Franken-goona

[Guest Hooli]

Remember the zombie goona that needed brains?

 

 

Well I filled this hole..

 

 

With these...

 

 

Plus some here...

 

 

And like a resurrected turd this now happens...

 

 

As you can see the 'kit' that arrived is from an Espace (didn't even know they did these in petrol!) so it now has an identity crisis, plus the buttons for locking & unlocking the car don't work.

 

So having two keycards to hand that don't work I did the obvious...

 

They look like this inside...

 

Phase 1...

 

 

Phase 2...

 

 

The 'new' Espace card is a phase 2, which is good as they are a lot easier to open. I'm going to sod about learning how to swap the switches etc over on the old cards then fix my new one with two donors to steal parts from.

[cort16]

Hardcore

[Guest Hooli]

It filled a couple of hours...

 

Could have done it sooner if parcel farce had bothered to drop a card or even try to deliver to the correct house as we were in when they claimed to leave a card.

[Dave_Q]

GR12 Goonage, does it actually go? The picture just shows ignition on unless the rev counter has done a Renault.

 

Does yours have the talking computer? If so does it mumble in a confused fashion about what happened to it's 3rd row of seats etc?

[UltraWomble]

Has nobody hardwired these buggers yet with a couple of toggle switches on the dash instead of these cards?

[Guest Hooli]

GR12 Goonage, does it actually go? The picture just shows ignition on unless the rev counter has done a Renault.

 

Does yours have the talking computer? If so does it mumble in a confused fashion about what happened to it's 3rd row of seats etc?

 

The battery was too flat after being parked for a month, but yes it goes. I've driven it twice since then, it even got me to work today. Before the brain surgery all I got was the immobiliser light going solid instead of flashing, no other dash lights at all.

 

Thankfully mine doesn't talk, if it did I think I'd have smashed the speaker by now.

[Kiltox]

One of the cards for my Scenic says "Clio" on it

[Guest Hooli]

One of the cards for my Scenic says "Clio" on it

 

I'm debating putting the working card in the Laguna case when I fix it, or not.

[Guest Hooli]

Actually can these cards be recoded to a different car? I've not looked into that.

[SiC]

I was just wondering how you were getting on with this. Glad to hear it all works fine again.

 

Just keep those drainage holes clean! I really must check mine tbh...

 

Did you try just the fusebox part of the UCH? I guess you probably just wanted to get it all working first though tbh!

 

You can get new compatible keycases cheap off eBay if you want to replace them.

[SiC]

Actually can these cards be recoded to a different car? I've not looked into that.

Not easily, the black chip will need replacing to do that. Given that you can get compatible keys off eBay cheap, its really probably not worth it. Still need a Renault CAN CLIP or aftermarket key coding tool to program it in.

[Guest Hooli]

 

Did you try just the fusebox part of the UCH? I guess you probably just wanted to get it all working first though tbh!

 

 

Just threw it all in to get it sorted TBH.

 

Cheers for all the info etc you gave.

[Guest Hooli]

Right then shite fans. It's now decided that once warm it'll cut out everytime you lift off unless the revs drop very slowly. In the good old days I'd tweak the idle screw & that'd be it. Apart from smoothering the throttle body in carb cleaner any ideas?

[twosmoke300]

Vac leak i reckon

[Guest Hooli]

Hmm, makes sense. I'll have to have a look, only thing I can think of is the brake servo pipe off the top of my head.

[jonny69]

Excellent Frankensteinage. I love the fact that it's kind of woken up correctly but lit you some random lights for good measure that you're going to have to stab out with a soldering iron. Your car is going to be like a Renault Robocop.

[SiC]

No EGR on these afaik either.

 

First hunch would be a dirty+sticky throttle body. Plausable, given your description, that its sticking.

 

According to the docs, these (unlike say VAG) don't require their throttle positions reprogramming manually. When you switch the ignition on, "the throttle unit should go through a cycle of programming for its minimum and maximum positions". I like that Renault use the word "should".

 

I believe if you turn the ignition on without starting (i.e. put the card in the slot), wait 30 seconds or so, it should automatically do it. Probably won't hurt either at this point (with the engine off) to put your foot to the floor and release it to cycle the TB.

 

Renault say on the TB, that "Modification of the position of the stop screw is forbidden". So I guess its probably calibrated & step-up in the factory.

 

Vac leak also possible, iirc the inlet manifold seal can break down over time on these too. Get some good ol' spray around it. However I'd thought that would also show some issues when the engine is cold too?

[mouseflakes]

[Daniel R25]

I am surprised that you able to wake up the electronics with Espace bits...

However, the espace was only available with the 2L / 140 HP. You have the 1.8 /120 HP. I'd suppose that could cause problems...

Daniel

[egg]

Feels you are going way beyond normal autoshite duty here into a whole other dimension.Wow. 

 

According to Howmanyleft the Lagunas as a whole (what is the collective noun?) are declining at 3-4,000 a quarter on a current population of 63k. 9,000 are SORN'd!

[mouseflakes]

 Lagunas ... (what is the collective noun?) 

 

A Lagoon

[SiC]

... Lagunas as a whole (what is the collective noun?) ...

Scrapyard.

 

 

(I think that jokes been used before)

[Guest Hooli]

I am surprised that you able to wake up the electronics with Espace bits...

 

However, the espace was only available with the 2L / 140 HP. You have the 1.8 /120 HP. I'd suppose that could cause problems...

 

Daniel

 

It's possible the kit comes from a goona but had a 2nd hand key cover fitted in the past.

The bits are correct for the 1.8 16v, I checked all the part numbers on the ECUs etc

 

Sticky throttle body sounds a go-er too SiC. Even before all this it dropped rather low on idle as you stopped for a second or two, which loads of TB cleaner up it's hole helped. Guess I might have to pop the TB off & clean it properly, that fixed a similar issue when I had a XJ40.

 

The hot/cold thing got me too, I guess it's a small leak/not that sticky so only affects it when the throttle is that little bit more closed. Guess it could be a build up of sticky crud in front of the flap ruining the airflow at idle throttle? We'll see.

[Guest Hooli]

Feels you are going way beyond normal autoshite duty here into a whole other dimension.Wow. 

 

According to Howmanyleft the Lagunas as a whole (what is the collective noun?) are declining at 3-4,000 a quarter on a current population of 63k. 9,000 are SORN'd!

 

I'd say a fleet of lagoonas is a 'hopeless optimism'.

[SiC]

It's possible the kit comes from a goona but had a 2nd hand key cover fitted in the past.

The bits are correct for the 1.8 16v, I checked all the part numbers on the ECUs etc

 

Sticky throttle body sounds a go-er too SiC. Even before all this it dropped rather low on idle as you stopped for a second or two, which loads of TB cleaner up it's hole helped. Guess I might have to pop the TB off & clean it properly, that fixed a similar issue when I had a XJ40.

 

The hot/cold thing got me too, I guess it's a small leak/not that sticky so only affects it when the throttle is that little bit more closed. Guess it could be a build up of sticky crud in front of the flap ruining the airflow at idle throttle? We'll see.

When cold, the throttle body should be cracked slightly more open to keep the revs higher (i.e. electronic auto-choke). It may only be dirty and sticky when the butterfly flap is almost closed. Also may have some deposits around the edge of it, so when it closes the flap, it's actually pretty sealed and chokes off the engine.

[Guest Hooli]

Thinking about this a bit.

 

When I first powered up the car with the new brains the battery was damn flat, took about 15amps off the charger to start with. As I've never left it 'on' but not running since then I guess the low voltage could have given false readings when the new ECU calibrated the TB.

[Guest Hooli]

When cold, the throttle body should be cracked slightly more open to keep the revs higher (i.e. electronic auto-choke). It may only be dirty and sticky when the butterfly flap is almost closed. Also may have some deposits around the edge of it, so when it closes the flap, it's actually pretty sealed and chokes off the engine.

 

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say in a much worse way.

[Guest Hooli]

Well you'll be glad to know the easy option of leaving it for 30secs before starting didn't help...

 

Might order some gaskets soon, but nearly got used to getting down to walking speed & letting the clutch up in first to push the revs back up just before it stalls now.

[Guest Hooli]

Update - Ordered the gasket to clean the throttle body, by waiting till monday it's £1.98 not £3.74. Can't overspend on this shitter after all.

 

Had a fiddle with the keycards today, I failed totally to reattach surface mount switches on the old cards so I opened the new one anyway...

 

A collection of broken things...

 

 

Found the battery connection had snapped on the new card & being a phase 2 keycard the battery holder is glued into the body of the card...

...if you look closely the broken connector is on the left.

 

 

So I removed the board from the old phase 2 keycard & put this new one in. Tested it, glued it together & look what I have....

 

 

A working keycard with the right model of car on it!

Not bad for an hour or so of sodding about I thought. It was getting rather annoying having to open the passenger door & lean in to lock/unlock the damn thing.

[SiC]

Do you actually really need to replace the gasket? I know Renault (and other manufacturers) say so, but I've never done so when I've cleaned them out. Of course if the gasket comes off damaged, then I would.