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Toyotally Fixerating Bitz 'n Bobs.. A Diary


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Posted

Ah well..... It was coming along nicely... I didn't really mind that the blower fan wouldn't run on LOW - I chugged along on P2 (quiet).

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Oopss... No P2 this morning = P3 (turn up radio)/P4(VTOL) :(

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So its going to be an early Xmas prezzie [to self].

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5minute job, if Utoob is believed.

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SAAB 9k is under the screen scuttle.. 2min/no kneeling!

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Posted

After extensive WebbieMining.... I have unearthed these facts :(

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1. Most 'online' suppliers charge about £45 to £60.

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2. A few 'good used'(... aye!) come about £20

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3. I got one*, brand new by Wed, for £6.99 ;)

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..... How does he do it??

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*of course it isn't for a Toyota >> EXACTLY same plug socket + flat plastic face (file edges to fit!) lol

  • Like 2
Posted

I got the old one out of the trunking, below/behind the glovebox...

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The part is larger than my original so plenty of meat to trim down....

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.... now just need to drill the screwhole in the new one & whack it back inĀ  8)

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Posted

£7 over £50....

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"You do the math!"

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;)

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Posted

Attempted to refit new/modded part but I couldn't get the 'slot in' end to fit.... resorted to A$ measures - fettled with 'extreme prejudice' ;)

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..... straight in/do up screw/ IGN 'On'... & whoosh (in 4 different flavours) :lol:

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Happy man


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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Had a bit of a Heart Attack :shock:Ā moment, up at the ASDA on Whitley Rd, reversing <gingerly> out of the car parking bays.

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I was coaxing ToMMĀ© backwards... not to hit the cars opposite... and whilst keeping a good lookout, I spotted [out the corner of my eye] the Oil Pressure Light flicker ON.

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I finished the shifting and no more lights... I slipped along to an un cluttered spot in the car park and whipped open the bonnet/dip oil = FULL!! Thank Fcuk!!

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NOW >> I must have dipped to ,say, less than 350/400RPM during slurring the clutch with no throttle on (I DONT COOK CLUTCHES!!) and I have no idea if Toyota oil Switches are 'ranged' or Binary. It was sort of glowingish ... presumably some pressure - but not much.

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Am I being a bit anal.....Ā  :oops:

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I notice the lamp goes out straight away when cold/hot (700 idle)Ā  :)

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Posted
Am I being a bit anal.....Ā  :oops:

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I wouldn't worry, if the engine was close to stalling I would have expected various warning lights to flicker.

Posted

I wouldn't worry, if the engine was close to stalling I would have expected various warning lights to flicker.

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.... I need moar tablets....Ā  :mrgreen:

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Cheers!

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TS

Posted

Strange one this.... :(

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I splodged a drip of silicone window spray onto the doorkey to 'de-graunch' the key going into the door lock = 110% improvement .. gudd gudd!

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Did the same to the ign lock & same improvement....

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HOWEVER >>> I now cannot slip the key into the ign and turn to start [easily] :( :(

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Now I have to twist and jiggle the key and be patient until it just releases and no problem ??

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OK... Good advice 'if it ain't..' Point taken ;)

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Anyone any idea how this 'loss of snick in/turnability' has happened?

Absolutely 100% reliable/key in & away since I got her.....

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Bo##okks

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Posted

Anyone any idea how this 'loss of snick in/turnability' has happened?

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Aye - never put shite in locks - you'll gum them up.

Posted

Aye - never put shite in locks - you'll gum them up.

..... recon I'm actually not clearing the tumblers now (like using a wrong key)? *

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*not an issue in mkIII Cortinas

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Posted

Graphite powder is ok isn't it? Sure it was on here I read about using it.

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I used to put dust, from rubbing the end of pencil leads, into our front door Yale... Did wizz it free OK.

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Just thought silicone lube would evaporate and make the bits in the lock slippy... :(

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It is getting better each day, mind... :)

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Having a week hols at Leeds, during the Feb half term.

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Nice leg stretch for ToMM©   :-P

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  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

ANOTHER bastard csk chippie screw in the NSR tyre!! :(

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Making three plugs now in this tyre... Limit of TWO on Z- rated ones.

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... Guy at ATS informs me 'three strikes & you're out!' on plugs :( :(

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Statistically (him being a tyre guy) he reckons NSR is the most frequent 'plugger' on his watch!

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He sagely observed a swap across the back might 'make££sense' lol ;)

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Bit of a leg-stretch on...

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A week break about Leeds :)

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Just finished my 'buffet'@PizzaHut, Centre 27 Birstall.

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Conveniently, just across the M62 from our bash lol

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Rediscovering [since I last worked about here a year ago] every village/huddle of houses is a Fukkinn Crossroads Grr

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Sitting for ages at traffic lights does not detract from having a good time in Snowwy Yuurksheer...

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TS

Posted

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..... Relaxing while we enjoy lunch .....

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*unknown family unaware of my framing*

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  • Like 2
Posted

My new radiator (E9x Corolla auto) is fine... :)

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When I'm tonking along at 70 the water pointer is marginally below the temp logo and when in the city it is central.

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Proving that the stat is working and my big new rad is cooling everything properly.

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As I only drive local I never see this effect, day to day ;)

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  • Like 1
Posted

YaYY... Home once more...

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Steady 80 & not a swerve :)

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.... fuckkin boring, innit :/

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Wood bi aginn

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* needs a damn good wash = crustier than a Walls pork pie!

  • Like 1
Posted

Oof.. A Dry Bush :/

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When I'm turning the wheel lately I get a plastic2plastic squeak. As I have PAS I will let the wheel spin freely as I exit a tight parking space (therefore no twist load from me) and it squeaks exactly the same.

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It seems to be a very exact 'chirp' but, then again, not noticeably repeatable/at a point in a loop :(

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Two screws for the crash pad + 19MM nut will have it off but I need to know if it is a movement/touching cowling noise or coming from the indicator/bush inner assy ??

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*I have tin of Silicone Spray ;)

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TS

Posted

Before you take the wheel off, try spraying some silicon between the rear face of the wheel and the cowling.

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My old MX5 had the exact same problem, I spent ages taking the wheel off and checking everything was working as intended, and when I put it back together the squeak was still there. Silicon spray made it disappear.

Posted

^^ ... can I have you as my dad? ;)

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TS

Posted

OK... 'Bet I can knock all your teeth out with one punch'

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[/Viz] ;)

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  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have discovered my Front and Back Void Engine Mounts are split/knackered...

When I'm cranking/firing up the engine has been 'ka chunta chunta chunta' and heavy vibration has come up the wheel from the bulkhead >> goes away as soon as it fires BUT if I'm creeping along in 1st and its cold the whole engine/tranny will 'hunt' a bit :(

Tootles up to my local MOT mukka, I rev the engine against the handbrake and he gives me the verdict.

However... I discover... these engine mounts (likely other Fabricated ones) have a steel tubed rubber bush pressed in :)

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I have the part number for both and have set Mick's Garage* away to see if they can source some.
They are on the web @14Euro ish but I would rather just get the one hit + boxed & delivered ;)

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*EDIT... No! They cant supply anything for me... :(Ā  However, my M8 in Ireland has a 'breaker' and I have asked if he will sell his old ones. :)

The engine, in ToMM©, is rather like the HC Viva... Totally lost in the engine bay = the engine mounts are in free air and the garage guy says they will wizz off quickly (see less£) Gudd Gudd


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  • Like 2
Posted

Yupp... SAAB 9k owners have been doing top engine dogbones for a long time :)

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Because I don't want the car off the road, diy + setting + refit, I'm going to the garage. However if I score for s/h, from Ireland, then I can slow-blo the job = either with bodge or pressing bushes up at the garage, not holding them up ;)

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Cheers

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Posted

Seems that Blueprint ADT-380166 Corolla will do for the Front Mount (under rad).

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As far as I can establish, the actual 'pressed-in' rubber bush is the same as my Carina II - so if the pressing won't line up then the bush can be swapped.

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What a faff-onĀ  :-P

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... no fun, otherwise!

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TS

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