I'm not surprised so many vehicles get scrapped for welding

[forddeliveryboy]

Most go for the cheapest, or almost the cheapest quote. Many welders may assume the car will be scrapped within 3 years, too. Decent welding, to standards which are safe in a crash and which retain the torsional characteristics of the shell/chassis - and which will still be good in another ten years are prices which few want to pay.

 

Expecting full and proper corrosion protection - not just a blast from the schutz gun on the underside - isn't something which many newly-welded section receive. I agree with Cort16 - for a proper job, the carpet ought to be out.

[Split_Pin]

I remember being the cardboard template maker and interior fireman when I was the workshop laddie!

 

I've been lucky with my car so far as its the first time its been welded so I can usually see what needs welded and guesstimate the price. Been ok so far.

[Asimo]

What about cutting out the rot yourself until the full extant of the job can be seen?

 

If a welder can see good metal and the size/shape of the plates to go back in the hole there must be much less risk for you and for your welder.

 

I spent days (brazing with a carbon rod attachment) repairing my last VW beetle. I have avoided, or got rid of anything rusty ever since.

Rot always feels to me like the point of no return; I know it isn't if you have the skills, time and kit  but I don't.

[af1]

Well the welder turned up! And has been working on it for 2 days. I realise it's a big job! And it's a car I am planning in keeping for a fair few years so I want a decent job! I know with old cars that the jobs can escalate, and hopefully the welder knows that too!

 

Infact a load more holes have turned up!

 

But if a jobs worth doing it's worth doing right!

[Station]

They don't want to do it as welding in general is frigging horrible. I've been to a&zero twice in my entire existence, both relating to welding injuries.

 

I think modern cars have more complex curved panels making it tricky to fabricate metal. And anything older than 10 years is probably slightly more difficult to get pattern parts for, but probably not.

[SambaS]

Get some pictures up! What car is it by the way ?

[Station]

True about rust on the surface is about 20% of what lies beneath. Have a look at these for proof:

 

I took these just to demonstrate:

 

 

 

About 20 minutes later:

 

 

 

The round bolt hole on both sides are the rear belt anchorages - both have completely gone, leaving this:

 

 

As long as you can get a welder in there, I don't think it's difficult.

[Dick Cheeseburger]

I can understand your plight. However, I drive a T reg Audi A4 avant as a daily at the moment and it has no rot anywhere. Buy a galvanised car and drive it into the ground! 

[Bren]

Or buy a ka and watch it merge with the ground.

[af1]

I like the car, I have always wanted one.

 

It's done intergalactic miles but I'm

Planning on keeping it for a fair few years so I'm happy to put some money into it!

[SambaS]

Oh come on, what car is it!

[New POD]

  On 28/07/2014 at 11:59, jonny69 said:

Yeah I could never find anyone to do minor welding on my first car. That's why I got a small MIG and learned to do it myself. If you've got the space, the MIG comes in handy all the time

 

 

Me too.  I practiced on the old cavalier, and got it through the MOT, and then PX'd it for something my wife and kids like, but the practise was all so I can do the rear end of the MX5 properly. It should pass another MOT without it, but I'm planning 2 weeks off at the end of this contract, one to decorate the lounge and dinning room, and one to fix the rear of the sills, and fit new second hand wings and spray them, (badly)

[a60rod]

What Bren said and others - totally agree. Used to do it. No more. Someone had a mint Mk 1 Escort but the arches were cracked. Told the man that the cracks were in an arc to the wheel arch as the arches were rivetted on. This was a minty clean car. Yep. 5 mins later both arches fallen off, rivets ground out and fibreglass on fire. Joy.

As for the OPs post, you got curved chassis channel (you can buy channel but not curved so would need to be pie cut and curved and if opened up bits let in) the after removing that you'd need to do something with the floor which is very likely dicky, that will involve possibly removal of petrol tank/interior? 

To do those bits of chassis and the floor would be a days work. 

Easily.

I'd say hour of actual welding all the rest would be prep.

Prep to cut out old metal - petrol tank, interior, brake pipes?

Remaking floor, chassis channel inc drilling ready to plug weld. 

Prepping area to weldd to - that's the thing, finding soemwhere to weld to!!

 

So in summary I can see why the T reg motor was avoided! If you handed them a bill for £300 they'd say keep it!!

[Station]

I repaired the inner arches on my current hack Astra diesel by cutting all the rust out and putting a plate in and tack welded 1 inch apart. I could hit it with a heavy hammer and it'll stick, and will probably last another decade as I 'treated' it properly (weld through primer, zinc primer, seam sealer, stone chip, then satin black paint). Looks much better.

[brickwall]

I can only repeat what has been said. I found a tiny wee hole under the light box that I could just get my pinky through and after cutting back to good metal it's a new panel and a small section of the arch. Always a way bigger job and the prep takes ages if you want the welding to be easier.

[Lukas]

  On 29/07/2014 at 19:23, SambaS said:

Oh come on, what car is it!

 

Has he told us, what car it is by now?

[af1]

Oh lol it's my 306!

 

 

I do want to learn how to weld, I have wanted to learn since I was about 16! Being a shift worker however it's very hard to get on a course

[af1]

Regarding the cost, I didn't anticipate a cost! I'm happy to pay for a good job regardless of what the car is worth As it's a car I will be keeping (I have a lot of love for the 306) I'm not doing it to

Sell, I'm not doing it for a profit either! I know people that have had similar jobs on a 106 and I'm aware of the cost for the work!

 

It's an enthusiasts car despite not being seen as one by many!

 

Also I had been contacting welders and not mechanics. Therefore I was shocked at mr 15 miles away quote for £100 of work.

 

I could have easily booked it in for an mot patch but that's not what I'm after.

 

These cars are pretty rare (obviously a 306 isn't)

Despite that I must say I don't agree that the 306 rallye is a proper rallye. It was just a marketing exercise by Le Peugeot to shift a few Gti-6's at a cheaper price with base model spec!

[SambaS]

Ha, nice car man! Keen to see the finished job too, got a vested interest in welding at the minute.

[Parky]

A 306 Rallye is worth splurging on owing to rarity and pending cla**ic status. And the fact they are excellent wee cars. Not so sure anyone is going to feel the same about a Daewoo Lanos but if they do they are bound to be on here somewhere

[Bren]

Surprised to see even an old pug with that much grot - normally they are very good - has been scraped underneath in the past and left to fester?

[af1]

I think it's been low at some point and had a chance to get scraped

[RichardMoss]

  On 28/07/2014 at 11:59, jonny69 said:

That's why I got a small MIG and learned to do it myself. If you've got the space, the MIG comes in handy all the time

My £110 mig welder has paid for itself many, many times over.