Bren Posted December 21, 2016 Posted December 21, 2016 Get it done and run it into the ground AMC Rebel and sierraman 2
NorfolkNWeigh Posted December 21, 2016 Posted December 21, 2016 Not wanting to teach my grandma to suck eggs or owt. But I've found with fails like this, that suggesting to the garage that if it could end up with 12 months ticket for say £200 or whatever, I'll do it ,otherwise I'll scrap it, usually results in a satisfactory outcome for all involved. The welding costs them nothing but time , so depends how much they've got on this week. Magnificent Rustbucket and AMC Rebel 2
sierraman Posted December 21, 2016 Posted December 21, 2016 Where had it failed then on the corrosion? I'm only going on where they usually fail.
AMC Rebel Posted December 21, 2016 Author Posted December 21, 2016 This place is decent - they only charged me £95 for the Puma and that included the welding. I have used them before and they are very reasonable. Thinking about it tonight, I have in my head that if it's less than £400 I will get it done, much more and I'll give it some thought, but it's a decent steer.
AMC Rebel Posted December 21, 2016 Author Posted December 21, 2016 Where had it failed then on the corrosion? I'm only going on where they usually fail. I haven't looked - I only have what's on the fail sheet, but it's the rear sills on both sides I think nearside rear outer Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded (5.2.6)offside rear outer Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded sill (5.2.6)
AMC Rebel Posted December 22, 2016 Author Posted December 22, 2016 Not wanting to teach my grandma to suck eggs or owt. But I've found with fails like this, that suggesting to the garage that if it could end up with 12 months ticket for say £200 or whatever, I'll do it ,otherwise I'll scrap it, usually results in a satisfactory outcome for all involved. The welding costs them nothing but time , so depends how much they've got on this week.This place doesn't do their own MOTs so in a sense have no axe to grind. They are pretty fair, though.
AMC Rebel Posted December 23, 2016 Author Posted December 23, 2016 They did the quote today while I was out and dropped the car back off - Welding £250 (good)Drop links £85 less good - but I can do them.Brake pipes - £278.50 - bugger! All plus VAT so making a total of 733.80. I could get the bill down a bit by doing the brake pipes myself but I only have a couple of spare days over Christmas and I am chokka in January and it needs to be done by mid Jan when the MOT expries really. On the whole, a trip to the bridge is looking more likely, even though I have bought an alternator and rear brake shoes for it. I will ponder over Christmas though, no immediate rush.
Bren Posted December 23, 2016 Posted December 23, 2016 The quote for brake pipes tels me they don't want to do them. Not difficult to do yourself. AMC Rebel 1
AMC Rebel Posted December 23, 2016 Author Posted December 23, 2016 The quote for brake pipes tels me they don't want to do them. Not difficult to do yourself.Agreed - except in the freezing cold on the yard at this time of year. I should really get off my fat arse and finish the ZTT - then I could use it, and I'd have space in the garage too. The brake pipes quote includes £250 labour (plus VAT). I am not sure of their labour rate but I suspect it's £100 an hour as they are quoting £50 labour for the drop links (I know I could ask but they have all gone home now).
sierraman Posted December 24, 2016 Posted December 24, 2016 I'd look at another garage. £500 to replace brake pipes is bordering on ridiculous. A garage tackling those type of jobs should be charging no more than £45 an hour NorfolkNWeigh and AMC Rebel 2
BorniteIdentity Posted December 24, 2016 Posted December 24, 2016 I'd look at another garage. £500 to replace brake pipes is bordering on ridiculous. A garage tackling those type of jobs should be charging no more than £45 an hourConcur. Also see if you can find somewhere half respected that's not vat registered. That's an instant saving of a good amount of dollar. AMC Rebel 1
AMC Rebel Posted December 24, 2016 Author Posted December 24, 2016 Agreed chaps although on a point of order, it's not £500 to do the pipes, it's 333.00 (ish)
AMC Rebel Posted December 26, 2016 Author Posted December 26, 2016 Got chance to take more of a look today.
AMC Rebel Posted December 26, 2016 Author Posted December 26, 2016 I've certainly driven a lot worse.
sierraman Posted December 26, 2016 Posted December 26, 2016 As I thought, end of sills. It's been plated before on drivers side at a guess 4-5 years ago. Not a bad job to repair if you can weld that, I'd reckon on £30-40 a side to put that right at a decent garage that does jobs like this.
AMC Rebel Posted December 26, 2016 Author Posted December 26, 2016 The welding doesn't look too bad - I have a welder, but I wouldn't attempt this as I can't be sure I'd be up to MOT standard (or indeed safe). I have a brake pipe flaring tool, too, but I just remembered the die broke last time I tried using it on a steel pipe (on the AMC) so I will probably get another (any excuse to buy tools). I have ordered the front drop links so I guess that means I'm going to do this and keep it going for another year at least. On the upside, the bit of pipe the MOT guy has failed it on is the straight piece that runs up to a (non factory) joint where replacement pipe has already been fitted. I can't see the point in running a new pipe all the way up into the engine bay and to the master cylinder so I plan to make another joint somewhere near the front and just replace the straight pipe on the underside. On the downside I didn't remember what was on the fail sheet when I went out earlier, so not sure about the other front and rear bits - but none of it should be that bad. egg 1
theorganist Posted December 27, 2016 Posted December 27, 2016 I'd look at another garage. £500 to replace brake pipes is bordering on ridiculous. A garage tackling those type of jobs should be charging no more than £45 an hour I think it cost me about £80 to have some made up and fitted on my Princess, my garage charges £50 per hour. Although as I am a regular often knocks some off.
AMC Rebel Posted January 8, 2017 Author Posted January 8, 2017 Decided to do the easy job first - the droplinks. As always happens with jobs where there are two to do, the first one was a piece of piss, and the second one put up more of a struggle. That was until I realised there are a couple of flats on the inside of the joint where you can use a 16mm OE spanner to stop the joint from turning as you're undoing the 17mm Nylok nut. The new ones have a hex in the end too - but the old ones didn't. Of course the droplinks are actually fine, just the dust covers were completely shot - in the olden days I'd have changed the them - but it seems daft not to do the whole thing - they aren't ruinously expensive. Whist under there I decided to try and size up the brake pipe job.At first glance I thought the MOT man was being a bit harsh, what with his "offside front Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)" - But then I realised he must mean this bit - egg and Magnificent Rustbucket 2
sierraman Posted January 9, 2017 Posted January 9, 2017 Sometimes the centre of the bolt on the droplink has a hex so you can hold it while you twirl the spanner. Sometimes if you've got the gun on it it'll just rattle the nut off, it's the bottom nut that's a swine, sometimes you just end up grinding the nut clean off.
AMC Rebel Posted January 9, 2017 Author Posted January 9, 2017 Sometimes the centre of the bolt on the droplink has a hex so you can hold it while you twirl the spanner.Indeed - hence my comment The new ones have a hex in the end too - but the old ones didn't. I couldn't be bothered getting the compressor out so I didn't use the windy gun - didn't need it really, they weren't that tight. The ratchet spanners I bought a while back from LIDL came in handy though.
sierraman Posted January 9, 2017 Posted January 9, 2017 Last ones I did I took a look at them then went back inside for the grinder. I've tried the cheap links and the Lemforder ones and it's made no difference, it's just a weak part of the design. J4mes 1
egg Posted January 10, 2017 Posted January 10, 2017 This is good work! Probably need to do mine, here's how it looked last year. Possibly original? Bet they'll be fun to undo. Probably won't be me then! HMC 1
AMC Rebel Posted January 10, 2017 Author Posted January 10, 2017 Actually, my drop links were fine, the fail was on the rubber dust covers which had disintegrated. egg 1
AMC Rebel Posted March 4, 2017 Author Posted March 4, 2017 Got the first of the brake pipes done, although it did take me all morning. Short version - inept old git has to make 3 versions of pipe to get one that's going to work. Magnificent Rustbucket, Bren and M'coli 3
AMC Rebel Posted March 4, 2017 Author Posted March 4, 2017 Grrr why is it that no matter how many brake spanners you have, the fittings are always between the sizes you have? I have eleventy million brake spanners, imperial and metric, and yet there are still some that are a duff size. I don't think this job is being helped by the fact that Ford seem to have put the pipes on before fitting the rear subframe either, but onwards and downwards. I am actually having a decent day - the weather is glorious. Magnificent Rustbucket and Tickman 2
AMC Rebel Posted March 5, 2017 Author Posted March 5, 2017 Day 2 weather not glorious. No longer pissing down but not anything like as much fun as yesterday. First job was sorting out the downpipe on the guttering. I have made one more brake pipe, but waiting for a lull in the rain before fitting. By the way, I meant to mention that after several weeks just sitting there, the mondy started up first time. This is where I got to yesterday Three (well six if you count the balls ups) pipes made and fitted. Three to go (plus balls ups). Oh, and did the rear drop link on this side - despite not being failed for that or even advised, the rubbers were totally shot. Will do the other side when I get around there. Since it was raining I went into the garage to do battle with the track rod end on the MG (thanks to all for all the ideas) finally removed the old 'un (which was only buggered due to my hamfistedness in releasing it). I celebrated by fitting the new one from the wrong side, which I noticed whilst doing something else. Now corrected.
AMC Rebel Posted March 6, 2017 Author Posted March 6, 2017 sierraman, Dirk Diggler, paulscavalier and 1 other 4
AMC Rebel Posted March 13, 2017 Author Posted March 13, 2017 4 drop links and six brake pipes done. Booked in tomorrow for welding, MOT ahoy. sierraman, Dirk Diggler, The Moog and 2 others 5
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