My land rovers - the '64 SWB's turn

[sutty2006]

Heres Mine and my dads 109 Th'ambulance

 

 

It spends more time in my workshop than it does anywhere near a road.

 

For MOT it failed on 2 brake pipes. So Far its had

 

5x new brake pipes

1x New master cylinder

2x new wheel cylinders

2x new brake drums

 

2 pressure bleeds

and countless amounts of manual bleeding, followed by swearing because the brakes wont bleed up!

 

I'll be scrapping it soon, if it doesnt buck its ideas up!

[brickwall]

Always wanted an ambulance to spend the summer in!

[drum]

The brakes can be fun* to bleed. I assume that ambulance has twin leading shoes on the front. I spent ages on mine until I realised the problem was the rear shoes weren't adjusted properly.

 

Try clamping the rear flexi hose and check the pedal.

[meggersdog]

Really need to get mine back on the road.

Maybe in the next few weeks as at the moment I haven't got any spare cash.

[Pete-M]

I do quite fancy one of those 90 V8 Auto jobs they did for the 50th birthday.

 

Suspect they're rather expensive. So if I ever get a Defender it'll be the poshest 110 V8 I can find. Preferably auto.

[oman5]

I didn't "get" the whole LR thing until I drove one off road. needless to say I was gobsmacked at how capable they are. I would LOVE one.

[Minimad5]

This thread has really pushed my desire for a Series III. 
Not too sure if i want a Diesel or petrol yet ...
keep the pictures and stories coming !

[scruff]

I had a V8 110 with a tweaked 3.9 Efi, loved it, would proper love a 50th but as you say they hold their money.

[sutty2006]

The brakes can be fun* to bleed. I assume that ambulance has twin leading shoes on the front. I spent ages on mine until I realised the problem was the rear shoes weren't adjusted properly.

 

Try clamping the rear flexi hose and check the pedal.

 

 

yes it has twin leading shoes (11inch drums). Ive been told to clamp the front cylinders shut and bleed it that way. If that doesnt work then ive no idea. It'll be sold as spares or repairs. Ive no time or patence for it anymore

[drum]

Is it a spongy pedal or does it need pumped? If the first press of the pedal goes to the floor I would suspect adjustment rather than bleeding. Clamp hoses to isolate the problem.

 

If it's the front that's troublesome, some people have re-plumbed the pipe work so that the bleed nipple is at the top. I'll find a picture if you want.

 

It's a simple system but I know how frustrating it can be. Get someone else to have a go before you get totally pissed off and scrap the thing.

[jakebullet]

I have 109 spec brakes on the front of my 88 in the vain hope of stopping. I was given the top tip of pump up until you get an ok feeling pedal then wedge the pedal down with a block of wood for a day or two. It did appear to work, and I'll get to try it again one day cos the brake line had an angry grinder accident while plating the chassis.

[sutty2006]

Is it a spongy pedal or does it need pumped? If the first press of the pedal goes to the floor I would suspect adjustment rather than bleeding. Clamp hoses to isolate the problem.

 

If it's the front that's troublesome, some people have re-plumbed the pipe work so that the bleed nipple is at the top. I'll find a picture if you want.

 

It's a simple system but I know how frustrating it can be. Get someone else to have a go before you get totally pissed off and scrap the thing.

 

First pump goes to the floor, then second is rock hard. Leave pressure on....and the pedal doesnt creep. Release brake and wait a second or two and its back to square one.

 

All the brakes have been adjusted. Its a silly Idea having the bleed nipple at the bottom

 

I suppose all I need to do is join the flex to the bottom cylinder, then put the nipple at the top... It could work. or a can of petrol and a lighter...

[drum]

Albert Ross will know better than me but IME that first press is taking up the slack on the shoes. The shoes are handed and it's easy to get things wrong. I had a shoe peg missing the clam adjuster completely.

 

Air in the system usually means a spongy pedal.

 

Hopefully the owner of these pics won't mind me sharing.

[sutty2006]

I only changed the two pipes from Master cylinder to bias valve..... and ive had the issue ever since.

 

I might just change the brake pipes to support a nipple at the top.

 

Watch this space.

[drum]

Thanks to help on the stupid question thread, I got the petrol 2.25 series 2a fired up. I bought it a couple if years ago mainly because the chassis and bulkhead were solid. The engine had been plonked in and the previous owner had no idea of its provenance. No wiring loom, no pedals, no fuel tank, an assortment of body panels held on by cable ties and a few bits missing from the engine

 

 

 

The engine was dry of oil and I probably should have taken the head off for a look, but I wouldn't have had much idea what I was looking at so only got as far as taking the rocker cover off and brushing some oil in there. A gallon of 20 w50 brought the level up to just below normal on the dipstick. I had no oil pressure gauge so crossed fingers and hoped for the best.

 

With five series rovers on the books, I've got shed loads of spares including a new dizzy and coil which came in a box with other more useful at the time stuff.

 

Couldn't get any spark so swapped over the distributors which cured that problem. I bought a secondhand radiator for this ages ago so put that on and filled with water. It leaked like a colander - great.

 

The lift pump for fuel didn't seem to want to work so I rigged up a gravity feed.

 

A few cranks of the starter later and I had it firing away. Not smooth though and some mega back fires and flames coming out the breather. Turning the dizzy got things running smoother and I think it will be fine. Took some crap video on my phone but I'm struggling to get it off the phone.

 

Great to breath some life into it and I'll crack on now and hopefully get it on the road for the summer.

[Guest Breadvan72]

You are Hero of Landyness!

 

I have been slapping paint on my Series III over the weekend, and wondering whether I can be bothered to glue some rubbery soundproofing tat that I picked up online to the insides of the doors.

[Tetleysmooth]

One of our diesel fitters at work is looking for a series 3 gearbox.

If you know of one, or indeed have a spare one yourself that you want to part with, give me a shout please.

[Guest Breadvan72]

I have a series 3 gearbox available right now.  Come and get it!     The main box is said to work, but there is a reported problem with the high to low switching,   Details of fault unknown.  Make me an offer?

[Tetleysmooth]

Pm received Mr Breadvan72, and replied to - twice. Made a cock up of the first message.

[Tetleysmooth]

I have a series 3 gearbox available right now.  Come and get it!     The main box is said to work, but there is a reported problem with the high to low switching,   Details of fault unknown.  Make me an offer?

 

I have absolutely no idea about Landrovers, and also, this is for a work colleague, so really couldn't make an offer on his behalf.

Any idea of a price? PM me?

[Guest Breadvan72]

I will do some price research and have a think, discounting for the reported fault.  This box was on a 1976 petrol  (no overdrive) and had done about 88,000 miles before it was taken off because of difficulty selecting high and low ratios.

[Tetleysmooth]

Is that synchro or non?

[Guest Breadvan72]

Synchro.

[drum]

Series 3 boxes are synchro.

 

The Hi Lo problem will probably be rusty selector shafts in the transfer box.

 

Easily fixed by taking the tin hats off the front of the transfer box. The shafts come through the casing and can rust through lack of use. Clean up and work them free.

[Guest Breadvan72]

It came as part of the purchase price for my Landy, and I have been umming and ahhing about what to do with it.  I think that selling it on would be good, as the box that is in the Landy now has done fewer miles and seems to work very well by Series Landy standards.  Oops, famous last words.....

 

Prices online are all over the place.  Top end is one from a trader asking £335 for a series 2A box.  Another one asks £64 for a 2A box that is not known to work.  This one is reported by the seller of my Landy to work, subject to the High-Low problem mentioned above, that may be fixable as drum suggests.   I have no reason to doubt what the seller told me, but obviously I can't warrant the condition of the box.

 

In these circs, does opening at £175 seem cheeky?    That means that your mate should offer me £150 and I will say yes, and he can come and collect it.  

[Guest Breadvan72]

Anyone else want to buy this gearbox?    Teteeysmooth's mate says no.  Shite price available for shiter.  I will lob it on the Bay at the weekend if I get around to it, but I am AFEARED of the World o' Mongs that ensues whenever that happens.

[drum]

Frozen drips waiting to thaw and rain on me. Lovely.

 

20141227_134451 by jboath1, on Flickr

 

It's needed for a pheasant shoot tomorrow so spent half an hour messing about trying to start it today.

 

20141227_143316 by jboath1, on Flickr

[drum]

Dragging a mate's broken defender from its resting place.

 

DSC_0122 by jboath1, on Flickr

[drum]

K seal has stopped the 3 from pissing its pants when warm.

 

Monochrome to hide the embarrassing rusty red wateryness of it all.

 

Keeping the home fires burning

 

2015-01-05_04-26-09 by jboath1, on Flickr

[bones96]

i sooooo want a landydont want to go down the defender route as i reckon series landys look much better the few ive seen round here on farms are supposedly on going projects despite having stood for countless years so still looking