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Reliant Rialto


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Posted

I have read now that the top nut is captive  :-o Good old haynes manual. I have the top hats on my mounts, how do i get them off one the bottom nuts off. 

Posted

if your lucky you can use pipe grips on the hat and it will turn with the mount and unscrew.if not you will find the rubber falls off the metal stud plate that its bonded on and you will have to try and unscrew that.

Posted

Cheers Dan. I think the rubber will fall of but will try again tonight.

Posted

Engine mounts replace. Spark plug gap checked and fitted in head, manifolds on, temp sender in. Head to go back on tonight.

  • Like 3
Posted

Top and bottom are nuts. The mount is made up of a stud on a metal plate bonded to a rubber cylinder and another metal plate with a stud bonded to the other end.

 

The difficulty, if the metal has come unstuck is holding the relatively thin plate to stop it turning. The other issue is turning a locking nut. From memory these were originally Binx nuts.

 

Grab rubber bit with mole/vise grips and turn the nut until the rubber shears off the plate. Curse and swear a bit then try to lift edge of flush plate with a cold chisel to bend it up either side and give yourself something new to hold onto.

 

ETA: Next time I'm on the moby I'll read to the actual end of the thread...

Posted

Head back on last night and torqued down. God that takes and age, back hurts today. Next week set tappets, build rest up.

  • Like 2
Posted

I know, i need to take more. I will get one next week before i do anymore, and one of the old engine mounts  :shock:

Posted

I made a note of where all the brackets on the head bolts go on, but stupidly forgot to write one other thing down. Its a wire from the heater matrix, its short and has a O on the end so bolts down. Any ideas where, the manual does not show it/

Posted

ETA: Next time I'm on the moby I'll read to the actual end of the thread...

And if I wake up more I'll remember that the front mounts on a Robin/Kitten onwards are welded onto the bent over feet on the front plate. In defence of my incoherent rambling, most of my spannering was done on Regals and Rebels where spanner was king (and the feet were bolted on separate)

 

Listen to plasticvandan - He's had more cars than I've had hot dinners and has a better memory. ;)

Posted

If its black,and an eyelet,its an earth,usually go on a timing cover stud.

Cheers Dan, sounds like the thing but i have not removed the timing cover, very odd.

Posted

And if I wake up more I'll remember that the front mounts on a Robin/Kitten onwards are welded onto the bent over feet on the front plate. In defence of my incoherent rambling, most of my spannering was done on Regals and Rebels where spanner was king (and the feet were bolted on separate)

 

Listen to plasticvandan - He's had more cars than I've had hot dinners and has a better memory. ;)

No worries, appreciate all your help, Finger still sore from trying to remove the top nut  :shock:  :?  :mrgreen:. Glad i gave up in the end  :-D

Posted

Kitten is different,has a nut on the top and the bottom thread screws into the chassis.just thought I would throw that in there

  • Like 1
Posted

Got a good bit more done last night. Forgot drip try on the carb so will add that on tonight. Tappets all set, sparkplugs to go in then oil and water then the big start up  :shock: Wish me luck.

Posted

Sorry the lack of photos. My school reports always said " could do better"  :-D

 

Got the drip tray added on the carb, broke spark plug and had a mini coolant leak so all good  :mrgreen:

 

Had to use one of the old plugs in the meantime. 

 

I got it started but it was half ten and was revving its head off so had to stop it and will go back Monday eve.

 

I think i may have connected the choke to the carb incorrectly, There is a funny screw and nut thing that clamps the cable and i think its in the wrong place. Haynes manual as much use as a ash tray on a motorbike. Anyone happen to have a picture of how it should look.

 

Also i had the mixture / idle set spot on before, i take it after a rebuild it will all need set again? This could also be the reason for the high revving.

  • Like 2
Posted

" Haynes manual as much use as a ash tray on a motorbike" and thats the most important lesson you will learn on this job .

  • Like 4
Posted

Having a think and i may* have found the issue with the carb choke screw. Think i used the one from the heater in error. Also looking at the set up of the SU seems the spring may be wrong too.

Posted

there is no spring on the choke....

If i'm building it there is  :-D

Got photos of how it should look so will sort it out on soon.

  • Like 1
Posted

Carb sorted out, got it ran up to temp last night. Heater valve sprung a leak so some fun was had  :mrgreen: All fixed now.

 

Still idles a bit high and seems to run on for a sec when the ignition is switched off so guess i still need to fiddle with the mixture once i check the head bolts again tonight.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks, been hard work but enjoying it. Still a good bit to do.

Have you sold your apple green Rialto yet?

Posted

being picked up thursday night all things going well.

 

then i can get cracking with the green ranger :-)

Posted

Thanks Dan. Will take a look at that. Need to adjust the mixture as the plugs are black, Getting there now.

Posted

Did a bit last night but did'nt feel i got anywhere. Back up tonight yo try and get the carb set up and running correctly.

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