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My Xantia HDi - Minor Electrical Question!


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Posted

I recently ditched my rig.

 

CB just isnt like it was in the 80's

Posted

The new tyres and the alignment have totally transformed how it drives. I only wish it looked half as good as it drives...

 

I reckon if I can find both bumpers and a left rear door in the right colour, then gave it a good t-cut and a wax, it would look a billionty times better.

Posted

I think I've made a decision with regards to the direction I want to go with this car.

 

It's never going to look 'nice' so... I've ordered some pressed plates for it (the rear plate on it is quite badly water damaged anyway) and I'm going to keep an eye out for some 15" old-school metal wheel trims / hub caps. I may even de-badge the back.

 

Basically, half-arsed rat look!

 

I was thundering about in it earlier today listening to Type O Negative and just thought it worked perfectly. It's a scabby old wallowy thing (almost feels a bit like a big American barge) that makes a racket and I should just stick with that theme.

Posted

Looks almost professional...

 

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No, I don't leave it intact, I take the faceplate into the house when I'm not in the car.

Posted

So scene it's obscene.

 

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post-19977-0-92271000-1465731454_thumb.jpg

 

post-19977-0-13842900-1465731473_thumb.jpg

 

The more I drive this thing, the more I love it. It just feels so evil, grumbling and whistling along back roads while it wallows around but also somehow corners like it's on rails.

  • Like 3
Posted

Small update. The LHM system seems to be freeing up with use. The previous owner left the suspension in the driving position all the time. I always lower it if I'm parking it up for more than a few minutes. It seems to be getting slightly smoother and quicker in operation compared to when I first got it.

 

However, is there anything in the suspension I could grease / lubricate to make sure I'm helping things along, or do I just leave it as it is?

Posted

Dunno about the Xant, but my XM had the rear height control lever thing underneath, roughly level with the rear seat backs. It was quite dry when I first got it, and some liberal plug gassing made it much better. Get'atable with the car in high and your body not underneath and an arm out.

 

That's about the only moving part I could find to grease

Posted

I have some penetrating fluid, and shall have a look underneath at some point. Might not be arsed when I get home from work but will have a look next time I'm actually using the car.

Posted

Small update. The LHM system seems to be freeing up with use. The previous owner left the suspension in the driving position all the time. I always lower it if I'm parking it up for more than a few minutes. It seems to be getting slightly smoother and quicker in operation compared to when I first got it.

 

However, is there anything in the suspension I could grease / lubricate to make sure I'm helping things along, or do I just leave it as it is?

Plenty of citrobics ... get it warmed up and have a decent drive say 20 miles or so then stop and work it theough all height settings for around ten mins

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Posted

The rear height corrector mechs on these were always prone to seizing, well worth checking they're working smoothly. Not sure if you've changed the LHM and cleaned the filters, if not then do so. Petrol and compressed air works well.

Posted

There is a mechanical linkage, which can be greased. Needs care though - make sure the car is propped, because if you move the linkage while the car is raised, it may suddenly not be raised...

  • Like 3
Posted

What did the Xantia advert say, something like, "Even standing still it's moving" - well worth remembering, plenty of snoozing cats were caught out by Citroëns of old.

 

Always axle stands and level ground no matter what the car, I shove the wheel underneath as belt and braces.

  • Like 2
Posted

I like that he sentence about wallowing round but corners like on rails. Mine does that. Seems to defy logic for a large car.

Posted

Yep, you push the height corrector and it'll drop and kill you. Hence why I said just do it with your arm under, will be quicker to whip that out should it move.

 

Otherwise, up on ramps/stands at the back to get under there and properly clean it with a toothbrush and pez, then a proper re-grease.

 

In the XM I would sometimes put it on high, then stand on the brakes and lower it. It didn't move, because the brakes were stopping the system from fully depressurising, but release the pedal and she would drop Fast. Probably a bit do or die, but it free'd up my shocks and stuff a bit the few times I did it! XM went up at the front first though, possibl due to the length the system had at the back.

 

Bleeding the rear brakes is good too, as apaprently the fluid doesn't really move around at the back as there's nowhere for it to go, it's a dead end, so bleed a good 1/2/1l of fluid through each brake bleed point, so it pulls it right down the length of pipes at the back, and the various valves etc. Mine ran brown, then green, then BLACK, then brown then green IIRC when I did it. If you leave a door/window open when you do this, you can hear for the STOP beep and go top it up

 

Then more citrobatics! I'm sure I used as much fuel doing citrobatics than actually driving it sometimes!

Posted

The rear height corrector mechs on these were always prone to seizing, well worth checking they're working smoothly. Not sure if you've changed the LHM and cleaned the filters, if not then do so. Petrol and compressed air works well.

Nope. I need to find out how one does that.

 

There is a mechanical linkage, which can be greased. Needs care though - make sure the car is propped, because if you move the linkage while the car is raised, it may suddenly not be raised...

Erk. That's a bit worrying. I have really annoying axle stands that don't quite fit under when the car is at full height too.

Posted

Yep, you push the height corrector and it'll drop and kill you. Hence why I said just do it with your arm under, will be quicker to whip that out should it move.

 

Otherwise, up on ramps/stands at the back to get under there and properly clean it with a toothbrush and pez, then a proper re-grease.

 

In the XM I would sometimes put it on high, then stand on the brakes and lower it. It didn't move, because the brakes were stopping the system from fully depressurising, but release the pedal and she would drop Fast. Probably a bit do or die, but it free'd up my shocks and stuff a bit the few times I did it! XM went up at the front first though, possibl due to the length the system had at the back.

 

Bleeding the rear brakes is good too, as apaprently the fluid doesn't really move around at the back as there's nowhere for it to go, it's a dead end, so bleed a good 1/2/1l of fluid through each brake bleed point, so it pulls it right down the length of pipes at the back, and the various valves etc. Mine ran brown, then green, then BLACK, then brown then green IIRC when I did it. If you leave a door/window open when you do this, you can hear for the STOP beep and go top it up

 

Then more citrobatics! I'm sure I used as much fuel doing citrobatics than actually driving it sometimes!

Hmm, I could get another litre of LHM and try this at the weekend. Also, ramps! Durr. Of course that would work.

 

Mine actually raises at the back first (smoothly) then the front raises a second after, but in 'steps'

 

When I lower it, the front goes down first, again in 'steps' then the back follows smoothly.

Posted

Sounds the opposite of my XM then, although the Xant is smaller so possibly makes sense!

 

Ramps are ace, cos if you're doing work that doesn't involve suspension, you can raise teh car up when on the ramps! I could near sit up under the XM doing that for exhaust fettling etc!

 

Excersise caution doing that though as I'm sure mine used to roll slightly going up or down

Posted

Excersise caution doing that though as I'm sure mine used to roll slightly going up or down

 

It will do. The rear wheels move back and forth as they go up and down. It's one reason for the front-operating handbrake. Also explains why the back won't drop if you move the lever down with your foot on the brake. Friends used to slam the car, put it on high with a foot on the brake and wait. Then, release the pedal and the back will jump up! I was never brave enough to try that for fear of blowing a pipe...

Posted

Its certainly a 'blow the cobwebs out' job, not something to do regularly!

Posted

I think my plan on Saturday (seeing as I'm going to the parents' farm for my sister's birthday lunch anyway) is to get the back up on ramps and give the height control lever thingy a good going over with a wire brush & penetrating fluid, then copper grease any parts that look like they should move.

 

Then a session of citrobatics. Not sure about doing the whole holding the brakes then popping it thing, though.

Posted

Yep, you push the height corrector and it'll drop and kill you.

Unless you are Stanley Lambchop. ;)

Posted

No, I'd leave the holding the brake thing for now! You can give the pipework a good look over too and see if any of it is moist.

 

Have you had it on a Lexia yet? I went and saw CitroJim from the french car forum when I had the XM, and he hooked his proper old Lexia up and cleared shit loads of codes, which made the sport light work on startup again, then found the broken turbo actuator which I sort of wished he hadn't found as whilst it came on boost much better, it also came on boost much sooner, so my MPG went down, and going up hills it was easier to just floor it up a gear than hold it lower but off the turbo.

 

Keep meaning to get in touch with him again, have a load of bags for his Electrolux Masterlux, and was half wondering wether he could read the ZX electronically for a laugh

Posted

I do not have a Lexia, no.

 

I have a Galetto lead but it just seems to be for flashing a map onto the ECU.

Posted

I doubt it would dance but do think it would melt if left out on a hot day.

Posted

Arty farty photos of shite.

 

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post-19977-0-50441100-1466291389_thumb.jpg

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

I've decided I shall try to restore this to a presentable condition now. I was underneath it on Saturday and it's fucking MINT on the underside. Not a spot of rust anywhere, and the exhaust system is very fresh looking too.

 

Ideally, I need both bumpers (although the front could be salvagable with just a bit of trim, the rear is a priority) and a left-rear door, plus a whole fuckload of t-cut!

 

Also on the lookout for a steering wheel and a driver's seat, but I could always fit parts from other Citroens of a similar age.

 

I think I'd like to do something with the wheels too. Any suggestions for nice wheel trims? I'm thinking something retro looking, or even metal... 15" in size.

 

 

 

My main question is - where could I source these parts from? I've put a wanted thread up on the French Car Forum, but I'm also thinking that surely there must be a Citroen breaker somewhere between Aberdeen and Buckinghamshire that I could swing past on the way to/from shitefest?

 

For those concerned, it's an SX model with purple / blue velour interior, and the paint colour is apparently Mauritius Blue.

Posted

There is a hatch xantia in Albert looms of derby. It isn't blue though. Not 100% sure on set condition as I was looking under bonnet.

Posted

Silver X reg (facelift) petrol Xant in Podders at the moment, but stuff dusnae really seem to hang around in there...

Posted

Silver is not Mauritius Blue, though.

 

There's not much point in getting panels in a different colour and getting them repainted, as the left rear door would just need repainted anyway. I'm basically seeing if I can get panels for less than the cost of repainting and whack them on.

 

The easier option at the moment is to keep it looking like a shed then surprise people on back roads with it. :D

  • Like 1

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