatly I snapped the mirror glass, but no fear! Huzzah! Something I will NEVER use is fixed! The drivers one works fine, however the flap on the glass sticks on that too, so will swap that round soon, will probably just swap the whole flipping visor, it's easier (as I found out near the end of the passenger side! I then found myself with a few minutes before I needed to be back, so gave the phone mic some thought. I removed the bit of trim that holds the sun visors at the centre, as it had a grille looking thing Alas it has a thing already inside. Asking on the facebook gooner group, I got about 19 different answers as to what it is, and I agree with one of them, it's the factory phone mic for the optional car kit. But because at the time I did not know this, I had the rear view mirror surround down And after blowing all the shite out of the climate control sensor fan, worked out that if I dismantled the mic end so just the internals were left, it sits nicely against the grille on the other side However, the rear view mirror surround won't clip back on, then I ran out of time so had to leave it. If the first part is indeed a microphone, I'll sack off the rear view mirror idea and pop the microphone where it should go, and sack off the factory original. Tune in tomorrow for more excitement, where I shall attempt to remove an aerial, and maybe fit a radio! I also noticed the rear roof light DOES NOT WORK... Also I think the exhaust is blowing, and there's a hollow knock from the passenger side rear end over bumps...but I can't really look at all that stuff in my work clothes, and I need to strip as much from YT55 as quickly as I can! oldcars, Shep Shepherd, privatewire and 2 others 5
Guest Hooli Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Glad to see you doing all the pointless annoying bits & ignoring the real faults, it's the best thing to do with a goona. oldcars, beko1987, Kiltox and 1 other 4
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 I'm a bit loathe to do too much until the MOT at the beginning of Jan! Plus, there's no parts on YT55 that will help me fix what could be the matter with it, so I'll leave it. The exhaust blow is a very slight murmer and rattle, and tbh could be anything. Likewise the knock from the back, all looked OK with an eyeball, the boot floor or spare wheel could be bumping about. RE the non lit heaters, I'm going to try this tonight, need to get the soldering iron out for a Miele Hoover I must fix, will give it a go! Looks like it might be a dry solder joint http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/105-laguna/519-renault-laguna-ii-interiors-climate-illumination-auto-climate-version-4.html
Kiltox Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Knock from the back? Could be okay? Bushes, sir. TADT
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Maybe, I'll wait until I've looked at all other options first. The heaters lit up after I hit a pothole on the m40! Then went off again, came back on with a tap for a while then went off again, so dry solder joint it is! Will look at that some time
Kiltox Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 They’re made of chocolate - I had a 3 year old one with 17k on the clock that had knackered bushes
Lacquer Peel Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Yo beko, which app and Bluetooth code reader are you using? I need to reset the airbag light on my girlfriend's Clio but my cheapy reader isn't acknowledged by Oh No!
Kiltox Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 OhNoRenault - written by a famous shiter. The Moog 1
Guest Hooli Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 *chuckles at the number of jobs done has gone down in thread title* beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Yo beko, which app and Bluetooth code reader are you using? I need to reset the airbag light on my girlfriend's Clio but my cheapy reader isn't acknowledged by Oh No!The app is oh no, the reader is a cheap ebay job, which luckily works as they are fiddly apparently. I bought mine long before my descent into renaults for torque on vauxhall. SiC will be able to link you to one that works. I would send you a pic of mine but it looks identical to the million other cheap Chinese ones out there! Lacquer Peel 1
Guest Hooli Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 From memory it's the version of the reader that matters, most of the fakes are v2.1 which never existed. That's for the type of reader SiC told me to get & is in the Saab but it's cold outside etc.
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Found a thread on the renault forum earlier that was actually helpful! So grabbed the heater controls, and gave chip 101 a stroke with a soldering iron... Stroked it too hard though as it fell off the board, oops However using some precision* tools I got it back on Gave the glass led display a good clean with a baby wipe and a microfiber to buff, and.... Huzzah! I no longer have to blindly push buttons until I feel heat or the windscreen demists! If it goes again I'll just bridge the connections... privatewire, Supernaut, Lord Sterling and 4 others 7
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 *chuckles at the number of jobs done has gone down in thread title*Thanks! Think I'll change it daily to reflect the jobs done vs jobs tried, just whilst I Potter about sorting the silly fiddly stuff whilst I have a whole spare car to raid. My stepmum said I have a brake light out on one side, will enlist my mother to help and go bulb replacing tomorrow, and re-stock my depleted bulb kits with everything bar main beam bulbs as I can't get those from yt55!
SiC Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 If you bridge it, you'll pop all the LEDs. Its there to limit the amount of current flowing into the LEDs. Nothing to stop you soldering a thru hole 100 Ohm resistor (its value) on though instead if you did loose it. You also could have got away with just soldering each side with a fresh blob of solder on rather than trying to wipe and heat the whole part.
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 I didn't mean to take it off, just gently warm the edges... Then oops
Pillock Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Yeah, that's no chip, that's just a boggo resistor. As such it's unlikely to stop working, but it sounds like it had a dry joint. I'd be surprised if it suffers again so quickly. I've just spent ages trying to work out the difference between the two AC control panels from the front - the point that you noticed they weren't the same. I'm stumped! What was the giveaway? mercedade 1
Kiltox Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Good job. Expert electronics repairs (autoshite) ltd beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Good job. Expert electronics repairs (autoshite) ltdI know there's chaps who work on tiny circuitry for a living on here, am bracing myself for the outcry and piss taking!
Guest Hooli Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Looks better than factory to me. beko1987 1
SiC Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 It works, the part is firmly attached, so its a valid repair! beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Yeah, that's no chip, that's just a boggo resistor. As such it's unlikely to stop working, but it sounds like it had a dry joint. I'd be surprised if it suffers again so quickly. I've just spent ages trying to work out the difference between the two AC control panels from the front - the point that you noticed they weren't the same. I'm stumped! What was the giveaway?There was a few... The front fascia is different. On the ph2 it goes down far and incorporates the keycard holder. On the ph1 it doesn't, the keycard holder is seperate. Then the green plugs are a different size Then one plug on the 2 circuit boards are different, and I didn't feel confident just seeing if it would work and all the pins were needed, as I like being warm so put it back together and moved on
SiC Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 I've inhaled SMD resistors before. When they get to 0201 size, they get a bit awkward to work with. A deep breath and they're gone! beko1987 1
Pillock Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Referred to in the retro computer scene as "birdseed".
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 So I decided to have a look through the service history, since there is so much, and put this together What Mileage Cost Stabiliser Link 72,700 £ 21.52 Fan Motor 72880 £ 30.00 Rear Bush LH 73,870 £ 49.46 2011Rear Pads 73,870 £ 24.50 Front Shocks 74969 £ 78.90 Glass Cleaner 75,160 £ 3.25 Rear Tyres 75,160 £ 139.00 New Key Card! 81,120 £ 98.11 Gear Oil 82,591 £ 20.30 Rear Bushes 82,591 £ 58.54 2013Front Tyres 83,430 £ 139.20 Rear Bush RH £ 49.46 2011Rear Brake Pads £ 24.50 Anti-Freeze Tester £ 5.95 Renault Laguna II FR £ 50.95 Strut Mounting Kit £ 90.00 Battery £ 59.95 Window Regulator £ 115.00 Caliper 55 Coil Springs x2 £ 72.30 Ball Joint £ 10.68 Oil Filter 5.42 Tie Rods L/R £ 24.86 Screwed Adapter Male £ 4.47 Fan Controller £ 12.00 Wing Mirror Covers £ 12.00 Clip £ 6.38 Cover Rod End £ 3.91 Rear Shock Absorbers £ 76.90 Rear Bushes £ 37.00 Air Filterq £ 13.32 Strut Top Bearings £ 21.60 ARB Link £ 13.20 Rear Wiper Blade £ 7.45 Brake Caliper £ 65.75 Elec wind mech FR-RH £ 30.00 Battery £ 65.00 Strut Top Mounts £ 62.00 Shock Absorbers £ 78.90 Total - £1,736.73... Just on that Some of it doesn't make sense, there's a fair few duplicate part's orders a month or so apart, so someone might have been ripped off, but Mr Robin Booth certainly put some money into the old girl! Sort of nice, sort of not as most of the major stuff is getting quite old now, but meh, if it's been off once before it might be easier now... Mileage is from the handwritten book where it matches! Might write a small page up on what I've done it it next week...
Tickman Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 I've just spent ages trying to work out the difference between the two AC control panels from the front - the point that you noticed they weren't the same. I'm stumped! What was the giveaway?Glad I wasn't the only one!
beko1987 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Aha! Found within the MOT papers, from JULY 2016, at 101,378k (it's only on 112k now), thank your Mr Chapman from New York, Lincolnshire, £395.95 for a cambelt kit, aux belt, idler pulley and exhaust rubbers! That's the moneyshot. Don't even need to bother with Cambelt roulette either oldcars and Tickman 2
beko1987 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Posted November 29, 2017 More stuff this lunchtime! Rear wiper came off YT55 as a mate at work needs a new rear one for his astra, and it's similar enough, and won't fit FV51 Luckily the rear blade on FV51 is perfect, so no worries there. Then it was time to wake up YT55 Took an engine bay shot whilst I waited, the 1.9 looks easier to work on, might have to investigate that damp patch at the top though It's 300% less oily than YT55 is under all the covers YT55 wouldn't start still, so I extracted my USB extension lead And grabbed the drivers sun visor to replace the stiff one in FV51 YT55 grumbled into life now, so I unhooked it, moved FV51 back and YT55 forward, then extracted my DAB aerial that runs all alone the passenger side, and removed the rear trim 24V6Turbo wanted, and cut my first seatbelt up, which was fun! (had to remove the belt to remove the trim and sod unbolting it...) That done, I proceeded to remove the glovebox in FV51 to start running the DAB aerial back in, and found some treasure! Are these yours Tim? If so say and I'll post them back, if not I'll take up bird watching or something Thought I would have a quick shufty of the cabin filter whilst it was there, and I'm glad I did! Blimey YT55 revealed a much better one, so I fitted that! I also noted that the glovebox light did not work, so a quick re-profile of the contact spring and it was good to go, I also replaced the bulb in the rear roof light The DAB aerial is just tucked in the edge of the door seals, and just behind the pillar covers, nice and simple! I then removed the CD from the player, and got 2 small screwdrivers to pop the clips and removed the Renault original Plugged my Pioneer in to double check before I went too far and YES, it works, but NO, I do not want to set it up now Because I needed to unplug it all again to fit the holding cage. Fitted it nicely, ran the USB lead into the glovebox this time rather than under the centre arm rest, and upon a quick test drive noticed a horrible sound from my speaker... So replaced that! Another one isn't too happy either, so I might just replace all the speakers for now, I did have thoughts with YT55 of buying some cheap, better speakers anyway so I'll keep that thought for a while Either way, it all works, I test called Amy to double check And set the display and buttons to a nice pale blue, as it seems less glarey than the ice white it was before. But even if it is, I can simply hide it! Job done for today, and I can keep the cupholder which is excellent, as I like it! Moar pointless pottering tomorrow, although I have some filming to do so not sure what I will get done. mercedade, Datsuncog, oldcars and 7 others 10
Kiltox Posted November 29, 2017 Posted November 29, 2017 That cabin filter is newish - I changed it beko1987 1
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