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Purple Petrol Eater - Massive Merc Collection


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Posted

I do like it, but can't help thinking the instruments look very similar to a Sprinter of the same era. You'd feel a little short changed if you'd bought one new!

 

mercedes_benz__sprinter_208_cdi_panel_va

Posted

It's not far off is it just more leather and fake wood inside. I've had bmw's and audis of similar years and they're nicer inside for sure. They didn't air condition your arse though.

Posted

Come on how much was it?

Probably about the price of a main dealer service!

I saw it and would have been sniffing had I not been recovering from last Ebay car.

Posted

That is ace, I would love one. My bleeding st170 is managing 27mpg on my commute luckily it ain't a long one but I would still rather look like coolio than that kevin and Perry chap that Harry Enfield used to do in my hot(slightly tepid) hatch.

27 mpg isn't bad for an ST170. Mine gets closer to 22 mpg when commuting!

Posted

It's had a bluefin Re Map apparently and the bloke I got it off said it improved mpg drastically. I just nodded and thought yeah yeah yeah.

Posted

I took some pictures of this today after washing it. There's a dent in the rear quarter and one of the boot hinges seems out of alignment but it's pretty good given it's age and mileage. 

There's some weird thing going on with the lights as one of the number plate lights won't come on and when I put new bulbs in the one that worked stopped working and the one that wasn't working now is! Also I've got a double speed flashing indicator and and an alert on the dash saying an indicator bulb is out when they're all flashing. Ive cleaned the contacts on the number plate lights but I recon I might go around and pull all the bulbs and clean the contacts to see what happens. Not entirely unexpected in a merc of this generation that would give a Laguna II a run for it's money in the integrity of it's electrical systems.

 

15914833955_b5f7372283_c.jpgIMG_1814 by cort16, on Flickr

 

15914839405_879e6b3f44_c.jpgIMG_1812 by cort16, on Flickr

 

The dent. There seems like plenty access behind it so hopefully it'll knock out. I don't really fancy painting it to fix it.

 

15295179983_0d22f5c7ae_c.jpgIMG_1816 by cort16, on Flickr

 

Weird boot alignment thats worse on this side. It works fine as does the auto close mech. 

 

15727536090_867a794a91_c.jpgIMG_1815 by cort16, on Flickr

 

When you're driving it and you put your foot down it's fast and smooth but there seems to be abit of hesitation then WOOF off like a cat with wasabi rubbed on it's arse. There's something not right there and when the EML comes on its defo more consistent as it's rapid all the time. The problem is it only comes on now and again and it'll need to be on for the code to be red. Ho hum. Also in all it's still pretty awesome.

Posted

Could the odd bulb scenario be one that has the wrong or differing connections on the bottom, i.e has one blob of solder instead of two, or vice versa?

 

That is a SRSLY fit car alright. 

Posted

I really don't know what the hell is going on with it. The bulb goes into a carrier in the light housing then pushes into the light housing. The connectors looked pretty fugged up but I cleaned them up well.

Posted

Think as a rule most Mercs are only available as a manual if a 4 cylinder. Prob some exceptions, though.

I think the lights get freaked out by LED bulbs if it didn't have them from the factory.

Posted

They didn't do performance mercs with manual boxes probably because they're pish at them.

Posted

number plate light bother might be kancked wire from body to boot like pugs/cit/other driver door wiring where it flexes each time opened?

 

I imagine that has seen quite a few bodies/briefcases (two types of owner?) loaded in it's life so worth a look if a good clean of connections doesn't work

Posted

It's seems there's a system call sam that controls all this stuff and this sort of thing can be a sign it's on it's way out. It's what let's I report bulbs being out etc back to the dash. It's like hal but more arsey.

Posted

Maybe it's done a Sam Fox and gone tits up? At least it'll be ok in central London if so, as it'll be LEZ COMPLIANT now.

Posted

Maybe a diagnostic plug in session would show up any issues (if you're up to it - I know I'd rather live in ignorance !).

  • Like 2
Posted

Are the indicators in the mirrors flashing? If one of them isn't it usually means a broken wire in the union where the electric-folding mirror hinges. If this goes it usually means a new mirror frame. That has been known to upset the other indicators.

 

Very, very good looking car, though, and mechanically, if not electrically, bombproof. Twin-spark engine if memory serves, so sixteen plugs to change. Does the rear sunblind work? If not that will take one cubic yard of used notes to put right.

Posted

I thought that about the mirrors but they all seem to be flashing. When you go into reverse it dips the mirrors so a bad connection could be likely.

 

Wow 16 spark plugs. I bet it's those platinum ones too so that'll be 80 quid in spark plugs!

Posted

I thought that about the mirrors but they all seem to be flashing. When you go into reverse it dips the mirrors so a bad connection could be likely.

 

Wow 16 spark plugs. I bet it's those platinum ones too so that'll be 80 quid in spark plugs!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've been nobbing around with this a bit today.  I managed to knock the dent in the quarter out a bit and spent and age trying to get the boot to sit flush at the back.

There's multiple ways to adjust it none of which seemed to make a lot of difference. The passenger side looks fine now but the drivers side is still sitting up a bit. It's better but still not right. My initial thought was it maybe had a malfunctioning auto close system but it's just normal springy springs and none of that fancyness. At one point in time it crossed my mind how easy it would be to knock 3mm out the hinges with the grinder and weld them back up but knowing my luck the hinge brackets would be made out of flatoosiumalloy or something and the entire mechanism would melt with a single blast from the mig. Also it's a stupid idea.

 

Still no joy with the number plate light bulbs I can only get one of the bastards to work at anyone time. The screws holding inner boot cover on are rusted and totally stuck in place. I recon I'll need to drill them out but I wasn't into getting into that today.

 

After all this I headed up to Aldi to buy some shortbread cupasoups and a tin of reindeer streaks and when I gave it some welly it was quickish but not rapid for having my foot on the floor. Then WHAMMO, it's like the taps had opened full and it lit the wheels up at about 65 giving a wiggle and making me let our a girly squeal. I've noticed at full throttle it'll get to about 4000rpm and it's quick then something changes and it's like v-tec turbo on nitrous just kicked in at once and it takes of. It's brutal though. I've had a quick google and the most likely suspect is the throttle position sensor. It's 110 quid though so don't want to just get it without getting the codes read. Problem is there's no EML on although it did come on when I picked it up.

 

Still all in all it's pretty awesome. It's very easy to drive but the ABC suspension (active body control) which I don't think isn't that different from the Xantia Activa) makes it corner really nicely. 

It's going to have to go though it's just too big. It not being able to fit in my lockup is a major pain in the arse as it's hogging my drive.

Posted

Cort, that two stage power delivery you talk if seems to be a Merc thing, the 124 even though its only got the 3.2 24volt engine performs as you describe.

 

On say 2/3rd throttle it accelerates briskly and constantly until it reaches about 80, then without altering where your foot is its like another smaller engine has fired up and pushes you straight in the back....maybe its a German thing, my 80's MAN F90 lorry was like that, normal power up to 80 then all the banshees of hell turned up and away she went.

 

On kickdown however its full bore all the way and surprisingly quick for an old relatively small engine, the 124's seem sensitive to kickdown cable (doubt your is cable mind) adjustment, my kickdown cable snapped at the joint and for about 5 years was reconnected by me via a large chocolate block electrical connector, trouble is the gearbox has to come out to fit one so that waited till earlier this year when the gearbox was took out.

Posted

Even on kick down I'm not getting the full plate of beans. Also sometimes I get the power then it goes off again.

This is all fly by wire bollocks though, which makes the throttle position sensor look like a likely candidate .

Posted

 

It's going to have to go though it's just too big.

 

 

*Watches with skinterest.

Posted

My 320 behaves like that, it's brisk up to about 3500 rpm, then it's seems to think--" oh, your foot's still there? Well ok then, how's this for acceleration" and suddenly it's doing 6000rpm. Partly due to the 24v I think. I've only activated the kick down button once-then thought, well I don't need to do that again!

Posted

Are the V8's 32 valve? My 2000 3.2 V6 was 18 valve with variable length intakes. I don't know anything about that even after 202,000 miles.

Posted

Those 5.0 V8s normally pick up rather well. Don't go at the boot hinges with anything like a grinder - there will be a way of adjustment.

 

Indicator issue could well be mismatched bulbs, if you've replaced one side and not the other the computer will be getting strange resistance readings. Jags do the same thing.

 

Suspension is different from Xantia Activa set up. Much more clever. Much more expensive, a grand a corner for an ABC strut.

 

When you decide to get shut, gimme a shout. :)

Posted

It looks like it's SOHC 3 valves per cylinder. Not sure how that pans out.

 

From wikipedia.

 

M113s have aluminum engine blocks and aluminum SOHC cylinder heads with two spark plugs per cylinder. The cylinders are lined with silicon/aluminum, and the heads have 3 valves per cylinder. Other features include SFI fuel injection, fracture-split forged steel connecting rods, a one-piece cast camshaft, and a magnesium intake manifold.

Posted

The grinder was just a passing thought I'd not actually do it (probably).

 

I thought I replaced both bulbs at the same time put it's not impossible the old one back in while I was pissing around,. Defo something to check, good tip!

 

When it's at full chat it's VERY fast.

Posted

The V6 is a very durable engine and as it is closely related to the V8 that should be too. Any problems most likely older car stuff, 15 year old intake trunking etc.

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