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Genuine Granadaland Jaguar Reintroduced to Granadaland! Caution: New MoT content!


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Posted

It'll be a six litre V12 before this fucking year is over.

Six litre? Post 1986 sir.

 

Man up and get a pre-HE 5.3

  • Like 3
Posted

Since everyone by now has realised how right I am, pre '86 shite is in such demand, that even I can no longer afford it.

  • Like 3
Posted

Six litre? Post 1986 sir.

 

Man up and get a pre-HE 5.3

 

 

But the XJ40 should have come out before 1986 - BL started designing it in 1972!   ;)

 

It was delayed longer than some cars last. The XJ40 should have replaced the Series 2 - the Series 3 was a hastily cobbled together stop-gap with Xj40-style bumpers and a roofline ruined by Pininfarina. The XJ40 wasn't ready in time, then it was delayed to 1984, then to 1986 - and quite a few people thought it should have been delayed longer than that. They didn't get it right until 1990.

 

WilliamLyonsXJ40.jpg

 

With William Lyons in IIRC late 1980

  • Like 3
Posted

First thing's first, let's give it a check over for rust. It looks pretty good underneath. I removed this inner wing inspection flap, and found that area to also be rust free. Excellent! No rust to worry about. 

 

post-17021-0-83187100-1489446530_thumb.jpg

 

That said, there was a little room for cosmetic improvement. With the help of some spray paint Junkman found in his basement, I set about the wheel centres. The red paint someone had painted them with was household gloss, although the colour match was almost exact. Well done, I guess [simultaneous clapping and shrugging motion].

 

post-17021-0-54152800-1489446735_thumb.jpg

 

Speaking of wheels, did we mention how many new tyres it came with? Five. I can't remember ever having a car where the spare tyre wasn't a lake dredge special

 

post-17021-0-96607700-1489446888_thumb.jpg

 

Next thing. There's a minor fault with the cruise control, in that it doesn't work. When engaged, the car just slowly accelerates. Someone on the internet suggested this was caused by dried out solder joints in the control box, so I removed said control box and meticulously reflowed each and every solder joint on the board. 

 

post-17021-0-93881800-1489456463_thumb.jpg

 

Did that fix it? You bet!

 

post-17021-0-75568100-1489456573_thumb.jpg

 

No, it did not. 

 

But I can worry about that later, because I have something more pressing to deal with. The other day I took a nice photo of the dash for the Dash at Night thread, in which it was noticed that the ABS light was missing. Probably just a dead bulb, we decided. Since a few others were out too, it couldn't hurt to pull the cluster and construct a bulb testing device. 

 

post-17021-0-46834100-1489455920_thumb.jpg

 

A handful of new bulbs later, and here's our ABS light! 

 

post-17021-0-21690800-1489456673_thumb.jpg

 

So glad to see it, since that's an MOT issue! Now, you're probably wondering, did the light go out when it was supposed to? You bet!

 

post-17021-0-75568100-1489456573_thumb.jpg

 

No, it did not. 

Posted

Handy of jaguar to add that inspection flap

  • Like 4
Posted

N  E  E  D  S     M  O  R  E    S  P  A  C  E  S

  • Like 3
Posted

I would also point the finger of suspicion at the "reliable German Cruise control module", but it could conceivably be a vacuum fault - though vacuum faults will more often cause the cruise control to fail completely.

 

The cruise control works/sets the throttle using the vacuum bellows. The vacuum is generated using a pump sited under the air cleaner housing. Also under the air cleaner housing is a dump valve - which is what allows the cruise control unit to release the throttle using the bellows. The dump valve's release nipple doofer could conceivably be blocked or restricted causing the bellows to set the throttle too far open. The part number of the dump valve is DAC7237.

 

Equally, what is the condition of the vacuum line which runs to the dump valve? - Check that it isn't pinched or blocked.

 

Check the smoothness of the bellows to throttle linkage - does it stick?

 

Is the throttle butterfly opening and closing as it should? If it is very dirty, I wonder if it could stick slightly, then suddenly open when the cruise control pulls on it hard enough? The throttle butterfly is well worth cleaning out if you haven't already (I seem to recall you have already done this - I should read the thread really!) - but if you haven't, it is well worth doing anyway since a clean throttle body makes a big difference to the running of the AJ6 engine, especially at idle.

 

All this said, I still think the problem is probably in the module! (You know, the one I said never goes wrong about two pages ago...)

 

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/jaguar-xj6-parts/air-and-fuel-delivery-systems/speed-control-system/speed-control-actuator

  • Like 2
Posted

With the help of some spray paint Junkman found in his basement...

The dungeon at the Junktowers will never cease to be a palladium of amazing treasures.

Posted

Oh I love this thread. Nothing useful to contribute, but just wanted to say I appreciate this contribution to the forum :D

Posted

cruise

 

All the vacuum pipes and stuff appear to be in excellent condition, the butterfly opens and closes smoothly. If I squeeze the bellows, I hear the air whoosh out (of the dump valve, presumably).

 

 

 

 

Posted

Not a problem with the actual switch gear itself is it? I had a similar problem with my X300 when I first bought it. The button to accelerate would jam in, meaning your only option was to cancel the cruise to avoid going down the M27 at 155mph.

  • Like 1
Posted

I was absolutely messed up with a cold between Thursday and Tuesday, so I've not not nearly as much done as I'd have liked. In fact, it's gone backwards, if anything. I was quite confident I could make a basic repair patch for that bit of the wings, but as I probe them for good metal they're crumbling more and more. I'm scared to poke any further... 

 

After putting some petrol in it, I noticed the front numberplate had gone AWOL. A nervous re-tracing of my route followed, with me no doubt looking shady as shit kerb crawling through residential areas with no plate on the car. Until, ah, this looks like something. 

 

post-17021-0-18523000-1490280341_thumb.jpg

 

So much for the expensive sticky pads I bought. In fairness, although I scrubbed the bumper as clean as possible, it does have a slightly slick feel to it so they probably stood no chance. It's screwed on now. 

 

post-17021-0-23972000-1490280937_thumb.jpg

 

New genuine Jaguar parts fitted. 

 

To finish today's terrible, boring update: I bought some degreaser to clean the Rover's engine, and buoyed by the success, thought it'd be just wonderful to dress up the Jag's engine bay a bit. Well, despite my extreme care to avoid anything electrical, it turns out the Jaguar is less tolerant of moisture based shenanigans and it is now refusing to start. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Not a problem with the actual switch gear itself is it? I had a similar problem with my X300 when I first bought it. The button to accelerate would jam in, meaning your only option was to cancel the cruise to avoid going down the M27 at 155mph.

 

 

I don't think there is a button to increase... you can only set speed and resume. 

Posted

You did well to spot the registration plate!

 

 

The 'Set' button will increase the speed if you hold it down. It is surprisingly aggressive. In case you don't have a handbook with the car, this is the relevant section in mine (a later car, but I'm sure it will be the same).

 

Cruise%20control%201.jpg

 

Cruise%20control%202.jpg

 

 

Oh dear with the pressure washer! I wonder if you have water in the spark plug holes, or maybe a relay or two, or even the distributor?

  • Like 3
Posted

Ah, that's very useful, thanks! It does behave as if the SET button is being held down!

 

Oh dear with the pressure washer! I wonder if you have water in the spark plug holes, or maybe a relay or two, or even the distributor?

 

 

Five hours since the moistening, and it still won't start... uh oh

 

There was no pressure washer though! I carefully used a paintbrush to dab cleaner on greasy areas, and never got a chance to rinse it off. Plugs are dry, distributor is dry, I've had a hairdryer on the rest of it... what have I done?! Crap. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I bought some degreaser to clean the Rover's engine, and buoyed by the success, thought it'd be just wonderful to dress up the Jag's engine bay a bit...

What has been learned?

  • Like 2
Posted

Literally nothing. 

 

[dismantles ECU to polish circuit board traces]

  • Like 3
Posted

What has been learned?

 

 

In fairness, these XJ40s do have the last engine Jaguar bothered to make attractive. It's not quite the noble sight of the old XK under the bonnet, but it is close :D

 

 

Detailed22.jpg

Posted

 

So much for the expensive sticky pads I bought. 

 

 

I bought some pads from Halfords recently and they were shite as well, despite appearing to be identical to some Old Man had that worked stupidly well. The rear plate fell off the 216 in only a couple of weeks, and what was left of the pads rubbed off the back of the plate with my thumb. I used Harris number plate tape to reattach it, and it seems better.

Posted

The ones I used on the 405 didn't last long either.

 

Conclusion: Try to find pre 1986 pads.

  • Like 3
Posted

Okay, we have a serious problem now.

The steering rack is busted.

 

Does anyone out there have a useable Adwest one?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

YAY! The ABS light has gone out legitimately! 

 

post-17021-0-32415700-1492776167_thumb.jpg

 

New ABS computer module (tenner including postage from eBay) has sorted it! 

 

So only the steering rack leak to deal with now, and I can chance an MOT. I'm feeling pretty optimistic about it at the moment... 

  • Like 7
Posted

Excellent. I like how you'll have this fixed and ready to go, just as I fail to get home in my new purchase in a cloud of steam.

  • Like 2
Posted

Good news on the ABS!

 

There seems to be a lot of posts missing from this thread.

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