overrun Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Seeing as my dash is out, I want to get the original radio wired in - if it works. Anyone know which pin does what?
Asimo Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 In your pics., the top two sockets are for the speakers, "Din" speaker plugs required. Can't help with the other connectors, frustrating, it would be so easy to tell if it was on the bench. overrun 1
mat_the_cat Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Ha! I was going to say the same. If you can open it up there may be a clue inside...I'd bet the two larger ones would be supply and earth but which way round I don't know. Worth checking for continuity to the case though, if so that's your earth. overrun 1
overrun Posted January 30, 2014 Author Posted January 30, 2014 Thought the top two were speakers.Cheers for the info on the DIN plugs. Bare wires rammed in will suffice for testing. This unit is similar. I assume the wiring should be the same? Earth appears to be the far pin. Good point about testing for continuity, via the case.What's the white, igntion live?
Pillock Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5145 There's a few ideas on there, bury they don't appear to have been tested! At least with earth and 12v sussed, you can test for output voltage on one of the others (electric aerial output) and the other will be switched live? Or should there be an illumination feed from the headlamps? overrun 1
Inspector Morose Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Aw, shit. That's got the brain cells going. It used to be a standard power fitting way back when. From R to L if I remember right should be power - power + ign feed then illumination. Could be something like that. overrun 1
overrun Posted January 30, 2014 Author Posted January 30, 2014 Will check that link, Pillock. Ta. Remote live/elec aerial was definitley a feature on this radio.That almost explains the last pin, until you quite rightly mention illumination...
mat_the_cat Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Might not be an ignition switched AND permanent supply like on modern radios - there's no need for a permanent live to keep the setup in memory! So it may be earth, ignition live, then the other two for illumination and electric aerial output. See if one becomes live when you turn it on? overrun 1
overrun Posted January 30, 2014 Author Posted January 30, 2014 Thanks, FP. mat_ Another good point. No digital memory! I will confirm which is the earth and then put 12v to the one next to it, then will suss the others out with the meter.Easiest way, as you know. I thought it was worth seeing what could be worked out, whilst online, though. Teh Autoshiterz did not disappoint A++++ WOULD POST AGAIN beko1987 1
overrun Posted January 31, 2014 Author Posted January 31, 2014 It works. Plays tapes, too. Far right pin is earth, next is live/illumination. Furthest away is elec aerial.Unsure on the other, as I got nothing on the meter. 9/10 times it switches off when I turn the volume past 2/3. Also only one speaker channel works properly. The other is very faint.Again, I tried to meter them, but my my meter is shit - think it's the connections. I opened it up, to see if I could see anything obvious.Then I got scared and closed the case. What do you reckon might be knackered?
overrun Posted January 31, 2014 Author Posted January 31, 2014 Hand soldering and a total birds nest. I attempted to remove the green, soldered board, to look at the back of the volume knob.No chance, without having it in a million pieces.
Timewaster Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 Does the other side come off too? Rather than just write it off it might be worth a decent squirt of contact cleaner as close as you can get to the volume rotary switch.If not just bung it on eBay. Spindle mount period radios are making serious coin at the moment. overrun 1
Pillock Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 Might be a supply issue. Which pin was the 12v input did you say? It may be that if you've swapped the 12v input with the 12v (leccy aerial) output, it'll still power on as it's hooked up the same rail BUT it won't be able to handle the current to run the whole thing. Think of it like trying to power your whole car by plugging a battery into the fag lighter OR, the volume resistor might be causing it to short out. Is this the type that has a "click" on and then the same knob does the volume? Potentially something has broken down inside and the on-off bit is coming into contact with something as it's turned. If you can't get to the back, you could just squirt contact cleaner down the plastic shaft, give it a jolly good spin backwards and forwards and then let it dry out. Blimey. Shafts and knobs in the same post. overrun 1
overrun Posted January 31, 2014 Author Posted January 31, 2014 To access the back of the volume knob will take a lot of dismantling. I think I will try the contact cleaner, first. Good news about spindle radios. I plan to have a clear out, soon. One thing to list on ebay is a lovely chrome and black Beltek, that was fitted from new to my 1984 360 Volvo. I was thinking supply issue as a possibility, but the battery I used was showing 12.5V and the second pin is definitley the main live.it's a larger terminal, plus the electric aerial pin showed 12V with radio on and dropped to 0V when turned off. It is the power and volume 'click' style, yeah. I will try the contact cleaner and fiddle method, first.
Pillock Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 I used a very similar method on many laptops to fix the touchpad buttons. Douse in contact cleaner, hammer away on them for 2-3 minutes, blow compressed air through to dry out and shift any crud. Works 100% of the time, never let the customer see the method as it's brutal to watch I'd hold the stereo upside down once the cleaner is in when you're wiggling, I reckon the contact cleaner will find it easier to come back out that way instead of just moving the crud to elsewhere in the switch.
overrun Posted January 31, 2014 Author Posted January 31, 2014 Ignorance is bliss, for some. Whatever does the job though, eh? I'll give it a blast (lol). Cheers!
Station Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 Two on the top are speakers (As you know), then you have 12v and ground and the other will be probably be illumination or switched igntion 12v.
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 Wasn't someone on here looking for a RST21P for their Capri a while ago?
overrun Posted January 31, 2014 Author Posted January 31, 2014 This RST21P came with my car and is most probably the one it was supplied with new, as part of the 'Executive Pack' it was ordered with. Quite amazing to still have it after 16 owners and 30 years. For that reason alone, it would be great to have it fully functional.
tooSavvy Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Savvy 'patented' contact cleaner...cough... The Gddr has a PS2 and sometimes, just lately, the cards [stuck into the top & click] have been 'not found' by the device. I have tried a bout of violent 'click in/out/in/out...' and has sorted it for a day or so...... Today, however, it got to be a bit of a lottery which of many might be seen, or not. ...... this is a very small bit of 'worn out' wet&dry rubbing down paper... super fine grit. Stuck onto a cut off of plastic, with dbbl sided foam tape. I just inserted it, grit side to the contacts, and sawed up and down a few times, moving along from one end of the slot to the other. Game 'hit' ratio back up to "Child no longer whining in my ear...." level = WINNAHZ TS Sigmund Fraud 1
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