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Meriva A (Z16XE) Cambelt change success!


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Posted

I've used Forte engine flush before to successfully long term cure a sticking lifter, but if that's not your problem it'll be of little help...

Posted

Does it just tap on start up? If so not really a biggie.

 

Also oil wise am pretty sure all vauxhalls of this vintage would run on 5w-30, you can get gm oil cheap from eBay.

Posted

Yep, just on startup, and only when left for over 4-5 hours. It seems that the oil drains out of the top of the engine, then takes a bit of revs to push it all back in again, then it's fine, stop/start driving is fine too.

 

I'll try and film it, see if it picks it up! I think it has 5w30 in it now, but has had other grades in it before, when it would piss out of the sump/block join as fast as it was poured in...

 

It still drives fine*

Posted

I have used a tappet quietener before,dont know who made it,but it did work

Posted

Doesn't sound like something to panic about (sorry about the pun).

 

I have a scrap X14XE head.  That was quiet.  If you can identify which one is making the noise, I could post you a few tappets for beer money (if they are the same - if someone can tell us).  It would make sense to do at the same time as the cambelt.

 

By the way, nightmares about exhaust studs - can't see why you need to go near them........

Posted

The exhaust studs are fine, had them off before! They have been in coppaslip for the past few years so should be fine now

Posted

Have you done it yet ? I'm gonna come round and lick your eyeballs til it's done

  • Like 2
Posted

One slightly more constructive thing is , if the tensioner wheel has a torx bolt then it's really shallow headed . Make 100 percent sure you have the right size ( 40 or 45 iirc ) . I usually use a t bar and a flat sided lever against the chassis rail to hold it right into the head of it . Hope that makes sense

  • Like 2
Posted

I ought to have a different hobby.

 

We all ought to, cars are terrible things in just about every way if you think about it.

Posted

One slightly more constructive thing is , if the tensioner wheel has a torx bolt then it's really shallow headed . Make 100 percent sure you have the right size ( 40 or 45 iirc ) . I usually use a t bar and a flat sided lever against the chassis rail to hold it right into the head of it . Hope that makes sense

i bought a set of torx bits and sockets specifically for the car, so hopefully one will fit. Ive read scare stories about that too!

Posted

Good luck Beko!!!! I've done one of these before and it wasnt too bad TBH, in fact it was pretty straightforward. I think you'll be alright. The only thing I fucked up was I didnt note the position of the water pump when i took it out. It goes in a round hole and the pulley on it is slightly off centre (eccentric) so the orientation of it is important to get the cambelt tension set later on. Just note how its positioned in the block befor you take it out so you can put the new one in the same way. Good luck!!! I also think your noisy tappet is nowt to worry about.

Posted

If that tensioner bolt is a pain, just grind the head off.  The tensioner will then drop off and the bolt comes out real easy with a Stillsons (monkey wrench) if necessary.  Normally  a new bolt in the kit but a normal M8 with a proper 13mm hex head turned or ground down is a better bet.

Posted

Should be piss easy now mate, all the parts, tools and knowledge you will ever need!

Posted

upload_-1.jpg

 

I now own a torque wrench (and need to learn how to use it now!), and a cambelt kit where the metal bearings are made in canada and the palstic tensioners are made in france...

 

WCPGW...

Posted

Never done a timing belt before, my mate did and i see a massive problem in what you have bought......

 

 

 

It HAS to be Walkers crisps or the whole lot will go wrong :)

 

Good luck with this, way above my skill level, hope it all goes to plan.

Posted

Compared to what you do with the vacuum cleaners I think this will be a piece of cake.

Posted

That's the angle I'm going for, if it step by step comes apart/off, it should step by step go back together! Only problem is, if it doesn't/ goes wrong I've broken a car rather than a £5 hoover...

 

If it's not pissing down on saturday hopefully we will find out!

Posted

for what it's worth, I've got to replace the flexi exhaust on my MG. I will be doing the job over a weekend, and will need it to get to work on the following Monday morning. So i'm planning on having all the bits to do the job, plus a few bits to rectify the (assumed) breakages during the job (stuff like sheared bolts, in my case) and add a few spare hours into the process to be on the safe side. Take your time, be methodical, and try not to pressurise yourself. It will be a doddle.

 

I would mug those crisps off though. Frazzles are what you want for a cambelt change, any fule kno dat

Posted

The crisps were lovely, like round, crunchier quavers!

 

Was the last packet though, so back to Seabrooks tomorrow! Will get a pack of Brannigans in for the cambelt change, their proper crisps (the mustard ones are fucking strong, which is lovely!)

  • Like 2
Posted

Fair enough, radio silence until work commences from me on this thread

 

possibly...

Posted

And you aren't allowed to congratulate yourself on a job well done until the car has done the complete 60k or whatever the interval is !

Posted

40 according to the Internet. Which is worrying since Im assuming its on 82k on the original shiz...

Posted

40 according to the Internet. Which is worrying since Im assuming its on 82k on the original shiz...

shhh!

Posted

Going well so far. After an hour of undoing and removing stuff, I can see the cambelt.

 

Having a rolly and cuppa, then its time to time it up!

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