Jump to content

Welding wibble


Recommended Posts

Posted

Chaps / Chapesses,

 

I could do with your opinion on stupid previous owner welding tricks.

 

Please observe the below shonky photos:

 

wibble1.jpg

wibble2.jpg

 

This is the inside vertical face of the chassis rail of my series 2 landrover, at the side of the gearbox. The chassis of said vehicle is what's technically known as 'shot to shit', most areas have 3mm plate liberally applied. Here a plate has been put on both top & bottom faces. Whoever did it has put a huge amount of heat into the job which has wibbled the side. It goes in/ out by 1/4 of an inch. (so 1/2 inch between high & low spots).

 

The side is solid (passes screwdriver test), but what is the mot man likely to think? It looks bloody awful.

If I was to try and fix it, what's the best way of doing it? Cut the side out & replace? Hammer it flatish & weld a plate over?

 

There is also this:

corner.jpg

 

Are you allowed to put 90 degree bends in repair plates? This one is again fairly distorted.

 

I don't have the money for a new chassis, and don't really want to sell as is 'cos it would end up being a 'tax exempt ringing kit'.

 

Suggestions welcome!

Posted

I can't see too clearly, but as long as the welding is continuous and not porous it should be ok.

 

Some of the worst welding repairs I have seen have been MOT repairs done at garages.

Posted

MoT man should be happy enough if he can't stick his screwdriver through it. I suspect you'll be blathering it all in underseal when you're finished anyway, so he won't see the fine detail.

 

A 90° bend in a repair section is fine, that won't be a problem.

 

Have you got pics of your Landie? There are a few of us on here that like 'em :mrgreen:

Posted

My understanding it that as long as it is not considered by the tester to greatly affect the strength of the chassis and it is not holed in any way then its fine.

 

For your own piece of mind you may wish to add your own plate so that it is straight and flat and offering additional strength if you feel it is not structurally sound.

Posted

Looks pretty good considering whoever did it was probably trying to weld upside down on a windy drive. Its a good deal easier to make a smart profesional looking weld stood at a nice, well lit workbench than underneath an old vehicle.

 

I'd say the 90 degree bend is better than two seperate plates welded together.

Posted

I'll get a better photo that shows the wibble better when / if I can get the seat box out.

 

This is what it looked like, er,10 years ago when I'd just got it:

milandy.jpg

 

It's been thru landrover centre huddersfield, thus the county stripes and windows.

 

Since then pikeys stole the bull bar (no great loss), I've swapped back to the correct series 2 wings / panel / bonnet. Still got the wrong series 3 bulkhead fitted. Swapped the engine for a better 2 1/4, upgraded the brakes to 109 spec. Repainted in the same battleship depressing gray. Not much to show for 9 years of going to get round to it :(

 

I shouldn't have bought it, but was recovering from my previous one being written off. Turns out this one is less than 10 chassis numbers from the last one, so sort of had to buy it. Plus it had an overdrive and was £500 with a full (bent) mot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...